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Alan Stewart

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Everything posted by Alan Stewart

  1. Don, thats awesome! I just put that plan on the site last week. Glad it worked for you with the paper templates. Thanks for sharing.
  2. Don, You caught us, we prototyped the new version but then dropped the ball a bit on it and I haven't got the final version in kit form. We have a few big jobs on the list this month but its on our short list along with finishing those windvane plans.
  3. Get a roll of plastic sleeve and slide it over the piece and plumb steam into the end and steam the whole thing in the long bag. Bend on and steam in place as well. Tips from a shipwright has some good videos on this on youtube.
  4. With the S11,10 and 9 yes they have screws into the breashook but the S12 with the full foredeck overhanging the gunwales provides more glue area to prevent them from possibly moving. That said it wouldnt hurt to have a couple of permanent ss screws into the mast collar piece. One thing to watch out for is if you put a nice roundover on the tip of the bow gunwales to make sure that is taken into account when placing screws near the ends.
  5. You can also buy devoe devthane 379 in many colors now. A cheap alternative to awlgrip. Painted pretty much all of my boats with it so far and they look like the day I did it (minus the dings) https://www.devoesuperstore.com/devoe-urethane-2/
  6. Sometimes I think it is because of our knack for leaving out details in the plans is really because we enjoy answering forum questions and emails so much! In reality, customer service should always be at the top! You are correct that these parts are all butt blocks. The Parts sheet shows the location somewhat by process of elimination. I will make a note that we need a little more indication in the plan sheets. 24A is for the side decks 25B goes between the side decks and foredeck. (just a bit of foredeck overhangs the fwd bulkhed) 26A and B are for the aft center and amidships seat top joints 27A are for underneath the fore and aft center thwarts connecting the bit of seat top that sticks inboard to join up with the thwart panel and the center panel itself.
  7. I wold be looking to install a set of simple hiking straps fore and aft int he cockit if you wanted to hike out. Most cockpit dinghies have them like a piece of 3" padded webbing to put your feet under. some have one on each side. Just need an anchor point fore and aft which could be an eye strap into the keel or vertical transom beam or on the fwd side of the bolts for the lower gudgeon and up forward it could just loop around the front of the daggerboard trunk with a small eye strap to keep it from riding up the front edge of the trunk.
  8. Boat looks great so far. Congratulations! And also, married?!?! that is cool too.
  9. If only those pesky plans would update themselves!
  10. Yes this was the idea. new design for the CNC cut daggers. The little cleats are prone to breaking off if not don't right and this prevents that and you can't jam your fingers. That was the idea anyway.
  11. This is usually caused by the resin "crystalizing" in the jug and then the crystals get sucked up in the pump and cause it to lose vacuum. The solution is to heat the whole thing up to re melt the crystals. All resins do this. We do it in the microwave, squeeze some air out of the jig so you don't pressurize it, put the cap on and microwave it for 60 seconds at the time checking in between. usually takes about 5-6 minutes. You can't microwave the spring of the pump of course so you might have to clean it again. Also check that the white plunger is making good contact with the inside walls of the clear plastic tube on the inside, sometimes ive been able to "spread" out the plunger rim with my fingernail a bit to widen it and it makes better contact with the inside of the tube. give it a try. Some just order new resin but it is doable. I keep my epoxy in the garage at 80 deg and haven't had any issues for months now. I got a call from another builder today who said he keeps his on a heat pad at 60 deg and his started crystalizing after a few months.
  12. Looks good from here. Personally i think the rudder will be fine with a layer of glass on it. You could rip it in half vertically and glue in a stick of wood which would add stiffness. Sort of like a spine. A solid wood rudder blade is stiffer since all the wood fibers run one direction of course unlike plywood but then again on this boat the loads on the rudder are miniscule. You are more likely to break it by accidentally stepping on it or backing the boat into something with the rudder up.
  13. There are pros and cons to pre-coating. For this boat in particular I think it's a wash to "pre-coat" the actual hull panels because then they require sanding to prep for assembly and taping. There are many areas on this boat that can be coated and finished without ever picking up a sanding tool for example in all of the flotation tanks (seat tanks) after taping these areas can simply be coated with 3 coats of epoxy and done no sanding needed. Many of us however choose to sand after the first or second coat in these areas just so the final coats are smoother since epoxy tends to soak in and raise the grain slightly. I have found that sanding the plywood with 150or 220 grit and vacuuming the wood prior to coating helps that a lot. In other areas this is the best practice and or even required like underneath the seat tops. For the underside of the seat tops I like to apply a nice heavy coat while it is flat and then within the curing window, apply another coat right before gluing it down.
  14. Small inspections ports up to 8" into all compartments is not a bad idea. On badly built Spindrifts they would keep the boat alive for many more years. One boat we worked on the underside of the seat tops and inside the lockers was never coated and it rotted from the inside out. A major rebuild. If properly coated however and sealed well, I think even with no inspection ports the boat should last indefinitely so long as everything is well sealed. The ports need not necessarily serve for storage but rather just for "airing out" when the boat is stored. If I were going to put ports into the longitudinal bulkheads I would use Beckson DP-6 screw in type. We sell them for $19 a piece. I just checked on duckworks for pricing and it looks like they've got a new seadog one. https://www.duckworks.com/product-p/sd-335745-parent.htm could be good also.
