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hokeyhydro last won the day on September 1 2014

hokeyhydro had the most liked content!

About hokeyhydro

  • Birthday 07/06/1943

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    East BugSplat, NC (New Bern)
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    full time slacker and nap addict

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  1. FAA just released Advisory Circular AC 91-57c with the rule. Multirotors NOT drones have shaken up easent hobby of RC airplanes because they are so easy to operate any idiot can fly one. Read the AC and join the Academy of Model Aeronautics if you decide to try flying models.
  2. anything below 50 F and I hibernate and just read about boats. Around 80 F I go to WEST Tropical hardener for any batch over a couple spoonfuls. Over 90 F and I hibernate in the A/C and think about boats.
  3. My active boat building, last builds a pair of B&B Diva kayaks, came to a screaching halt last fall while I prepared to put my house on the market, and now I in full pack up mode for the move. Must go - Six (6) sheets of 6mm 5 ply BS-1088 okoume marine plywood, one (1) 8 quarter (2") X 5" X 16' cypress, one 4 quarter (1" surfaced to 7/8") X 8" X 16' cypress and a half dozen stips about 1" X 1" rounded one corner. Looking at more than $400 of wood but $250 cash and you can haul it outta my garage. I will toss in plans for CS-15 and CS-17. Bill AKA hokeyhydro wjhuson43@gmail.com 252-474-4780 Wood sold to John!
  4. Sending good thoughts your way, Carla, hope to see you back in action soon
  5. Several years of Wooden Boat magazines up until recently. Free, you pick up. CS-15 plans and several parts, bulkheads, cedar strip rudde & cheeks, centerboard, not shaped. Free, you pick up. CS-17 plans, free youi pick up. Might be more, still digging out garage. Location New Bern James City area near Coastal Carolina Regional Airport. Contact wjhuson43@gmail.com or 252-474-4780 Bill Huson
  6. Another epoxy trick which has nothing to do with boats, unless it is a flying boat (seaplane). I used WEST to glue a 1/32" thick balsa skin to a foam core wing. The foam core I cut out of a bead board block with my hot nichrome wire rig. This is a small plane - 1/2 size "Tiporare" aerobatic pattern plane - with a 32" wingspan so weight was a concern and 6 lb/cu ft balsa soaks up WEST like a sponge. Trick = I gave the balsa skin a quick coat of 50/50 thinned nitrate dope which semi-seals the wood but leaves plenty of grab tooth for the epoxy. Then I filed 1/64" nootchs about 1/8" apart of the edge of an expired AARP plastic card and mixed goo. Goo is spread out with smooth edge then screeded off with notched edge leaving thin ribbons of goo, plenty to glue skin on foam. Foam core with both sides skinned is put in my wing press and gently squished for the cure. Figure roughly 400 squre inchs of glued on skin with less than 15 grams of epoxy. cool . . .
  7. Resin in cool temps will form "crystals" which will appear as white flakes in the resin. B&B resin seems less tolerent to cool temps than WEST and you may see a copuple inches of white cloudy goo settle to the bottom of the jug. If you attempt to pimp out a squirt all systems clog. Solution: put resin jug in a pail of worm/hot water. I set it up in the kitchen sink and let freshly heated water trickle into the pail to speed things along. Soon the resin will clear and you're good to go. Bottom line - keep your resin in room temp = 70+ F.
  8. I glass each side seperately and allow the overlap to beef up the edge.Fiberglass will go aound a compound curve to a degree before one has to clip a dart, and if you have a strip cut on bias - weave 45 degrees to direction of strip - you can wrap that around a serious compound curve. Don't fret to much, just do it - CB first and then the rudder where you8 can employ your new skillset.
  9. I am convinced precoating is the way to go. One trick I tried is noodling out areas that would be receiving glued in panels and/or taped joints and then while the precoats were still wet I ran a strip of 2" wide peel ply tape on to-be-glued/taped areas and squeegeed it down. This negates any amine blush problem and leaves enough "tooth" for epoxy to grab onto after you peel the peel ply off. Two boats that way, zero problems. If you are bending 4mm into a fairly severe curve while stitching it up, a well cured epoxy joint will fight you, especially if the coated side is the outside curve. Solution: Plan to coat the wood, then stitch it up while the epoxy is still green and quite flexible.
  10. Rebar tie wire - I recall that coming in a magazine-like strip with wires sized 4", 6" or whatever, with loops on the ends. Wrap around rebar, hook twister gizmo in, twist = done. But while building pools we also used soft steel wire we called "gunite wire". We would run that at the upper and lower edge of the gunite shoot and tension it really tight. After the gunite gunner got done blowing aitr placed concrete on the wall, a screeder guy would run the screed along the really tight gunite wire to trim off the excess. I do not know what kind of wire it was exactly, but it would have done stitch & glue just dandy. We could tighten that wire to a high C note over 50 meters and I never saw one break.
  11. No debate in my mind. Test run a powerboat with a round edge transom, then use goo to square it up and test run again. You will a noticeable speed improvement. Only the bottom edge needs to be squared, the rest of the edges are better left with round off.
  12. There are different alloys for different applications, and the grill maker may have chosen that SS alloy because it was better for the purpose. The recycler magnet test could have been to roughly classify the alloy for perspiration into the correct pile. On plastics, over the years I have discovered that in an application where zip ties are exposed to sunlight - UV - black ones last but white ones give it up after a year, maybe two.
  13. Looks like the no-name 6mm ply I have. So far I've had zero problems with it, and unlike PeteP's experience sheets and leftover bits stay flat. Works, but not as nice as Joubert.
  14. Chinese ply will have thin outer skins. If you're finishing bright you'll have to very, very picky when doing scarfs. A little bit off and you'll grind through the outer ply when fairing the not-so-perfect scarf. Other than that the Chinese ply works, but a brand name, Joubert is the one I can source in my area, is real nice stuff. Except for that dang sticker . . .
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