Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


wkisting last won the day on April 2 2014

wkisting had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

14 Good

About wkisting

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 08/30/1977

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Augusta, GA

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I completely forgot to come back and mention this, but I listed the CS20 on eBay. If someone gets this at the minimum bid, they'll be getting an unbelievably good deal. I can live with that. I really need the space back in my garage with other projects underway. Less than 24 hours left: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2008-B-B-Yacht-Designs-Core-Sound-20/254349076205
  2. *bump -- Any thoughts from those of you who have sold/seen Core Sounds in the past? Is the $12-14K range about right?
  3. Location is Augusta, GA. By chance, very recent circumstances have made me highly motivated to sell, and price is negotiable.
  4. Hi all, Very long time since I last posted. I hope everyone is well. Sorry to post out of the blue, but I'm in the midst of another boat build--a 28' river cruiser with sleepaboard accommodations--and since our last girl was born five years ago, we've barely used our Core Sound 20. I hate to part with it, but I have too many boats, no garage space, and probably another year to go on the river cruiser/houseboat. I'm wondering what you all think might be a fair selling price? The boat is made with top quality materials and several nice touches (drop in berth boards, a little gimbaled cook stove, Lowrance GPS/depthfinder combo unit, a basket for binoculars/horn/anemometer, etc.). All parts are BS1088 Okoume plywood except the bottom panels, where I took another builder's suggestion to go with denser, more dent-resistant BS1088 Meranti. All exterior surfaces (hull, deck, open cockpit) sheathed in 'glass. Raka epoxy. Bow/keel trimmed in stainless steel for impact resistance. Transom has custom outboard mount that attaches/removes almost like a trailer hitch receiver (but nicer, custom built by a steel fabricator). I also have a nice frame for a dodger with mounts on the boat, though we never had time to get it canvassed. All parts are built to the original "Mark 1" plans, except that I took another builder's suggestion to add about an extra inch of curvature in the forward deck for aesthetic reasons. At another builder's suggestion, I also slightly increased the profile of the slim keel to reduce slippage in waters too shallow to drop the CB very far (works great!). The aluminum masts are built from top-grade parts supplied by Graham/B&B as spec'd, except that the foremast has a custom milled removable extension at the top so the overall length of the mast is easier to fit on the trailer and in a garage (I have a folding tongue on the trailer, as well). Fungus resistant VC Performance (teflon impregnated) paint on the hull. Easy to apply Systems 3 WR-LPU paint in the cockpit. Mahogany rub rails, hatch trim, and cockpit coaming trim. Sails are slightly oversized and were purchased from Graham/B&B as well. Sale would include everything: boat, trailer, sails/rigging (which show some wear but have a lot of life left), 2008 3.5hp Suzuki outboard (perfect match, in my opinion), GPS/depthfinder, battery system with integrated charger and master off switch--basically, everything you need to go sailing right away. I might even be able to dig up my old web files which where I had meticulously detailed the build years ago, as they have a lot of great information about materials, etc. The only "issues": needs a good cleaning and would probably benefit from fresh varnish on the bright deck. Keel near the stern has moderate damage where the paint was rubbed off by scraping rocks or jumping off the keel rollers, but in every case, the area was immediately dried, fixed, and re-sealed with epoxy (i.e. purely cosmetic--only matters if you care about the look of the keel under the water, with a few epoxy-wood blemishes showing through the white hull paint). There are a few random scrapes and dings, but nothing significant and all very minor cosmetic issues--about what you would expect to see after a boat has been in the water a dozen times. Always well cared for, there is zero rot, and really, the boat is darn near 'like new' except for the dust. Motor was properly winterized, but has not been run in ~ 2 years, so it needs the fuel and carb drained in my opinion (that's a long time for gas to sit, even though it has a good fuel stabilizer). Off the top of my head, I'm thinking maybe ~$14K, which would recoup most of the materials/equipment, but none of my labor, of course (I chalk that up to the fun of the build). Wes By the way, you can find several videos of the boat (with dubious production value) on YouTube here: - Sample setup time: https://youtu.be/DRecZZU8Pus - Drop in berth panels: https://youtu.be/FzTfw0f-I4g - Sample sail outing: https://youtu.be/Pdg1o8cfErk - Gimbal stove (DIY): https://youtu.be/FvHYlfJa6Y0 - Demo of motor noise/performance: https://youtu.be/96rN3Feankg A couple pictures (not recent... hasn't left the garage in ~2 years, but has been stored safely away from the elements/UV it's entire life, on trailer).
  5. What about stretching an uncut/unstitched piece of heavy canvas over the entire hatch opening with rib supports, with little (elastic? bungee shock corded?) side tabs sewn on either side (about every 6 - 8") that run down to little "cars" mounted on a piece of sailtrack on either side of the hatch. There would be no seams over the hatch to leak, and the cars should run smoothly to push the canvas forward to open the hatch, like sliding open a shower curtain. Haven't thought it through... there might be a design problem I'm not considering, but it seems like that kind of idea could be made to work without seams.
