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Alan Stewart

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Everything posted by Alan Stewart

  1. My Dad really loved this thing when we had Dawn Patrol our Core Sound 20. When not going fast enough for the venturi bailer to suck and water got in the boat either by rain or spray you just reach down and flip the switch. Put the hose in the cb trunk. The d cell batteries lasted a year or so. We found it to be very reliable. We always made sure the oring seal was clean and lightly coated in lanolin. I think a good choice for least effort and not wanting to cut the boat. Another advantage is it can go in a kayak or anywhere else in the boat you need to dewater while you do something else. Attwood 4140-4 WaterBuster® Portable Pump, Submersible, Battery Powered, 200 GPH, 42-Inch Hose, 5 ¼-Inch Diameter https://a.co/d/jaRUdba
  2. Hey Jay, I couldn't get your video to play but happy to see you on here and rest assured any issues you come across we will be happy to help resolve with you. I think it is a fair critique that we should have a bit more info on the build sequence for Marissa as she's become very popular in the last 5 years or so with over 100 plans sold now and she is too good a boat for first time builders to be scared off from taking her on. We will work on that. In the mean time we are so happy to have you here! -Alan
  3. Yes for sure just as good if the thickness of epoxy is equal. The problem is that it's hard to know if the thickness is even throughout without kind of overdoing it in spots. Multiple thin coats ensures a good even thickness everywhere but some of us get impatient. Thickness of epoxy is the most important thing for a good barrier coat to protect the wood from moisture. One other way to achieve a consistent thickness barrier coat is to just glass the wood even if not needed for strength a layer of say 6oz cloth over plywood necessitates a certain amount of epoxy to fill the weave and therefore ensures a good barrier coat. Glassing the ply as a means to an end (getting a decent coat of epoxy on the surface) is just another trick that sometimes makes sense to use.
  4. I haven't tried those grey ones yet but with a plastic core they probably hold up longer than the foam ones for sure but you can get a pretty smooth finish with the yellow ones. For coating flat parts on a table however I've started just using a wide chip brush and doing a "flood coat" pretty thick and just brushing it out as smooth as I can. Wouldn't do that if i was going for extreme weight savings but it's a one and done method. If you can still see the wood fibers, pour on some more! I also sand the wood if I'm going to do that with 220 grit to keep the fuzzy grain rise to a minimum.
  5. We also use the wooster ones at the shop. (These). We like to buy the 7" ones and cut them in half on the bandsaw for use on a 3" roller cage. https://bandbyachtdesigns.com/wooster-brush-r730-7-tiz-foam-roller-cover-1-8-inch-nap-2-pack-7-inch/ two 7" rollers for $2.90 gives you four 3.5" rollers for about $0.75 each They are about 1/8" foam over cardboard and usually last through about 2-3 epoxy batches before the foam starts to get all floppy and then we just toss.
  6. Yeah do it! I got a dji mavic mini as a Christmas present. A very impressive machine. Graham also has the larger mavic pro.
  7. Come one come all! Sign up is now live on the B&B website. Let us know you're coming! For all the info (click here) or just go straight to the signup form. And we're planning to go back to our Friday night buffet dinner at Little Italy for which you can now get your tickets. I compiled some picture albums from past years. Check out here. I have a feeling we are going to be a really great Messabout this year. Here is some drone video from last year.
  8. I'm not crazy about the webbing strap for keeping the mast forward I think it will be too hard to keep it tight. I drew up a gate that would work and swing open. Some 1/8" aluminum scraps top and bottom through bolted through the cutout section make the swinging part. A couple of radiuses are made to allow it to swing open. I can send you a 1:1 paper template if you want to get the size.
  9. The resistance at the bottom is because the plywood side is bent and the break is allowing it to return to being flat and unfair. I would try hard to force it back to where it was but it will take some pushing. Easiest might be to wedge a stick inside the boat pushing out about 6" or so in front of the vertical part of that break you can tap it in with a hammer to dial it in. Like such... So, dryfit that and once happy, squirt a bunch of glue in the crack. Wedge it back out the fillet and tape inside and filler in the holes and glass tape/cloth on the outside and should be good as new. From what I can see i think you're good on the gunwale cut. I think i'd jus fill that up with thickened epoxy and clamp it back together. For filling holes i'd use cabosil thickened epoxy. Micro fibers or (milled fibers) won't hurt but nasty to sand it if you have to. cabosil is good enough. Just don't use microspheres or microbaloons for anything but fairing ontop of the glass repairs.
  10. I agree i would repair the crack in the side (aft seat tank area) first then the gunwale. That way also you can more easily run a hand saw up against the side of the hull when sawing into the gunwale crack. These days I pretty much always just lay my glass tape right onto my wet fillet right after I do it. You can wait a little while until it stiffens up but i'm too impatient. Once i have the joint ready to tape (in your case, sanded/ground and clean) I'd lay in my fillet, clean it up then mix my regular epoxy for the glass tape and paint a generous coat of epoxy above and below the fillet with the edge of my brush just grazing the edge of the fillet. If you're fillet mix is thick enough and stiff enough you can brush right over it gently. Then i lay the glass tape in and it immediately soaks up that coat. Then i brush on additional epoxy onto the glass tape and it usually doesn't' take much and it's done. If you put down too much epoxy and see runs just wipe your brush and wipe the excess up, repeat to remove some excess. Since you're doing repairs around paint i'd tape a piece of plastic like a bib under any repair area i work on when I do the repair so that if you do get an over excited drop of epoxy try to run down it won't leave a rude line of epoxy in the painted area. On the gunwale forward, there would be nothing practically wrong with adding a strip to the inside over the damage and as you said it would be covered. Personally I think it'd instead just put a couple of layers of glass tape on the inside running fore and aft along the top of the side panel adjacent the damaged area. You'll already have some glass there since the vertical panel crack goes all the way to the top but that would give a lot of good tensile strength to the inside of the panel to help out the gunwale which might not regain 100% of it's rigidity.
