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Reacher last won the day on September 1

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  1. Padre Point, Don is making some additional hull modifications to Avocet.
  2. Thanks for posting the videos.
  3. Yes to silicon bronze frearson drive wood screws with a combination pilot bit attachment for joining wood. (That's a mouthful for a simple little step.) Yes to using some stainless sheet metal screws for deck fittings on the Core Sound to match metals or when cap heads are needed. And don't forget to clear any sawdust from between the plank and the frame after the pilot hole is drilled.
  4. Also, the pilot hole should be a little shorter than the screw so that the threads at the tip bite into wood. I can’t remember the additional holding strength the tip provides, but it is significant and worth doing.
  5. I did try BandB site first but didn't see the listing for roller covers so I went with Duckworks. By all means support the home crew.
  6. https://duckworks.com/epoxy/tools-supplies/ If you happen to be in Madison you can get them at McCormick Lumber.
  7. Andy, thanks for the compliment but the credit belongs to Paul and his sailing family. Paul, thanks for posting. You’ve had a good year of sailing so far. More to come I hope.
  8. Kevin, it is ok to drill holes in the sprit. I used a hole just big enough for a 3/16 line. Tied a knot on the topside so it couldn’t pull through the hole and tied the block to the free end on the bottom side of the sprit. You can mount all sorts of hardware on the sprits. Reefing blocks and cleats in particular. Congratulations on your purchase, I’m sure you will enjoy it. Just remember the designer’s main rule: Always keep the mainsheet at hand so it can be quickly released in strong gust. Don’t cleat it and forget it. The mizzen sheet is an afterthought.
  9. The sheet blocks get attached to the end of the sprit. The most basic way is a short line, up to 6”, hanging down from the sprit and the block snaps into a loop on the end of that short line. If the sprits have a hole near the end my guess is that the hole is the attachment point for the short line. Other sailors install eyelets near the end of the sprit and snap the block to the eyelet.
  10. Thanks for the invitation. I may be able to drive over if schedules work out.
  11. For a 22’ boat I used hollowback (half oval) stainless steel pre drilled. I bedded it in 3M 5200. Twenty years and it is in great condition, no bending or deflection even where it rides on the front keel roller. TACO marine product. I purchased through Jamestown, but you might get it locally through West Marine or other. Shipping costs will affect your length/source choices. I have used narrow brass stem bands, solid and oval back, on canoe stems. They look nice but don’t have the strength of the stainless steel I used on the bigger boat. On a tangent, I just completed a wood strip kayak. I used 1” kevlar band for the stems and for the outside hull-deck joint. Too soon to give an assessment, but it is definitely tough.
  12. The problem is corrected. Thanks to the site admin if they fixed it.
  13. I can’t access any postings on bandb forum. I get a page that says ex145 error somethings gone wrong please try again later. Signed out, signed in, no change. Did a web search on the error code and it sounds like an administrator problem, maybe a data base crash.
  14. Paul, Good video. The boat has little heel, the sails are full, you are not fighting the gusts or luffing up, a steady hand on the tiller, both crew securely in the boat and charging along. Well done.
  15. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://messing-about.com/forums/topic/11334-roller-trough-for-a-cs203-trailer/&ved=2ahUKEwi4rs_uk8H2AhXWkWoFHTRMDLcQFnoECAMQAQ&usg=AOvVaw2_H3ykn5fAJ01CmFHd-YRk I'm bad at the search function but this link should get you to Pete McCrary 's thread on rollers.
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