Todd Stein Posted April 5, 2020 Report Share Posted April 5, 2020 Thank you for the excellent detailed description. It was like I was peering over your shoulder pickin’ up what you’re layin’ down. I’m much more confident now and fully understand to process moving forward thanks to your help. One challenge is whether the boomkin can still be utilized. The other factor/concern is installing the swim ladder adjacent to windvane and trim tab port side of rudder. I’m thinking that will be entirely too much but first things first! Stay safe and healthy and look forward to future conversations. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve W Posted April 6, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2020 The Boomkin.......yeah, that is probably not going to work with this type of Mount unless you made it one piece and tied in good to the underside of the seat tops. I think that would be doable, but not like Gaham's. I think in some ways that would be just fine. Ad having that come in to port would give you something more to hold onto climbing the ladder. I ruled out a boomkin just because of boat length. As far as a windvane, I am probably not going down that road either. Skeena steered herself for 51 minutes on one tack in my trip to the Chesapeake with just a few minor course corrections. I think she's a bit too balanced for sheet to tiller steering, but I may fool with that. I had that sorted out pretty well on my Sea Pearl, but that was over 12 years of pondering perpetual motion. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve W Posted June 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2020 So I took Skeena on her first sail of 2020 Today with my son Andrew. Very fresh and Gusty Winds. I had to reacquaint myself with the rig because it was a full 7 months since my last sail. Our main purpose was to get Andrew on his first sail (he was in working and then college last summer/fall) and try out a few things. First was the Depth sounder. It worked perfectly. While I know depth isn't something we worry about, I find it a good backup to navigation when the depth your chart or GPS says you are is backed up by the proper depth. I forgot to put petroleum jelly down to provide good contact, so my son though it was magic when I went below with a water bottle and made it work! I'll glue it down tonight. Next up was a ballast pump. As I mentioned earlier Jay put a 2 way ballast pump in his Southern Express and his pre-planning made it possible. But being the Luddite I am didn't put any accommodation in and now regret it. I did put in Graham's secret port and after thinking about things I added a bilge pump to fill, which worked perfectly. And if you pop off the friction fit hose and put it on the discharge it silently drains the water really fast. Here's a Vid: Unfortunately I didn't realize the Anderson bailer was open and it was draining about as fast as we were filling in this video (Doh!). Once I figured this out it filled quick. Later in the day I pulled the hose off the inlet and pressed it on the outlet and it pumped it dry pretty quick. It would be slick if I could find a 2-way spool valve that would let me just flip the inlet and outlet, but another of these bilge pumps is only about $30 bucks, so I may go that route. It didn't seem to drain my little battery very much and the solar topped it right up. About the time it emptied the wind piped up and I wanted the water in and when we were healed to starboard the inlet would go dry and the pump would suck air. If I was designing this system in I would work harder to get the inlet at the base of the centerboard trunk. But I have to call it a success. Next is poking a hole in the top of the ballast tank to run a wire and then sealing it. We just hiked out hard and kept her flat enough to keep filling until we could tack. All in all a successful day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jknight611 Posted June 1, 2020 Report Share Posted June 1, 2020 Nice idea with the bilge pump Steve, soooo much quieter than the Johnson ballast pump. How bout a 3 way switch to reverse the pump polarity, with a anti-siphon loop/vent in the fill/empty line. I will R&D your installation, (research & duplicate). Not sure if a centrifugal pump would draw water in but.... I outsmarted myself with the thru hull in the trunk, wouldn’t do that again, when I do a refit I will probably move it to an easier place to clean out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve W Posted June 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2020 Jay, we experimented and the pump doesn't work backwards! That would be sweet but no luck. I'd had that Johnson 750 GPH pump laying around for years. The good news is you can just pull the motor to clean if it gets junk in it. I have thought it through and I think another pump is cheap and easiest. My only challenge is feeding wires into the tank while keeping it sealed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul356 Posted June 1, 2020 Report Share Posted June 1, 2020 Looking great, Steve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve W Posted July 