  11. While the damage looks bad at first glance I agree with Graham. I think the repairs are all pretty simple and straightforward. Depending on how much you want it look exactly like it was this is a 2 or 3 day job at most plus some paint touchups. I tried doing a video reply hopefully this has some good suggestions for you. Let me know!
  12. Here is a shot of the mast partner on the S12 here at the shop. Graham would know the story on it probably. It does not hinge like I thought but does allow for stepping the mast starting at the bottom and rotating it up so at least you don't have to balance it as high up in the air but perhaps not really worth it for an S11 with the lighter stock mast. This one has wing nuts underneath so would be a chore to open and close very often. We have never opened it.
  13. Since you've already got a rig and sail that works I don't see why you should build a Spindrift mast to plan necessarily. I think you'll still have some difficulty stepping it alongside the mothership. I think what I would do is build and install a fiberglass tube or even use a PVC pipe to connect the top and bottom mast partners. It would not be load bearing under sail so it could just be slipped underneath the foredeck hole and over top of the existing mast step i.e. don't cut the foredeck hole larger to receive the pipe so as not to weaken it. Then you'd epoxy it in place and apply a fillet to the outside which should be strong enough to hold it in place if you get a bit off balance. You won't have to worry about landing the mast in the mast step. A fiberglass tube would be lighter and more elegant. If you scroll to the end of this video on how we make our glass tubes you'll see it being installed as a guide tube for the Core Sound 15 mizzen mast which serves the purpose i'm describing above. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JO_-sbbBRBM Another option would be to modify the foredeck partner with a removable section of the actual mast support collar specifically the aft half of the collar could be hinged to rotate 90 degrees and allow the mast to be set into the bottom step first and then rotated up into the top partner similar to a tabernacle action but with still some balancing required. Then with the mast vertical the aft section is rotated shut and a pin secures it. The S12 at our workshop actually has this setup I believe with an aluminum reinforcing plate top and bottom (i think) I can get another picture tomorrow but here is one from Graham's Trip to Sail Oklahoma in 2013 where you can just make out the aluminum part. andrewlinn.com/2013/131010_ok/03spin.jpg Of course a lighter mast would be easier. A balanced lug sail could be an option such as what we have on the Amanda dinghy but it will likely have lee helm with no change to the mast location. You want to try to keep the center of area of the sail as close to the designed location as you can.
  14. Hey Hugh, Sorry that this held you up. 84 7/8" is correct. Thank you for pointing out this typo. It was off by a factor of 1/2 likely from using the wrong dimension settings. That error hasn't come up until now because you're building the first Catspaw 8 since I updated the cutout sheet in 2020 to match the new 3d model so the parts should be more accurate. I double checked the rest and didn't find any other dimensions like this that were off by half. I'm glad it was so obviously off that it presented itself. -Alan
  15. Looks great! Cute boy helping in the garage and model airplanes strewn to the perimeter. I can relate.
  16. Can you poste a pic or diagram of the "EPA Plug" Sounds like something I need to do on mine.
  17. Hey Don if you email me the photos I can put them in the log. It's not automatic. I put it in there what you submitted so far. ?
  18. Padre, it was definitely unnerving flying the drone. If doing it again i'd launch from the stern deck because the drone immediately attempts to stop moving over the ground once airborne so you have to fly away quickly to avoid sailing into it. The cockpit coaming cutouts are standard on the 17mk3 and i'm sure you cut add them to your boat. There is no divider but I did add a divider on my 20mk3. Here is a picture I did that so i could put stuff in there without it sliding back and not being able to reach it. I knew any oars I use would be 2 piece and so would fit in the stern part. The coaming space was never factored into the floatation of the boat they're purely aesthetic and functional for cockpit comfort but of course if you seal them they will add some floatation and righting moment if they go under. We just did some more capsize testing of the Chiefs CS-17 Mark3 with a mast head float and i'll post the results soon. Hey Joe! thanks. Its the first time I've ever tried flying the drone off a moving boat. I did 2 flights and the first one the boat was wing on wing. Unfortunately the drone wasn't recording!!! but i did get some still images so thats how i got that shot. The second flight we gybed the main to make it easier to fly away from the boat after takeoff.
  19. Thanks but all are not back safe yet!!! Still some sailors on the course! Kevin (KDubs) and his daughter (Maggers) are closing in on the finish right now in their Core Sound 17 #398! They are doing great. https://watertribe.com/Events/ChallengeGMapper.aspx Here's a video i took from our first day sailing.
  20. Wow. I would have hoped our boats are worth a lot more than this. I was planning to list mine for 10k with a motor and trailer. Assuming these are actually in good condition these sellers are really losing on these and whoever gets them is getting a heck of a deal. Guess i'll just hold onto mine then.
  21. This is the other way you could possibly mount the float to a sea pearl. I did this successfully with my sleeve luff CS-17 when we were first testing the floats but I didn't take any pictures. Basically it's a PVC pipe with a slot on one side sanded nice and smooth that is a snug press fit over the top of the mast and sail. That creates a hollow PVC tube at the top into which you'd install the B&B float and aluminum tube. The whole thing would come off with a tug. Or the PVC could be a slip fit and you add a small grommet at the top of the sail leech and use a short lashing line to the top of the PVC pipe thus preventing it being able to lift off. Advantage to this method is no alteration to the sleeve or mast tops heck you wouldn't even have to take the sails off. But it would add the weight of that PVC pipe.
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