Brent

Steve, I don't come around this forum very often these days, but I still have my CS20. I remember meeting you at the MASCF event what now must be many years ago. I opened your thread just to see what was you were up to. I still crab and fish from my CS20, and it is certainly my go to boat for sailing around my river home. My joy of sail boat. I thought at one point I might sell it, but it has never gone on the market. I am glad to see you have your Core Sound up and running. I wish you many wonderful hours on board. Brent

Thanks for your thoughts Graham. The decision to sell has not been easy . The Princess has been a wonderful boat. She has seen plenty of miles these past few years. This boat has become well known along the Chesapeake. We are often greeted by curious boat lovers when we drop anchor in a new place. We have been introduced in social circles as the people who own that fast cat ketch...

I just posted a classified add for my Princess 26. Those of you who have followed this forum for a few years may recall this boat is built using foam core with carbon fiber masts, and has standing head room. Details are in the classified add. This boat has been a joy to own and sail. It has served as our gateway from open boats to extended cruising. We are now taking the next step to much larger blue water boat. So, I would love for this boat to find a home with someone who is ready for a great trailerable cruiser. As many here will appreciate Graham designs a wonderful boat. Navigator has certainly fulfilled my expectations for a great sailing boat that is comfortable to be on board. This is the third B&B boat I have built: I still have and love sailing my Core Sound 20 and wish I still had the Spindrift 12 too.

2015 B&B Yachts Princess 26 with 6’3” standing headroom. A standout in its class with foam core and epoxy fiberglass construction resulting in a very strong and light weight build. This boat is a capable coastal sailer with cruising comfort to stay out for the long haul. The two masts are free standing carbon fiber. The masts are mounted on carbon fiber reinforced tabernacles making raising the lower the masts an easy task for one person. The large sail area provides power to move the boat in light air, and the easy reefing system keeps the boat balanced on her feet when the breeze freshens. The sprit rig system makes for good sail shape control and very easy sailing. The sails are by Meade Breese and are mounted on sail track for easy hoisting and furling. Requiring only 14” of draft when the centerboard is tucked allows the full joys of shallow water sailing. Fully deployed the NACA foil centerboard draws 5’6” and provides excellent windward sailing. Setup as a cruiser for a couple. There is a very comfortable berth forward, an enclosed head, the galley has a sink and 2 burner cooktop plus oven, nav station, and a quarter berth. Ample storage and room below to stretch out. Ventilation is provided by a large forward hatch, 6 opening port lights, and the main companionway. Garmin GPS with Chirp depth sounder, autopilot, VHF, and battery charger. Bilge pump with switch. 40 gallon water tank, with gusher foot pumps at head sink and galley sink. 2015 Yamaha 9.9 high thrust four stroke with power tilt and electric start. Motor is rigged to steer in alignment with the rudder. Tows well on her trailer. Great for keeping cost of ownership low and expanding your cruising area. See a thread on this forum about Build Details. See also B&B Princess Design description. $16,000 If you ever thought of owning a Princess, now is an incredible opportunity.

where are they? I don't see a separate section for cruising stories. I don't see them in the B&B section. I don't come round here often, maybe I am out of touch. Brent

I put my oarlocks at deck height in a position that allows me to stand as far forward as possible without hitting my face on the missen mast. The tiller is long enough to ride between my knees. Pretty simple. I also put oarlocks forward of the missen for serious rowing. In 15 years of sailing the boat I have used the forward rowing station twice.

Rowing facing forward works very well for me. My CS20 sails so well in even a wisper of wind that rowing is seldom required. I expect the same from Lapwing. When I do row I have the sails up and the rudder between my knees. A few strokes of the oars to move the boat thru a tight spot or around the bend to catch the next breeze is all that is required. My oars are 9'6" This is the longest length that makes for good storing on my boat. Rowing is comfortable and efficient at this length. Setting up to skull from the stern is a good idea for moving the boat in close quarters, but insufficient to go against the tide in my waters.

Oh yes! Lots of fun.

The stay sail is a hoot to fly. I have used it it wander home at slow speed when the wind drops off, or go screaming off at double digit speeds in a breeze. Downside is the stay sail is fussy to jibe, limiting it use for a single handed sailor. I believe a screecher launched from a bow sprit would provide similar joy, while being easier to jibe. However helm balance is going to be a problem in a breeze.

Steve, next time I build I am considering mounting one of the ladders intended for mounting UNDER a swim platform, only mounted in a water tight compartment a few inches above the water line. The idea is that when retracted the ladder is inside the boat and mostly out of site.

I have been rowing a CS20 standing up for years. My boat is set up with rowing stations fore and aft of the mizzen. When sailing solos the forward station is best for long rowing situations as it getting the boat balanced with the stern riding high. In practice the boat sails so well on a whisper that long rowing situations are very rare. By the time I get rigged to row using the forward position a breath of wind comes along and moves the boat at least as fast as I can row. So what ends up happening is I use the aft rowing station standing up facing forward with the tiller between my knees and and oar in each hand while working the boat through close quarters, or getting around the bend to catch the next wind. I find the position quite comfortable and can deliver enough force to push the boat through a running tide. My oars are 9'6" and I am 6'2" tall. I also tried a yulou or sculling oar out the stern. This definitely works, and sculling at slow speeds with good technique can be sustained for long periods of time/distance. A proper yulou for the CS20 ends up about 14-16' long; I found storing it on board is a problem. I ended up preferring oars as above. Brent

Good basic plan. There is plenty or room for variation if weather or whim dictates. I am making plans to be ready to depart Chapel Creek on Tuesday morning.

I am hoping to come early and do some sailing too. It would be great to cruise with you!

