Don Silsbe

@PadrePoint— And for me, it is a design problem. What fun!

Currently, there is no knee. I have a choice of adding a 1/2” or 3/4” thick one. One is shown on both Graham and Chief’s boats in those videos. Also, there is even less room on a 17 for packing this all in. So, my current plan is to go straight with the roller (like Graham did), put the cleat just to port of the tabernacle (like you did), through bolt the base plate, straddling the knee, and using T-nuts to attach the roller to the base plate. Before I do, I want to make sure I can get those beefy T-nuts in stainless. I would also appreciate hearing from others, before I glue in the knee.

Thanks, Amos. The shape of your plate is exquisite! I was also thinking of tilting it to port. There are fewer lones on that side— more available space. The problem I cant’t get past is how to work around the support knee. My roller is narrow, and has holes in the same location that yours does. My current solution is to attach the wooden base plate with through-bolts, and attach the roller to the plate with short 3/8” bolts and T-nuts. What’s your plan? Also, is a 1/2” thick knee substantial enough, or should I go thicker.?

I started on the bow roller. Here, I’m gluing a triangular plate underneath the deck. Next, I’ll add a knee. Since it is cool outside, the anchor locker is a mini-sauna. Once the way is clear, I want to ask y’all’s opinion on roller placement. There are a few options, all good.

We’re talking about it, and seriously considering it. But a bow roller is next.

Today was a big day. I drilled the first holes in someone else’s perfectly good boat. IMG_8164.MOV That’s all it took. Then, I went to town on the coaming cubby bins.

The saying is about a defective marine compass manufactured by Tates Compass, LLC. They were so bad, it coined the phrase… “He who has a Tates is lost.”

@PadrePoint— While you were eating, I found a photo of Gira Gira. Incidentally, today, I bought the electrical conduit to try this out on Avocet (and maybe do it on Local Honey, too. It does require running the mizzen sheet forward, up the sprit, and down to a fairlead/cam cleat on the thwart. Fortunately, Avocet is already set up this way. Local Honey started out this way, but eventually I went with the mizzen sheeting shown on the plans. I might need to switch back, it this works for preventing outboard motor fouling.

I like the trapezoidal shape, Steve. Avocet has a bridle that centers the mizzen. For me, when you over-trim the mizzen, it generates less lift— there is no longer any air flow on both sides of the sail. Another alternative is to reef the main, and run the mizzen without. This is what the previous owner did, at least in this photo. @Andy B— I wanted so badly to keep up with your Sea Pearl!!! But the tiller needed to be positioned as shown in this photo. With the tiller in this position, it was generating a lot of drag. The first few CS17.3’s were built with the c/b in this position, including Avocet. Once B&B realized what was going on, they moved the c/b forward 10”. Basically, by design, the lateral resistance of the boat should line up with the lateral force that the sails apply on the boat. When they don’t line up, you get windward or leeward helm. This easy to say in a few words. It is much more difficult to get it right on the drawing board. With a c/b boat you can cure windward helm by pivoting the c/b rearward. Leeward helm is more difficult to correct.

First modification is cutting holes in the coaming for line storage. I enlarged the little drawing I had about 100 times to get the shape. The length appears to be about 12”. Does the size and location look right to all of you?

As many of you know, Ted Johanson (Padre Point) has entrusted me with the care and storage of his lovely Core Sound 17 mk 3 Avocet. The modifications will focus on organizing the numerous lines that are on this boat, and get them out from under foot. There are other mods on my list, such as adding a bow roller for an anchor, and moving the centerboard forward to eliminate the leeward helm. We’ll see how far I get, before we take her to Florida to hang out with the boys and gurls of the WCTSS. I am posting this work in hopes that I can get some good feedback from the Mark 3 community.

You did a fine job! I’ll bet the Torqueedo really pushes that dink along!

I thought maybe you’d save some of your epoxy clothes to do a sermon in. One entitled “Things might need to get messy in order to create something beautiful.”

It wasn’t a build, but a two part showcase of his little yawl. https://www.offcenterharbor.com/videos/maynard-brays-herreshoff-coquina-part-1/

I hear you, Andy! I have a subscription, and just looked around. There are a few items, such as two videos on Maynard Bray’s Coquina. Not a lot of interest, recently. I keep it for the detailed builds on some of the boats like the Fox canoe.

Ah, the joys of sailing. LOL

I STAND corrected! LOL. (I still don’t like it.)

@Kennneee— Yes. It provides me with a position that is ideal for rowing. My boatbuilding mentor, Don Rausch, rowed it years ago. He commented that Graham got it right. I agree.

I have a pair of 8’ oars on my Bay River Skiff. They do a fine job. I still feel that longer is better. I have a pair of 9-1/2’s on my exercise skiff. I need to try those out some time. But the 8’s work great.

What’s the purpose of the removable seat— to row facing forward? If so, I’m not a fan for several reasons. 1) You’ll be sitting too far aft for efficient weight distribution. You’ll go slower for your effort. 2) I think you’ll discover this rowing position to be more grueling that the traditional rear-facing one. Time will tell. 3) It is lubberly. FOOD FOR THOUGHT How many means of propulsion does one need on a boat? With sails and a reliable motor, there are already two. Some Mark 3’s have no oars. Those who do have them are usually attend Water Tribe events. My Catalina 27 did not have an oar or a paddle on board. Why do I need one on a day sailor which already has a reliable motor?

@PHBenson— I believe it is not here on the forum, but in a YouTube video series he’s doing on the construction of his Core Sound 20 mark 3. It is in Update #8, starting at the 4:50 time stamp. Here’s the link:

To me, if dimensions are given, they overrule anything I can derive by scaling a paper drawing.

I went back and reviewed his video. I see what you’re talking about. I thought there was a strap that went from one gunwale, under the boat and around to the other gunwale. This makes more sense. Not sure if his method would work on my hard chined boat, though. If I do another tent, I’d need to experiment.

I’d love to meet you! It is always fun AND educational. You’re guaranteed to have a great time, or double your money back.

@Oyster— I am not at liberty to say.