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PeterP

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PeterP last won the day on October 30

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About PeterP

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  • Birthday January 1

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    Male
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    Greenville,NC
  • Interests
    Astronomy, backpacking, fly fishing

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  1. There you go. I had to do the same thing. Never a flat spot around when you need it -seems like. PeterP
  2. My P-28 is not a plywood boat but the hull is wood core- so essentially the same thing. My transducer came with a two part plastic fitting that was supposed to fit through a hole in the bottom of the boat. Holds the sending unit and screws together to make the assembly waterproof. I did not like that idea at all. What I did was to hole saw down to the outer glass skin, removed all the wood and epoxied a piece of PVC pipe into the hole. I then filled the bottom of the pipe with CLEAR epoxy to come back to the original hull thickness. You want clear to make sure there are no air bubbles. It's the air that degrades/kills the signal. After it cures fill the pipe with mineral oil, drop the sending unit in and put a PVC cap on and away you go. Your pipe needs to be just a smidgen bigger that your sending unit so the sender does not bounce around. It also needs to be totally full of oil. Again you don't want any air bubbles. Mine works really well and I have one less through hull to worry about. Good luck PeterP
  3. I used Amerlock 2/400 epoxy primer and Amercoat 450H two part polyurethane. Exactly same system I put on the boat. Got good mileage out of my paint cans that way. Not a marine paint as such but it is a GOOD stuff. Both were actually designed for metal application so the mast makes for a preferred application from manufacturer's point of view. Glass comes close second in my experience. Held up really well over 5 years. Sprayed the boat and rolled the masts. Installed hardware after painting, Used Tuffgell on screws. PeterP
  4. Alan, any news on the Fall Meet? PeterP

  5. Who knows how long the crack has been there and how much water got in. Make sure the plywood is sound without any dry rot along the edge. Think about the force a 17ft mast puts on the fore deck with every gust of wind and you'll understand why everything must be well fastened together. As for the trim piece: judging by the picture no exotic woods are called for. I would fill the rabbet with several layers of glass tape soaked with epoxy. Built up to the required thickness. I would still run boat nails say every 6" on BOTH sides of the original seam because you want to keep the edges together as well as helping them stick to the king plank. Nice thing about F/G is that it will not split like wood or ply could. PeterP
  6. If I'm seeing this right then there is a king plank under that crack and god only knows what kind of shape that rascal is in. You do what you need to but I would take my router and run a 3/4in wide rabbet 1/4in deep the length of the crack (half the thickness of your fore deck ply if it is 1/2 in). I would then sink a couple of flat bottom holes in the rabbet to the top of the king plank to see if it has been touched and to what degree. If it looks OK then drying and soaking with epoxy would be my next step. 3/4 in batten bedded in epoxy to cover the seam. I would make sure the deck is soundly epoxied and fastened to the king plank. Nails- that's what I like to use -nice 1in long boat nails. If your ply panels aren't solidly attached you may see the epoxy disappear real fast when you soak the seam. Just be ready and keep your eye on things and stop up the leak (s) on the backside if need be. Make sure to fill up all the voids if you have any. Once when I was faced with de-lamination I resorted to drilling a bunch of 1/8in holes and then -using a syringe- I forced unthickened epoxy into the void until it overflowed. Good luck PeterP
  7. Add a fat bungee cord to the down haul or a breakaway cleat. Don't try to plan for every possibility or you'll never leave the dock. Like Tom says experience comes from screwing up (and fixing stuff). PeterP
  8. It may be worth mentioning that the tenon grain should be orthogonal to the joint. Stronger that way. PeterP
  9. Put a floating tenon in the joint. Nice and fat - 1/2" by 2" +. Epoxied in. PeterP
  10. Sometime I read too fast. My first take was: You had you CS 20 for 50 years? How is that even possible? It wasn't until I read Don's post that I realized you had another Momma in your life. Congrats PeterP
  11. Ouch, I bet that water was cold still! Been there, running before 25 mile wind with the boat surfing at 7-8 and you think the fun will never end. In the excitement it is easy to forget the difference between apparent and true wind. To do a gibe in that kind of wind is not for the faint of heart and slow of hand but you learnt that already. Better luck next time PeterP
  12. Don , Gordy is/was a member on this forum. You should be able to send him a PM. Graham was going to pay him a visit last year on his trip out west last year I believe. He may be able to give you more info. PeterP
  13. Gordy used to live up there part of the year. He is a good hand and may enjoy the diversion. PeterP
  14. Thanks Ken, I will investigate. The 28 footer needs a bit more water to launch than your 17". I need close to 3ft of water so even at Graham's water level rules. PeterP
  15. I have a family get together in Charleston, SC next May and I thought -why not take Petrel down there. Any suggestions as to good launch facilities would be welcome. PeterP
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