Ocracoke 256 hull #2 Build

[smccormick]

20 hours ago, Kennneee said:

Beautiful work Steve!

 

 

1 hour ago, lenm said:

Looking good Steve!

Are those pre-drilled holes in the engine bracket photo?

 

Thanks Guys

 

The dark spots are 1.25" (30mm) fiberglass dowels installed in the transom as both moisture barrier and crush collar for the engine mounting bolts.

[Riggs]

That's looking very nice there sir...  Very dusty 

[smccormick]

OH, the joy of progress.  Everything is sprayed with high build.  While I'm really over the sanding thing, the baby butt smooth finish is very satisfying.

 

[Lotus]

That`s looking great !! 

[Kennneee]

Steve- WOW!

[smccormick]

Thanks guys.

 

Not much has really changed, I've just been sanding.  But I finally bought a new phone and have a clear photo.

 

[Kennneee]

Sometimes it feels like the sanding will never end!

[smccormick]

Just had that conversation with the wife last night.  She mentioned that she didn't want to be the first to scratch it after seeing my finishing efforts.

[smccormick]

Bagging teak boards to the transom.

 

 

 

[smccormick]

Console and leaning post started.

 

 

[Lotus]

I like that transom teak !  Makes the hull so elegant .

Nice work smccormick !

[lenm]

Nice finishing touch Steve

[hightechmarine]

Nothing like a teak transom. Looks beautiful 

[Kennneee]

Elegant!

[hightechmarine]

I used the Awl Grip product called Awl Wood. This image has just three coats. One prime, I used the clear primer, and two finish. That sealed it until the rest of the painting was completed. Then 7 more coats. You can do 2 coats a day with light sanding in between. The say 8 years on a vertical surface. I hope so. It is hard as nails after it fully cures.

[smccormick]

On 10/25/2018 at 9:40 AM, hightechmarine said:

Awl Wood

 Thanks for the recommendation of awlwood.  I was going to do a clear LPU, but I think I may go with awlwood after reading up on it.

 

Everyone,

Thanks for the kind words on the transom.  I have spent many years on sportboats with all the teak trimmings and would like to do the cockpit too, but I'm just to cheap and lazy, and don't want the extra weight so this and the helm pod are the only teak going on it.  The toe rail will be sepele so if I get tired of maintenance I won't feel to bad about painting it.

[smccormick]

Trailer arrived last week.

[Hirilonde]

The more perpendicular to the sun, the more abuse it takes.  Small radius rounds and corners go first.

 

I'll be curious to hear from people who use such stuff a few years down the road.  The repair process is what I am skeptical about. It has a nice "wow factor" to start with.

[smccormick]

On 11/2/2018 at 9:46 AM, Hirilonde said:

The more perpendicular to the sun, the more abuse it takes.  Small radius rounds and corners go first.

 

I'll be curious to hear from people who use such stuff a few years down the road.  The repair process is what I am skeptical about. It has a nice "wow factor" to start with.

 

I'm right there with you.  I've always had boats with some amount of bright work and understand the commitment to keep it well maintained.   If I can extend service intervals I'll consider it a win.  Seems like it's always an experiment.

[smccormick]

All righty, I guess there was a database restore done.  We'll try this again.

 

Awlwood, one application of yellow primer and two fill coats of clear.

 

Sapele mahogony toe rails 1.125" tall, width tapering from the front at 4.125" to 2.875" at the shear downturn.  Rail continues to break at 2.875".  Top is slightly convex blending into the two edge radii.