Core Sound 17 #159 Refurbishment

[Jonathan M. Cohn]

I assume 'Bzzzzzzzzzzzz" referred to sanding? Do you sand all the paint off before starting the new paint? Will you use a primer? How do you avoid removing any of the glass layers? I'd love to see some pictures of the repainting process.

[Hirilonde]

I also carry a paddle. It fits into brackets mounted on the port side of the centerboard trunk. For quick maneuvers/ getting away from the dock, it is easier than the oars.

[Steve W]

FWIW, On Skeena I carry an adjustable length SUP paddle. It allows me to reach the water from standing or kneeling. It also works well to fend from docks when I'm by myself. 

[Don Silsbe]

@Jonathan M. Cohn-- Yes, "bzzz" signifies that I will be a sanding monkey for some time to come.  The entire boat needs to be sanded down, at least into the primer.  The trick will be to know when to stop, and not violate the epoxy layers.  Some boats are sheathed in fiberglass, others are only glassed at the seams.  That's a personal choice.  Fiberglass adds strength and durability, but also weight.  All of B&B's boats do not need the additional strength of sheathing.  Some sheath the entire outside, others do not.  All do (or should) give the wood three coats of epoxy, inside and out.  This is the important thing.  I'm renovating another's builder's work.  I'm not sure at this point if he sheathed the exterior or not.  I will definitely chronicle my process here.  The feedback I get from fellow builders is very important to me.  Sometimes, I even heed their advice!  LOL

 

[Don Silsbe]

@Steve W-- That's an interesting idea!  I might just use that idea.  I might even fashion a boat hook into the other end.  Who knows?

[Captain Tim]

Sometimes a heat gun and a sharp scrapper saves a lot of time and sandpaper.

 

[Andy B]

@Don Silsbe Don, I'm curious why you intend to sand all the way to the primer.  Assuming the current paint is still adhering, why not just smooth it out and go from there?

[Don Silsbe]

The green is copper bottom paint.  If I were overpainting with that, I’d just concentrate on my repairs to the keel.  But I want a slick bottom.  I suspect my two-part poly primer will not adhere as well to it.  I only want to do this once!
 I’ve started sanding.  My new half sheet sander is dynamite, when loaded with 40 grit!  I’m touching up with 60 grit in the ROS.  My mantra is “Make the green go away!”

[Reacher]

Good progress Don. 
 

An old woodworker told me that if you have to make more than 10 back and forth passes with a sander you are using the wrong grit or the wrong tool.

I think about that when I find myself pressing down on the ROS. It looks like you found the right tool and the right grit to start the job with the half sheet sander and 40 grit.

[Don Silsbe]

Getting back to the discussion about rowing.  I don’t i tend to do much of this, as my Suzuki works great, when I have it aboard.  But there are those other times.  I just watched a video of a man ( William Highsmith) cruising in Florida in his CS 17.1.  He has a set of oarlocks positioned just forward of the mizzen.  What do y’all think about this arrangement?

[Hirilonde]

Where do you sit? Which way are you facing?

[PadrePoint]

I put a second pair of oarlocks into my CS15 such that I can sit on the forward thwart to row. I haven’t done that much, just enough to let me know it was a reasonable thing to do. 

[Hirilonde]

Just now, PadrePoint said:

I put a second pair of oarlocks into my CS15 such that I can sit on the forward thwart to row. I haven’t done that much, just enough to let me know it was a reasonable thing to do. 

I toyed with that idea.  I think the main 2 issues are that rowing with the sails up is desirable in no wind, which is the only time I row anyway.  And the rowlocks need to be out of the way for sitting on the side deck and/or hiking when needed.

[Reacher]

In my experience rowing boats that were not built primarily for rowing (Core Sounds e.g.) it's best to have weight forward for performance.  A seat on the centerboard trunk would be good. You want to get a square transom out of the water as much as possible. 

 

A squatting transom is bad for any boat performance,  but it is especially so when using muscle power.

[Hirilonde]

Rowing is a lot like sailing in light winds, it is better to go bow down and reduce wetted surface.  I find that my transom is still above water if I am solo and rowing aft of the mizzen.

[Don Silsbe]

I just found this in Alan’s tour of Southbound.  I think this is my answer on oarlock location.

[Paul356]

So you sit on the centerboard trunk then, I guess?

[Don Silsbe]

Apparently.  If the throwable cushion isn’t sufficient, I’ll make a removable seat.  I hope not to row too much, anyway.  I’ve got a Suzuki 2.5, and I don’t plan on doing the EC. 

[Don Silsbe]

She’s finally right-side up again.  Time to sand down all that peeling paint.

[Don Silsbe]

It is always the darkest before dawn.  So they say.  This is the first time I’ve ever taken a Sawzall to a boat.  It is a good thing.  She’ll end up with fully sealing seat tanks, when I’m through.

 

The foredeck had the telltale crack between panels.  A little glue and fiberglass wi make that go away.