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Reacher last won the day on December 2 2019

Reacher had the most liked content!

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About Reacher

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  1. I used foam/foil soundproofing material available through West Marine or Defender or similar marine stores. The material is 1.5 or 2 inches thick. My installation was around the engine on an I/O, so totally enclosed. The noise reduction was significant and worthwhile, but not as quiet as I hoped. My boat is also made of plywood, so the whole thing is a sound board. The best place to ride is in the bow where the dash and windshield block the sound. The foam in soundproofing is open cell. It absorbs sound, but also water. I don’t know how effective it is when wet. The foa
  2. A few years ago I shared shop space with a fellow building aScamp from a kit. He started the boat at a Scamp Camp, which is common. After a couple of years he was trying to finish it. Paul is right in that it is a complicated build compared to a CS15. The builder told me there are a lot of half done Scamps out there that never progressed beyond the Scamp Camp stage. I can’t comment on Scamp sailing characteristics. But I would strongly suggest that a potential builder should see one, talk to the builder, sail one, and look at the reality of using the boat. In my opinion the CS15 is
  3. Thanks for showing us your trip. It is inspiring to see the boats in action. Going sail camping on Rainy Lake in September is ambitious. And, it looks like you made some good tacks in the channel. Well done.
  4. Nothing has broken on my CS20 Mk 1. Things that I have stressed the most are the masts and the mizzenmast sprit and rigging. The masts were stressed when sailing with full roach sails, unreefed, in 20 knot winds with four adults aboard to hold down the weather side. Lots of bend to the aluminum masts. The mizzen when jibing. The mainsail jibes first and gently because it is shielded by the mizzen. In strong winds the mizzen will really pop across if not sheeted in, something I don’t always do. Again, no damage. An example of operator error. I tie the centerb
  5. Regarding paint, I would skip the Rustoleum marine paint. I tried it. It is inexpensive, fairly tough, but inferior in finish. Consider Interlux Brightside one part polyurethane along with its primer. Sand the primer well and you will be rewarded.
  6. https://www.classglobe580.com A nice intro and graphic by Alan.
  7. The masking tape method looks interesting and I might give it a try sometime. I marked the waterline on a friend’s CS 17 using a laser level and it worked out well. The boat was blocked fore and aft so that the level registered to the design waterline marks on the bow and stern as taken from the plans. Then the boat was leveled side to side. The laser line was traced onto the boat. Then the laser level was raised 2.5 inches and the upper line was traced. The “as painted” line was wider at the transom and noticeably wider at the bow due to the slant of of the hull at those points. I
  8. I haven't been in a windy anchorage with my Core Sound. A few times nudged up to shore, at docks, and in a quiet cove. If swinging was a problem I would try a stern anchor, take a line to shore, or raise enough of the mizzen to stabilize the boat. When observing keel boats at anchor I've seen some that fight it and some that lie head to wind.
  9. Anders, I have used a makeshift tent that works. I have a tarp that ties to the main mast and the mizzenmast mast. The edges of the tarp tie to eyelets along the rails. Then I open a golf umbrella under the center of the tarp to provide structure and headroom and to shed rain. The umbrella is 6ft in diameter. I also have a CS 20. There is ample room under the tarp for sleeping using a filler board between the centerboard trunk and the starboard seat. Sometime I might try a second tarp between the transom and the mizzenmast, with another golf umbrella underneath. I also thou
  10. According to the article the boat was upright when the CG arrived. It didn't capsize until hit with downwash from the helicopter. Like everyone else, I send my condolences to the family.
  11. https://www.menards.com/main/tools/hand-tools/staplers-staples-rivet-tools/tool-shop-long-handle-rivet-tool/80570/p-1444421792480-c-9164.htm A long handled rivet tool similar to this worked for me when installing stainless steel rivets in the sail track.
  12. Regarding the knee separating from the transom. I had an old Thompson 15 lapstrake outboard with a 30 hp motor that had the same condition. That knee was only held by screws, no epoxy. I relocated the failing screw into good wood, used thickened epoxy in the joint, and everything was still holding together when I sold the boat 5 years later. My inclination would be do a similar fix on your boat. Run the saw blade through only where the joint has separated to clean up the surfaces. Then shim/epoxy, or just epoxy, and get a good screw in place. I would leave the rest of the knee untouched becau
  13. I’d say no reglassing is necessary. 12 oz cloth is plenty thick. I’d use 80 grit on a random orbit sander to grind down the high spots. Or the wood rasp if that works. Then fill the low spots with bondo. Then sand it smooth, prime and paint. Others might recommend an epoxy based filler for the low spots, but bondo will do just fine in this application. A couple/few hours of sanding will make a huge difference.
  14. If the rudder is fixed (doesn't swing up?) How do keep the end plate from becoming a weed catcher?
  15. Steve, good to do the transducer test. Also, good to learn how to sew. When I built a 22' motorboat 20 years ago I was quoted $5,000 to do a full camper enclosure. That's when I bought a sewing machine. I got so much use sewing bimini tops, dodgers, cushions, rain tarps, boat covers, a screen room, bags of all sorts, and a genoa for a Tartan 34 using a high school gym floor to lay it out.
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