CS17 #260

[wkisting]

I thought about scarfing in but was worried with the existing pressures present, that the scarf wouldn't hold, or could create additional weak points.... I could just use the dremmel multimaster and cut my scarfs in. My only though is as long as the big block is hidden under the deck it's not to big a deal....

I overlooked your point that the block is adjustable. If you can adjust out the flat spot, that's probably fine. I would share your concern about scarfing in a piece running a slight risk of creating additional weak points. Personally, I would glue on another stringer of the same thickness spanning the original butt joint by 12" to either side. Clamp with plenty of clamps, and I suspect you would get a very fair curve. Run a dry test first... it wouldn't take much to try it. If it works, glue it on and you're set.

But yes, if the block is adjustable, you're probably right that it could work fine too. Only potential problem I see is that it looks to me like the bolt heads will be in the way of the stringer that runs on the underside of the INSIDE edge of the side decks when you get to that point.

[ecgossett]

I overlooked your point that the block is adjustable. If you can adjust out the flat spot, that's probably fine. I would share your concern about scarfing in a piece running a slight risk of creating additional weak points. Personally, I would glue on another stringer of the same thickness spanning the original butt joint by 12" to either side. Clamp with plenty of clamps, and I suspect you would get a very fair curve. Run a dry tenst first... it wouldn't take much to try it. If it works, glue it on and you're set.

But yes, if the block is adjustable, you're probably right that it could work fine too. Only potential problem I see is that it looks to me like the bolt heads will be in the way of the stringer that runs on the underside of the INSIDE edge of the side decks when you get to that point.

I just fitted in the stringer, and the bolts clear it!! I had tried a stringer of the same size inside, and clamped it on, the problem was it was bending to much... With everything (skin) epoxied to the existing one I wound up doing a beam that would be thicker and withstand existing forces better.

[wkisting]

That's good news. In that case, I wouldn't sweat leaving the block in place. Sounds like you've thought it through and found a workable solution. To my eye, the pic on your blog showing the deck edge made it look like your bolt heads would block the stringer. As long as you've checked for clearance, there shouldn't be a problem then.

[ecgossett]

That's good news. In that case, I wouldn't sweat leaving the block in place. Sounds like you've thought it through and found a workable solution. To my eye, the pic on your blog showing the deck edge made it look like your bolt heads would block the stringer. As long as you've checked for clearance, there shouldn't be a problem then.

See attached

[ecgossett]

That's good news. In that case, I wouldn't sweat leaving the block in place. Sounds like you've thought it through and found a workable solution. To my eye, the pic on your blog showing the deck edge made it look like your bolt heads would block the stringer. As long as you've checked for clearance, there shouldn't be a problem then.

See attached

[ecgossett]

Two big questions:

1) How much sail track do I need for the CS17, and does anyone have measurement recommendations for installing? The plans don't have anything on track.

2) My last gallon of epoxy from B&B is white colored. It's very thick, and even after a hardener is mixed is like working with jelly. It will dry, but does not want to soak in well. I have tried warming it in water, but the temperature is averaging 60-80 degree F outside. Any ideas?

- Edward

coresound17.blogspot.com

[John Burritt]

Sounds like the resin has crystalized. Usually the result of it getting too cold. Not a problem. Just heat the jug in some form of a double boiler (or if you're brave enough, brief stints in the microwave) and the crystals should disappear. Doesn't hurt the epoxy, but the crystals can tear up the seal on a pump if you're using one. Check you're ratios again. Also watch where you're storing the resin. If its on a concrete floor, the concrete will suck the heat out of the resin quicker than you would imagine.

[ecgossett]

I pulled the first seat channel off the mold today.. It was a little tough as I had duty yesterday, so it cured in place for 2 days. Pulling the plastic off was tough because it seemed to stick more as the cure time go longer. It also means I have to use a drimmel to trim it instead of a simple box knife while it is still curing..

In the back of the mold I put a board the size called for the aft board in the plans, so I can drill the hinge holes into it.

On average I used two layers of glass with corners etc re-enforced to 4 layers. Everything over laps so strength also increases.

- Edward

http://coresound17.blogspot.com/

[Jim Stumpf]

Hello Edward,

Please take no offense, but why are you making the gutters more work than they need to be? Built to the designers specs it only takes a couple of hours. I hope these pictures help.

Jim

[ecgossett]

Those are the first good gutter photos I've had... Thanks!

[Jim Stumpf]

Edward,

If it helps all of my build photos are at https://picasaweb.google.com/jamesjstumpf/CoreSound17Number284#

Jim

[Twetmore]

If it makes you feel any better, I built the gutters to plans specs except a little larger than called for and ended up spending a lot more time on them than I was planning. I built and installed them after the seat tops were on which was probably my first mistake, it required that everything had to be scribed to fit exactly. It was also not easy to work in the tight areas. Jim's pictures make me look back and think how much time a may have saved if installed prior to set tops going on. The trouble I had was getting the hatch covers to match the gutters exactly. Going back, I would make them exactly as shown on the plans and doing it before installing the seat tops. I probably had 25 hours+ on four hatches.

