Don Silsbe

I’d droll another hole in your existing plate, or double up on one hole. (I’m cheap.)

So, yesterday evening, we went for a motor in Local Honey. I brought along a Lewmar 2.2# (2 kg) plough anchor I bought some time ago, because it was cute and cheap. We also had my 4# Danforth-ish along. I did an anchor drag test on both in the foothills sandy-mud-clay (listed in least to greatest percentage) that we are blessed with. I set them in about 12” of water, with about 2’ of chain. Neither anchor was able to set! Granted, this is not coastal Carolina pluff mud. BUT NEITHER WOULD SET!!! I’ll bring them both to the Messabout, for coastal testing. I had always considered the baby Lewmar a toy, and this test confirmed it. The Danny was a surprise, however.

I’ve been thinking of ways I’d design the base under that roller to wedge the anchor in place. Just don’t spoil the finish on your pretty boat’s new deck.

Thank you, Graham. I had already put the 4# Danforth(ish) back on my Bay River Skiff. Avocet will carry my 8# Danny, as well as Ted’s. I think the scope is the key. Some chain will be involved. But when you watch enough videos from Brooklin, ME, it’s easy to accept everything they say as gospel. I’d love to try a 8# Mantus M1, but that’s $170, and my boating budget is rather small. Besides, my requisition for the 7.5 pound bronze beauty was rejected by the War Department.

@Mark Rendelman— Might I suggest using a bow roller that will keep the anchor on place, when the trailered boat hits bumps in the road? Mine has a metal loop to keep it from becoming airborne. It also has sides, to keep the shank from sliding off onto the deck. I installed it into a trough, which keeps the chain off of my brightwork on my BRS15. This winter, I will probably transfer the metal part to Avocet, as she has no bow roller at the moment. (As PadrePoint said somewhere, I’m storing/improving/exercising her this winter, while the snow flies in his home state of Wisconsin.)

So, according toGoeff Kerr and Maynard Bray of Offcenterharbor.com, the best anchor to have is a Herreshof/stock/fisherman/yachtsman anchor. I found two. The first one is made of tarred steel. The other is of manganese bronze. I like the bronze, don’t you?

Incredible workmanship, Kennneee! And thanks for all the testing and reporting. I use Captains, and High Build (aka Flagship). Lately, I’ve been playing with applying it with a foam roller, and tipping it off with a soft brush. At least this is what I do on large surfaces.

Fir plywood. No thanks!

I wouldn’t bother with varnish.

@Aphers— Good point! Two questions to all: 1) What do you think about Danforth/Fortress-type anchors? 2) What type of anchor do you prefer on your boat? (Please state the size of your boat and anchor.) Is this a personal question??? My anchor is an 8# Danforth-type (w/15’ of chain). That’s what I used on my BRS 15 when I had my one experience. I didn’t wait for it to reset.

Just go and have a look, Andy. And save a trip, by bringing your checkbook. It is a gorgeous boat.

By the way, I have the same sort of rubber tiller extension on my Bay River Skiff. They are notorious for cracking and breaking with age. Because of this, I take the extension off the boat when not in use. It is only under stress when sailing. That way, it will never (?) fail while I’m using it.

You nailed it! If you add a little bungee cord in your tensioning line, you'll be able to make finer adjustments. RE: ”Storer Wrap” Meester included a link in one of his posts. It was to a Michael Storer website. (He’s the God-of-All-Things-Balanced-Lug.) On this website, Storer suggests wrapping the halyard around the yard. Here’s the link: https://www.storerboatplans.com/tuning/lug-rig-setup/what-is-that-crease-in-my-lugsail-how-to-diagnose-and-fix/ Bu I think a simple loop of line around the mast will hold the yard in place. Caveat: I have no experience on which to base this statement. Try stuff, and decide for yourself. That’s part of the fun!

I took these photos of my system. I used odds & ends I had in my hardware box. You’ll notice first that it’s on the underside of the tiller. Also, there’s a short piece of bungee in the tensioning line. This gives me a wider range of adjustment. This is how it looks under tension. The green bridle clips on and off at the gunwales. Also, to quickly disengage the system, just unsnap the snap hook from the bridle.

I use a poly tarp over framework. But the thickness should be 12mm or higher. Thinner that that, and they don’t hold up for long, especially with a snow load.

Well, if you were out sailing on Kalos, I can’t grumble. Looking forward to the photos and to seeing y’all at the Messabout.

I just found this photo on the B&B website. And I like the “Storer Wrap” around the mast. Worth a try.

I understand what you’re saying about raising the sail. In a small boat, it is quite tipsy up forward. It’s certainly worth a try. What I like about wooden boats is that you can try stuff. If you don’t like it, you remove it, use a little filler and paint, and nobody’s the wiser. With regards to tiller lock, I did something like this on my boat. Only difference is that I put it underneath the tiller instead of on top. Works great!

On a serious note, this video may be helpful to you.

I want to apologize for this up-front. But my weird sense of humor is kicking in. The title of this thread is: ”Jack stands for a core sound 17” I just want to say: ”Don stands for a Bay River Skiff 25” Sorry

I’ve been thinking about your question. You got a lot of good responses. But let me throw in my two cents-worth. First “cent”: I came across this video that might be helpful, at least for how to raise and lower the boat while it’s on the trailer. Second “cent”: Sailboats’ hulls are angled on the bottom. They are also smooth and slippery. I have concerns about using jack stands, especially if you’re talking about automotive jack stands. Since the jack stands are vertical, the bottom will hit them at an angle. The top of the jack stand could easily slip outboard. That’s why boat jack stands have a wider stance. And that’s also why the cradle idea is a better solution. The cradle kisses off to the shape of the bottom, and will not slip like a jack stand. No, I would never consider using jack stands, except for directly under the keel.

I’m quite sure they won’t be on the plans. We all add little things like this to our boats for various reasons. Some suggestions were given here. But if you don’t like them, take them off. If you do, feel free to add more.

@Andy B— I hear you! I am also a sucker for a lapstrake boat. I built an Annapolis Wherry for a friend. It made me want to sell my rower and build another wherry!

@Jknight611—It sounds like you keep your sprits attached to the mast. Is that correct? Do you have any photos? I’d like to discuss this with you at the messabout. I’ll bet that Ted Johanson (Padre Point) would like to be in on that, too.

@Randy Jones— I like the sound of that! But I’d be afraid of being sucked out to sea in the middle of the night.