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acreew

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acreew last won the day on April 17 2018

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  1. Thank you Graham, I will look for the cross section in the plans and also dry fit some planks to get a better idea. I will be in touch. Thanks again. Will
  2. Hello all, I have dry fitted the last stringer on the sheer clamp (previous two were already installed.) There is a significant at least 1/4 inch overlap Of the recently added stringer. The overlap occurs mostly at the forward temporary frame and forward bulkhead. Prior to gluing the stringer in place I wanted to get your input as to whether this is to be expected or how to fix this issue. The new stringer Is touching all internal frames. Thank you in advance for any help you can offer. Well
  3. Thank you Oyster for the very detailed response. I do plan on getting the raptor gun and staples. Below is the section of the dutch ob 20 thread talking about adding glass to the planking: Before I put the plywood on the hull, I provided the inside with a thin layer of glass fabric (100 gr/ m). So the bodum is from the inside out glass and 9 mm plywood The side is made of two layers of 4 mm plywood with a layer of glass on the inside of each layer
  4. Hello everyone, I purchased a partially completed OB20 hull and am pondering next steps. Read on build thread (Dutch OB20) where the builder apparently alternated glass between the planks (glass/plank/glass/plank) when planking the sides. (tried to contact Jan directly but did not hear back) 1) is this advised? What would be the benefit? 2) What is the best way to accomplish? (it would seem that you would glass the plank material prior to cutting, but not sure if this would impact how the planks would conform to the shape of the hull, etc. etc...) Thank you in advance for any thoughts. Will
  5. Hello Suzanne, I am a B and B builder in Lewisville, NC. Very interested if your OB20 project is still available. Please let me know. Thanks, Will 336-978-3938 acreew@gmail.com
  6. Thank you Hirilonde and everyone for your help. I appreciate it.
  7. Thank you.... it is epoxy (west marine I think). If we were to tackle this does all of the paint need to be removed? Don’t know the exact paint but I think it is a 1 part marine paint
  8. Hello all, helped a friend build this skiff. He covered in 12 oz cloth with no attempts at smoothing/fairing. Now he is considering redoing. How would you recommend doing this? E.g., would we need to re glass after smoothing/fairing... thank you for any thoughts.
  9. I did what you did....except with awlgrip products and was all roll and tip. Paint has done well for approx. 3 years. Chips/rubs off in high friction areas (mast tube opening/bottom). Also bubbles around screws etc that were not initially sealed. I put on sail track after painting. Would not paint, as that would potentially affect the ease of hoisting the sails. I have limited experience...only my opinion. Will
  10. Also connect sail on outside. Have used a dog bone for attaching sail... has been quick/easy
  11. I have the bungee, but not the breakaway cleat....will add that. Thanks to everyone who responded. Very helpful!
  12. Thank you for the replies. One thought.....would the addition of floating tenons make the joint so strong that it would not fail in the same way as this time. Specifically and unfortunately, this may happen again....as it worked out...the localized damage to the centerboard was a nice surprise. Would not want to make damage to another part of the boat (e.g., centerboard case, etc.) more likely with an overzealous repair. Are these concerns realistic? Thank you again, Will
  13. Pulled into busy boat ramp ... deep water .... rushing ... forgot to raise centerboard... cranked as hard as I could and eventually the boat came on, unfortunately without the center board in one piece. The result is what you see in the pictures below. On the positive side there was no other damage other than the top splitting off of the Center board, amazing if this was planned for/designed for in advance. Idiots like myself are very thankful if that is the case. Anyway, no other damage can be detected. All rigging for the center board is exactly as it was. I intend to simply epoxy the top of the centerboard back on. Would appreciate any suggestions or insights On how to make this a secure/ lasting repair. thank you, will
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