Core Sound 17 #159 Refurbishment

[Reacher]

Don, attached are parts of Core Sound 20 plans showing the mainmast tabernacle and a view of the deck cutout to accommodate the rotation of the mast. The measurements would have to be scaled back for the CS17.

 

As Paul pointed out the foot of the mast in the tabernacle is quite a bit higher than the mast step for a conventional set up. Perhaps that allows the main mast to be raised enough so that the bottom of the sail track clears the tabernacle. The plan shows that a short back wall behind the mast and a floor at the foot of the tabernacle are needed to keep water out of the boat.

 

the second picture shows the deck view of the trapezoidal cutout needed to allow the foot of the mast to swing. For reference, the forward edge of the hatch is also shown. I hope this helps.

[Reacher]

Inset of the tabernacle.

[Paul356]

Pretty interesting.

[Steve W]

That looks pretty similar to my CS20.3. Having a tabernacle on both main and mizzen is fantastic. I can put each  masts up with one hand. 

[Chick Ludwig]

I had tabernacles on both main and mizzen (Or is it fore and main?) of Summer Breeze.

[Reacher]

The plans I have for CS20.1 do not show a mizzen mast tabernacle. I did not install a tabernacle for the main mast.

 

In practice the main mast is the easier one to step because the foot of the mast does not have to be raised above the deck and I can stand in a position behind the mast to easily support the rake of the mast. The foot of the mizzen mast has to be raised up and over the side deck and up to the level of of the center thwart. That's more unwieldy. 

 

As I get older I think about adding tabernacles with remote control hydraulics to tilt the masts into position.

[Paul356]

Sort of holding a ruler up to the Mk I plans, it might be do-able, but it looks really tight using the CS 20 plans.  If a 16.25" bury is needed on the mainmast as shown, and building and installing the tabernacle as shown, that would put the lower end of the pivoting mainmast right at the peak of the bow.  Would it pivot through there or not?  Also, there would not be any room for a breast hook as shown on the CS20 plan, in my quick estimate, so there might be a reinforcement issue. 

 

I agree with Reacher that putting up the main mast is the easier of the two, since I put a little cup in the forward edge of the step tube and all I have to do is slide the main mast forward and walk it up.  Getting it out is a different project, tho. 

 

Hydraulic lifts! Ha! That would be something.

[Don Silsbe]

My underlying intention is to make this boat into my “Old Man’s Boat”.  I’m 75 now, and I realize that stepping those masts is going to get more and more difficult.  Retrofitting tabernacles onto a CS17 would solve that problem.  My original plan was to move to an Amanda.  Its small spars would be easy to handle.  But this 17 is so spacious.  I’d love to make this work.

[Reacher]

Paul, am I right in assuming that your CS17.1 plans did not include an option for a main mast tabernacle? Maybe a CS17.3 builder can provide a plan of the tabernacle setup in that model. I think between scaling down the CS20.1 plans and adapting the 17.3 plans Don could create a workable refit.

 

As far as construction goes it looks very doable. You would have good access between the deck opening and the deck hatch to install the supporting frames, add the well and fit the tabernacle. Trim the foot of the mast as necessary. Drill the drain hole.

[Don Silsbe]

I bought the boat used, and no plans came with it.  I’m hoping I can buy specific sheets of plans from B&B.

[Don Silsbe]

@Reacher— I still have the plans for Avocet, from when I worked on her last year.  There is a fine drawing in there of the forward tabernacle. But I know that the mark 3 has a different sheer line (because of the cabin), so the dimensions won’t work on the mark 1.

[Paul356]

Correct, no plans in the Mark I set for a tabernacle.  It looks like the heel of the mast in the Mk III calls for a 17"+ swing and allows for a breast hook.  I think that would require moving the main mast aft in the Mk I.  Who knows if that would work.  I remember asking Graham 'way back if I could convert my Mk I to a Mk III while building.  He noted the hull shapes, etc., where quite a bit different.  It looks to me like the Mk III is quite a bit deeper or steeper in cross section up front.  I guess I'd still look for an ok or plans from Graham or Alan.

[Don Silsbe]

@Paul356— Yeah, I agree.  I need an OK from those guys first.  But my buddy Ted (aka PadrePoint) has one on his 15, so what the hey?  (That’s me at the helm.)

[Mike Vacanti]

The latest CS 20 Mk I plans have the details for a main mast tabernacle, I assume the CS 17 Mk I plans are the same. 

[Don Silsbe]

I’m still waiting on a response from Alan on my request for a single sheet for the 17 mk1 tabernacle.  Granted, it has been the holidays, and I’m not going to work on this for several months.  But it is fun discussing it with all of you.

[Captain Tim]

Has anyone done a wellness check on Graham or Alan ? I have never known them to take so long to help us out

[Don Silsbe]

Graham is fine.  Not sure on Alan yet.

[Don Silsbe]

Alan is fine.  Just very busy.

[Don Silsbe]

I have been neglecting this boat, to complete the trimaran build.  But I did splurge, and ordered some lettering for her name.  All this will change, when she gets painted navy and white.  But for now…

[Andy B]

Following up on an old post of Don's:

 

"Seals should be unnecessary in a capsize situation.  But AndyB’s lazarette filled up with water while trailering it in the rain from Colorado to Michigan.  The lazarette was full to the brim. "

 

On my topic of my boat re-furbish you can see that I replaced the seals.  That fixed the lazarrette, but unfortunately not the side hatches, which I discovered took on water when I put the boat away in the fall (what is it with me and trailering in the rain???).  Anyway, I think this problem is not with the gasket that tightens up the lid, but I think with the contact point between the plastic rim and the wood seat.  I think I will need to remove the entire hatch lid and bed it with butyl tape under it.