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Reacher last won the day on June 6

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About Reacher

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  1. Thanks for documenting the design and the test. The angle away from the transom adds so much to the ease of use.
  2. Nick, thanks for documenting the build. And for choosing the CS 20 mk1. I obtained the partially completed hull of #80 three years ago and finished it. It was the boat I wanted since seeing a CS 17 the year before and has proven to be a great choice for daysailing and short cruises. And it is fun to run past much larger keelboats when the wind is up. I like your modification of the forward area. I added cargo netting under the foredeck hatch so I can toss in light gear without having it fall to the bottom out of reach. I attached a ladder similar to yours. It has worked well enough. If you can devise a way to have the bottom angle out from the boat it would be easier to use. Please keep posting pictures.
  3. That’s a great association with the boats we love. Thanks. I would like to see the hulls.
  4. Pete, Thanks for the write up on a challenging situation. Glad you made it home safely. In hindsight, what could you have done differently aside from watching the forecast more closely? Could you have remained at anchor? Run the boat ashore?
  5. Paul, Thanks for the excellent write-up of your experience. I really appreciate the “lessons learned “ account. I think the best lesson from your capsize is to know how valuable a competent crew member can be. Your analysis leaves me with the realization that I may not be able to recover my CS-20 in the event of a capsize. I guess it is time to make a practice capsize and see what happens. My best option may be to use a mast float. Other measures I will prepare are attaching lines amidship to help with righting leverage, sealing the deck hatch so it is water tight, adding hold down points to lash equipment aboard. My boat doesn’t have seat hatches, just watertight inspection covers, so I’m happy with that. Another avenue of preparation is to think about what to do if you can’t recover the boat. How to contact help, how to avoid hypothermia and so forth. What I hate to think about is changing one’s sailing style. Do you become more conservative, not hike out, stay in on windy days, hug the shoreline, go with maximum reefing? Buy a keelboat? Not attractive options. I hope to see you back on Lake Michigan this summer. It’s been a long winter, but sailing season starts tonight with Wednesday night races.
  6. I might think about lifting the dinghy (half) over the lowest point of the coaming then bringing it forward on its side along the seat to get it in position. Maybe even over the transom. I’m suggesting this without knowing the layout of any obstacles such as trailer fenders, etc. It’s usually easier to move something when you get it at your own level.
  7. Charlie, thanks for the clear pictures and the write up. Good to see you posting again. I camped for a couple of nights at Magnolia Beach in March on my way from Farley Boat Works. Great spot.
  8. When I was doing the calculations in the first post I was thinking that the destination was directly downwind. But I realized that it is more likely that a downwind mark might be 20 or 30 degrees off of dead downwind. In those situations the temptation might be to sail directly to the mark. But, if a 10-20 degree course deviation (sailing 40 degrees off of dead downwind rather than 10-20 degrees) adds only 2-6% to the length of the leg, it might be well worth it to sail the higher course if boat speed rises accordingly. So important to find the sweet spot for boat speed. Pete, my favorite ice boat is the Class A stern streerer aptly named The Menace.
  9. Pete, Alex, Brad, thanks for the polar plots. When a sailing friend saw my page of calculations he said, "there's charts for that." I'm thinking that the CS-20 polar plot is like the J-105, especially when the wind is up. The best downwind tactic is to sail 135 to 140 degrees off the wind in lighter air and then sail deeper off the wind as wind speed picks up to 20 kts. Or, on a typical day, sail 40 degrees off of dead downwind, then head more downwind in the puffs. Pete, my experience in ice boating is that you can't really go downwind, and you think you can't pull the sheet in hard enough going upwind. Alex, that is a very interesting link. Good find. Brad, good choice to show the difference between the Hunter (beam reach is fastest) and the broad reaching J-105.
  10. This thread is an offshoot of the Velocity Made Good (VMG) discussion in the Everglades Challenge 2019 thread. I always want to reach downwind rather than running wing and wing. But, I never really know how much faster I have to reach to have a better vmg. I thought the vmg function on a GPS would give the answer but it doesn't. Feel free to correct my trig calculations, it's been awhile. Course deviation of 10 degrees gives a 2% longer course. 20 degrees gives a 6% longer course. 30 degrees gives a 15% longer course. 40 degrees gives a 31% longer course. 45 degrees gives a 41% longer course. If you can do 5 kts straight down wind, then: 10 degrees off is 5.1 knots to stay even 20 degrees off is 5.3 30 degrees off is 5.8 40 degrees off is 6.6 45 degrees off is 7.1 kts. Once the ice melts I will check this out.
  11. I've always been disappointed in vmg readings on instruments I've used. Maybe I need better equipment. For instance, when tacking to a mark, on the second last leg (tacking to the lay line), vmg gradually diminishes until it reaches 0 at the lay line. Then you tack to sail directly to the mark and the vmg jumps to boat speed and stays there until you reach the mark. In reality your progress to the mark was constant over both legs. Does anyone have a GPS that will give the constant reading? When gibing downwind compared to running wing-and-wing, the instrument will usually say that vmg drops with gibing. But, as in the example of tacking above, the vmg bonus reading comes on the last leg. On legs prior to the last one the vmg will diminish as you go along.
  12. Southern Skimmer, how do you rate the wishbone sprits?
  13. Scott, I'd say try the plastic wood filler if it gives the color you want. Just let it fully dry before coating it with epoxy. I don't like using a filler with cabosil for spots like screw heads because it is harder than the surrounding surface and therefore doesn't sand the same. Some epoxies mixed with wood flour shrink as they cure and the next season you will see dimples on the surface. And, as you noted, epoxy will darken the wood flour.
  14. Dawn and Paul, hope you can repost the build pictures that were deleted!
  15. Acreew, You probably saw this post re lead tip for the centerboard: http://sailnaway.blogspot.com/2014/04/a-little-side-project.html. Thanks to Alan for doing it. The weight is about 18 lbs. I can see that it's not enough for ballast. Like you, I would like to know how much lead would be required. I have used a centerboard with 15 lbs of lead to keep the board down. Raising it is not an issue because the flotation of the centerboard makes the lead surprisingly light when it's in the water. The ballasted centerboard still needs a hold down to keep it from slamming back into the trunk in case of capsize. If you need to shape the lead casting so it's fair with the centerboard, I found a router with a carbide bit was effective.
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