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CS17 #260


ecgossett

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Worse... It's an exact 12" 7/8" to long.. Somehow I measured my last 36" off of the forward bulkhead line for the bottom instead of the right place.... This changes the hull shape a little as well. Not sure if I need to tear the fiber glass off and recut the forward curve.. Would it be easier to extend the boat the 12"?

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Hmm, now I am confused.  Is something too long? or too short?  Making something that is too long shorter is easy.  You may have to cut more than just the end off.  You may have to lay out the entire piece again.  But it can be done.  Your posts are short and vague, or maybe I am.  I would do what ever it takes to build the boat to specs.  To hap-hazzardly try to form a new design will come to no good.  If it were that easy we wouldn't need Graham. 

I suggest you first prove exactly and beyond all doubt what you did wrong.  Then decide how to go from there to making exactly the pieces you need.  If that means taking stuff apart, then so be it.  But until you are absolutely sure what went wrong, I would do nothing.  And if you need the help of people here, take some pictures, and post them along with a more detailed description of the discrepancies as you see them.  I don't think anyone can offer any useful advice based on 2 short and conflicting posts.

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From the forward end of the bottom I made it to long... Basically the curve forward is a foot to long. My measurement was done off the forward bulkhead instead of the last 36" mark. This made the forward bow point to far off.

I've made my mind up... I'm going to cut the bow point fiberglass apart (used to butterfly), and reloft the forward 48" of the boat.. Should fix the problem. Lesson learned...

I attached a photo to show.. The black line is what I should have made my twenty something inch measurement off on the bottom. The green line is the fwd bulkhead measurement which I used wrongly. I just roughly drew the colored lines in paint to describe the problem. It should be easy to reloft and cut the little bit on the bow.

Later, Edward

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I've made my mind up... I'm going to cut the bow point fiberglass apart (used to butterfly), and reloft the forward 48" of the boat.. Should fix the problem. Lesson learned...

If your evaluation of the problem is accurate, and based on your description you seem satisfied that it is, then that would seem like the thing to do.  It is easy when you are frustrated to compound a problem by simply adding to it instead of stepping back and correcting it.  No need to ask me how I know this.  :crazyeyes:

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Here's a photo of my new lofting for the front..

Basically I used a drywall square, and a regular square ruler as I had not edge anymore for the measurements. The drywall ruler has a horizontal and vertical measurements. I would set something like 6 inches vertically lining up with the edge. Then horizontally I would goto 12" which I was off and use the regular ruler at a 90 degree angle and see how far away that edge was.. The different between the two numbers is how much I would off set my new point... This kind of sucks but it works to redraw the angles.

For cutting the 1 foot of fiberglass apart a friend loaned me a diamond blade tile cutter rotary saw... This blade was thin and didn't cut the wood and sliced through the fiberglass like butter.

Later, Edward

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Fixed my problem with the bottom...

I'm wondering how much higher is the bow supposed to be then the transom? I've looked at the plans and cannot figure it out but want to do the tube/water method of leveling the boat.

Also on some CS's I noticed the inwale is installed before bulkhead positioning and filleting and taping begins.. Is this normal?

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Edward, roll out your plans, draw a line parallel to the waterline through the tip of your stem. Using a architect rule read off the distance above transom ( mind the scale!). Clamp a vertical stick to your transom and at the established height pull a string to the stem. Hang a bubble level on the string and level the boat. You should be level fore and aft. Using that string you can establish your seat tops height. Pulling another string across the widest point gunnel to gunnel and using that same bubble level will level the boat athwartship. Use several winding sticks to make sure your boat is not twisted. You are plumb&square and ready to git'er done. PeterP

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I had someone who offered me a pile of beautiful yellow grain pine boards. He was planing some down to redo the inside of his boat... Other boaters told me it would be a mistake using yellow pine... Yet historically it was a great boat-building material and resists rot.

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Winding sticks allow you to see  if a boat (or board) has a twist in it. Get three or four pieces of 1x2 straight stock long enough to lay across the width of the boat. Spaced out every three/four feet. Then sight along down the length of the boat and you will see immediately if the sticks (hence the boat) are true or twisted.PeterP

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  • 2 weeks later...

On my forward bulkhead are the bottom cuts just supposed to be angled or curved as well? Curved it doesn't seem to fit very well.

The other problem is on the port side around the bulkhead line the wood as popped/bubbled in instead of outword. Not sure how to fix it.. Even standing on the bubble didn't seem to work. The wood seems to be kicking my butt.

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Two Problems .... Any Ideas?

1) between temp frame and forward bulkhead I had some wires break and have a crack between hulls... Even using clamps and a board under to push up wood cannot get it to go back together.. Can I live with this problem? It could have been slightly miss-cut.

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Regarding your first picture: those clamps are not very effective. Not enough power. The wood blocks pictured need to be duplicated on the other side ( outside of the boat ).Get a couple of good size C-clamps or pipe clamps and force the wood blocks together - on the outside. Clamping the outside will do two things - it will squeeze the ply together while torqueing it upwards. That is the way you need to go. Listen to the ply while you are at it -don't tear it up. Make sure you have the wood blocks securely fastened - plenty of screws to spread the load. As for your second shot: you could attach wood cleats/blocks to your bulkhead and then run long screws into them through the ply bottom (use fender washers to spread the load ). But you have to decide what to do because I cannot tell what the problem is exactly from looking at the picture. Always eyeball your work - sometimes you make things nice and tight in one place and end up with ugly old dish somewhere else as a result. PeterP 

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I know my front is slightly off due to having to re-loft the forward 3 feet. Not much I can do about that at this point with out considerable expense for more materials. I did the corrections on the forward bulkhead to make it fit.

Everything else seems to fit... It just seems that I burst some wire in unfolding. Probably shouldn't have used the rebar wire.

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