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Reacher

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Reacher last won the day on February 6

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  1. When I trailer on the highway I remove the rudder and insert a mast crutch that is outfitted with pintles. The crutch has a back plate on it so the masts can’t slide backward. I also hook the downhauls over the main and mizzen crutches and snug them down and keep the masts from lifting the crutches up in the wind, which they want to do.
  2. I searched for info a few years ago and never found a study, only a lot of anecdotal information. The stories are positive. People are pleased with the look. West System, which does many technical studies and tests, does not provide an analysis that I could find. It markets graphite powder as a cosmetic filler for low friction and scuff resistance, some uv protection, no anti fouling properties. An alternative to paint. i assume that scuff resistance is at the low end of abrasion resistance.
  3. Paul, am I right in assuming that your CS17.1 plans did not include an option for a main mast tabernacle? Maybe a CS17.3 builder can provide a plan of the tabernacle setup in that model. I think between scaling down the CS20.1 plans and adapting the 17.3 plans Don could create a workable refit. As far as construction goes it looks very doable. You would have good access between the deck opening and the deck hatch to install the supporting frames, add the well and fit the tabernacle. Trim the foot of the mast as necessary. Drill the drain hole.
  4. The plans I have for CS20.1 do not show a mizzen mast tabernacle. I did not install a tabernacle for the main mast. In practice the main mast is the easier one to step because the foot of the mast does not have to be raised above the deck and I can stand in a position behind the mast to easily support the rake of the mast. The foot of the mizzen mast has to be raised up and over the side deck and up to the level of of the center thwart. That's more unwieldy. As I get older I think about adding tabernacles with remote control hydraulics to tilt the masts into position.
  5. Don, attached are parts of Core Sound 20 plans showing the mainmast tabernacle and a view of the deck cutout to accommodate the rotation of the mast. The measurements would have to be scaled back for the CS17. As Paul pointed out the foot of the mast in the tabernacle is quite a bit higher than the mast step for a conventional set up. Perhaps that allows the main mast to be raised enough so that the bottom of the sail track clears the tabernacle. The plan shows that a short back wall behind the mast and a floor at the foot of the tabernacle are needed to keep water out of the boat. the second picture shows the deck view of the trapezoidal cutout needed to allow the foot of the mast to swing. For reference, the forward edge of the hatch is also shown. I hope this helps.
  6. Beautiful job! I've always loved the Wayfarer. Given the restrictions on building a new one you took the best route with a complete rebuild. Old question: If, over time, you gradually replace every piece of a ship, is it still the same ship?
  7. This might be heresy to some people, but I have had good results with Bondo. I was tired of the expense, cure time, and sanding effort required with epoxy fillers. I used Bondo on a motorboat hull 25 years ago and it’s worked fine. Multiple trips at 30 mph through waves on Lake Superior included. I’ve used it ever since. Attached is a photo of a hull faired with Bondo.
  8. Amos, it might be the other way around. Mr Silsbe is the admitted boat building addict. How did he persuade the owner to let him build it?
  9. I was at Farley Boat Works as a volunteer boatbuilder when this Core Sound 17 was built. The skill, attention to detail, and commitment to a high quality build were evident every day. The lead builder, Travis's father, has a background as a professional woodworker. This boat is a flagship example of a CS17.
  10. Bosch cordless jigsaw then a block plane.
  11. Musicman, I’m a long way away it terms of meeting up with you. My suggestion is to rig the boat on the trailer, hoisting the sails, getting the sheets, downhauls, and cboard lines in order. Rig the lines for the snotters (you might want to do that loosely before you raise the sails, and even go through the reefing process. There are a lot of lines to become familiar with and I’ve done it in the driveway a few times. Things can get tangled in unforeseen ways. Good luck, and take Alan up on his FaceTime offer—you can do a walk around with everything up.
  12. Oh, another thing about outboards. I like to be able to lock the motor in a forward position and set the throttle speed so that I can steer with the boat tiller. To stand up and see over the top of doused sails while maneuvering at a dock or marina. Some twist grips don't allow this.
  13. We were sailing on Green Bay, Lake Michigan. Its a good sailing area but you don't see many small boats/centerboarders. In a couple of resort areas on the east side of the bay there are sailing clubs using Flying Scots and even Optimist prams. The picture was taken near Menominee, Michigan. The outboard is a 1985 Suzuki 2hp 2 cycle. Lightweight, one pull starting, and strong enough to go in and out of marinas. It doesn’t shift, so starting it and getting off the dock solo takes some planning. It is a 15" short shaft, which is ok except I don't have my transom cutout deep enough. Keeping weight aft is important. It has served me well all these years. If I were to get another motor I'd get one that shifted, 3-5 hp, and a bracket at the proper height.
  14. Sorry the text was lost when I posted the image. I always like to see pics of B&B boats in use so I thought I would add a shot of mine from last weekend. Maybe someone who is more site savvy could start a library.
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