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PeterP

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PeterP last won the day on June 23 2020

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About PeterP

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday January 1

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Greenville,NC
  • Interests
    Astronomy, backpacking, fly fishing

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  1. Can't wait for them to get into the Southern ocean. Cape of Good Hope, Cape Leeuwin, Cape Horn. It'll be interestin to see what speeds they can squeeze out of those foillers in those latitudes and the fierce competitive atmosphere they are in. This is a good way to do the Roaring Forties I guess - in my easy chair with three hot meals a day guarantied whether I need them or not. Let's GO!
  2. If you are like me -sitting around doing nothing you may be interested in watching the ultimate sailboat race. It is in French but don't let that discourage you. The site is actually is very intuitive once you get on it and you only need about four words to be able to decipher it. Vitesse-speed, Cap-course, Distance parcourue - distance covered, D. restante - d. to finish. Noeud is knot in English. The weather overlay is where the fun comes in - you can see how they play the winds to get those incredible times - Hugo Bass is doing 21 knots in 11knot wind in 6ft (2m) seas as I'm writing this. W
  3. You don't really need any French for this. Just watch the clips of boats hammering along at 35 knots. Mesmerizing. PeterP https://www.lefigaro.fr/fig-data/vendee-globe/
  4. Get a nice Stanley block plane and a nice Hock iron for it since the factory iron is pretty much worthless. Block plane will be useful for endless number of trim jobs. Plywood edges etc. Good for shaping stringers, gunnels etc. Since you have a router think about getting a couple of round over bits. 1/4 in and 3/8 in for starters. Finally, don't forget a box of drywall screws. Frankly , I don't know how people ever managed to build boats without those. Good luck PeterP
  5. Matt, pull out your boat plans. On the side elevation sheet draw a line from the top of the bow all the way across the top of the transom. Parallel to the waterline. Draw a vertical from the transom to intersect you line. You will need a scale/ architect ruler to read off that distance and translate it into real inches and fractions. Clamp a vertical stick to the transom and mark that measurement on it. Grab a piece of string and pull it tight between the mark you just made and the tip of the bow. Hang a bubble level in the middle of the string and start fiddling with the trailer. You may wan
  6. Mark just beat me to it. His is a good way of doing it. Your thinking of epoxying the eye in works but if you need to take that thing out later it'll be work. Making the epoxy bushing takes time upfront because have to drill the same hole twice. In fact if you aren't careful and let your drill bit wander you could be drilling that final whole more than once. I have done that. PeterP
  7. With your stem taped inside and outside you don't need anymore glass tape there. Glassing the top of the backing block on the other hand provides additional compressive strength and ensures water resistance. Lapping that glass onto the ply of the hull helps distribute the stress load. Moisture ingress is a potential problem here. Drilling oversize holes and making epoxy bushings before putting the eye in is an excellent solution. PeterP
  8. I love mine. I've had Raspberry 3B with 7in screen and BU 353 puck GPS for about 4 years. Last year I bought the 4 with 2GB RAM and 10 in screen. So I now have a redundant system. I don't know what AIS receiver you have - I use my Standard Horizon VHF to generate AIS signal for the Raspberry. But honestly, for my kind of sailing around here -AIS is not that important. I saw it in action only twice on a sail to Ocracoke. The thing beeped me as we were coming up to the car ferry and then it beeped me again for a sand barge. Made for very exciting day on the water. Open CPN is now a stand alone p
  9. I have not done a 12 but I built a 10 a while back. This is how I would do it: you have your dagger board I presume. Build the case dry and clamp/ screw it together to see how how the board works inside. An eight of an inch clearance sounds OK but 3/16 would be something I would personally go for. Whatever Graham recommends. When you're happy take it all apart. You will have two ply faces and two posts. Glass both plywood (entire) panels on what will be the inside face. Glass the inner face of your posts. Even 2oz cloth fully coated is going to be a whole lot tougher than neat epoxy. With
  10. My heart goes out to your friend. If I lived closer he could have my Spindrift. I also have one or two boats too many. Is there any other way he can be helped? PeterP
  11. There you go. I had to do the same thing. Never a flat spot around when you need it -seems like. PeterP
  12. My P-28 is not a plywood boat but the hull is wood core- so essentially the same thing. My transducer came with a two part plastic fitting that was supposed to fit through a hole in the bottom of the boat. Holds the sending unit and screws together to make the assembly waterproof. I did not like that idea at all. What I did was to hole saw down to the outer glass skin, removed all the wood and epoxied a piece of PVC pipe into the hole. I then filled the bottom of the pipe with CLEAR epoxy to come back to the original hull thickness. You want clear to make sure there are no air bubbles. It's t
  13. I used Amerlock 2/400 epoxy primer and Amercoat 450H two part polyurethane. Exactly same system I put on the boat. Got good mileage out of my paint cans that way. Not a marine paint as such but it is a GOOD stuff. Both were actually designed for metal application so the mast makes for a preferred application from manufacturer's point of view. Glass comes close second in my experience. Held up really well over 5 years. Sprayed the boat and rolled the masts. Installed hardware after painting, Used Tuffgell on screws. PeterP
  14. Alan, any news on the Fall Meet? PeterP

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