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2020 I just got back from a 4 day 3 night trip on Skeena. I love this boat so much. Everything just worked out great. I've tweaked a few things to the way I like them, but the design is just awesome. I do plan on adding a second down-haul forward. I ordered the parts from B & B. Sunday morning the wind piped up to where I needed to reef the main and I wasn't comfortable going out on the Cabin top to move the down-haul hook up to reef. I dropped the sail to accomplish this but I think I would be fine lowering the sail by releasing the halyard and pulling down on the 2nd down-haul. Pointing up I can easily reach the reef cleats and I'd easily have the first reef in. Once I added the Mizzen reef I would then go forward to move the original down-haul up to the 3rd reef spot in case a 2nd reef became necessary. None of this has been necessary because up to this point I almost always had crew. I am also going to add some kind of a tent from the mizzen mast forward over the companionway. The UV index for all four days was off the charts and it was warm in the cabin. I used an umbrella to stay out of the sun a few times, but I really need to rig something. Any suggestions would be welcomed. I'm heading to Maine 2 weeks from now and I need to scramble on this. My dermatologist told me so . Pics and a video soon. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete McCrary Posted July 29, 2020 Report Share Posted July 29, 2020 Steve, ... Before Chessie’s maiden voyage I had a tent made for deployment between the masts. I never “fined-tuned” it because an early May snow-fall carted the 3/4” pvc roof braces to collapse. I replaced them with 1” pvc, but never made use of the tent. It had standing headroom when standing on the cabin sole — and sitting headroom before the mizzenmast. The fore and aft “curtains” snapped in place and could easily be stowed in the cabin. And the roof and sides could be rolled around the longitudinal 3/4” pvc centerline and side braces — if rolled tightly, that package could be stowed in either cockpit coaming. It was flexible enough to fit thru either aft opening of the comings — but not easy to do on the water. I think the sides were attached to the top with Velcro and rolled up with the end pieces and stowed together in the cabin. The tent went with Chessie when sold to Erik. Maybe he can make some use of it. Actually, I was disappointed in [my] design. Deployment and stowage while cruising, in my view, was completely unsatisfactory — I didn’t ever try to deploy it (except in my driveway). See photos. I’d recommend a design much lighter weight and somehow split at the mizzenmast to also cover some of the aft cockpit. Maybe bowed braces that are foldable like campers tents I’m thinking of something like that for the Spindrift 10. Suggestions welcome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmosSwogger Posted July 29, 2020 Report Share Posted July 29, 2020 Steve, when it comes to going out on the cabin top to move the downhaul, well, don't. I did a few times, then asked myself why. Extending your body through the forward hatch works very well for that purpose. Next time just go through the cabin, step up on on the fwd cabin storage hatch area, and move the downhaul from there. Much more comfortable. Last sail I retrieved the anchor from that position (the anchor was even hooked onto a crab pot, so I had to pull up a lot of weight) and it worked very well. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete McCrary Posted July 29, 2020 Report Share Posted July 29, 2020 I second that! Especially sailing solo and on the tarmac. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve W Posted July 29, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2020 One advantage your slide open hatch design has is the ability to pop out of it. I tried and think it's not really practical for my hinged hatch. I keep it dogged and by the time I could go below and pop out I might jibe or worse. I do think adding a downhaul will make it easy to add the first reef from the cockpit. I dropped sail to add it before, but it was slow. I did pause to reef the mizzen. Tying the first two sail ties was easy and safe standing on the cabin step. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete McCrary Posted July 30, 2020 Report Share Posted July 30, 2020 I rigged Chessie so that the fwd hatch cover could be opened and closed from the companionway. Notice the gray 1” strap leading from the center of the fwd edge of the hatch back aft. That strap can be reached by standing in the companionway. If the dodger is deployed its top can be zippered open. That also allows tending of the reefing pendants. The next photo shows the hatch open, but limited by a strap on the port side which prevents chafing of the dodger. It is made fast to the hatch cover by snap-buttons, which are adjustable for several different open angles. Below you can see the strap left dangling in the dodger opening. Of course, in order to make use of the strap for opening the hatch, it [the hatch] must not be locked down from the inside or out-of-reach