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Reacher

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Reacher last won the day on May 16

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  1. Kevin, it is ok to drill holes in the sprit. I used a hole just big enough for a 3/16 line. Tied a knot on the topside so it couldn’t pull through the hole and tied the block to the free end on the bottom side of the sprit. You can mount all sorts of hardware on the sprits. Reefing blocks and cleats in particular. Congratulations on your purchase, I’m sure you will enjoy it. Just remember the designer’s main rule: Always keep the mainsheet at hand so it can be quickly released in strong gust. Don’t cleat it and forget it. The mizzen sheet is an afterthought.
  2. The sheet blocks get attached to the end of the sprit. The most basic way is a short line, up to 6”, hanging down from the sprit and the block snaps into a loop on the end of that short line. If the sprits have a hole near the end my guess is that the hole is the attachment point for the short line. Other sailors install eyelets near the end of the sprit and snap the block to the eyelet.
  3. Thanks for the invitation. I may be able to drive over if schedules work out.
  4. For a 22’ boat I used hollowback (half oval) stainless steel pre drilled. I bedded it in 3M 5200. Twenty years and it is in great condition, no bending or deflection even where it rides on the front keel roller. TACO marine product. I purchased through Jamestown, but you might get it locally through West Marine or other. Shipping costs will affect your length/source choices. I have used narrow brass stem bands, solid and oval back, on canoe stems. They look nice but don’t have the strength of the stainless steel I used on the bigger boat. On a tangent, I just completed a wood strip kayak. I used 1” kevlar band for the stems and for the outside hull-deck joint. Too soon to give an assessment, but it is definitely tough.
  5. The problem is corrected. Thanks to the site admin if they fixed it.
  6. I can’t access any postings on bandb forum. I get a page that says ex145 error somethings gone wrong please try again later. Signed out, signed in, no change. Did a web search on the error code and it sounds like an administrator problem, maybe a data base crash.
  7. Paul, Good video. The boat has little heel, the sails are full, you are not fighting the gusts or luffing up, a steady hand on the tiller, both crew securely in the boat and charging along. Well done.
  8. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://messing-about.com/forums/topic/11334-roller-trough-for-a-cs203-trailer/&ved=2ahUKEwi4rs_uk8H2AhXWkWoFHTRMDLcQFnoECAMQAQ&usg=AOvVaw2_H3ykn5fAJ01CmFHd-YRk I'm bad at the search function but this link should get you to Pete McCrary 's thread on rollers.
  9. Thanks for posting this update.
  10. A roster shows the following boats. Blackbeard CS17 Mk1 Breezerider CS17 Mk3 Pink Dog CS17 Mk1 Tosa CS17 Mk1
  11. it looks like a handful of Core Sounds are entered in the race starting tomorrow March 5, 2022. Good luck to all of them. I hope that someone can post updates as has been done in the past. Thanks.
  12. I installed permanent gas tanks on a boat I built 23 years ago. They are plastic tanks (polyethylene?) and are chocked in place with hold down brackets. I can disassemble some structure to remove the tanks but it has never been necessary. I think it is important that you have an inspection cap or port so you can access the fill hose connection, the fuel line connection, the gauge sending unit and any grounding wire that might run from the tank to the deck plate. I also think it is good to be able to access the fill hose connection to the deck plate.
  13. Soft shackles are great. Silsbe, what knot did you use to complete the loop? The diamond knots are tricky, but the line you are using is tough to properly cinch. Thanks.
  14. To each their own, and I can't find fault with Silsbe's work, but to me the test is whether the boat is to be varnished. Then you need perfection without fairing. When painting you can fill and fair, high build prime and fair, and sand it to your heart's content. To the original poster of this thread I would say that if scarfing the plywood is a roadblock, you won't regret going with a butt splice joint. I thought I had a good eye and touch for sanding. Then a car restorer showed me the trick of putting a thin cotton cloth over my fingertips when checking for imperfections. It will send you back for another round of perfection.
  15. I've scarfed many panels together. Getting the proper bevel isn't difficult especially if you are doing multiple stacked sheets at the same time. Properly aligning and gluing the feather edges without getting a slight thin or thick joint is finicky. They can require just as much fairing as a butt joint. Last year I made a sailing canoe and the plans called for butt splices with fiberglass reinforcement. That is the only method I would use going forward.
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