  6. Hi all, I'm hoping to finish the spray dodger for our CS20 this Spring. I built the frame last year and it came out great, and I have the geometry all worked out, but then I had to put it on hold because money was tight and it took me a long time to decide if I want to try my hand at sewing it (I've decided I do). I've seen the skin kits from Sailrite, but does anyone have a good recommendation where I should order the materials (Sunbrella fabric, facing, binding, basting tape, etc.)? I don't want to use snap fasteners and some of the other hardware Sailrite includes in their kits, and it also seems like they have an awful lot of markup in their kits (I already saved a bundle by sourcing and building the stainless support bows myself). I haven't really ordered fabrics online before, but it seems like for any given material or product, there's always a supplier out there who offers consistently good values. If you have any recommendations on reliable and affordable suppliers, please do let me know. Wes
  7. Rolando, are you wetting the cloth with enough epoxy? It may just be the lighting or perhaps a very thick or tight-woven cloth, but that cloth looks "starved" to me. The concern is that if enough epoxy isn't penetrating through to the wood (which should make the cloth almost entirely transparent, not white-ish), the fiberglass may cure without a strong bond to the wood. I had a friend who had that happen with a cedar canoe he built many years ago. After a few years of canoeing, he struck some rocks in a shallow river and the rocks sliced through the fiberglass and peeled it away almost exactly like unzipping a coat... leaving bare wood behind. When we went to repair the 2 foot area later, we were shocked how easily the entire bottom of the boat peeled away. So we ended up peeling it off and re-glassing the entire hull. Only explanation we could ever come up with was that he had starved the cloth when epoxying, so the epoxy was "held" in the cloth instead of passing through in plentiful enough volume to also bond strongly to the wood. That's also why many builders recommend applying an initial coat of epoxy to the bare wood before laying the first layer of cloth, then laying the cloth as soon as the "tackiness" of that first coat cures off. My apologies if you already know this or if I'm mis-reading the pictures. Just thought I'd mention it.
  8. My experience matches Dale's. Our CS20 is garage kept, so despite a lot of use in the Georgia sun, we were able to go 6 years without re-varnishing. I just applied 3 fresh coats this year for the first time, but I was surprised how good the old varnish had held up. If not for some scuffs and bangs from dropping a spar here and there, I probably could've gone a few more years without revarnishing! I use ZSpar Flagship varnish... expensive, but loaded with UV protection, weathers extremely well, and looks good too.
  9. Well, it turns out the steeplechase races are the same weekend. You might not know this unless you have daughters like I do, but horses beat sailboats--and daddy doesn't get to vote on it. So unfortunately, I won't be able to make the messabout. Very sorry to miss it, but I hope you all have fun and post pictures for the rest of us.
  10. Very nice... and that was kind of her to offer up some pictures. Once in a blue moon, I notice someone photographing our boat, and I always say to my wife, "I wish I could track that person down to ask if they'd send me a copy of the pictures!" I still don't have a single picture of my boat taken from the outside while I'm at the helm except for one my wife snapped on launch day in 2007. Your CS17 looks a lot like our CS20. Here's a recent pic from a few weeks ago, though, when we had a beautiful 8 hours of sailing, from Beaufort, SC to Hilton Head and back.
  11. Thanks Joe! If we drive up, we'll likely take you up on that offer.
  12. Pending good weather, I'm thinking about driving up with my daughter Bella again. This time, we might skip bringing the boat -- last year it was a bit overwhelming trying to manage launching/retrieving boat and keep track of a 2-year-old at the same time. Anyone else attending who might be willing to take on a well-behaved crew of 2 for a sail? Wes
  13. I used to get a ton of e-mails asking about the motor on my CS20 and how it performs. Here's the webpage I finally put up about that topic. It's a few years old, but I think most of the observations are still fairly accurate. Besides the Merc/Tohatsu and Honda options, I think Yamaha also makes a sub-4 hp motor also, which weighs somewhere in between those other two options. I think all of them are fine motors. The Honda has gotten a little lighter (minus a pound, I think) and a little more powerful (bumped up to 2.3 hp) in the last few years. http://www.roguepaddler.com/cs20w.htm
  14. Very nice! I have often said that if I was going to make any modifications to our CS20 (mk 1), I would raise the foredeck by about 8" and create a crawl-in cuddy space up front. This version looks much more spacious with a higher deck than I had in mind, but is right in line with the spirit of what I was envisioning. Almost tempts me to build one, but I'm so attached to the boat we have. The CS20, in any guise, is such a fine boat!
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.