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Core Sound 20 Mk 3 -- #4 "Chessie" . .

Pete McCrary

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Checking my notes concerning the check-ride for the Tohatsu 3.5 (with new fuel pump) shows distance covered at 21 nm, 4.9 hrs running time, and using ~ 2.4 liters of fuel.  Typical speed ~ 4 to 5 knots, rpm ~ 3,000 to 4,000.  Fuel rate ~ 0.4 liters/hr.  Mileage ~ 8.75 nm/liter.  But the running time included about 15 minutes of dockside idle -- so the traveling fuel rate and mileage were actually higher.


On a lighter and slightly frivolous note ... we've been considering various names for Chessie's tender.  She will be the micro+ nesting tender, a pram designed by Graham.  The "+" indicates that it's 6" longer than the original design.  The partially completed kit will be my major winter project.  Some names have already been sugessted: Minnie, Pluto, Skipper, Pam, etc.. Her mother ship, Chessie was named for our Chesapeake Bay and the C & O kitty:



Maybe Chessie would like to have a little mouse nearby -- so, how 'bout Micky Mouse's girl friend, Minnie.


Any and all uggestions for the tender's name will be welcome.


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So far -- the choice of the family (just Annie & I) is strongly leaning towards Steve's suggestion: "Catnip."  It's a short, one-word name that's apropos for the "tender" of the lead ship "Chessie."








The family kitties, Lucy and Paige, have access to the garage and find comfort there at night.  Even in the coldest weather!   They are company for me in the shop and are very curious.  Chessie's winter "slip" is on her trailer and in my garage/shop where the kitties like to explore all over my boats, work benches, etc.    Lucy is friendly to everyone.  But Paige hasn't been seen by anyone except Annie and me.  From inside [the house] or out, she can hear the door bell ring or a car door close -- and she immediately hides until the "coast-is-clear."

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Pete, Paige looks like our Cat Bootsie who is rarely seen. She is all black but does have white "boots". We have another one named Skeena and they are both typical wierdo cats. They both are allowed outside (we live out in the country) and sometimes disappear for a few days and skulk around but entertain us immensely. I never thought I'd be a cat person but .......

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Paige had a sister (same litter) -- and the sister (Laurie Dehu) was quite a bit larger, black all over except bright white for boots & mittens, throat, chest, and between hind legs.  A really beautiful cat.  She was a hunter and wouldn't stay in the yard and after about two years, she got run over returning from a hunt.  One time she brought home a rat that was almost her size.  Paige was the runt of a 6 kitten litter, and has always been shy and skittish and never leaves our 1/3rd acre yard.  And now she's almost 13 yrs old.  She has "lost her white mittens," and is all black (even her whiskers), except for small white patches on her throat, chest, and between her hind legs.  I say that she's modest -- and the white blazes are her necklace, bra, and panties.  The biggest game she catches are small moles.

Thanks for suggesting "Catnip."

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For the aft locker I didn't want to fool with a gasket.  Usually, rainwater (Chessie in driveway) doesn't pool inside the hatch UNLESS there is a wind-driven rain pushing the water past the edges of the hatch cover.  Small amounts will drain over the rabbit edge that is cut into the aft bulkhead.  However, with a driving heavy rain or any rain on the highway, the wind can force the rainwater past the rabbit's edge on the hatch opening..  To avoid that I've filed weep holes on each side of the hatch hinge and installed "gutters" on the inside of the hatch cover.  Notice the blocking that backs up the hinge screws -- the blocking extends higher than the edge of the rabbit, which allows water to flow past the edge and into the hatch.  The gutters should carry any water [that is] forced past the cover's edges down and outboard of the blocking and into the footwell thru the weep channels.


Gutters (1/2" thick) glued to back of hatch cover.



Weep channels filed into cover at each end of its hinge.



Ready for reinstallation.



Hopefully, it will work.  In warm weather it will be rain-tested either on the water and/or highway -- or with a garden hose.  Results will be reported.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I just finished Chessie's power distribution panel "in the rough."  It's mounted on the cabin's port-side of Blk 3.  It's assembled and mounted with screws without any need for glue.  That way it can easily be modified or completely removed if necessary.  The material is all 1/2" birch veneer ply except for the mounting bracket, which is ordinary pine.  Although there is no glue -- I will epoxy all surfaces.


I chose the port-side because I'm right-handed and working on that side is easier while sitting on the bunk or a stool on the cabin sole.  The inside electrical components are accessible by lowering the front panel which is on a hinge.


Here is my sketch of the mounting details:



The parts are shown here -- except for the shelf.



Here the bottom of the panel box has been hinged.  The hinged bottom will be screwed to support bracket which is shown alongside.



Showing the mounting details.



The assembly is ready for dry-fitting it to the support bracket.  Notice that the shelf is attached.image.thumb.jpeg.a04c134230ea1d71fdcca776e59b8fcc.jpeg


The support bracket has been screwed thru Blk 3 and into the cockpit deck support cleat.  The inboard edge of the panel box has been attached to the companionway framing.  Notice the cable coming out of Blk 3.  Within the cockpit coaming [on Blk 3] there is a 12 v. socket for shore-side charging of the battery.  It is "unswitched" and goes directly to the battery.  It has its own in-line fuze.  That cable will be covered by the distribution panel.



The hinged panel is dry fitted to Blk 3 and the support bracket.



Panel lowered for access to cabeling and back-sides of electrical components.



Panel in stowed position.  Note that shelf is in a high and handy position for a portable cabin light.  The light has 3 brightness for white and can be switched to red (one brightness).  The red can be switched to blink an "S O S."



I'm thinking of painting the panel white to be consistent with the cabin interior.  But I might finish it "bright."  Later, I'll post a photo showing the electrical components mounted into the panel.


Next up will be construction of Chessie's micro+ tender, "Catnip."

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Our boat is “pretty active “ at anchor in anything but a swimming pool, anything that was sticking out on our boat has been remodeled by my forehead.  I sewed up 2 fish type nets that attach outboard sides between bulkhead 1&2 to store our clothes and such.   She really sails brilliantly but at anchor you can have your drinks “shaken not stirred “. 

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For your elec panel of lumber core birch, especially because it is removable I would just varnish or paint. It will likely last as long if not longer than the boat.  I wouldn't want Fir plywood at all, it checks too easily.  But if it is easily replaceable then not a big deal.  If we can build boats we can surely fix them.


Looking good.

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