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Posted

I made hatch boards version 3.0 recently.

 

The 1.0 iteration I made like raised panel doors. Great idea but I made the rails to thin to maximize the plexiglass and the small glue area didn't hold up to the abuse. 

 

The 2.0  version I got the brilliant idea to just make a full piece of plexiglass and add some rails bonded to increase the thickness. My dad used to say "it was a good idea, but not a great idea". The plexiglass, not being recessed, got beat up fast and the expansion of the wood meant the rails got loose and only the mechanical fasteners held it together. 

 

Version 3.0 pictures coming. An oval plexiglass window recessed into a mahogany hatch board, with an okume keeper similar to the way the cabin portlights were done.  I will tell you, cutting accurately to a scribed line and then sanding/planing to a line takes time. And the accuracy isn't as great as the port windows Alan sent me years ago. At the time I bought a "kit" I thought I made a compromise. It was a great decision. 

 

FTR, I saw Amos's sailing video recently on FB. It snowed here today, but another month or so. 

  • Like 1

Posted

Pics: 

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The Mahogany has the newness. Out in the sun for awhile it will eventuall match the lower board. 

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I wanted to keep the boards varnished. While I had some 12mm Okume which would be best, I just don't like it's look. The trim ring is 6mm, and I'll allow it.

Even though the board is a two piece glue up, with the growth rings alternated, the board wanted to warp ever so slightly, which is why I added the stiffeners. 

 

Next project, pop up stern cleats like Amos has. I should be sailing soon!

  • Like 1
Posted

I added some Pop Up rear cleats. Amos had him on Clarissa and I was envious. I have the D-Rings out the stern which most of the time are good. But often someone throws me a line during a raft up or I want to run a spring line from the stern and I have nothing to tie to.

 

So last week I shaped a couple of Douglas Fir blanks that would fit under the coming and give me a thicker place to bolt the cleats to. I coated the fir with two coats of clear epoxy (had to uncrystallize it again....ugh!) and glued them into place with thickened epoxy. I used these cleats which seem pretty decent and bedded them in. A big challenge was getting a socket wrench in to tighten, but I managed. I used the Sea Dog 4 1/2" cleats. They seem pretty good. 

 

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I post this for those building. It sure would be easier to put the blanks in there during construction than after, even if you decided you never needed them.  

 

Take care, 

Steve

  • Like 2
Posted
On 4/28/2025 at 1:02 PM, Steve W said:

 

I added some Pop Up rear cleats

 


I will likely do this as well to my CS17 (folding or popup cleats.). Curious, how far forward of the transom did you place them?

 

And, I’ve been thinking about making a second companionway hatch cover. Currently it’s a single piece and stowed masts prevent me from lifting it out without also lifting the masts to provide the room.  I plan to cut three boards to stack in the hatchway (that will prevent water from seeping in), each being able to be removed while the masts are in the stored position. 
 

Always SOMETHING to do, eh?

Posted

I put the just forward of my opening holes for a few reasons. You can see the Skeena lettering in the preious picture and here. There was a possibility they would show, and also, having a pull point not exactly in the corner is just better here. I still intend to use the stern lines on the D rings shown,.  

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Yes, there is always something to do. 

 

  • Like 2
  • 1 month later...
Posted

I am sure this deserves it's own thread, but since this is personal, I'll keep it here. When I fitst saw Graham's 3D drawings of the CS 20.3, I was smitten. I studied them pretty hard and the only thing bugging me was the possibility I couldn't sit aganst the hull on the berths. Enter Doug Cameron who pm'ed me. He'd build the prototype and extended an invitation to come see "Look Far" in Tennesee. I had an opprtuunity to swing by on the way to deliver my father's car to Florida. 

 

I spent 4 hours talking boats, taking measurements to make sure I could get Skeena out of my basement, and just life in general. I didn't want to leave. Doug and I stayed in touch off and on in corespondence.  I watched all his activities in the EC and other things and admired his spirit and kindness. I thought we'd cross paths again, but it wasn't meant to be. 

 

Boys and Girls, use those boats. The next sail isn't garaunteed. Fair Winds Doug. Myself and our/your community will miss you. 2014-01-14FloridawAlex(11).thumb.jpg.28c5c24df50fb1bd636563311015db01.jpg

 

Take Care,

Steve

  • Like 2
Posted

Steve,

"I spent 4 hours talking boats, taking measurements, and just life in general. I didn't want to leave."

One way of honoring someone is by paying it forward. You were kind enough to extend the same invitation to me, and I am very grateful. Had my 11' Shellback out for the 1st time this Saturday up in Pultneyville playing in the big stuff on Lake Ontario. If you have a hankering for big swells in a small boat, come on up!

  • Like 2
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Like Bob Dylan in 65, Skeena has gone electric, at least most of the time. 

 

How this happened. I put a 6HP motor on Skeena that had frward and reverse. Magical to have reverse. But the size and weight weren't great. So it was back to the Suzuki 3hp. 

 

Then I got enticed by the Epropulsion Spirit 1.0

 

I started looking at revues (mostly very positive, a few not) and dreamed of a quiet electrical experience with reverse. As a 6 year owner of a Chevy Bolt, I'm a huge electric fan. Low (no) maintenace, whisper quiet, lots of torque, no gas vapors, full tank every morning, no more gas station junk food, etc. 

 

So I bought one. Got it a few weeks ago. Sadly, unlike any other outboard I've ever seen, the tiller doesn't tip up and so it wouldn't fit in the space I'd created for my Suzuki. Grrhhh! 

 

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Who designed this thing? But I wasn't giving up. I bought an extension cable for the battery and a lid that replaces the battery. 

 

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I routed the extension into the Starboard aft compartment where the Battery now lives at it's front. This keeps the weight of the battery off the stern a bit. Used a SeaView Cable Gland. A really great product to keep the compartment water tight. 

 

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Here is the motor on Skeena. I do have to rotate the motor 90 degrees and before I tip up to accomidate the tiller handle (dumb). 

 

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While I don't have any video, I wil say that this expencsive toy is a joy. I backed into a slip in Burlington Vermont while I was talking on my cell phone. Incredible. 

 

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I do have range anxiety and less money. At 3.2 knots in calm seas it goes 8 hours. More to come.   

  • Like 1
Posted

Jonathan, 

 

I wrapped it in the foam it came in and tuked it in the forward part of the aft locker. This weekends project is to come up with a better plan.  

 

Paul, 

 

Your install was an inspiration. 

 

 

Posted

I took Skeena on a low wind shakedown yesterday before I head to Maine August 2nd fr two weeks sailing out of Rockland. A couple of thoughts: 

 

1. I love this boat. When you spend as much time as I did building, it would be a bummer if it wasn't waht you thought. 

 

2. My sails need a bit of work. The batten pockets stitching and some other areas need attention. Time to get to work with needle and thread. The clock is ticking. 

 

3. A video. She sails herslelf:  

 

  • Like 4
Posted

Looking good Steve!   Glad you are enjoying your electric outboard.  The most asked question about Kalos electric drive is “how far can you go?”  I honestly don’t know but we do really enjoy the electric auxiliary drive.  Initially I had “range anxiety “ but that seems to have evaporated.  The instant torque makes messing around in the marina so easy.  I would like to convert our Core Sound 20.3 to an electric outboard.  

  • Like 2

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