Brent

How does one insert a picture into a forum discussion note? I tried pasting, but get an error message that file is to large. I havent figured out how to compress the photo. Second question: How does one link from a discussion thread to a note in the gallery section?

For the stringers that run from forward bulkhead to aft bulkhead along the inboard seat sides I used a permanent screw through the bulkhead to hold the stringer inplace while the epoxy fillet set. A backing block to help spread the load is a good idea, but I did not think of it. By the time the seat sides get filleted to hull, bulkhead, and stringer the load along this stringer is spread across a long area. These seat sides add a great deal of stiffness to the hull.

I am thinking a plywood and epoxy boat will be negatively buoyant...that is if the boat is filled with water it will sink. I haven't tested this, but get this impression from the density of plywood panels and epoxy resin. These expanded foams come in different densities. Usually the stiffer the foam sheets are heavier, therefore it takes more stiff foam to float a boat than the softer foams. Generally expanded sytrofoam sheets have a floatation capability of 40-60 lbs per cubuc foot. A gallon jug has a floation capability of 8.3 lbs. Maybe one of the nautical engineers amoung us could expound on how much floatation it takes to get the gunwales out of the water.

The CS20 plans call for a rectangular hatch that rides above deck level. Out of concern that this might catch the mizzen sheet and complicate standing on the aft deck during fishing, I am thinking of going with a hatch design flush with the deck...probably much like the seat compartment hatch in the plans. This will required building a somewhat elaborate system to drain water away from the hatch perimeter. Better ideas?

The dropped foredeck idea is a nice adaptation. The fun of building your own is playing with the design and building to suit. Like Joe, I am speaking as someone with a boat that does not yet have a deck on it. I agree that the deck is going to add some stiffness. I expect the foredeck could be lowered a bit and stiffness provided by using much larger inwales. The inwales would also help protect the above deck hull ply from damage. I am planning to store the anchor in a bracket attached to the forward side of the forward bulkhead. I want the anchor weight out of the very front of the bow.

A buddy has a Honda fourstroke 5 HP that pushes his Capri 22 (2100 lbs) with amazing ease. The boat does not plane of course, but gets close to hull speed easily. I am thinking that would be lots of HP for a CS 17 or 20. The motor is amazingly smooth and quiet. A significant concern to me is weight. The mass of these four stroke motors goes up fast, I think the 2 hp is about 27 lbs, the 5 hp about 60, and the 9.9 over 100 hp. The boat will SAIL best with less weight on the stern. The 2 hp has a advantage simply because it can be stored forward in the boat, and hung on the stern when needed. I measured the transom on my CS and came to the conclusion that a long shaft motor could be mounted higher away from the water and get better submersion when running. I find I frequently encounter situations with motor running and sails up, causing the boat to heel. With the boat heeled there is a chance of loosing cooling water flow to one of these expensive motors - Bummer. Hey, there is another advantage to the 2 HP which I think is air cooled.

I am building a core sound 20, but if you will allow I occassionaly check this forum for useful information. I would like to get a very smooth hull surface, but dont have a great deal of experience on the subject. I would like some input on how best to build up to that. I am thinking of using six or seven coats of epoxy something like this: *sealing coat of epoxy *epoxy thickened with microspheres/cabosil mix applied with notched trowel *sand *epoxy thickened with microspheres/cabosil mix applied with smooth trowel *sand *epoxy *epoxy with color tint *epoxy with color tint *sand with progressive papers What is your experience and recommendation?

Here is another option: World Panel Product 888 836 3379 www.worldpanel.com. I found they have several options for types of wood at different price levels. Pricing is reasonable and shipping costs were small compared to the total order. Caveat: at the end of the day I thougth this to be a good source, but ended up buying wood from someone else for convenience.

Chuck, I used the butt joint scheme in building my CS20. I can tell you the method produces a good quality joint. It is important however to get the boards well clamped together. I went ahead and screwed right through the marine ply in order to keep constant pressure on the joint (placing screws about every 8 " across the joint). The holes get filled later with a mix of epoxy and thickening agents...they will not be visible. But if it any consolation, I know how you feel about putting holes in an otherwise good boat hull. I too have concern for hanging a 6 hp motor on the stern. I am considering adding additional bracing using 2x6 lumber that spreads the stresses off the transom and onto the hull bottom and sides.

What do you think about putting a sail track on the bottom 3" mast section, then using a sleeve above this? The idea is to get the benefit of the track (ability to shorten sail/reef) without having to deal with the track all the way up the mast. Could maybe do the same thing by using a sleeve up high and lacing the lower sail section on. Thinking out loud...usually dangerous

I found it very helpful to screw the two hull halves together while butt joining the sheets and cutting the shapes. By planning ahead the screws could be placed so that they mark the stringer locations. Another tip for this stage while the sheets are tightly joined together is to use a plane to smooth out any irregularities in the cut line. A smooth fair edge will make a nice joint when it comes time to stitch and glue. Having the two hull halves exactly the same makes for a beatiful symetrical boat.

To perhaps add some additional perspective to the thoughtful comments already posted in this thread I would say that building a Core Sound boat is not a difficult task. It does however take a few simple skills. -Reading and Interpreting design drawings. The design by B&B is excellent. I have had to think carefully about how I was interpreting it. -Basic wood working skills - my boat is being built with power and hand tools common to any amateur wood shop. But building the boat has been an excuse for additions to my tool fleet -Patience. I spend a good deal of my time thinking through the next step. I keep remembering some advice from early in my shop skills training "measure twice, cut once". The epoxy skills may be a little intimidating to the novice, but actually it is not all that difficult. There are lots of good reference materials to help. And this forum seems to include a people who are willing to share their learnings along the way. Good Luck and Enjoy