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PeterP last won the day on June 23

PeterP had the most liked content!

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About PeterP

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  • Birthday January 1

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    Astronomy, backpacking, fly fishing

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  1. Mark just beat me to it. His is a good way of doing it. Your thinking of epoxying the eye in works but if you need to take that thing out later it'll be work. Making the epoxy bushing takes time upfront because have to drill the same hole twice. In fact if you aren't careful and let your drill bit wander you could be drilling that final whole more than once. I have done that. PeterP
  2. With your stem taped inside and outside you don't need anymore glass tape there. Glassing the top of the backing block on the other hand provides additional compressive strength and ensures water resistance. Lapping that glass onto the ply of the hull helps distribute the stress load. Moisture ingress is a potential problem here. Drilling oversize holes and making epoxy bushings before putting the eye in is an excellent solution. PeterP
  3. I love mine. I've had Raspberry 3B with 7in screen and BU 353 puck GPS for about 4 years. Last year I bought the 4 with 2GB RAM and 10 in screen. So I now have a redundant system. I don't know what AIS receiver you have - I use my Standard Horizon VHF to generate AIS signal for the Raspberry. But honestly, for my kind of sailing around here -AIS is not that important. I saw it in action only twice on a sail to Ocracoke. The thing beeped me as we were coming up to the car ferry and then it beeped me again for a sand barge. Made for very exciting day on the water. Open CPN is now a stand alone program that used to be part of Navigatrix which is something you may want to look into for your long distance cruising plans. By the way - wife is still onto me about starting a beehive. Can you keep bees on a boat I wonder? Cheers PeterP
  4. I have not done a 12 but I built a 10 a while back. This is how I would do it: you have your dagger board I presume. Build the case dry and clamp/ screw it together to see how how the board works inside. An eight of an inch clearance sounds OK but 3/16 would be something I would personally go for. Whatever Graham recommends. When you're happy take it all apart. You will have two ply faces and two posts. Glass both plywood (entire) panels on what will be the inside face. Glass the inner face of your posts. Even 2oz cloth fully coated is going to be a whole lot tougher than neat epoxy. With 4 oz you will never have to worry about the inside. Flood coat the glass. Cure it and try everything for fit one more time. Scuff the glass where the posts will go onto the plywood. Glue the posts down on one panel. Run a nice fillet.Cure it. Glue the other panel on. Fillet the last joints with a long stick and you are done. Good luck PeterP
  5. My heart goes out to your friend. If I lived closer he could have my Spindrift. I also have one or two boats too many. Is there any other way he can be helped? PeterP
  6. There you go. I had to do the same thing. Never a flat spot around when you need it -seems like. PeterP
  7. My P-28 is not a plywood boat but the hull is wood core- so essentially the same thing. My transducer came with a two part plastic fitting that was supposed to fit through a hole in the bottom of the boat. Holds the sending unit and screws together to make the assembly waterproof. I did not like that idea at all. What I did was to hole saw down to the outer glass skin, removed all the wood and epoxied a piece of PVC pipe into the hole. I then filled the bottom of the pipe with CLEAR epoxy to come back to the original hull thickness. You want clear to make sure there are no air bubbles. It's the air that degrades/kills the signal. After it cures fill the pipe with mineral oil, drop the sending unit in and put a PVC cap on and away you go. Your pipe needs to be just a smidgen bigger that your sending unit so the sender does not bounce around. It also needs to be totally full of oil. Again you don't want any air bubbles. Mine works really well and I have one less through hull to worry about. Good luck PeterP
  8. I used Amerlock 2/400 epoxy primer and Amercoat 450H two part polyurethane. Exactly same system I put on the boat. Got good mileage out of my paint cans that way. Not a marine paint as such but it is a GOOD stuff. Both were actually designed for metal application so the mast makes for a preferred application from manufacturer's point of view. Glass comes close second in my experience. Held up really well over 5 years. Sprayed the boat and rolled the masts. Installed hardware after painting, Used Tuffgell on screws. PeterP
  9. Alan, any news on the Fall Meet? PeterP

  10. Who knows how long the crack has been there and how much water got in. Make sure the plywood is sound without any dry rot along the edge. Think about the force a 17ft mast puts on the fore deck with every gust of wind and you'll understand why everything must be well fastened together. As for the trim piece: judging by the picture no exotic woods are called for. I would fill the rabbet with several layers of glass tape soaked with epoxy. Built up to the required thickness. I would still run boat nails say every 6" on BOTH sides of the original seam because you want to keep the edges together as well as helping them stick to the king plank. Nice thing about F/G is that it will not split like wood or ply could. PeterP
  11. If I'm seeing this right then there is a king plank under that crack and god only knows what kind of shape that rascal is in. You do what you need to but I would take my router and run a 3/4in wide rabbet 1/4in deep the length of the crack (half the thickness of your fore deck ply if it is 1/2 in). I would then sink a couple of flat bottom holes in the rabbet to the top of the king plank to see if it has been touched and to what degree. If it looks OK then drying and soaking with epoxy would be my next step. 3/4 in batten bedded in epoxy to cover the seam. I would make sure the deck is soundly epoxied and fastened to the king plank. Nails- that's what I like to use -nice 1in long boat nails. If your ply panels aren't solidly attached you may see the epoxy disappear real fast when you soak the seam. Just be ready and keep your eye on things and stop up the leak (s) on the backside if need be. Make sure to fill up all the voids if you have any. Once when I was faced with de-lamination I resorted to drilling a bunch of 1/8in holes and then -using a syringe- I forced unthickened epoxy into the void until it overflowed. Good luck PeterP
  12. Add a fat bungee cord to the down haul or a breakaway cleat. Don't try to plan for every possibility or you'll never leave the dock. Like Tom says experience comes from screwing up (and fixing stuff). PeterP
  13. It may be worth mentioning that the tenon grain should be orthogonal to the joint. Stronger that way. PeterP
  14. Put a floating tenon in the joint. Nice and fat - 1/2" by 2" +. Epoxied in. PeterP
  15. Sometime I read too fast. My first take was: You had you CS 20 for 50 years? How is that even possible? It wasn't until I read Don's post that I realized you had another Momma in your life. Congrats PeterP
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