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wkisting last won the day on April 2 2014

wkisting had the most liked content!

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About wkisting

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  • Birthday 08/30/1977

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    Augusta, GA

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  1. What about stretching an uncut/unstitched piece of heavy canvas over the entire hatch opening with rib supports, with little (elastic? bungee shock corded?) side tabs sewn on either side (about every 6 - 8") that run down to little "cars" mounted on a piece of sailtrack on either side of the hatch. There would be no seams over the hatch to leak, and the cars should run smoothly to push the canvas forward to open the hatch, like sliding open a shower curtain. Haven't thought it through... there might be a design problem I'm not considering, but it seems like that kind of idea could be made to work without seams.
  2. Hi all, I'm hoping to finish the spray dodger for our CS20 this Spring. I built the frame last year and it came out great, and I have the geometry all worked out, but then I had to put it on hold because money was tight and it took me a long time to decide if I want to try my hand at sewing it (I've decided I do). I've seen the skin kits from Sailrite, but does anyone have a good recommendation where I should order the materials (Sunbrella fabric, facing, binding, basting tape, etc.)? I don't want to use snap fasteners and some of the other hardware Sailrite includes in their kits, and it also seems like they have an awful lot of markup in their kits (I already saved a bundle by sourcing and building the stainless support bows myself). I haven't really ordered fabrics online before, but it seems like for any given material or product, there's always a supplier out there who offers consistently good values. If you have any recommendations on reliable and affordable suppliers, please do let me know. Wes
  3. Rolando, are you wetting the cloth with enough epoxy? It may just be the lighting or perhaps a very thick or tight-woven cloth, but that cloth looks "starved" to me. The concern is that if enough epoxy isn't penetrating through to the wood (which should make the cloth almost entirely transparent, not white-ish), the fiberglass may cure without a strong bond to the wood. I had a friend who had that happen with a cedar canoe he built many years ago. After a few years of canoeing, he struck some rocks in a shallow river and the rocks sliced through the fiberglass and peeled it away almost exactly like unzipping a coat... leaving bare wood behind. When we went to repair the 2 foot area later, we were shocked how easily the entire bottom of the boat peeled away. So we ended up peeling it off and re-glassing the entire hull. Only explanation we could ever come up with was that he had starved the cloth when epoxying, so the epoxy was "held" in the cloth instead of passing through in plentiful enough volume to also bond strongly to the wood. That's also why many builders recommend applying an initial coat of epoxy to the bare wood before laying the first layer of cloth, then laying the cloth as soon as the "tackiness" of that first coat cures off. My apologies if you already know this or if I'm mis-reading the pictures. Just thought I'd mention it.
  4. My experience matches Dale's. Our CS20 is garage kept, so despite a lot of use in the Georgia sun, we were able to go 6 years without re-varnishing. I just applied 3 fresh coats this year for the first time, but I was surprised how good the old varnish had held up. If not for some scuffs and bangs from dropping a spar here and there, I probably could've gone a few more years without revarnishing! I use ZSpar Flagship varnish... expensive, but loaded with UV protection, weathers extremely well, and looks good too.
  5. Well, it turns out the steeplechase races are the same weekend. You might not know this unless you have daughters like I do, but horses beat sailboats--and daddy doesn't get to vote on it. So unfortunately, I won't be able to make the messabout. Very sorry to miss it, but I hope you all have fun and post pictures for the rest of us.
  6. Very nice... and that was kind of her to offer up some pictures. Once in a blue moon, I notice someone photographing our boat, and I always say to my wife, "I wish I could track that person down to ask if they'd send me a copy of the pictures!" I still don't have a single picture of my boat taken from the outside while I'm at the helm except for one my wife snapped on launch day in 2007. Your CS17 looks a lot like our CS20. Here's a recent pic from a few weeks ago, though, when we had a beautiful 8 hours of sailing, from Beaufort, SC to Hilton Head and back.
  7. Thanks Joe! If we drive up, we'll likely take you up on that offer.
