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Reacher

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About Reacher

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  1. I might think about lifting the dinghy (half) over the lowest point of the coaming then bringing it forward on its side along the seat to get it in position. Maybe even over the transom. I’m suggesting this without knowing the layout of any obstacles such as trailer fenders, etc. It’s usually easier to move something when you get it at your own level.
  2. Charlie, thanks for the clear pictures and the write up. Good to see you posting again. I camped for a couple of nights at Magnolia Beach in March on my way from Farley Boat Works. Great spot.
  3. When I was doing the calculations in the first post I was thinking that the destination was directly downwind. But I realized that it is more likely that a downwind mark might be 20 or 30 degrees off of dead downwind. In those situations the temptation might be to sail directly to the mark. But, if a 10-20 degree course deviation (sailing 40 degrees off of dead downwind rather than 10-20 degrees) adds only 2-6% to the length of the leg, it might be well worth it to sail the higher course if boat speed rises accordingly. So important to find the sweet spot for boat speed. Pete, my favorite ice boat is the Class A stern streerer aptly named The Menace.
  4. Pete, Alex, Brad, thanks for the polar plots. When a sailing friend saw my page of calculations he said, "there's charts for that." I'm thinking that the CS-20 polar plot is like the J-105, especially when the wind is up. The best downwind tactic is to sail 135 to 140 degrees off the wind in lighter air and then sail deeper off the wind as wind speed picks up to 20 kts. Or, on a typical day, sail 40 degrees off of dead downwind, then head more downwind in the puffs. Pete, my experience in ice boating is that you can't really go downwind, and you think you can't pull the sheet in hard enough going upwind. Alex, that is a very interesting link. Good find. Brad, good choice to show the difference between the Hunter (beam reach is fastest) and the broad reaching J-105.
  5. This thread is an offshoot of the Velocity Made Good (VMG) discussion in the Everglades Challenge 2019 thread. I always want to reach downwind rather than running wing and wing. But, I never really know how much faster I have to reach to have a better vmg. I thought the vmg function on a GPS would give the answer but it doesn't. Feel free to correct my trig calculations, it's been awhile. Course deviation of 10 degrees gives a 2% longer course. 20 degrees gives a 6% longer course. 30 degrees gives a 15% longer course. 40 degrees gives a 31% longer course. 45 degrees gives a 41% longer course. If you can do 5 kts straight down wind, then: 10 degrees off is 5.1 knots to stay even 20 degrees off is 5.3 30 degrees off is 5.8 40 degrees off is 6.6 45 degrees off is 7.1 kts. Once the ice melts I will check this out.
  6. I've always been disappointed in vmg readings on instruments I've used. Maybe I need better equipment. For instance, when tacking to a mark, on the second last leg (tacking to the lay line), vmg gradually diminishes until it reaches 0 at the lay line. Then you tack to sail directly to the mark and the vmg jumps to boat speed and stays there until you reach the mark. In reality your progress to the mark was constant over both legs. Does anyone have a GPS that will give the constant reading? When gibing downwind compared to running wing-and-wing, the instrument will usually say that vmg drops with gibing. But, as in the example of tacking above, the vmg bonus reading comes on the last leg. On legs prior to the last one the vmg will diminish as you go along.
  7. Southern Skimmer, how do you rate the wishbone sprits?
  8. Scott, I'd say try the plastic wood filler if it gives the color you want. Just let it fully dry before coating it with epoxy. I don't like using a filler with cabosil for spots like screw heads because it is harder than the surrounding surface and therefore doesn't sand the same. Some epoxies mixed with wood flour shrink as they cure and the next season you will see dimples on the surface. And, as you noted, epoxy will darken the wood flour.
  9. Dawn and Paul, hope you can repost the build pictures that were deleted!
  10. Acreew, You probably saw this post re lead tip for the centerboard: http://sailnaway.blogspot.com/2014/04/a-little-side-project.html. Thanks to Alan for doing it. The weight is about 18 lbs. I can see that it's not enough for ballast. Like you, I would like to know how much lead would be required. I have used a centerboard with 15 lbs of lead to keep the board down. Raising it is not an issue because the flotation of the centerboard makes the lead surprisingly light when it's in the water. The ballasted centerboard still needs a hold down to keep it from slamming back into the trunk in case of capsize. If you need to shape the lead casting so it's fair with the centerboard, I found a router with a carbide bit was effective.
  11. Nicely done! Please tell more about the foam. Can’t tell how you laid it over the frames. It appears you used some relief cuts to bend it. How did you fair it to get the smooth contours? Thanks.
  12. 20 hours ago, Reacher said: A boat typically has a thru-bulkhead electric connection to allow plug in to a 110v line. The 110v then goes inside the boat to a battery charger which is connected to the battery. Hirilonde replied: "That would be extremely dangerous. Only a proper shore power system should be hard wired in a boat for AC, including a reverse polarity switch." I don't think I described anything dangerous. Typically a boat will have an electrical connection to the outside. The shore power cord is plugged into the connection and that is how electricity is brought into the boat. However, I did describe a system that is more complex than Acreew needs. I was thinking the topic was a CS17-3. Sorry. A USB port in a car is protected with a 5 amp fuse. This could be done in the boat with a simple fuse block or an in line fuse. I agree that easiest charging on land is to use a portable charger on an extension cord.
  13. A boat typically has a thru-bulkhead electric connection to allow plug in to a 110v line. The 110v then goes inside the boat to a battery charger which is connected to the battery. The battery is then connected to a fuse/switch panel, such as Blue Seas makes. For a CS17 this panel might have six fused switches for masthead light, nav lights, radio, charging outlets, cabin lights, gps. You then run wires from the panel to your outlets, etc. Whenever you want to use something you flip the appropriate switch. To keep it simple you might omit the thru-bulkhead and just lead an extension cord in to the cabin to plug in the battery charger.
  14. I've sailed Georgian Bay and the North Channel. In my opinion a dinghy won't be necessary. You can pull up to shore and step off. You can drop the anchor and pull the stern close to shore and step off. The rocky islands mean you have to scout for a good level camp site.
  15. Paul, thanks for the good write up on the race and describing how it works. It was great to sail along side another Core Sound. I don't know how the committee arrived at the PHRF rating. I won't complain because it was fair to generous to me, but I think the CS 17 was rated a little high in comparison and deserved a better standing. I don't think Paul gained anything by being one of a few boats to go the other way around Green Island, but it was a good strategy. If there was a big wind shift it could have paid big dividends over the rest of the fleet. It was too bad that the wind settled in the second half of the race. After 8 miles of tacking and sailing close hauled I was looking for some good reaching to make up time. As it was, the racing ended for me at the windward mark because my position didn't change. I passed one boat, and one passed me, a North American 40. I was pleased about the pointing ability. Paul took the lead off the start and I could see he was making good progress upwind. I tried to match his technique. My tracker showed us tacking through about 95 degrees. And, even though the wind didn't allow us to demonstrate the reaching strength of Core Sound boats, I was happy that in light wind the boats still out performed their length and held off the longer keels. It was a blast, and, as the only centerboarders in the race, we felt that we represented our class well. A 15 mile race on the waters of Green Bay is a good test.
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