smccormick
-
Posts
298 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
26
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Everything posted by smccormick
-
Got back to the construction this week with more sanding. Knocked all those nice sharp corners off, boarded the entire hull with 80 grit, sanded all those inside radii. Got to thinking about shooting high build primer when the thought came to me, "why shoot high build on the bottom, it's straight and ready. Maybe just shoot sealer and top coat. Well I'm so glad I didn't. When I started shooting high build the contrast and shinier surface highlighted so many imperfections in my "ready for paint" surface, I was horrified. Boarded one half of the bottom today, looking much better. Should have it top coated by... well some time.
-
Like Howard, I'm in the camp of mixing my own adhesives from resin and fumed silica (IE: cabosil). I do this for a couple of reasons; First I am cheap, I want quality but if I can achieve similar mechanical characteristics and save money then that's a winner. If you're willing to use other epoxies, you can get you're per gallon cost to around half of what gelmagic costs. Second, by mixing my own, I can vary the viscosity to meet my needs. Peanut butter like for fillets, mayo for planking, a little thicker when it's hot, a bit thinner when it's cold. As for applying planking with unthickened epoxy, If I could guarantee my parts fit up and where clamped perfectly I might consider it, but I can't, so I would be very concerned about incomplete bonding. Straight epoxy will run out of joints with ease potentially leaving hollow areas or just as bad, starved areas in the planking. Most (pro) builders will use glass or fumed silica on glue lines to hold the resin in the joint and provide some excess to completely join the planking where parts are not held together perfectly. In the final analysis, I would prefer to have a little extra material (weight) in the joint and be relatively sure it was complete and sound.
-
May I suggest winding sticks that are much larger in cross section than .75", especially if they are pine. That size will be more prone to sagging and when the SFO fog starts rolling in, warping . If you want to make a pair to use on multiple projects (they are good for more than boat building) get some 8/4 (1.5" and rip 1 or 1.25" strips) red oak or sapele. If you are going to use once and throw away then some KD 2x3's from HD will work, but all of these will need to be flattened and parallel on the working sides. Easiest way to mill is with jointer and planer, but can also easily be done with a hand plane. The more accurate your tools the more accurate your boat. You can also use 6' levels for the same purpose. https://paulsellers.com/2014/05/making-winding-sticks-by-hand/
-
Can't agree with you more on this. <.002 or I start to freak.
-
Nice progress with your project. Look up "winding sticks" for judging and correcting your twist.
-
Thanks Robert, twice as long as I thought it would take.
-
Lots of square edges, I have been looking forward to this day for quite a while. Next up I need to ease all those edges and begin spraying alexseal 302 and sanding a bit more. Unfortunately, I'm busy with other things for the next couple of weeks so there she will sit. Here's an overview of the status today.
-
How google is run not chick.
-
While difficult to tell from the photos, the outer strake is parallel to the keel in the after portion not the chine.
-
Thanks for the advise, ended up doing this. Better for long term maintenance I suppose. Hadn't been a lot to show just glassing, shaping, sanding and filling, 3 rounds of fill I think.
-
-
Can google please fix google photos?
-
Was standing in the shade out on some road in winsor/healdsburg,ca. this weekend learning how to use tapatalk, while I crewed for my wife who was doing Vineman Ironman triathlon when I ran into the thread that advertised your CS17 for sale. I have been talking about doing the Watertribe event and thought why not go look at this boat, It's right here in town somewhere. I don't really want to build a boat for the event but this would be a nice shortcut. Then I kept reading and realized you had already bought it. Oh well. I really don't need another project anyway. Good luck with the build.
-
Sticking strakes to the bottom
-
Hey Farmboy, Glad to hear you're following along. I really don't have anything to show today. Maybe tomorrow if I can get it together. I have finished fairing (shaped, no highbuild/primer yet) the topsides and have moved on to lifting strakes and bottom work. But I have been distracted by nonproductive activities. Have you ever had a day where you just should have stayed in bed? I've had two weeks of that.
-
Thanks for chiming in guys, I was beginning to wonder if anyone was reading this besides my dad. When setting an expectation as to level of precision when doing anything, I always try to error on the side of excellence. Not trying to say I'm some amazing craftsman, just that I will have to live with the end results and will regret taking shortcuts. The reward of being finished will always be overshadowed by having to constantly look at a blemish that could have been remedied with a little patience. I'll probably be working past where most reasonable people would have said enough. Par, you are right on what we see first. I keep staring at the transom corners wanting to put sandpaper to them so I can see the shape, but somewhere along the line I learned to fair the corners to a sharp edge and radius as a last operation. It's worked for me over the years, but I so want to go at them. Maybe because to me, it means I'm done.
-
Topsides fairing moving along, maybe 80% + there. Of course, the conundrum is that if I assume the 80/20 rule I am only 20% done. Therefore, I can never get further than 80% because when I do, I am at 20% and I will never finish. Makes sense to me.
-
BEEP, BEEP,BEEP; that's the sound of me backing up. Sorry I read 1.8 mpg. Nothing to see here moving along. Sorry.
-
I'm no expert on prop performance or Etecs, but your economy numbers seem a bit off. I'm just guessing here, but that boat should be north of 3 mpg. You may be leaving some performance on the table with your selected prop. Here's a comparable performance bulletin for your review. Obvously not the same boat but certainly not any easier push. http://www.evinrudeuae.com/Content/Pdf/neutral/performanceReports/PE771.pdf Not trying to be argumentative, maybe I've been reading THT too much. Oh, and nice job on the new ride. Love the color.
-
Fair, fair, fair the boat Gently in the shop Merrily,Merrily,Merrily,Merrily Fishing's just a dream
-
welcome to the 256 club. Looks like you have 3 (of various types) going at once, how many employees do you have working on them? what's your budgeted hours?
-
And I kept going yesterday and today. On to the transom and bracket tomorrow.
-
And I got to it.
-
So I currently live in the Sacramento valley where the weather during the summer is HOT. A cool day during the summer is low 90's and it's regularly above 100. But it's a dry heat (for those who think that matters). As you can guess, that temp affects epoxy cure time drastically. I was hoping to take care of the large scale glassing before summer hit and I would have made it if not for some supply issues. Back about a month ago I was about to start glassing when i found out my supplier was out of peel ply. That took 10 days for restocking. The day I received my material summer showed up. Started glassing but it was just too hot for the epoxy package I had, so back to the supplier for some very slow hardener. Hey that's 14 days out. A couple of these showed up yesterday at my supplier so I ran up. Sloooowwww. So I have lost almost a month on my project waiting for materials. A bit frustrating, but I'm moving ahead again today.
-
Just looked through my photos and I didn't have any before the bottom of the bracket was planked. If you are really curious I am happy to shoot a couple from below to show the structure but it's really what is shown in the model on the BandB site.