  8. Pending good weather, I'm thinking about driving up with my daughter Bella again. This time, we might skip bringing the boat -- last year it was a bit overwhelming trying to manage launching/retrieving boat and keep track of a 2-year-old at the same time. Anyone else attending who might be willing to take on a well-behaved crew of 2 for a sail? Wes
  9. I used to get a ton of e-mails asking about the motor on my CS20 and how it performs. Here's the webpage I finally put up about that topic. It's a few years old, but I think most of the observations are still fairly accurate. Besides the Merc/Tohatsu and Honda options, I think Yamaha also makes a sub-4 hp motor also, which weighs somewhere in between those other two options. I think all of them are fine motors. The Honda has gotten a little lighter (minus a pound, I think) and a little more powerful (bumped up to 2.3 hp) in the last few years. http://www.roguepaddler.com/cs20w.htm
  10. Very nice! I have often said that if I was going to make any modifications to our CS20 (mk 1), I would raise the foredeck by about 8" and create a crawl-in cuddy space up front. This version looks much more spacious with a higher deck than I had in mind, but is right in line with the spirit of what I was envisioning. Almost tempts me to build one, but I'm so attached to the boat we have. The CS20, in any guise, is such a fine boat!
  11. If it were me, I'd drill a small drain hole (1/8") at the bottom tip of the triangle to drain out into the cockpit. That way, any water that gets in can get out. That seems the simplest, lightest solution and the least likely to promote rot if your concerns about water intrusion are warranted. The other possibility--and probably the one I would actually choose--is just to be fairly liberal with the thickened epoxy when you bond the case together, and then carefully use a shaped stick (or some kind of makeshift tool) to reach down inside the case after assembly to create small fillets along the insides edges of the case. That should negate any likelihood of water intrusion also. You'll just need to be careful to clean up any mess to keep the inside of the case smooth before the epoxy hardens. [Edit to add: You could do the fillets on one side of the case before assembly, obviously, to make it easier. But the other side would need the shaped stick treatment.]
  12. It looks great! FWIW, I would want to 'glass the board before prepping the trunk. You'll want to know the final thickness of the board before you prep the trunk, won't you? That way you can get the trunk width/spacing exactly right.
  13. Good looking boat! Looks like a nice day for sailing, too. Thanks for sharing.
  14. In the video, you likely noticed that I have my main sheet set up to terminate at clam cleats positioned on the coaming on either side of the cockpit. I liked that setup and it worked well, but it meant the mainsheet ran across the seats, and I have little girls who somehow always seem to end up sitting on the mainsheet at that location, depriving me of sail control. Rather than waiting for the inevitable capsize, I went ahead recently and changed the mainsheet so that it now terminates in a swivel base cam cleat at the edge of the thwart. This means no more main sheet running across the seat tops, and it also makes the main sheet easier to release or re-engage because the cam cleats are noticeably smoother to operate than the clam cleats I had before. It also makes it easier to sit on the rail and hike out, which tended to put my legs in the way of access to the clam cleats. With the new hardware, it's much more convenient. And it frees up a little more seating space, too, since there's no clam cleat to jab you in the back if you try to sit in the wrong spot. Here's a picture. I know others have installed similar hardware (or fabricated their own versions). I just wanted to say that I really like this setup. BTW, these are Ronstan RF58 swivel base cam cleats. There are two (one on each side of the thwart), though only one is shown here, obviously.
  15. Just reporting back on the results... I tried sewing some velcro onto my batten pockets. I put a short strip of adhesive velcro on the end of each batten, then a sewed a matching strip onto the underside of the flap that closes each batten pocket. I'm fairly certain the velcro isn't strong enough to keep the flap shut if the sails flog vigorously (such as when turning across the wind or caught "in irons"). However, the velcro does prevent the batten from shifting upward or downward to work its way out from under the batten flap. So I still consider it an improvement because, although I still have to lace the batten flaps closed, I don't have to lace them so tightly as I did before. It didn't turn out like I was expecting, but I like it enough that, although I only did the mainsail so far, I'm going to do the mizzen the same way.
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