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Everything posted by Don Silsbe
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I like to minimize the amount of metal on my boats. I like to think that the cringle at the reef point is sufficient for the purpose. No clipping is necessary. The only metal I intend to have on my sprits will be the cheek blocks for reefing, and the clam cleats. Stay tuned to my refurb thread on this forum. By the way, I always reserve the right to be wrong. What I like about wooden boats is the ability to try different things, using filler and paint to erase bad ideas.
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I removed the loops on the leech of my sails (at the reef points). I plan to change to the modern slab reefing setup, once I get the centerboard taken care of. I’ll probably go to the messabout with single reefs and peeling paint. Time will tell. I’ll keep you posted on my refurb. thread.
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Two winters ago, I was privileged to be loaned PadrePoint’s Avocet for some winter cruising in Florida. This is how he and I set the boat up and furled the sails for the evening.
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When I re-bed my keel strip, I will drill out the holes oversized, and fill them with epoxy thickened with WEST 404 filler. Then, I’ll screw stainless steel screws into that without any goop.
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Taking suggestions--paint or varnish options and color schemes
Don Silsbe replied to Andy B's topic in B & B Yachts Forum
You’re scaring me with that last comment, Andy! LOL When I repaint Windependent, after the Messabout, I will do something along these lines. Unfortunately, she currently had NO brightwork, which breaks my heart. Some brightwork is good to have. I had a lot on Local Honey. Since she was covered with an opaque tarp, I never had a problem with peeling varnish. Every year or three I’d give her two fresh coats. That was it. Nowadays I use only two-part polyurethane for my boats. One-part poly just isn’t as durable against abrasion & scratches. Norkan in Warren, MI carries it. Don’t believe the web site: https://www.norkan.com/Norkan_Store/search/results?search_in_description=1&zenid=9loa7b2a5q6sjq7kdhu9r7iuu5&keyword=Devoe+379 They are not sold out. Call George Spiteri, and he will mix you up what you need. George Spiteri Norkan by Jon-Don 25200 East Street Warren, MI 48089 586-350-2340 direct 313-720-8565 mobile -
What a project!!! I will be building alongside you, vicariously. I have several non-related questions. Please email me . Donsilsbe@gmail.com.
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Nice job! Once the epoxy cures, you may remove the screws and fill the holes with epoxy. Their job is done. From now on, they only serve as a way for water to seep in and cause rot.
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I wonder when this will be off the drawing board and into production. I might need this on mine, when I add the tabernacle.
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@Andy B— You are spot on with that assessment. These guys are awesome! I just hope I can get this feature baked into my tabernacle installation.
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@Dnjost— your c/b looks like mine did. Now, I need to reinstall it, once I get home from my travels.
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@Hirilonde—That thought has definitely crossed my mind. I prefer a tilt-up rudder anyway. Dnjost is also right. With good hatch floatation seals and a masthead float, the area should be dry, except of rain seepage. (And there has been a little of that.). Not sure what I’ll get done before the messabout back there. Perhaps a makeshift seal and swing that rudder. Not an easy task, as it is glued to the rudder. Guess I’m gonna be Rambo with the chainsaw, power planer, and belt sander!
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Anyone ever put a 20hp on a Core Sound 17
Don Silsbe replied to fpjeepy05's topic in B & B Yachts Forum
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Why paint a bilge which will never see the light of day?
Don Silsbe replied to Bill-OC24's topic in B & B Yachts Forum
I agree, with one exception. A white bilge makes it easier to find things, if you do have access to that area. -
Anyone ever put a 20hp on a Core Sound 17
Don Silsbe replied to fpjeepy05's topic in B & B Yachts Forum
I agree with you about flat-bottom boats. They pound when hitting waves. I thought the Jessy had a V-hull entry with a small amount of deadrise at the transom. This photo of a Jessy 17 showing that it has a V-hull, not a flat bottom. The specs state that this angle is 10 degrees. The main difference between a powerboat and a sailboat hull is the lack of rocker aft of center on a powerboat. Ideally, on a powerboat, it goes straight back. Draw a straight line along the bottom, from the mizzen going aft. This line, or a little deeper at the transom, would be your resulting elevation of the bow. It would be deeper at the transom because of the weight of the motor and skipper, and also the less buoyancy of the deadrise at the transom. I believe that one of the reasons Graham and Allen have shown a center console is to move the skipper’s weight forward. I suggest digging a little deeper into the Jessy, and also borrowing a 10 or 15, and slapping it on the transom of your CS17. Armchair discussions are only worth so much, especially when our minds are made up on the subject. -
@Andy B— The Core Sound mark 3’s have a self-draining cockpit, and those are the drains. The mark 1’s cockpit sole is also the hull’s bottom. What I plan to do is drill some drain holes into the bull’s bottom to let the water out. If that doesn’t work, ;-), I’ll drill two holes on the vertical face of the lazarette on either side of the keel batten. This will allow water from the lazarette to escape, rather than accumulate. Yes, I will dab some epoxy on the raw edges of the holes, to seal them.
