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PeterP last won the day on June 23 2020

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About PeterP

  • Birthday January 1

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    Astronomy, backpacking, fly fishing

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  1. Don, I have always used Devoe polyurethane (379) and believe you me - I sympathize . Bear in mind that polyurethanes are moisture and temperature activated. In summer it can be a trial. Spraying always worked the best for me because it goes on fast and even. It may help to get your gear set up the night before ( including lights) and then get up at four in the morning, throw your paint together and go at it. If you use HVLP sprayer you may need to run your hose through bucket of ice to keep the air hose cool. The turbine has a tendency to heat up the air supply causing the paint to flash set and you'll get a nice orange peel or powder coat effect. Good luck PeterP
  2. I built both - 25 something years ago.
  3. I don't want to tell you stuff you may know already. On the face of it rolling paint is dead simple. But two part poly can throw you for a loop. It has eaten my rollers making them shed. It started to flash before I could roll it out adequately leaving perceptible stripes in high gloss finishes. Yes -spraying can be problematic too but think about this: last time you had your car in the body shop -did they roll the paint or spray it? PeterP
  4. If you plan on doing a fair bit of spraying then you could go for a good quality HVLP gun and build your own turbine using a vacuum cleaner blower. HVLP guns cut way down on over spray. Building your own will save you a good chunk of change. I did my gun (Fuji) close to thirty years ago. Still works great although less efficiently now that the cooling fan blades on the blower have a fair bit of paint built up on them. (Over spray) I'm thinking about buying a better rated blower - 12 psi+. Up from 9 psi. Some things I definitely prefer to spray. Certainly when it comes to large complicated items. But be aware of the set up time -it can eat you up. I can spray one side of my 28' in about an hour. When I tried to re-coat last time with a roller it didn't come out right. I had to go back and buff out a lot of roller edge lines. It ended up being very time consuming. PeterP
  5. I have used it on rudder tips and center boards. I don't see why it would not work on small boat keels. I use any old line that's not good enough for first line work on a sail boat anymore. My favorite is a double braid dacron. Soaks up epoxy well and when scuffed in grounding the fuzz can be slicked down quickly. Stay away from kevlar if you can. Impossible to finish slick. Good luck PeterP
  6. Don, I sent you a PM. Peter
  7. I have sitka spruce sitting in the garage. Six pieces left over from the last boat I built. 2x6x16ft. Five bucks a board ft. You pick up in Greenville,NC. I'm cleaning up.PeterP
  8. Can't wait for them to get into the Southern ocean. Cape of Good Hope, Cape Leeuwin, Cape Horn. It'll be interestin to see what speeds they can squeeze out of those foillers in those latitudes and the fierce competitive atmosphere they are in. This is a good way to do the Roaring Forties I guess - in my easy chair with three hot meals a day guarantied whether I need them or not. Let's GO!
  9. If you are like me -sitting around doing nothing you may be interested in watching the ultimate sailboat race. It is in French but don't let that discourage you. The site is actually is very intuitive once you get on it and you only need about four words to be able to decipher it. Vitesse-speed, Cap-course, Distance parcourue - distance covered, D. restante - d. to finish. Noeud is knot in English. The weather overlay is where the fun comes in - you can see how they play the winds to get those incredible times - Hugo Bass is doing 21 knots in 11knot wind in 6ft (2m) seas as I'm writing this. Wow! https://www.vendeeglobe.org/fr/cartographie
  10. You don't really need any French for this. Just watch the clips of boats hammering along at 35 knots. Mesmerizing. PeterP https://www.lefigaro.fr/fig-data/vendee-globe/
  11. Get a nice Stanley block plane and a nice Hock iron for it since the factory iron is pretty much worthless. Block plane will be useful for endless number of trim jobs. Plywood edges etc. Good for shaping stringers, gunnels etc. Since you have a router think about getting a couple of round over bits. 1/4 in and 3/8 in for starters. Finally, don't forget a box of drywall screws. Frankly , I don't know how people ever managed to build boats without those. Good luck PeterP
  12. Matt, pull out your boat plans. On the side elevation sheet draw a line from the top of the bow all the way across the top of the transom. Parallel to the waterline. Draw a vertical from the transom to intersect you line. You will need a scale/ architect ruler to read off that distance and translate it into real inches and fractions. Clamp a vertical stick to the transom and mark that measurement on it. Grab a piece of string and pull it tight between the mark you just made and the tip of the bow. Hang a bubble level in the middle of the string and start fiddling with the trailer. You may want to figure out your water line at the same time. Good luck PeterP
  13. Mark just beat me to it. His is a good way of doing it. Your thinking of epoxying the eye in works but if you need to take that thing out later it'll be work. Making the epoxy bushing takes time upfront because have to drill the same hole twice. In fact if you aren't careful and let your drill bit wander you could be drilling that final whole more than once. I have done that. PeterP
  14. With your stem taped inside and outside you don't need anymore glass tape there. Glassing the top of the backing block on the other hand provides additional compressive strength and ensures water resistance. Lapping that glass onto the ply of the hull helps distribute the stress load. Moisture ingress is a potential problem here. Drilling oversize holes and making epoxy bushings before putting the eye in is an excellent solution. PeterP
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