[Twetmore]

Jim,

What did you use to create the 1/8" space between the hatch front and the gutter front? I can't think of anything that would be easy to use for this. An 1/8" rip out of 2x material doesn't seem like the best idea.

Thanks,

Tom

[Jim Stumpf]

Jim,

What did you use to create the 1/8" space between the hatch front and the gutter front? I can't think of anything that would be easy to use for this. An 1/8" rip out of 2x material doesn't seem like the best idea.

Thanks,

Tom

Hey Tom,

I rip'd a piece of scrap ply.

Jim

[hokeyhydro]

Hey Tom,

I rip'd a piece of scrap ply.

Jim

Or you could snip a piece out of the backer board on a (furniture) dresser or china chest. That's usually a tad over 3mm ply, standard backer board. Hey, it's the end against the wall! Who's gonna notice?

[Brent]

Hello Edward,

Please take no offense, but why are you making the gutters more work than they need to be? Built to the designers specs it only takes a couple of hours. I hope these pictures help.

Jim

Jim, I always enjoy seeing pictures of your work, very nice.

From the perspective of having used a Core Sound for 8 years now I feel a responsibility to make a small suggestion.

Note the small area between the outboard end of your gutter system and the hull batten. The ply bridging this gap will take large loads when crew steps on the hatch. Occassionaly crew will be making this move with great haste, and the resulting loads will be very large. By tying the gutter into the hull batten greater support can be provided for those occassional large load situations, thereby greatly reducing the opportunity to crack the seat deck ply.

Also note that by putting hatches in both forward and aft sections of the seats the primary emergency flotation in the boat can be easily compromised in a capsize by a loose hatch cover. If I had been in deep water I could have lost my boat due to the very same. I have since permanently closed the forward seat compartment, and installed a bulkhead reducing the accessible area in the aft compartment by half. In addition to now having plenty of reserve buoyancy, I also loose less stuff in these large lockers while still having plenty of storage for expeditions.

[Jim Stumpf]

Jim, I always enjoy seeing pictures of your work, very nice.

From the perspective of having used a Core Sound for 8 years now I feel a responsibility to make a small suggestion.

Note the small area between the outboard end of your gutter system and the hull batten. The ply bridging this gap will take large loads when crew steps on the hatch. Occassionaly crew will be making this move with great haste, and the resulting loads will be very large. By tying the gutter into the hull batten greater support can be provided for those occassional large load situations, thereby greatly reducing the opportunity to crack the seat deck ply.

Also note that by putting hatches in both forward and aft sections of the seats the primary emergency flotation in the boat can be easily compromised in a capsize by a loose hatch cover. If I had been in deep water I could have lost my boat due to the very same. I have since permanently closed the forward seat compartment, and installed a bulkhead reducing the accessible area in the aft compartment by half. In addition to now having plenty of reserve buoyancy, I also loose less stuff in these large lockers while still having plenty of storage for expeditions.

Thank you Brent,

Your suggestions are greatly appreciated. I fought with the idea of loosing the air chambers forward in exchange for some additional storage and your concerns have great merit backed with real life experience. I will have to consider a couple of air bladders like kayakers use.

I hope that future builders will see your note about bridging the gutter to the seat stringer, although it is a little late for me. I have used Merranti which is pretty strong/ rigid stuff hopefully I will not have issues, I am not sure how easily I can make that correction at this point.

Thanks again, that is what I love about hanging around here.

Jim

[Randy C.]

Jim,

Your seat gutters look good. I was thinking of putting a small piece of non-slip on the seat just above where the divider is. That way people stepping on the seats will know where to put their foot, so they won't step in the middle where there's no support. Just a thought.

Randy

[ecgossett]

Just finished priming out the cockpit of the boat. The forward area under the forward seats has two coats and is ready for Interlux Perfection to finish it off. The seats are going to be bolted in so they are removable, for possible future upgrades or easy access.

Also a photo of what the installed fiberglass seat channel looks like. On the backside of the fiberglass channel I did use the small board called for by the plans for the hinge screws to attach into. The channels turned out pretty well, minus having to dewax the insides.

- Edward

http://coresound.blogspot.com

[ecgossett]

I have my sister visiting for the weekend and helping on the boat.

I finished all the measurements for the middle mast. 123 inches from the boat at 36 inches high. 3 degree angle or 1 inch every 20 inches. Double checked with an angle measure.

On the bad side I have to move the seat 2 inches back from where I had originally figured. Oh well I needed a place to mount floor boards for a bed later anyhow.. Looking at other photos I don't think I'm the first one to cut out two much on the trunk for mounting the seat.

Edward