CS17 #370 Peggy-O

[PAR]

You'll have to wait a while (3 weeks), for the paint to fully cure, but you should be able to compound and buff the brush strokes out. I do this on repairs, when I have the time. A rough cut and fine cut compound does most of the work, then regular buffing. You can also do it by hand, starting with 400 grit and working up through 1500, before pulling out the buffer. Basically you block sand (400, 600, 800, etc.), knocking down the humps of the brush strokes, then buff smooth.

[LennieG]

Final and seventh coat of enamel on and looking pretty good. She won't be a show boat due to fairing step, or lack of, but she is really looks ok and glad I used the enamel and thanks for all the advice here on paint. Going to do some projects while she cures for a couple weeks.....paint masts, rudder, source hardware, tiller, tiller extension, new cradle supports, install hardware and track on mast, paint CB etc.

Any advice on hardware manufacturer (Ronstan, Harkin etc), material or suppliers? Thanks

[PAR]

Ronstan makes good hardware, at much lower pricing then Harkin. RaceLite is a mom and pop USA outfit that makes some stainless stuff. The quality is good, though the engineering is simple, so no ultra light stuff or fancy bearings.

[LennieG]

A friend mentioned garhauer  as top looking stuff priced low but you never hear about it here so I assume he's wrong or it's for a different tribe

[Designer]

Par gave you a good assessment but another point is that no one company has every part that you need or that even if all three do make a similar part, one will be better. If you look at the rigging sheet you will find all three of the above brands are used. I have spent a lot of time trying to find the best balance between cost and functionality. You can easily up spend if you like but if you follow the parts list it will work well at a reasonable cost. Some prefer to spend the extra for cam cleats rather than clam cleats. The CL 211 clam cleat which works well had the annoying habit of re-cleating. They have now come out with a plastic guard that prevents re-cleating.

 

When Harken put ball bearings in their cam cleats, it was a quantum leap over the rest. Ronstan later put ball bearings in their cam cleats which made them about equal but they made their cams reversible. This means that if the teeth get worn and they wont hold the line anymore, you can put the left cam on the right side and vica versa, you have a new cam cleat. Harken eye straps are just plain better.

 

 

 

Garhauer makes some really good gear at a better cost than most but it is all big boat stuff and way over sized for your boat.

[LennieG]

I just pulled out my original file folder and see that you supply many of these Graham which I didn't know or didn't remember....I will give you an order shortly....not looking to reinvent the wheel! Thanks

[PAR]

Agreed Graham, I'm specing up a small dayboat now and have 4 different vendors to supply all the hardware, which each having some, but not all of the various pieces needed. For example I don't think Garhauer has a gooseneck fitting.

[LennieG]

Glad to be back at projects involving cutting wood and building things......

[LennieG]

Glad to be back at projects involving cutting wood and building things......

[LennieG]

Getting the small projects done before the flip. These are the things that are the head scratchers for me (rudder, like the CB trunk had been, or the seat hatch covers). Within a day or so of finishing them up and moving onto the masts and the second flip.

[LennieG]

Te rudder is looking pretty good.....this photo really distorts it.

[LennieG]

Just about finished rudder and tiller last week.....

 

assembled mast tubes today....bottom and second one tight but easy to pound in wet no problem.

second and third loose but filled with wet tape which got pushed out mostly...hoping it cures with good bond and tape and goo on outside will firm up enough. Will need to add wood sections on top.

[LennieG]

Second and hopefully final flip today.....picking up steam. Re did cradle supports which had mostly fallen apart. To future builders. I would recommend you use good solid1/2 " or  3/4" ply right up front instead of  the kit crate box MDF (which I have decided when cutting stands for Much Dust Flying). Hoping to finish by the October Mess-about and thinking of a launch then. This is a ball

[LennieG]

Correction: the crate wasn't MDF ...the MDF was from attempted router jig. The crate was some kind of particle board and fine for its purpose but recommendation stands: Good plywood or MDF( if breathing isn't a priority. )

[LennieG]

Flipped and leveled today. Had the help of friends and local storage room guys and appreciated their help.

boat is looking good!

[mattp]

Looks like your on a roll, Lennie. Keep it up!

[Miyot]

Looks like your on a roll, Lennie. Keep it up!

Good one mattp.  Ok LennieG, stop looking at it and get back to work.

[LennieG]

Spent last four days looking at boat. 

No, only kidding....been doing the small jobs that take time: mast, mast step prep, re-do of hatch seat covers, etc.

Lesson learned for future builders: the first mast tube I did a couple days ago had no prep on mast. It took literally 45 minutes for me and another guy to pull it off the mast. I didn't think it was coming off frankly but with pulling, twisting, clamping, and grunting we finally got it off. Actually the plastic stayed on mast and we were pulling the tube off the plastic. Second one today I sanded mast, wiped it with acetone and put a small amount of talc on the mast. As I was leaving shop I gave a pull to plastic and it was coming right off mast, so only way to go, unless we have trouble getting plastic off tube. Thanks in part to Rogue Paddler blog

[LennieG]

Been working on the small stuff for past month and making good progress with the hours I have had available, and the willingness to work in 95 and humid degrees. Will post pics soon when I have some actual noticeable change.

i am trying to get good or at east fair at fairing while doing the cockpit so, unlike the hull, it looks pretty and professional. If you haven't read Paul's Tips  (PAR) you really should....they are excellent! So I am practicing fairing under the seats where it won't be seen.

Question: 

i will be using an exterior latex on cabin as per advice here. Can one add a coat of latex to see what you've got, fair and sand, then add another coat without removing the first coat? Another words can you add epoxy/ talc/ fairing powder over latex?

thanks

[PAR]

No you can't fair over paint, you have to take it down to the epoxy coating. This said, you can smooth the paint to refine the fairing, using fine and very fine grits on a long board.