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Don Silsbe

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Everything posted by Don Silsbe

  1. @PadrePoint— yes. On my boat (see photo above), the stem meets the keel in a sharp corner. It’s not like the Core Sounds or Spindrifts, which have a curved lower bow. I’m not sure I can round this bend with hollowback.
  2. I can see using sacrificial strips on the Two Paw. But how do I get the hollowback to round that sharp corner on my BRS15?
  3. I’m beginning to see the value in adding a metal strip to the keel of my Two Paw and my Bay River Skiff. Here are my questions: 1) Where is a good source for buying it? 2) Should I use hollowback or half round metal, or something else? 3) Is brass OK, or should I stick with stainless? 4) What is the best way to attach it?
  4. @PadrePoint— Yes. Sleeves are either a sock thanencloses the top of the mast, or there is a webbing strap that goes over the top. There is no halyard. Sails are slipped onto the mast from the top down. The sails are usually furled or rolled onto the mast, instead of taking them lowering them. Andy B would need a large grommet (3/4” I.D.) added to his sleeve, at least from what I can envision. On my boat, I do not have halyards, and the sail is furled. I just bought the masthead float kit. I intend to screw the shaft to the forward side of the main mast. It helps that the top section of my mast is wood, but this could also be accomplished with an aluminum mast.
  5. I don’t think the Japanese engineers of these products have any idea how we use them here in the States.
  6. I’m hoping for 10-12 “dips” per year. Hosing off will work with this trailer. The last was painted tubular steel. No way to hose down the insides of the tubing.
  7. Last summer, I did a capsize test with my Two Paw 8, “Two Bits”. I found that she floated better with the temporary floatation tanks I installed. This spring, I’m building permanent tanks into the hull. Also, at the Messabout, I got to row Tom’s TP8. I was amazed at how much better it rowed than mine. His seat and oarlocks were further aft than mine, which made all the difference. I failed to get measurements of his. Is he on this forum? Is his boat available to measure? D3E001C0-368E-4CB1-B1F2-E29BFF56B100.MOV
  8. Given the snow you had this past week, you’re gonna need to start a new thread entitled “Defrosting The Norma T”.
  9. @meester. Glad you pointed out my little shin-jabbers. The aluminum plate was close at hand, and galvanized was not. The problem I have with using galvanized is that if I cut the end, it’ll rust. Suggestions? Also, what about all these nickel-plated fasteners? I used galvanized, where possible. But the trailer guide fasteners and all the OEM fasteners are nickel- plated.
  10. Good point, Pete. But as a fellow engineer, you’ll appreciate the load distribution issue that I needed to solve as well. Right?
  11. Here’s my fix. I believe it will work.
  12. I believe it is from a bending load. This bow roller puts a downward load on the two verticals. This in turn tries to bend the 2x10 over the channel. I happen to have an aluminum plate that will be slipped in between the wood and the trailer. This will transfer the load from the vertical walls directly to the trailer. I’ll take a photo when I’m done.
  13. Uh-oh! Guess I nee a little reinforcement.
  14. I’m about to order a masthead float for my Bay River Skiff. Alan is working up a version that does not include the Starboard fittings. This is because the top section of my mast is solid wood. I will be screwing it to the front of the mast. Not sure if I’ll make the whole thing removable, or leave the metal tube on the mast. I could embed some threaded brass inserts into the wood. The same could be done on an aluminum mast with nutserts. While switching from my old painted trailer to a new galvanized one yesterday, I did a capsize test at the ramp. (I finally got to be a Ramp Hog, along with all the rednecks who have been doing this to me these many years.) Anyway, I got to prove to myself that the seat tanks actually do work. Time to get a masthead float.
  15. I know that I’m touching Superman’s cape with this suggestion, but… When I installed the B&B hatches into my rowing skiff, I used these plastic hinges. They have been in use for over a year now, and get cycled all the time.
  16. @Randy Jones— You must have the wrong person. I only run one battery, and charge it at home or at the campsite at the end of the day.9
  17. A good old boatbuilding/sailing friend of mine weighed anchor today, and crossed over the bar. Rest in peace, Don Rausch, and smooth sailing. He introduced me to B&B’s boats, and is responsible for my attending the messabouts. He was a great spinner of yarns, mostly true. And he taught me a lot about boatbuilding. He’ll be missed.
  18. I am aware of the resistance generated when using small wire over long runs. All my long extension cords are 12 ga. The jumper cable I’m using is a larger diameter wire than the feed wire that is on the motors. I bought a long, heavy-gage set of jumper cables, cut them in half, spliced one half to my transom mount motor (35# thrust), and the other to the bow mount motor I use when in fishing mode. While I was at it, I spliced in a standard 12volt power socket to run accessories. I use the 35# motor on my Two Paw 8, by the way.
  19. @Steve W— Thanks for the link. The ramps here in the NC foothills are more shallow, so I usually dunk about 1/2 of the trailer. Also, this year I’m planning to do a lot more coastal cruising. My painted trailer has been dunked in salt every year (except for 2020) into the Bay River, and is showing quite a bit of rust. Time to go galvanized! Can’t wait to read your thread.
  20. Ted, Steve makes some very good points. This type of sail is a sort of cross between a spinnaker and a jib. The material is super light, like a spinnaker, but it is cut “sort of” like a jib. I don’t see why you couldn’t play around with the concept using one of the jibs. But a real staysail would be much better, once you get past the experimental stage. For me on my small lakes, a staysail would be a nuisance. They are only for extended runs on certain points of sail. I need to change course frequently, and this sail does not accommodate frequent changes. Please note that I always reserve the right to be wrong; this is just my opinion.
  21. @Randy Jones— That’s clever! I also submerge my trailer. Now that I think about it, I only need a roller or two up forward. The rest of the keel weight could rest on a bunk of some sort. I’ve noticed with my current trailer, that the paint on the keel has worn off at at least one of the rollers. I don’t have hollowback on my keel, and think I need to rectify that.
  22. I guess the bigger question is if this roller system is necessary on a skiff. I see that Alan Stewart used three or four rollers on the trailer for the Core Sound 15 he built. What do most core Sound 15’s and 17 Mark 1’s use?
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