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Don Silsbe

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Everything posted by Don Silsbe

  1. I’m upgrading to a galvanized trailer this year. I would like to consider adding a central roller system to it, but I can’t find Graham’s post on how he did his. I’m wondering about details like how you handle the boat’s rocker into the design (for my Bay River Skiff), and how the rollers are attached to the wooden framework.
  2. As far as cable is concerned, I bought a long set of jumper cables, and cut the clamps off of one end. On that end, I spliced the cable to my motor’s feed connections. I now have a very long power cable with very handy attachment clamps at the battery end.
  3. When I carry my Optima battery, it is on the sole, just forward of the middle seat, on the larger of the two sides. This places the weight where it won’t affect sail trim.
  4. Some time ago, those of us having weighted centerboards were having a discussion. We were talking about the various ways of limiting travel, if/when our boats turned turtle. In other words, how to keep the board from crashing through the c/b trunk. Since I’m doing a little spring work on my boat, I was able to photograph the wooden stop I’ve made for mine. It is made of White Oak, and is held in place with eight stainless screws. It all comes to rest (vertically) on the center seat, if/when the turtle arrives. I had a hard time explaining it before. Thought these photos would help.
  5. OK, I’m pretty much done, except for a few tweaks. I’m considering this a prototype, which I will use for this season. I will probably try different things on this tent throughout the year. But it will do for my upcoming event. I am joining the WCTSS (West Coast Trailer Sailing Squadron (Florida)) on their weekend trip to Cayo Costa State Park north of Fr. Meyers, FL next weekend. One thing I’ve discovered is that it is too low. There is no headroom. I wanted to keep a low profile, so as not to adversely affect riding at anchor. But this will not do! Also, I shied away from including zippers, due to lack of experience sewing them. I think I need to get over that. But ingress/egress is going to be nasty with this design. If you have any other observations or suggestions, please share them. It will be interesting to see how this 1.1 ounce coated rip-stop nylon fabric performs. Coated Oxford cloth is a lot more bulky, and space is limited on my boat.
  6. I thought that was you in that raid video. Nice looking boat!
  7. @musicmanx2—I’m still able to come visit on or about March 14th. If you’re interested, email me at donsilsbe@gmail.com.
  8. I agree with Hirilonde. Given the regional variation in environmental regulations, your best best for anti-fouling paint is your local chandlery. I wonder if the marine life varies from region to region enough to require this variation.
  9. I epoxied some fiberglass screen material onto my floorboards. It worked like a champ! Now, I have a pretty nonskid surface with a regular pattern.
  10. I use a diamond knot. Yeah, they’re hard to tie— the first one at least. The way I tighten them up is by putting a small washer in a bench vise. I pass the shackle through the hole, and seat the diamond knot against the washer. I slip a screwdriver through the shackle hole, and pull hard. Then, I flip it around the other way, passing the two tails through the washer. I grab the two tails individually with a pair of vise grips, and pull hard on each of them. When I’m done, the diamond knot is like a rock.
  11. Great advice on the ripstop. Unfortunately, I already bought a ton of it. Who knows? Maybe this tent will be a one-year prototype? Here’s what I have so far.
  12. Ted— A friend of mine tried something similar for boat reentry. Her feet kept swooping underneath the boat. I suggest that you try out your ladder in shallow water, before you do an official capsize test. I love the tinkering you’re doing.
  13. I really love tinkering with boat hardware, ropes, and fancy knots. I especially love soft shackles and lashing-style blocks. Why not marry the two? I had some Ronstan Orbit 20’s that are part of my new snotter system. I also had some 1/8” Amsteel. I hear wedding bells! The mini soft shackles came out great. I do not do a bury in this tiny stuff— that would be torture. Have a look. Maybe I can win you over these strong yet quiet blocks. Best of all, you don’t need to unscrew anything to remove them!
  14. Graham (“Designer”) said How soon can you second coat? As soon as it is firm enough to work on. I learned a nice trick to test for when it’s firm enough: a way that keeps you from getting goo on your fingertips. It’s called the cotton ball test. You simply dab a cotton ball on the epoxied surface. If fibers pull away, and stay stuck to the epoxy, it is not firm enough. If no fibers are retained on the surface, you are ready for a second coat. Last night: This morning:
  15. There is some mast rake specified, but that seems to be a bit excessive. Maybe somebody with access to their plans will chime in and tell you just how much rake is called for.
  16. It’s owner popped up on the Duckworks’ FB page. I’ve invited him to join the forum. He is new to boatbuilding.
  17. Someone once told me that there was only one perfect carpenter, and look what they did to Him.
  18. Been there, done that, Murray. I know how discouraged you’re probably feeling right now, but listen— we are always the worst critics of our own work. We get out those mental micrometers and spot all sorts of miniscule flaws in our work. LET IT GO! If I study your last photo very, very closely, I might detect a slight amount of what I’ll call “twist”. But it is very slight. Your boat is gorgeous. She’s going to be a dream to sail. I can’t wait to see her at the next Messabout. I’ll bet you that if I went out and checked my mast rake, that something will be off. I have already looked at how parallel my masts were )or weren’t). IT DOESN’T MATTER. She sails like a dream. Don’t worry, be happy, mon. You have a gorgeous boat.
  19. I have no data to back this up (I wonder why), but after about 8 coats, I think you’re doing more harm than good. Please disagree with me— anybody???
  20. For my RV, I’d need to change out my power control module, which would cost me over $200, if I installed it myself. Might be worth considering, if we boondock more.
  21. I took these photos at the 2018 Messabout. They are of Graham's tiny nesting pram.
  22. @sanmi— I’d like to hear more about your experience with Lithium Ion batteries. We have a travel trailer. We’ve used flooded batteries. We’re currently using AGM’s but I’m disappointed in their poor capabilities. These batteries should be named “knee-deep-cycle” batteries! To change over to LI, I’d also need to replace my internal charging unit, too, right?
  23. I have some old photos of a Two Paw that used used fire hose. I’ll try to dig those out later on. I took them at a B&B Messabout a long time ago.
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