Captain Tim

Three thin coats of epoxy might be less epoxy than what you would need to wet out the cloth. Three coats of epoxy would have a better chance of full coverage with no voids

I think there will be a time you are happy with the extra push. Storm coming or strong head wind for example. Something else I highly recommend is use only nonethanol fuel. You will not burn enough fuel in a season to worry about the added cost and you will actually save money because you won't have to clean the carburetor when fuel sits in the tank for a while.

What amazes me is that you didn't have three-foot itis and build the CS20.

When figuring out the right pitch and diameter of a prop it should allow the motor to reach its rated RPMs for rated HP with a load on (pushing your boat with a normal load on it). If the motor is freewheeling because the prop is not biting the water enough (too small of a prop) you could do damage to the motor. You would be better off running at a slower RPM most of the time for the speed you like and run it up to high RPMs once in a while to "blow it out". Most small outboards come with the right size prop.

A heat gun with a scraper can help with stripping old finish and messed up epoxy

Paul I still can't see the pictures

I have the Suzuki 2.5 short shaft so the power head should be the same as a 2.5 long shaft. I have a Spindrift 11', and the motor sits on the transom. I have to take the rudder off to put the motor on. The pictures were taking while motor was on motor stand. The measurements were for you to know how much space the motor would take up if it is lower than the transom.

What I would be most concerned about using the Duckworks bracket is putting the motor on and off while the boat is in the water. 7" away from the transom may be a bit of a reach on a tippy boat.

JeffM The space from the back of the bracket to the back of the transom needed for the operating position (down) is 6 1/2 inches. The space needed for the up position is 14 1/2 inches. The gas cover vent that sticks out a bit is where I measured to. Both those measurements would give you about 1/4 inch +/- play.

JeffM is this what you have? 

JeffM If the snow we are getting tonight doesn't pile up too high, I will be able to measure my motor for you tomorrow. Seems like you want to know how far forward the motor travels towards the boat as it tilts. I'm pretty sure somewhere on this forum there is discussion about which shaft length to get.

The Laser radial is just about the same size as the Spindrift 11' sail. I think rolling the Laser sail while underway would be a trick. I think you could work out a reef by cutting the sleeve similar to the Spindrift sail. You could open the head to raise and lower the Laser sail with a halyard. The single line reefing works.

You should check out Bacon Sails. They have a lot to choose from. Bacon Sails and Marine Supply 116 Legion Ave, Annapolis MD 21401 410-263-4880

Geekygrappler this video is not exactly what Don Silsbe described but it shows the use of the plastic as a release film. It looks like in the third of the three picture you posted there is a second crack near the block of wood. Is that the block that should be through bolted at the end of the initial 8 inches of tape at the bow? I don't see a bolt, and I think it helps a lot in the bending in and around that area. The patch will be like a butt joint, and it will be very strong if done well. Probably should not wait too long after the repair before you try and bend that area. The patch will get stiffer the longer it sets

Don I found the second video but all it shows is how to take the aid apart. Did not see anywhere you actually rising the mast. Would also like to see how it helps lowering the mast. Thanks