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Don Silsbe

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Everything posted by Don Silsbe

  1. Here’s my fix. I believe it will work.
  2. I believe it is from a bending load. This bow roller puts a downward load on the two verticals. This in turn tries to bend the 2x10 over the channel. I happen to have an aluminum plate that will be slipped in between the wood and the trailer. This will transfer the load from the vertical walls directly to the trailer. I’ll take a photo when I’m done.
  3. Uh-oh! Guess I nee a little reinforcement.
  4. I’m about to order a masthead float for my Bay River Skiff. Alan is working up a version that does not include the Starboard fittings. This is because the top section of my mast is solid wood. I will be screwing it to the front of the mast. Not sure if I’ll make the whole thing removable, or leave the metal tube on the mast. I could embed some threaded brass inserts into the wood. The same could be done on an aluminum mast with nutserts. While switching from my old painted trailer to a new galvanized one yesterday, I did a capsize test at the ramp. (I finally got to be a Ramp Hog, along with all the rednecks who have been doing this to me these many years.) Anyway, I got to prove to myself that the seat tanks actually do work. Time to get a masthead float.
  5. I know that I’m touching Superman’s cape with this suggestion, but… When I installed the B&B hatches into my rowing skiff, I used these plastic hinges. They have been in use for over a year now, and get cycled all the time.
  6. @Randy Jones— You must have the wrong person. I only run one battery, and charge it at home or at the campsite at the end of the day.9
  7. A good old boatbuilding/sailing friend of mine weighed anchor today, and crossed over the bar. Rest in peace, Don Rausch, and smooth sailing. He introduced me to B&B’s boats, and is responsible for my attending the messabouts. He was a great spinner of yarns, mostly true. And he taught me a lot about boatbuilding. He’ll be missed.
  8. I am aware of the resistance generated when using small wire over long runs. All my long extension cords are 12 ga. The jumper cable I’m using is a larger diameter wire than the feed wire that is on the motors. I bought a long, heavy-gage set of jumper cables, cut them in half, spliced one half to my transom mount motor (35# thrust), and the other to the bow mount motor I use when in fishing mode. While I was at it, I spliced in a standard 12volt power socket to run accessories. I use the 35# motor on my Two Paw 8, by the way.
  9. @Steve W— Thanks for the link. The ramps here in the NC foothills are more shallow, so I usually dunk about 1/2 of the trailer. Also, this year I’m planning to do a lot more coastal cruising. My painted trailer has been dunked in salt every year (except for 2020) into the Bay River, and is showing quite a bit of rust. Time to go galvanized! Can’t wait to read your thread.
  10. Ted, Steve makes some very good points. This type of sail is a sort of cross between a spinnaker and a jib. The material is super light, like a spinnaker, but it is cut “sort of” like a jib. I don’t see why you couldn’t play around with the concept using one of the jibs. But a real staysail would be much better, once you get past the experimental stage. For me on my small lakes, a staysail would be a nuisance. They are only for extended runs on certain points of sail. I need to change course frequently, and this sail does not accommodate frequent changes. Please note that I always reserve the right to be wrong; this is just my opinion.
  11. @Randy Jones— That’s clever! I also submerge my trailer. Now that I think about it, I only need a roller or two up forward. The rest of the keel weight could rest on a bunk of some sort. I’ve noticed with my current trailer, that the paint on the keel has worn off at at least one of the rollers. I don’t have hollowback on my keel, and think I need to rectify that.
  12. I guess the bigger question is if this roller system is necessary on a skiff. I see that Alan Stewart used three or four rollers on the trailer for the Core Sound 15 he built. What do most core Sound 15’s and 17 Mark 1’s use?
  13. I’m upgrading to a galvanized trailer this year. I would like to consider adding a central roller system to it, but I can’t find Graham’s post on how he did his. I’m wondering about details like how you handle the boat’s rocker into the design (for my Bay River Skiff), and how the rollers are attached to the wooden framework.
  14. As far as cable is concerned, I bought a long set of jumper cables, and cut the clamps off of one end. On that end, I spliced the cable to my motor’s feed connections. I now have a very long power cable with very handy attachment clamps at the battery end.
  15. When I carry my Optima battery, it is on the sole, just forward of the middle seat, on the larger of the two sides. This places the weight where it won’t affect sail trim.
  16. Some time ago, those of us having weighted centerboards were having a discussion. We were talking about the various ways of limiting travel, if/when our boats turned turtle. In other words, how to keep the board from crashing through the c/b trunk. Since I’m doing a little spring work on my boat, I was able to photograph the wooden stop I’ve made for mine. It is made of White Oak, and is held in place with eight stainless screws. It all comes to rest (vertically) on the center seat, if/when the turtle arrives. I had a hard time explaining it before. Thought these photos would help.
  17. OK, I’m pretty much done, except for a few tweaks. I’m considering this a prototype, which I will use for this season. I will probably try different things on this tent throughout the year. But it will do for my upcoming event. I am joining the WCTSS (West Coast Trailer Sailing Squadron (Florida)) on their weekend trip to Cayo Costa State Park north of Fr. Meyers, FL next weekend. One thing I’ve discovered is that it is too low. There is no headroom. I wanted to keep a low profile, so as not to adversely affect riding at anchor. But this will not do! Also, I shied away from including zippers, due to lack of experience sewing them. I think I need to get over that. But ingress/egress is going to be nasty with this design. If you have any other observations or suggestions, please share them. It will be interesting to see how this 1.1 ounce coated rip-stop nylon fabric performs. Coated Oxford cloth is a lot more bulky, and space is limited on my boat.
  18. I thought that was you in that raid video. Nice looking boat!
  19. @musicmanx2—I’m still able to come visit on or about March 14th. If you’re interested, email me at donsilsbe@gmail.com.
  20. I agree with Hirilonde. Given the regional variation in environmental regulations, your best best for anti-fouling paint is your local chandlery. I wonder if the marine life varies from region to region enough to require this variation.
  21. I epoxied some fiberglass screen material onto my floorboards. It worked like a champ! Now, I have a pretty nonskid surface with a regular pattern.
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