Jump to content

Don Silsbe

  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Don Silsbe

  1. I use a diamond knot. Yeah, they’re hard to tie— the first one at least. The way I tighten them up is by putting a small washer in a bench vise. I pass the shackle through the hole, and seat the diamond knot against the washer. I slip a screwdriver through the shackle hole, and pull hard. Then, I flip it around the other way, passing the two tails through the washer. I grab the two tails individually with a pair of vise grips, and pull hard on each of them. When I’m done, the diamond knot is like a rock.
  2. Great advice on the ripstop. Unfortunately, I already bought a ton of it. Who knows? Maybe this tent will be a one-year prototype? Here’s what I have so far.
  3. Ted— A friend of mine tried something similar for boat reentry. Her feet kept swooping underneath the boat. I suggest that you try out your ladder in shallow water, before you do an official capsize test. I love the tinkering you’re doing.
  4. I really love tinkering with boat hardware, ropes, and fancy knots. I especially love soft shackles and lashing-style blocks. Why not marry the two? I had some Ronstan Orbit 20’s that are part of my new snotter system. I also had some 1/8” Amsteel. I hear wedding bells! The mini soft shackles came out great. I do not do a bury in this tiny stuff— that would be torture. Have a look. Maybe I can win you over these strong yet quiet blocks. Best of all, you don’t need to unscrew anything to remove them!
  5. Graham (“Designer”) said How soon can you second coat? As soon as it is firm enough to work on. I learned a nice trick to test for when it’s firm enough: a way that keeps you from getting goo on your fingertips. It’s called the cotton ball test. You simply dab a cotton ball on the epoxied surface. If fibers pull away, and stay stuck to the epoxy, it is not firm enough. If no fibers are retained on the surface, you are ready for a second coat. Last night: This morning:
  6. There is some mast rake specified, but that seems to be a bit excessive. Maybe somebody with access to their plans will chime in and tell you just how much rake is called for.
  7. It’s owner popped up on the Duckworks’ FB page. I’ve invited him to join the forum. He is new to boatbuilding.
  8. Someone once told me that there was only one perfect carpenter, and look what they did to Him.
  9. Been there, done that, Murray. I know how discouraged you’re probably feeling right now, but listen— we are always the worst critics of our own work. We get out those mental micrometers and spot all sorts of miniscule flaws in our work. LET IT GO! If I study your last photo very, very closely, I might detect a slight amount of what I’ll call “twist”. But it is very slight. Your boat is gorgeous. She’s going to be a dream to sail. I can’t wait to see her at the next Messabout. I’ll bet you that if I went out and checked my mast rake, that something will be off. I have already looked at how parallel my masts were )or weren’t). IT DOESN’T MATTER. She sails like a dream. Don’t worry, be happy, mon. You have a gorgeous boat.
  10. I have no data to back this up (I wonder why), but after about 8 coats, I think you’re doing more harm than good. Please disagree with me— anybody???
  11. For my RV, I’d need to change out my power control module, which would cost me over $200, if I installed it myself. Might be worth considering, if we boondock more.
  12. I took these photos at the 2018 Messabout. They are of Graham's tiny nesting pram.
  13. @sanmi— I’d like to hear more about your experience with Lithium Ion batteries. We have a travel trailer. We’ve used flooded batteries. We’re currently using AGM’s but I’m disappointed in their poor capabilities. These batteries should be named “knee-deep-cycle” batteries! To change over to LI, I’d also need to replace my internal charging unit, too, right?
  14. I have some old photos of a Two Paw that used used fire hose. I’ll try to dig those out later on. I took them at a B&B Messabout a long time ago.
  15. Thanks for the kudos, guys. It was a fun build. With over 300 wire holes, I kept finding unfilled holes even into the priming step. I used Quick Fair on the exterior holes, and epoxy thickened with wood flour & cabo on the varnished interior.
  16. @Kennneee— yes, I used a syringe for gluing up the planks. There’s a build thread about it on the main forum entitled “Don Builds a Kit!”
  17. Last winter, I built a CLC Annapolis Wherry, which is. Also glued lap construction. In their manual, they recommend cutting the gains with a combination of a rasp (a Shinto file is in the photos) and a sanding block. She looks lovely. You did fine.
  18. Those flannel bags will keep them nice and warm for those Wisconsin winters!
  19. I prefer nets with bungee cord tops, something like this. Also, two net hammocks (for storing stuff) were given to me. They’re brand new. If you want them, they’re yours.
  20. Ted, There are a lot of great ideas in this video from Sailrite. Have a look. But be forewarned— it’s a long one. Also, in the previous video from “Dan”, notice how he attaches the cover to the boat. On Wayfarers, they often have a line running just under the gunwales. This is primarily to aid in capsize recovery. But Dan Roeder uses it also to attach “most” of his tent to. He still uses a girth strap amidships. I hope to cruise with him in March. Maybe I can pick his brain about it then. As a warmup for sewing my tent, I made an awning. I’ll use it whilst (a Brit word I NEVER use, until now) anchored. We’ll see how that works out in real life. It is made of a heavier weight ripstop than my tent. We’ll see what this year’s cruising season tells me about these concoctions.
  21. The floats came out looking very nice, Ted!
  22. I think Roger let nostalgia and British pride cloud his fabric selection process. Ventile (cotton) is not waterproof until it gets saturated. Sounds like it is heavy when wet, and prone to mildew. I’m using coated ripstop nulon, which he calls “plastic”. OK, nylon is try a plastic material, but I believe it is more practical than Ventile. Granted, his fabric has a nice feel to it (when dry). But mine is going to oack down real small. We’ll see how it goes. I watched the video below yesterday. I’ll be cruising with this guy in February. By then, I’ll have made mine. I’m well on my way. Right now, I’m on the verge of having something photo-worthy. I’ll take photos in a few days.
  23. I’ve tried my Minnkota 35, with the battery mounted in the center of the boat in the bilge. I wasn’t impressed with the performance. I do know that the Torqueedo’s prop and thrust provide much more power and speed. For me, it’s a matter of economics. My Suzuki 2.5 cost less than $1,000, and $5 worth of gasoline goes a very long way. No chance of running out of fuel on a becalmed day (famous last words). If I’m cruising with a Torqueedo, and need it recharged, I’d be forced to plug in somewhere. If I add solar panels to the boat to eliminate that, how much gasoline could that have boughten with my solar panel money? I know everybody’s going green, but I need to be practical. And electricity is made from coal in the USA— not exactly green. If this sounds like a rant, I apologize. I’m mainly trying to provide another perspective to the Torqueedo trend. I guess I need another cup of coffee.
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.