Don Silsbe

Rather than starting a new thread called “Sailing Local Honey”, I thought I’d just drop this in here. Last Saturday, I took the next door neighbor kid for a sail. It was his second time sailing. This time, we had more wind, and it was delightful!

In the past, I have used my crappy Craftsman jig saw, cut shy of the line, and used a block plane to get to the line. I also do port and starboard sides simultaneously. I’ve built nine boats, and counting. Occasionally, though, I like to stand back, and think outside the box. “Might there be a better way?” Something caught my eye at Lowes yesterday, which turned on a light bulb in my pea-brain. So, I drove over to Harbor Freight, and bought this. This is what I mean about thinking outside the box. It might really suck at cutting curves. It might really suck in general. But the multitool worked like a champ, when relocating Avocet’s centerboard 10” forward. The experiment is going to cost me only $7.50. If it fails, I’ll probably suck it up and buy a cordless jigsaw. That’ll set me back about $200, but at least I won’t have to use that old saw anymore.

But the chainsaw would be faster…. LOL

I’m leaning to using the jig saw. As I recall, the mini-circular saw was nice to use, though. I block plane all my lines, as I don’t trust my jig saw technique. Maybe one of these nice, new ones will perform better.

I’m about to start a new build (over on the other Main Forum), and I’m thinking about how I’m going to cut out the panels out of Okoume. How do you cut your parts out? Do you use a jig saw a small circular saw or something else? I’ve used two of these tools for doing this in the past. Since then, my mini circular saw died, and my jig saw is ready to retire. Before I buy one of these, I’d like to see what all of you non-kit builders use for this task.

If you have specific questions, take photos, and post them. There is no such thing as a stupid question on this forum. This rig is very familiar to most of us on this forum. Your biggest problem will be which person’s advice to choose!

This is sort of my approach, at least for the rain fly. I’m still going to use a one-man tent for my sleeping quarters.

The Brooklin Boatyard uses Titebond III in many marine applications. I wouldn’t think of building a boat without my scarfing jig (7:1). You’re doing a fine job!

Heres my fishing setup for my Bay River Skiff. I use my 2.5 hp Suzuki. I’d love to test out a 9.9…

I will likely be back in your area in February. If you’re still interested, I might be able to stop by.

It was fun sculling again. I haven’t done that since I was a kid. The end of the video shows what can happen if you let go of the sculling oar as you approach the dock. Doh!

What a shame. I was in your area last March, a d had time on my hands. I’ll be back in February, if you still need a hand.

I always reach for my sheets at the cleats. There is never any doubt as to which I’m grabbing.

I’m with Andy on this one!

Let me start by saying that I’ve only seen photos of the Mirror, but two things come to mind when comparing these boats. First, I know that the Spindrifts are super fast boats. Not sure about the Mirror. There was a time when Graham’s S11 could not be beaten in local races. In fact, he won 86 consecutive races! Second, since the Mirror has a small jib, the mast will be further aft. Anything forward of the mast is not usable for crew space, due to the jib. Here’s a photo of my friend Jan Coté taking a ride in Randy’s (Graham’s neighbor, whose last name I’ve forgotten) S12. Plenty of room for two adults. That said, I’m a fan of the Amanda 12. But I’d like it better with the Spindrift rig.

Oh! Ben! Now I remember. Happy to see you posting.

@Hirilonde— Besides, the air at the top of the mast is irrelevant, since most of the sail area is 2/3 down the mast. PLUS, my ability to accurately read a wind indicator that is 5’ away outweigh the slight difference of a wind vane that is 20’ away. Think about that. I really believe that the difference in location is infinitesimal. The only way to prove it is at the Messabout. My little device can easily be relocated to anybody’s boat that wants to try it out. Are you in? This is what the forum is all about, isn’t it?

I was there last summer in my Two Paw 8 “Two Bits”! She was being towed behind my friend’s CS17 mk3 Avocet. I’ll bet that was Andy B’s new (to him) CS 20. But maybe not.

I think Alan uses butyl tape, like you use on an RV.

So, I am so enthusiastic about the masthead float I made for my Bay River Skiff, I decided I needed one for Two Bits. When I did my capsize test, I noticed how quickly she wanted to turn turtle. B&B doesn’t have a mini float kit (yet), so I made my own. By my figures, a 6” diameter ball would provide about 4# buoyancy. Not sure that was enough, but it wasn’t too ugly on top of the mast. I got a piece of 1/2” diameter aluminum tubing from my local store, and attached it to the top of the mast. I then made a fiberglass sleeve, using the method we use to make a glass tube for our mast step. (Sorry, no photo.) then, I stacked up six layers of 1” foam insulation, and started making foam dust. I covered it with glass and epoxy, and painted it. It’s not perfect, but it is good enough. Yesterday, I got to check it out. Four pounds is plenty of floatation!

@Hirilonde—I prefer somewhat fouled air to a crick in my 74 year-old neck!

To attach the tent to the floor of the boat, how about some attaching some screw eyes to the side seat surface, very close to the hull sides? They’d be out of the way, and solid. Does your tent have a front entry? Otherwise, I’m not sure about ingress/egress.

@paul_stewart— Agreed! But some were shot at the equator. LOL

I rotate them in my photo app before I add them to the post.

I have full coverage on my scratch-built boat. I have Farmers.