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Reacher

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Reacher last won the day on December 2 2019

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About Reacher

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  1. Steve, don’t beat yourself up over the capsize. You aren’t the only one who regrets some maneuver or misstep. I’ve mixed up red and green bouys and barely caught the mistake in time. I headed out into a busy shipping channel without remembering to turn on the fuel valve and had to scramble a few minutes later when the engine quit. I took a gamble on a weak anchor set when a storm came through at night and I had to let the anchor go. (I was able to retrieve it the next day.) I could go on. Good job recovering from the capsize and thanks for writing it up so we all can learn something.
  2. Thrillsbe, you are right, the video is a nice winter treat for those of us who practice winter storage. This whole thread has been good for winter reading and dreaming. You have me thinking about something more weatherly than a tarp and mosquito net. After seeing your tent set up I got out my CS 20 plans and a scale. I have just enough space between the transom and the mizzen mast for the tent. How are you supporting the filler boards between the seats? Did you buy the Kelty Late Start 1?
  3. Paul, I really like the way you’ve outfitted your boat, and especially admire how you use it. Thrillsbe, you might consider a screen “bug bivy” along with a tarp to keep the rain and the sun off. Make a board for one side of the cockpit and no need to move the mizzen mast. I camped under a tarp on my CS 20 and liked how it worked.
  4. I used foam/foil soundproofing material available through West Marine or Defender or similar marine stores. The material is 1.5 or 2 inches thick. My installation was around the engine on an I/O, so totally enclosed. The noise reduction was significant and worthwhile, but not as quiet as I hoped. My boat is also made of plywood, so the whole thing is a sound board. The best place to ride is in the bow where the dash and windshield block the sound. The foam in soundproofing is open cell. It absorbs sound, but also water. I don’t know how effective it is when wet. The foa
  5. A few years ago I shared shop space with a fellow building aScamp from a kit. He started the boat at a Scamp Camp, which is common. After a couple of years he was trying to finish it. Paul is right in that it is a complicated build compared to a CS15. The builder told me there are a lot of half done Scamps out there that never progressed beyond the Scamp Camp stage. I can’t comment on Scamp sailing characteristics. But I would strongly suggest that a potential builder should see one, talk to the builder, sail one, and look at the reality of using the boat. In my opinion the CS15 is
  6. Thanks for showing us your trip. It is inspiring to see the boats in action. Going sail camping on Rainy Lake in September is ambitious. And, it looks like you made some good tacks in the channel. Well done.
  7. Nothing has broken on my CS20 Mk 1. Things that I have stressed the most are the masts and the mizzenmast sprit and rigging. The masts were stressed when sailing with full roach sails, unreefed, in 20 knot winds with four adults aboard to hold down the weather side. Lots of bend to the aluminum masts. The mizzen when jibing. The mainsail jibes first and gently because it is shielded by the mizzen. In strong winds the mizzen will really pop across if not sheeted in, something I don’t always do. Again, no damage. An example of operator error. I tie the centerb
  8. Regarding paint, I would skip the Rustoleum marine paint. I tried it. It is inexpensive, fairly tough, but inferior in finish. Consider Interlux Brightside one part polyurethane along with its primer. Sand the primer well and you will be rewarded.
  9. https://www.classglobe580.com A nice intro and graphic by Alan.
  10. The masking tape method looks interesting and I might give it a try sometime. I marked the waterline on a friend’s CS 17 using a laser level and it worked out well. The boat was blocked fore and aft so that the level registered to the design waterline marks on the bow and stern as taken from the plans. Then the boat was leveled side to side. The laser line was traced onto the boat. Then the laser level was raised 2.5 inches and the upper line was traced. The “as painted” line was wider at the transom and noticeably wider at the bow due to the slant of of the hull at those points. I
  11. I haven't been in a windy anchorage with my Core Sound. A few times nudged up to shore, at docks, and in a quiet cove. If swinging was a problem I would try a stern anchor, take a line to shore, or raise enough of the mizzen to stabilize the boat. When observing keel boats at anchor I've seen some that fight it and some that lie head to wind.
  12. Anders, I have used a makeshift tent that works. I have a tarp that ties to the main mast and the mizzenmast mast. The edges of the tarp tie to eyelets along the rails. Then I open a golf umbrella under the center of the tarp to provide structure and headroom and to shed rain. The umbrella is 6ft in diameter. I also have a CS 20. There is ample room under the tarp for sleeping using a filler board between the centerboard trunk and the starboard seat. Sometime I might try a second tarp between the transom and the mizzenmast, with another golf umbrella underneath. I also thou
  13. According to the article the boat was upright when the CG arrived. It didn't capsize until hit with downwash from the helicopter. Like everyone else, I send my condolences to the family.
  14. https://www.menards.com/main/tools/hand-tools/staplers-staples-rivet-tools/tool-shop-long-handle-rivet-tool/80570/p-1444421792480-c-9164.htm A long handled rivet tool similar to this worked for me when installing stainless steel rivets in the sail track.
  15. Regarding the knee separating from the transom. I had an old Thompson 15 lapstrake outboard with a 30 hp motor that had the same condition. That knee was only held by screws, no epoxy. I relocated the failing screw into good wood, used thickened epoxy in the joint, and everything was still holding together when I sold the boat 5 years later. My inclination would be do a similar fix on your boat. Run the saw blade through only where the joint has separated to clean up the surfaces. Then shim/epoxy, or just epoxy, and get a good screw in place. I would leave the rest of the knee untouched becau
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