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Alan Stewart

Taylor and Alan's CS-20 MK3 #15

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Note, more pictures than what are show below are on my build album (link below)

https://photos.app.goo.gl/22Tfg2WR5pTSBHyw1

 

The last thing I got done was glassing the ballast tank "Bathtub" with 10oz glass. I did NOT use peel ply for that because i've found that it does not do a good job with hand layup in larger areas and severe pinholes are the typical result. Instead I just coated the glass and then after about 6 hours i came back in and flood coated with a brush the whole area to fill the weave with a nice thick glossy coat over the glass. Worked very well. Pic below. 

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Ballast tank "tub" fiberglassed and flood/fill coated (no peel ply)

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Resulting smooth surface

 

Fast forward 3 months from above. After about a 3 month hiatus (amazing how easy that is to do) we've got some progress to report. I spent a weekend getting the garage back to a state of mild organization and then got a little bit of work done.  Starboard bunk compartments are glassed. I sanded some of the glass tape edges (all tape was applied with peel ply) that stuck up a bit higher than normal and generally felt around for sharp dags or glass spikes near the ends of the tape and sanded them all smooth. The middle parts of each panel were still uncoated bare plywood with some drips here and there which were sanded smooth with 80 grit. Then I "flood coated" each compartment with a chip brush and did a final pass with a foam brush to flatten it a bit. I tried to use as much epoxy as I could whilst still not having runs. It came out quite well. Even with just the single coat almost all the areas that were bare ply are now fully saturated to a glossy finish albeit with some roughness from raised grain here and here. I plan to sand a few spots where the epoxy soaked in more and apply a second coat but other than that I’m happy with how it came out. There are a few spots where the bottom stringer still needs a small fillet with the partial frames to eliminate the last little crevice which i'll do before putting down the bunk itself. 

 

I also coated the hypotenuse side of my triangular section cleats and then a few hours later (when it had soaked in) coated them again in preparation for installing the following day.

 

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Before note that triangular cleats for bunk top support were all pre-fitted and held in place with temporary drywall screws. Then these were removed in order to coat the compartments. 

 

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Starboard bunk compartments sanded and coated. Cleats were installed the following day while the coats were still "green".

 

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Triangular cleats coated on "long" side. Note bent wire holder worked well. 

 

Also, not pictured here, I glued up my sheer strake finger joints and test fitted the sheer strake on the boat. The raised edge of the temporary gunwale batten makes this very easy as the sheer strake just fits right into place with any clamps. 

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Alan, are you going to have a “plug” in the motor well when the motor is retracted?  Bet the pesky mizzen sheets won’t get caught in your motor!

 

 

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If you go with a Torqueedo, maybe consider that it stores somewhere besides in place.  No oil or gas to spill in doing so.  And you can make an insert to fill the hole when sailing.

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Very true. I think at this point we are going to press on with the well as is and see how it works. Probably splash the boat before paint so we can try it out. I want to have an insert to fill the hole smooth regardless. 

 

Also, note to past self... you shouldn't have glued the sheer strake panels together until you were ready to put them up on the boat because they are very long and very in the way in the garage. 

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Great Post. Love that you are keeping a log. I didn't. The hours added up. I'd get the motor you want and figure it out before commitment. There isn't much room for error there.

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Ditto what Steve posted. The geometric configuration of an OBM may seem simple, but it isn't.  Accurate dimensional drawings are hard to come by.  Get the motor and construct a "mock-up" for installation and try out various routines.  You're bound to discover limitations and figure out accommodating adjustments.

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Update #4: bunk top egdes glassed and ballast tank bh4 mostly glassed in. Started fitting bh3 and the port sheer strake in place. Also i talked about how the side stringer causes the side panel to deform slightly outward and how the side panel shrunk a bit on my boat due to the neutral axis of the plywood. 

 

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Fantastically informative and explained clearly in simple terms. I like that you explain what to look out for during the build and more importantly how to correct it. If pictures are worth a thousand words, your videos have been priceless!

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