  15. Just had a very nice and socially distanced pickup of CS-15 #162 kit. Ted came with many great questions and we thoroughly enjoyed seeing another human being. Especially one with such great taste in boats.
  16. Yes, I would install the blocks just behind the dovetail joint glass. A 2-3" square piece of 3/4" plywood is ideal. One on each side. We pre-drill the top one so the screw falls through and grabs the bottom one and pulls them together.
  17. In case you did not see here is some video of the bow joint. Here is a picture of how to do it from the Core Sound 17 Mark 3 plans. I need to add this sheet for the spindrifts as well but soon we hope to build another spindrift and video the entire process. Naturally, use the dimension shown for the S12 plans for the stern ends for the panel alignment. It is not necessary to fiberglass the finger scarf joints (these) after gluing them together. Hope that helps!
  18. The PFD setup that I use in expedition events like the Watertribe Everglades Challenge meets the Watertribe required equipment but has also evolved to work best for me as a small boat sailor. I feel strongly that everyone should wear a PFD at all times on small boats and if you have the means the next most important piece of gear you should invest in is a small modern EPIRB like the one shown. They are so cheap these days and small and unobtrusive it's very cheap insurance for us small boat sailors especially if you sail by yourself! Here is some more info about this now on our website. https://bandbyachtdesigns.com/blog/setting-up-a-pfd-for-small-boat-sailing/ Enjoy.
  19. Sure, you could do that if you wanted. Just be careful not to crack the wood with screws. You could also glue the stringer on with the side panels cambered/bowed inward a bit like a pre-bend. I've never tried that but can't see the harm so long as you did both side panels that way equally. Probably just makes gluing them on harder though. You could also just leave the forward ends of the side stringers loose like stop the glue say 4' back from the fwd end of the stringer and then after the boat is folded up, pull the stringer away a bit and squirt glue in there and glue the fwd section in post-folding. Probably all of that is overthinking it because the bend on the S12 just isn't that severe not like the smaller Spindrifts. In the first 6 feet it's only 4 3/4" of camber.
  20. Good questions. I can see how that is confusing. The top figure in the sheet you attached is intended more for boats built from plans. In this case the boat is folded up before the side stringer is installed and the stringer is glued in after the fact due to the difficulty in drawing the stringers location accurately on the flat panel. We now show a plan sheet with dimensions for the stringer referencing the edges of the side panel but still say to glue it in after folding. In the past it was marked on the inside of the hull with a straight edge laid across the longitudinal bulkheads after they were fitted. In this case the forward bulkhead is already in place so the side stringer is ended at the bulkhead for simplicity and to ease the bending of the stringer that inside forward portion is trimmed off as the figure shows. Now we have the kit version. For the boat built from the kit, the stringer location is drawn perfectly onto the hull panels so the stringer can be confidently glued to the side panel first which saves it having to be done in situ (a little easier of a job). In this case we bevel the stringer and then glue it down. Then it is tapered down to zero to ease bending the bow part and eliminate the potential of a hard spot. The stringer goes through the fwd bulkhead in this case. The extra 7 degrees of bevel as the stringer transitions forward is fairly minor and i think it's fine to just glue it down with just the 10 degree bevel and then simply tweak the top surface with a block plane after the boat is folded up. The difference in angle makes for only about 3/32" or so variation with gluing down the seat tops which is very easily filled up with thickened epoxy. On the smaller Spindrift 9,10 and 11 it's a lot easier to bend the side panels without the stringer in place and then install it afterward but on the 12 it's no problem. The last S11 kit we did a test fold up for a boat show with the stringer pre-glued and the bend was a bit too much for the piece just behind the forward bulkhead and it "kinked' on the inside right where we'd used a drywall screw to hold it while gluing forming an ugly hard spot on the outside of the hull. The screw hole clearly weakened the wood ever so slightly but that particular piece of wood chosen for that stringer wasn't too good either which highlights that the side stringers should have nice straight grain with no runout especially in the forward half of the boat.
  21. Hey Crazer, Thanks for sharing your build with us! I can answer your last question. The Two paw 8 design underwent a small face-lift at the end of last year. I think you got your plans just before this. In this face-lift we added the forward bulkhead and the rear triangular shaped "aft seat tanks" to the kit version of the Two Paw 8 in an effort to add some buoyancy to the kit boat. Then a few months after that we added these details to the plans. Not big changes mind you but that explains the difference you see in your plan sheets. I can send you the updated plan sheets if you would like for the cost of printing and postage but I don't want you to worry that yours are "lesser". You can easily pattern a forward bulkhead at the aft edge of the forward seat which is what I would recommend doing anyway that is assuming you'd like to also have the forward compartment. You'll note that Don fashioned his own custom seat which is very hansom and not at all in the plans either. Custom mods are what it's all about with a home build. There are disadvantages of the extra stuff. mainly, extra weight!
  22. Padre, Welcome to the forum! Got your kit right here. Well its getting close anyway. I'm sure we will see hull #162 folded up in no time with the encouragment of this lot. -Alan
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