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smccormick last won the day on February 6

smccormick had the most liked content!

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About smccormick

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  1. Outboard advice

    I would think you would be good with any of the engines on your radar. I have been a fan of yamaha for years. A friend of mine got a 40 2s on his 13' whaler when I was a kid and he blew the rest of us away on speed. It was also very dependable. Later I put the same engine on my little whaler and it's been 23 years of excellence. I have spent some time on boats with newer 4s models and they generally perform quite well, with the exception of the 225 corrosion issues and the 350 fly wheel debacle. On the suzuki side, my dad had a 90's vintage 40. It was an enormous POS. Fast forward to spring of 2016, we ended up repowering his boat with a suzuki 250 and it's been a fantastic engine. Quiet, smooth, powerful, trouble free, economical. I think it gets 3.4 MPG at 35 MPH, give or take. Most of the time the most popular engine in a region will be the line best supported. If you feel you need a high touch ownership experience then go for the product with the best support. If you can handle just about everything that comes up, except warranty work, go with the best value. Of course, I like speed so I would go with the SHO or an E-Tec. OK, or the suzuki.
  2. Ocracoke 256 hull #2 Build

    I don't know how I talk myself into buying fast cure hardener every fall, "because the cold weather is coming and I'll need it". I just hate fast cure. It's low 50's out and it still kicks in the blink of an eye in the cup. Yes, a very small amount. Before I can get a few joints located and sequentially glued, I have a forest fire going in the cup. Note to self; Don't buy any more fast cure hardener! You don't need it.
  3. Everglades Challenge time again

    "The wind is coming up. Tell the boys they can commence with the race" Meade Gougeon(1938-2017)
  4. Outer Banks 26 #1

    That's really coming along beautifully.
  5. CPR Training !

    Speed and depth is critical.
  6. CPR Training !

    Maintain my cpr for professional rescuers cert every year. Good skill to have in our repertoire.
  7. Midnight wondering from the Ch. Mate

    So all of your questions have been well answered. I just wanted to answer the specifics of question 3, the bright transom on sport boats. I spent a good portion of my young life working on these boats and the answer, as always, is yes sometimes. Newer boats would be veneered with 4/4 or less or even vinyl wraps. Usually there is a step in the transom planking/layup at the boot stripe. The transom planking/veneer would then be glued to the existing structure and all would be planar. All of the boats I remember had the end grain exposed, so the topsides paint would end at the glue line or a bit onto the transom planking. Older builds would have mahogany/teak planking as a part of the structure connected directly to the transom framework and would be finished bright.
  8. Ocracoke 256 hull #2 Build

    Fairing the high build primer complete, just a few edges to touch. Need to spot fill a a couple of places, but not much. This is a huge step forward for me. Will be moving on to the deck build and tumble home bumpers next. Yay, something new. Here's a snicker for you. When I hear of guys using house paint and kills primer on their builds, I admit to cringing more than a little. Then I swept up the sanding dust from the high build fairing effort and realize that I have a $50 bill sitting in the dust pan. All of a sudden, kills sounds like a pretty good idea.
  9. Aussie Open OB-20 #26

    I like all the little customizations that everyone does. Pretty.
  10. Ocracoke 256 hull #2 Build

    Thanks guys, Lenm, The boards are sepele, they're part of the sub structure of the deck, a slight deviation from the plans and will be covered over. . For whatever reason, my planking had pulled the shear clamp out about .125" between the frames in the cockpit so I glued some 2 x 3 stock against the clamp to straighten it. I didn't want the 2 x 3's to remain in the finished boat so I needed to transfer that load to the covering board and wasn't confident that the .375" ply would be up for the job. Any epoxy fairing filler can go directly onto properly prepared/ground glass work. The grinding part is why I like to trowel on filler while the glass is still green stage. I use a combination of prepared fillers and shop made fillers. With a cost around one third, a majority of work uses shop made. This project uses all alexseal products. All the white surfaces and brownish spots you see in the preprimed photos above are fillers. The darker areas of the white fields is the glass showing through the filler, so it's a skim coat in many areas. But my goal is to achieve a fair surface without sanding any long fibers of the glass.
  11. Ocracoke 256 hull #2 Build

    The long and tedious task of fairing the interior edges and corners is nearly complete. A few coats of 302 high build added to create the illusion of progress.
  12. Early 50's Thompson runabout restore

    That is or will be a beautiful little skiff, I'm glad you're taking the time to save it. I would love to get my hands on a decent one myself.
  13. Painting

    You can use most of the two part paints below the waterline, they just can't soak for extended periods. I think two week is the limit of the paint I use.
  14. Summer Breeze - Core Sound 17, Mk-3

    I wish I lived closer to you Chick, I would be over there picking them up already. I have two flawless tanks for those 50's vintage engines. May let them go for less than an arm and a leg.

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