Tom, Garry, I have sent you both PMs. Thanks for responding to my post. Brent

If you gave a Spindrift 9 or catspaw 8 that you would like to sell or trade let me know. Sorry but I am not particularly interested in the nesting versions.. Brent

I have rowing stations for and aft of the mizzen on a well traveled CS 20. In practice the aft station keeps the boat in better trim, but 90% of the rowing has been from the aft position facing forward, tiller tween the knees. Often end up rowing for 10 minutes to the next whisper of wind and we ghost away under sail

Maybe one other point... to add the the wisdom already dispensed. The aft seating area of the boat makes a great lounge area for stretching out on a lazy sail. Imagine laying flat with your feet up on the seat, an arm draped lazily over the tiller, maybe your head propped up on the transom while the boat moves sweetly in a whisper of a wind, you completely relaxed. Maybe a fishing line dragging behind, maybe not... The aft locker at seat height as shown in Peter's pictures really enhances that lounge area. I would consider even moving the aft bulkhead forward another foot to further expand the lounge. Also a great place for fishing...

Got the paint on. That is Interlux Perfection in Platimum color. Shes got 6' plus head room and weighs somewhere around 2200 lbs. The double layers of 17-08 on the outside with a single layer on the inside over foam core is very strong. The composite tabernacles came out incredibly strong. The keel is hollow, and gives a home for the bilge pump. Pouring the lead keel went well with some help from a good friend. The plan for the outboard on starboard is evident. Immediately forward of the motor is a fuel tank well with a partial cover to provide a deck over the fuel tank while still being well vented The deck drains through a scupper in the fuel tank well. On port opposite the fuel tank well is a large lazarette. I will need to build shelving in the seat lockers to prevent loosing stuff in the depths of the locker abyss. Port side seat locker is divided with a large general storage locker forward and what may become the propane locker in a smaller volume aft. Currently I am contemplating the motor throttle set up, considering using a remote throttle either on the seat locker side panel or on the mast tabernacle. I am planning on a 9.9 HP twin cylinder high thrust motor with power tilt.

Richard, I have been sailing a CS20 with a full battens (large powerful rig) for more than 10 years. Here are my thoughts: 1) In 15 to 20 knots of wind, how stable and or comfortable does the boat feel? Does it require on the second attention? Granted all boats must be sailed. The CS is comfortable and very fast in 15 knots. As the wind approaches 20 sailing becomes a bit more work managing the heeling, especially in the gusts. I keep the main sheet close at hand, and trim to control the heel, . I find the boat does not point fast when heeled over on her rail. Take a reef and the boat flattens out and speeds away. Unballasted boats in general require close attention in gusts when the wind is 18 plus knots. The CS is no different. 2) It was mentioned above that going to windward was wet, more important, how balanced and settled does the boat feel in 15 to 20 knots of wind. My boat balances well in a breeze. The cat ketch rig has a great advantage here versus a sloop, Taking a reef to keep the boat more flat makes a big difference in stability. I was out in 20 knots recently in 4 foot seas. Unreefed the boat was on the rail and threatened to capsize is some of the gusts and swell combinations. Easing the main sheet kept all under control, but the sail ended up fluttering a great deal. Spray was routinely over the boat as she drove fast into the waves. Once reefed the boat was very well behaved, and very stable. Being more flat there was much less spray, and the lower heel provided security as the winds and seas built further. 3) Driving into waves, 3-4 feet, does the boat flex or oil can in any way? I could feel my first Wayfarer flex as if being curled up when it drove into waves. It was a fiberglass Mk III. Also it would oil can. Both were irritating and slow. I don't find this to be a problem. My CS has a coat of 9 oz cloth on the outside, and strong tabbing on the interior to make a strong monoque construction. Pat attention to details when you build and you will have a strong stiff boat. 4) Sailing to windward is a matter of trim and balance. Downwind is always more interesting. A dinghy can feel light and unbalanced down wind. It can be unsettling and if the boat begins to death roll it can be a problem. There are ways to prevent this but it is still a somewhat nervous ride. That I want to avoid. How do the core sound boats feel off the wind? Down wind is a complete hoot! CS routinely do horizon jobs on other boats when broad or deep reaching, often with jaw dropping incredible speeds You will quickly learn to deep reach with both sailing drawing on the same side of the boat. Pull up your centerboard, flash up the sprit sail, and take off at full plane. Then get your initiation in the double digit boat speed club.The boat is stable and confident in all down wind angles. Another trick is running wing and wind. The unstayed rig allows both sails to go forward of abeam. Very fast, very stable. My wife and I intend to cruise and most likely alone. It is important for us to feel we have a boat that we can handle in the common conditions without feeling we are on edge constantly. I hope these questions make sense. I would very much like to sail on a CS boat. Unfortunately will miss the event at B&B in October for a Charity Regatta. I look forward to your responses. I think you will find the MK III with water ballast to be very solid in 15-20 knots. I have not sailed one in these conditions, but I know that just stepping on board I can feel a difference compared to my unballasted CS20.

Thanks Joe, I enjoyed that.

Howard, I strongly suggest running stringers the length of the sheer line. Noodle the bulkheads until the stringers are fair. Temprarily screw the side panels to the stringers. The stringers can be removed after the panels are set if you really want them gone.

Wasserboot, I recommend yes using stringers to get a fair boat. You will want a set at the chine and at the sheer line as a minimum.

Nice Peter. Now all she lacks is finishing up....

Generally it is preferred to put the water ballast in the center of the boat. A quarter turn access port mounted in the top of the ballast tank just above the waterline, allowing reach through access to a simple drain hole with a stopper will do the trick. It is important that the top of the ballast tank be as close to the waterline as possible to minimize sloshing of the water ballast.

Looks like fun. A fast boat with a good place to sleep is a fabulous combination.