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As far as the lazarette is concerned, I’m leaning towards filling in the hole where the plastic hatch is, and simply having a scuttle hole on the vertical face, like PadrePoint did on his CS15. Todd Stein made a lovely hatch cover for his vertical face, but I’m not sure that it is necessary. Comments? Regarding sealants, I’m in a quandary regarding the boarding ladder installation. I’ve purchased a stowing ladder like I had on my Bay River Skiff. Since it is designed for a transom with a 15 degree pitch, I’ll make a 15 degree wedge out of Starboard. This will be close to the waterline. Will butyl tape work? Will it compress enough to give me a pretty, tight fit? Hirilonde advises against polysulfide. What to do?
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I always considered Wet Edge to be nearly identical to Britesides, chemically speaking. If you are still in doubt, I can run it by a friend of mine who’s a chemist. I believe they are both alkyd enamels fortified with polyurethane. According to the internet, Britesides is still available. I bought five quarts of it over last winter and spring. I prefer it over Wet Edge because of its higher level of gloss. I don’t use it on my boats because it is not as durable as what I’m currently using on my boats. I plan to repaint my Core Sound 17 with Devthane 379, which is a two-part polyurethane. If that blisters, which I doubt, I’ll switch to a new technology slick bottom paint. I could use that now, but I have already purchased two gallons of Devthane for this project. I wonder what B&B used on Carlita, when they repainted her before the EC.
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If you’re like me, I usually ignore the sentence on topcoat paints that state “Only for use above the waterline.” Just for kicks, I wrote Interlux for an explanation. They said: “Brightside or any above the waterline paint will not work below the waterline, a few days and it will start getting water blisters. Topcoats paints are not made to be submerged under water. If you use your boat today and it goes out of the water today usually it will be ok, any longer periods of time it could start to blister.” If you sail off a trailer, looks like we’re OK. But maybe I need to rethink my strategy in certain situations.
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Looks good. And bowlines are fine. If they are super tight, you can trim back the tail a bit.
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@Hirilonde I see your point. My comments were based on when I was using ring oarlocks on my rowing skiff, before I went to the 9.5’ sculls. When trailering, the ring oarlocks would slide all over the place, banging up paint. Furthermore, I would grease my leathers before each row. This would transfer to the oarlocks, leaving a black residue in weird places. The Gaco locks don’t require lubrication. The thole pin comments were to give Bryan all the options. Since that option is a no-lock option, it is the lowest weight and simplest of all. I guess it all depends on how often you think you’ll need to use the oars. If they are used infrequently, then maybe thole pins are the way to go. In fact, I’m thinking about trying them on my Core Sound 17. My sails are my primary means of propulsion. My Suzuki 2.5 is my second means. The oars are #3. As such, maybe the thole pins are appropriate. I plan to test this theory next year.
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Thank you. I’ll pass the news along.
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My sister-in-law is starting to look at flights for this weekend. Is any confirmation forthcoming?
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I’m sipping my morning coffee, and thinking outside the box a little. When I was at the Mystic Seaport Maritime Museum, I rowed several skiffs at the small boat dock. They had a variety of oarlocks on them, which expanded my thinking on the subject. Specifically, some used thole pins instead of oarlocks. All you really need is a pin to resist your forward pull, and maybe something to keep the oar near the pin on the return stroke. The latter can either be another pin or a loop of cord as shown in this sketch. It worked surprisingly well. The pins could/should be removable, at least on a Spindrift. The pins below are expensive. If you have a machinist friend, (s)he could turn you out a pair from brass, bronze, or stainless. To try out the concept, you could use some long bolts with a nylock stopper nut about 2” up from the bottom. Long term, the bolt’s threads would gall up the inside of the hole. A hardwood dowel might also work. As I recall, the ((fixed) pins on the skiff at Mystic were made of wood. Maybe that’s the cheapest way to try it out.
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Tabernacle for CS 20 Main Mast -- Any Thoughts?
Don Silsbe replied to Reacher's topic in B & B Yachts Forum
Reacher— I don’t think it’s necessary on the 17. I had no difficulty stepping the mizzen on PadrePointe’s 17.3. A 20 might be a bit more difficult, though. Stepping the main is a bit more precarious, though. I might change my mind in a few years, though. -
Bryan— Allow me to make a suggestion regarding the installation of your gudgeons. I’ve created undue friction in mine because of misalignment. The way to prevent this is in the order in which you install them. I suggest: 1. Attach both pintles to the rudder. 2. Attach the top gudgeon to the transom. 3. Insert the rudder onto the top gudgeon. 4. Put the bottom gudgeon on the pintle to determine where to drill the gudgeon attachment holes. 5. Remove the rudder and attach the bottom gudgeon.