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Everything posted by smccormick
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If you have the ability to spray you may also consider automotive clear coat. I have used it on a number of projects and it has held up well. The wife's kayak is 15 years old and I buffed it for the first time last year. Looks like the day I sprayed it. Most epoxies will give you a nice clear finish. I have used west with and with out the special hardener, proset, raka and others. I could never tell the difference.
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Good luck on your new adventure. I hope you have a lot of fun doing it.
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I have the bracket boxes all glassed and only the rear most center box in the boat to do. Well, I almost have them done. The glass on the bottom of the last box decided to lift and create a ~three inch air bubble that now needs to be repaired. It happened after I did the peel ply and walked away. Checked on it a couple hours later and never even saw it developing. Laying out seacock placement, transducer, bilge pumps before I glass the rear bilge so I can isolate the core on the penetrations then add the top layer. Haven't taken any photos recently not much to be seen. Fuel tanks were supposed to be shipped this week but haven't heard anything on that yet.
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I can't decide for mine. Drain to the center, drain to the hull or keep isolated. I believe I will at least drain to the center compartments then maybe forward to the hull. May even go crazy and add brass tubes so I can plug them. So your build is getting a single engine.
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Chris, what's your thoughts on limbers for the bracket?
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It's only time, checking off one step after another. Before you know it, you'll be cruising the local waterways.
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Here's the photo I was going to post last week. Frank fixed whatever was wrong and I'm back on track... on the photo uploads, not the boat construction.
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I've looked at your little island via google, looks like a great place. I will get to the area at some point, when I drag the wife on a couple year global cruise at some point. Really want to spend time in the pacific islands diving and looking around. You shouldn't need to reduce the size of the photos. I load 3mb photos and the forum software creates small versions (thumbnails) for the page and shows the full resolution in the lightbox.
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From the looks of his progress he may be fishing on new years day.
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Very nice work. You sure are making fast progress.
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Good luck with your build. Look forward to following along.
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Making great progress. Looking nice.
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Here's where I am today. One compartment left to glass, the aft, mid. Some pumps and valves being dropped from my supplier on Wednesday. Then I'll poke some holes in the bottom of the boat, move the core away, glass, fill, glass, mount a groco bb-1 and fab a couple pump mounts. Oh, the joy of moving on to something else. I'll never forget to glass the stringers and frames before installation again.
- 243 replies
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I sure did. Up forward in the storage area i filled with structural foam all the way to the top of the keel. I don't like small areas for debris or water to accumulate. It also makes the storage area more functional for me. I considered doing that all the way aft, but realized that beside all the work and weight it added, I needed a channel for water to run aft and not contact or be blocked by the tanks. My compromise was to fill with some .750 ply I had as drop from the bracket transom. So I ripped up the scrap with a 16° miter (except the first 2 or so feet where the keel turns up a bit), fitted it and glued it in. I really like the result, a 3 inch wide flat flanking the keel giving a nice drain channel and an easy to clean and dry area. This will also allow the bilge pump to remove more water getting the suction port closer to the bottom. As for the space outboard of the log, I'm still thinking about that. When I was glassing I realized what you have already, there is no way for that area to drain. Theoretically, water shouldn't be able to get there, but as we all know water gets everywhere. The only viable solution for that area that I can come up with is pour foam and glass to create a "water tight" area. I haven't decided how or if I will address this area.
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Soooo, I'm not sure what happened to my last post. Was it too risque, with all that boat porn. Anyway, here for a second showing is what I have been doing for the last 6 weeks... On the boat. Glassing all the little boxes created by the frames and stringers. I have 22 of 25 boxes done, just the 2 center aft and the anchor locker to go. I should be working on it right now instead of typing this, but I'm procrastinating.
- 243 replies
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Very nice work. I'm always fascinated by seeing how others envision the end product.
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Very nice work. Summer can be trying for epoxy.
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I would call that carvel planking, longitudinal planks edge butted with a rolling bevel. I believe ashcroft specifically called for planking diagonal to the center line. Having said that, I think the concept is correct, two layers with planks overlapping the previous layers' joint.
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So the big day came and went. The boat is turned over. Like so many things in our lives, it didn't go according to plan. My intent was to hook the whole thing to the backhoe and drag it outside, then use the bucket to flip it. Well the rains came in this week and the ground outside of the barn is mushy (not paved). With more rain predicted over the following 5 or so days and then a couple more before the ground would firm up, I needed to go at it a bit differently. So plan B was implemented; manual flip inside the barn. That caused some rafter clearance issues and some small chainsaw modifications to the roll cage. Not a big deal just took a bit more time like everything else. More evidence that a plan never survives contact with the enemy.
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I love the cover. Inexpensive but very nice looking, hard to get that combination. Just a heads up. Epoxy doesn't like to be exposed to sunlight.
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Burnishing the bottom paint and building a cradle and roll cage. Probably a couple days out.
- 243 replies
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Alexseal primer sealer sanded and ready for bottom paint Interlux VC performance bottom paint applied.
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Here's where we are as of today. I really have been working on this thing even though it may not look like it. When I got back to working on the project I had to fill lots of 36 grit scratches and not quite filled depressions. Apparently a leopard can change its spots. After 3 weeks of sanding and 3, progressively smaller spot filling sessions, I sprayed the entire hull with high build primer. Will sand below the chine tomorrow and then apply finish primer/sealer. Then on to the bottom paint which will be VC Performance.
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Wear strips should be last, they are considered sacrificial and should be easy to replace. 10oz glass would be a good idea over the chines for impact resistance. But everything is a compromise, add weight and strength or go for light? Keep in mind that 10oz cloth is not very much glass and will not survive a good wallop on a rock. I would put glass under my feet for additional wear resistance but that is a personal preference and not for the weight conscious. Actually, I have looked into this and the densities of glass and resin are close enough that when a surface calls for 3 coats of resin only, I will always add 6 or 10oz cloth, there is no weight penalty to speak of. There are some accounts of resin only coatings failing in freezing conditions. The boat may not live in those conditions on build, but you never know where it's going to end up over it's long life. Definitely glass the hull, then add the keel. If you damage the keel the hull core remains water tight. Epoxy undercoats are going to be the most expensive but probably the best performing. I have used both single part (interlux pre-coat) and epoxy (alexseal 442 and 302 and others) I like both and they both have their place. If your top coat is 2 part then an epoxy primer is required. 2 part topcoat will be harder and more durable, therefore will show less wear under similar conditions. Keep in mind that I run my stuff hard and sometimes make decisions that are not in the best interest of my equipment. So I build with this in mind, erroring towards the tougher side rather than the light weight side. When I build boats that would be used by less aggressive users and I would back off a bit.
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That photo looks like just inside the Charleston Breachway.