from the companionway. Chessie’s hatch is held fast-closed by a bungee,, which is engaged from inside the cabin. My practice was to leave it free to open except when trailering or for security if skipper and crew were locking the cabin while absent. I suppose there is risk in leaving it unlashed while sailing, but I think that risk is much less than tending lines while standing or kneeling on the cabin roof. Even if the boat experienced a knock-down, it is very possible that the on-its-side waterline would be “below” the edge of the hatch opening. But Graham would have to acknowledge or dispute that. But someone falling off the cabin roof is almost inevitable. Especially if he must pay close attention to a rigging task while in motion and not constantly aware of surprise wakes, waves, wind gusts, etc. And the reefing pendants don’t need to be tied immediately in order to have effective reefing. All but the most forward can be tied from the companionway — and the other one later, when conditions are convenient for going into the cabin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve W Posted July 31, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2020 Pete, I like what you did, but I've had a hard time feeling comfortable leaving the cockpit and going below to pop up and work the sail when sailing solo. I feel pretty helpless leaving the tiller, halyards and sheets for even a second. Also, my hatch contains a solar panel on it's lid and I made the exact same dogs Graham did on Carlita and I'm uncomfortable leaving the hatch un-dogged at the time I'm needing a reef or two. By the time I go forward, make a change, re-dog it just doesn't feel right. I'm hopeful this change will accomplish what I want from the cockpit for the most part. I'm close to having the second reef point rigged (maybe tomorrow) to test. I can reach the first two reef ties from the companionway. Also, in a pinch it's easy to drop the sail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete McCrary Posted July 31, 2020 Report Share Posted July 31, 2020 I feel the same about leaving the helm unattended. Even when she’s sailing balanced and “hands free Mom.” But that changes when your weight shifts to the bow. And that’s why I sprung for the auto tiller pilot. So useful for a solo sailor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jknight611 Posted July 31, 2020 Report Share Posted July 31, 2020 Hi all, late to the discussion, been “social distancing “ while sanding/filling the glass on the Flinders. We have our CS20.3 set up to reef from the cockpit quickly. I have woven some colored thread through the main halyard to indicate where the halyard ends up at the cleat when reefed, so, Up into wind, tighten the mizzen sheet (kinda hove too). So I tighten the topping lift, loosen the snottter, release the main halyard to the colored thread on the cleat then pull the forward reefing line, clew reef line, then tighten snotter release the topping lift, then back under way, never leave the cockpit, and it takes 30 seconds. Hope everyone is well and planning to go to the Messabout, we wanted the Flinders to be completed but.......likely ain’t happin! So Southern Express will be there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul356 Posted July 31, 2020 Report Share Posted July 31, 2020 I do what I describes, on my 17. As he says, it takes 30 seconds. I have the second reef line in place on the main mast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Rendelman hull 24 Posted August 11, 2020 Report Share Posted August 11, 2020 Steve! Mark here hull #24 question? what did you do for a keel strip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve W Posted August 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2020 Mark, I used a piece of white oak , which is very rot resistant closed pore wood. Its fault has been said that it doesn't glue well. I have a old cheap table saw blade I banged a tooth or two off so it leaves a rough finish. I glued the strip down after a radius was added to accept 3/4 stainless hollow back rub rail, which I glued/ screwed on. 19 sails in with no irssues. Hope this helps. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hirilonde Posted August 14, 2020 Report Share Posted August 14, 2020 On 8/12/2020 at 4:40 AM, Steve W said: Its fault has been said that it doesn't glue well. People say the same thing about Teak. I have had no issue with either. Clean, clean, clean the mating surfaces. Use a solvent. Acetone works best, alcohol works well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jknight611 Posted August 14, 2020 Report Share Posted August 14, 2020 I recently had a unusual problem with some acetone, I was cleaning PEG mold release agent from recently unmolded epoxy with acetone and noticed when it dried it left a thin sheen of oily substance. Read the label closely when messing with some acetone, I bought this pint can from my local Ace Hardware and In tiny print it said it was recycled acetone. It looks like some sort of petroleum sheen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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