Jump to content

Don Silsbe

  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Don Silsbe

  1. I have some old photos of a Two Paw that used used fire hose. I’ll try to dig those out later on. I took them at a B&B Messabout a long time ago.
  2. Thanks for the kudos, guys. It was a fun build. With over 300 wire holes, I kept finding unfilled holes even into the priming step. I used Quick Fair on the exterior holes, and epoxy thickened with wood flour & cabo on the varnished interior.
  3. @Kennneee— yes, I used a syringe for gluing up the planks. There’s a build thread about it on the main forum entitled “Don Builds a Kit!”
  4. Last winter, I built a CLC Annapolis Wherry, which is. Also glued lap construction. In their manual, they recommend cutting the gains with a combination of a rasp (a Shinto file is in the photos) and a sanding block. She looks lovely. You did fine.
  5. Those flannel bags will keep them nice and warm for those Wisconsin winters!
  6. I prefer nets with bungee cord tops, something like this. Also, two net hammocks (for storing stuff) were given to me. They’re brand new. If you want them, they’re yours.
  7. Ted, There are a lot of great ideas in this video from Sailrite. Have a look. But be forewarned— it’s a long one. Also, in the previous video from “Dan”, notice how he attaches the cover to the boat. On Wayfarers, they often have a line running just under the gunwales. This is primarily to aid in capsize recovery. But Dan Roeder uses it also to attach “most” of his tent to. He still uses a girth strap amidships. I hope to cruise with him in March. Maybe I can pick his brain about it then. As a warmup for sewing my tent, I made an awning. I’ll use it whilst (a Brit word I NEVER use, until now) anchored. We’ll see how that works out in real life. It is made of a heavier weight ripstop than my tent. We’ll see what this year’s cruising season tells me about these concoctions.
  8. The floats came out looking very nice, Ted!
  9. I think Roger let nostalgia and British pride cloud his fabric selection process. Ventile (cotton) is not waterproof until it gets saturated. Sounds like it is heavy when wet, and prone to mildew. I’m using coated ripstop nulon, which he calls “plastic”. OK, nylon is try a plastic material, but I believe it is more practical than Ventile. Granted, his fabric has a nice feel to it (when dry). But mine is going to oack down real small. We’ll see how it goes. I watched the video below yesterday. I’ll be cruising with this guy in February. By then, I’ll have made mine. I’m well on my way. Right now, I’m on the verge of having something photo-worthy. I’ll take photos in a few days.
  10. I’ve tried my Minnkota 35, with the battery mounted in the center of the boat in the bilge. I wasn’t impressed with the performance. I do know that the Torqueedo’s prop and thrust provide much more power and speed. For me, it’s a matter of economics. My Suzuki 2.5 cost less than $1,000, and $5 worth of gasoline goes a very long way. No chance of running out of fuel on a becalmed day (famous last words). If I’m cruising with a Torqueedo, and need it recharged, I’d be forced to plug in somewhere. If I add solar panels to the boat to eliminate that, how much gasoline could that have boughten with my solar panel money? I know everybody’s going green, but I need to be practical. And electricity is made from coal in the USA— not exactly green. If this sounds like a rant, I apologize. I’m mainly trying to provide another perspective to the Torqueedo trend. I guess I need another cup of coffee.
  11. Alan, Steve W has a great suggestion. I’ve done mockups before using corrugated cardboard. A mockup can tell you a lot. I am sure that B&B would provide you with a drawing section for that purpose. And if you do decide to travel cross country to pick up the kit, you are welcome to stay here on your way through. We’re about 6 or 7 hours from B&B, just south of Asheville, NC.
  12. But it works! Engineers are practical folk. If it works and is faster/easier/cheaper, then it is the better way.
  13. Actually, I’m planning to plane tomorrow. And that’s the plain truth!
  14. If Chick Ludwig always does butt joints, why am I wasting all that time planing?
  15. When finishing with high gloss paints, any surface anomalies become exaggerated. Using a finger joint is the best deterrent. A 7:1 scarf is second best, although I can see a lump in one of my boats where I have one. A reinforced butt joint has to come in last in this regard. On the other hand, Chick is a master builder. I am surprised at his statement. I will need to revise my thinking; not about Chick, but about butts. (Joints)
  16. Ouch! My neck hurts! Unrotated photos hurt my neck. So does eating tacos..
  17. It is my understanding that a CS20 mk 3 is only three sheets of plywood more than a 17. Given the increased headroom for a person your size. That’s the logical choice. It makes sense to me that B&B’s plans would be drawn with scarfing in mind, but I haven’t seen those plans. Good that Designer clarified it for you. Scarfing is easy. It just takes time, as does laying out, cutting, and trimming. You do know that every part should be cut proud to the line, and brought to the line with a block plane. That’s the time consuming part.
  18. OMG. Think of the cruising possibilities Vancouver has to offer!
  19. I consider myself blessed that I got to experience some of the quirks of a Seagull without ever having to own one. Seagull outboards belong in museums, not on transoms!
  20. I have a 2.5 Suzuki on my Bay River Skiff. It has a short shaft. I had to notch the transom, to get it down far enough. (I’d put an outboard bracket on my transom, if I had it to do over.) I did notice that if it is in neutral and idling, and I go forward to furl the main, the transom lifts out of the water enough to suck air into the cooling system. This is an indication that the long shaft might be better. I think @Joe Anderson just bought a Torqueedo for his EC 22 last year. Maybe he’ll chime in. I’ll have my Suzi with me, when I come to Sarasota in March. Maybe we can play with it on yours, to get a feel for shaft length.
  21. I agree with Mark about the finger joints. They will only work if they are CNC cut. Without that level of precision, you are asking for a disaster. I’ve built nearly all of my boats using a standard 7:1 scarf joint. Not sure what’s on the plans, but my money would be on that. As much as I love building from plans, I would never consider building a mark 3 from anything but a kit. A kit takes long enough to build. Building any cabin sailboat of this size required a lot of time and stamina. Building from plans doubles the task. This is just my opinion. But I do want to add that these boats are awesome boats.
  22. @musicmanx2— first of all, you can buy a lot of “expensive fuel” for what they charge for one of those Torqueedos. But never mind that. @Alan Stewart, (part owner of B and B ) put somebody’s Torq on the transom of his CS17 at the last Messabout. It flew like the wind! Hopefully, he’ll tell us here if it was long or short.
  23. He’s putting a 90 Merc on it. LOL. I think they’re little 35# thrust Minnkota trolling motors. This is the hot new thing in some circles.
  24. This is something I watched on offcenterhorbor.com. I heartily recommend joining this somewhat expensive subscription site. But here’s how they do it in Maine. https://www.offcenterharbor.com/videos/build-use-outhaul-anchor-boat/
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.