Reacher

Wes, good luck with you move. There are a few Core Sounds in Wisconsin should you want to join the fleet. But I especially want to thank you for posting your build log for others to learn from and to demonstrate excellent quality construction. I found it valuable when I was completing my CS 20. The Core Sound 20 Mk1...Accept No Substitutes!!

Andy, Great choice on the Core Sound 20 mk1! I hope to see it on the water this summer along with some other Core Sounds from the area. I rented a uhaul truck to tow a uhaul car hauler and it worked fine. I don’t know the rules for towing your own trailer. If you go that route I'd suggest finding out what the correct hitch drop is needed, if any, for a level tow.

I had a chance to talk with an abrasives manufacturing engineer about 3M cubitron. It is a ceramic grit. It goes onto the paper as tiny cubes. Each exposed edge is a cutting edge. As it is used the cube breaks along micro fracture lines and a particle breaks off. The newly exposed edges of the break form new sharp cutting edges. Cubitron is sometimes referred to as self-sharpening. The sandpaper will remain sharp as long as there is grit on the paper. In contrast, aluminum oxide, the most common grit, will wear smooth and lose its bite even while there is grit remaining. Cubitron requires pressure to fracture the ceramic grit and renew the edge. It is for power sanding only, not hand sanding. A random orbital sander works fine. I asked about non-clogging paper. Most sandpaper advertised as non-clogging is "open coat" sandpaper where as much as 50% of the paper is not covered with grit. The spaces between the particles shed the residue. Some non-clogging papers have two layers of grit. The base layer is closed coat, completely covered, and the second is open coat and designed to wear off as it becomes clogged. I asked about epoxy. The clogging problem, as we know, is from not letting it cure. If the paper clogs with epoxy it is actually buffing the surface, not abrading it. "If there is no dust you are not sanding." Finally I asked about which sandpaper to use. The answer was that for the home project just experiment and see what works best. Industrial users know how many board feet they are sanding per minute and how many total board feet they get per belt. The differences between grit, adhesive, backing and cost become apparent. The home woodworker isn't fine tuned like that.

I was gifted a Festool RO sander. I would not have bought such a premium product, having been satisfied with a Dewalt. But I believe the cost is justified, it is a great tool. It has a different hole pattern. I use Granit paper for now. I am definitely going to try 3M Cubitron net disks. https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/dc/v101281248/?gf=true&price=list-low. I think 3M is the leader for good reason. This new product sounds great for exceptional cutting, long life, and dust extraction. I'd be interested in any reports on this sandpaper.

Aphers, floatation placed high in the boat, snugged up under the rail or side deck is good. When the boat is capsizing or laying in its side, what was the high point while sailing becomes the low point at capsize.

I don't see a need for bottom paint unless the boat stays in the water at a slip or mooring. If it stays on a trailer the regular hull paint an be hosed and cleaned and waxed as necessary. I'm a believer in Interlux Brightside primer and paint as a one part paint that looks good and wears well. It is rolled and tipped. I know others on the forum will recommend a two part paint. I'm not sure why you don't want gloss. With good prep work a gloss looks good. The more expensive the paint the higher the gloss--that is what the company is selling. You might want non skid in certain areas.

Kennnneee, Thanks for relating the experience. Launch ramps are an endless source of entertainment and I have provided my share over the years. Centerboard not down, rudder not locked down so it floated up, ghosting to a gentle landing when a big gust comes out of nowhere, etc. Advice I heard long ago was to tell the crew not to reach out with a hand or foot to fend off a landing. Let the boat take the bump. And tell the crew not to jump for the dock. What I need help with is getting the mainsail to drop cleanly to the deck. The last quarter gets hung up and continues to catch wind when I'm trying to glide to the dock. That's made for a couple of scrambles. Oh, and tell anyone who wants to help not to grab the foot of the mast when lifting it up to step it.

I have to disagree with Designer. I think it was entirely the fault of the crew. The crew's very presence caused Kennneee to alter how he normally would have executed a competent docking. It put the boat at risk. Best practice is to have the crew swim ashore while the skipper lands the boat.

Good work and thanks for the photos. And the final cost is...$5250, including labor, materials, and shop overhead?

I used this method to install a centerboard in a Tartan 34, working alone. I found it useful to draw directional arrows along the lines of the X. When a guide line came into view the arrow told me which way to the hole. This might also pertain to Avocet.

It’s a good list. Under options you might include a tabernacle, at least as an option on Mark I boats. Also bow sprits and stay sails.

Padre Point, Don is making some additional hull modifications to Avocet.

Thanks for posting the videos.

Yes to silicon bronze frearson drive wood screws with a combination pilot bit attachment for joining wood. (That's a mouthful for a simple little step.) Yes to using some stainless sheet metal screws for deck fittings on the Core Sound to match metals or when cap heads are needed. And don't forget to clear any sawdust from between the plank and the frame after the pilot hole is drilled.

Also, the pilot hole should be a little shorter than the screw so that the threads at the tip bite into wood. I can’t remember the additional holding strength the tip provides, but it is significant and worth doing.