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Princess Sharpie 28


PeterP

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Peter:

 

Does this look like a reasonable sketch of the transom half of your gudgeon setup? If so, that would give me an idea of where to pre-drill my transom to mount these later on. I can get the spacing up and down off the mockup I did for the rudder box.

 

This has it 6 inches wide at the base, made from 3" x 1/4" 316 stainless tubing......it would have an inside width of 2.5 inches. For the rudder half,  I found some 18-8 (love it when call it 304 or 316 in one place and 18-8 in another........or stainless screws when they don't tell you what they are at all) stainless bushing material. 1" OD, 1/2" ID, but only to a length of 2 inches. Would use 1/2" stainless bolts for the pins. Bushings would be welded to 2" wide stainless straps. General design for this half will be a scaled up copy of what I have for my existing boat.

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Howard, looks close to what I made. My stainless U box is slightly less across at 5in over all. I think I told you I put a 1x5 vertical batten inside the transom to beef it up for the rudder hardware bolts. So my boltholes are spaced accordingly 2 and 2 vertically 3in apart to land on the batten. My bolts are also smaller - I originally planned to buy 5/16" but I found some 1/4in on the shelf and used those instead. The holding power of 4 x 1/4" bolts is pretty amazing but if 3/8 will make you sleep better so be it. My strap material is 2.5in which I selected because it fits inside the U box and buying one piece that width would cover all the bits I wanted to make. Are you sure you want to pre-drill all your holes at this point? You said something about doing it while the transom is flat - I have a curved transom and my stuff fits on there nice and tight (without rocking). Elsewhere, you asked me why I made my rudder blade out of white oak: I can get it locally for 3 bucks a BDF (8/4 lumber), I never had problems glueing it up and since it is glassed and will be clear coated if anything happens I'll know pretty quick. PeterP

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By doing it when the transom is flat, I meant drilling the location for the mounting holes oversized then backfilling them with epoxy while the transom piece was still flat. That is easier to do than filling a horizontal hole when the piece is vertical. As long as the doubler piece to mount the holes in is not too wide, adding a bit of curvature to the transom might be possible. Probably not more than an inch of curvature at the top and none at the bottom. Any rocker left for the gudgeons could be filled with a thickened epoxy shim.

 

I am certain that 4 - 1/4" bolts on each will be more than enough holding power. Could probably lift the boat from them. Like you, I already have them on hand.

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Howard-makes perfect sense now. All my hardware is 316 SS by the way and if you change your mind about your bushings, Onlinemetals sell SS tube 1/2 in nominal ID that is closer to 5/8- just right for 1/2 pintle bolt. You can order an offcut that's between 9-11in for a better price. I did that and had enough to do all of my goudgeons and the hinge for the flip up tiller. PeterP

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  • 5 weeks later...

In the sixties it would be called a "Houston we have ignition" moment. I got my propane system all set up, tested and fired up - then it was time to have an official First cuppa on board. Tasted good except for the aroma which is a bit heavy on turpentine right now on account of all the varnish being put on. Wonder how Scott is making out. Stay cool PeterP

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Peter, it looks great! I guess I've been on break from teaching for too long and my brain is going to mush... when I first glanced at your stove photo, my first thought was, "That's interesting... I wonder why he installed it vertically."  :)  The little bowl to the right looked (vertically) like a decorative knob on the front of a drawer.

 

Must be exciting to get some of the amenities hooked up and start dreaming of adventures.

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  • 4 months later...

Hello, i am a new forum member from Germany.Some month ago i thought about to  build a NIS26 but hesitate because of the "kit only" option. No plans are sold alone.i want to be more flexible with interieur.

Then i googled and found the B&B Princess 26 and fell in love with her.i am 6´7" (2meters) tall. So i asked Mr. Byrnes via email if the 26 could be enlarged a little bit to achieve 210 cm long berth.But did not get an answer yet.Reading in this forum i found this thread about a princess 28. ​I do not find the plans on the B&B homepage.Can you tell me if this Princess 28 is just an stretched 26?Or is it an own design? Is there a Plywood-hardchine option too?Please excuse my english it is not so good as it should be for a conversation here. So i did not read and understand all posts in this thread.Thank you very much for your advicebest RegardsSönke 

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Sonke,

There are no real plans for Princess 28 R(ound)other than Graham's head and computer. Graham derived the general concept and some of the lines from the 26 but it is a "different boat". He drew the lines as a favor to me -with me working out most of the details as I go along-but I have no exclusive claim on them. I am sure he would sell you a package. Funny you should mention NIS 26 because that is exactly where I started. Thought about B&B P26 for a while but but finally settled on P28R because I do like the smoothly curved boats best of all. The P28 design also has a different centerboard than P26 and the cabin is a bit higher to allow "more" headroom. ( I am 6'2"/ 188cm). You will be hard pressed to find something with headroom to fit your height. As for the bunks - that is relatively easy - you can "cheat"(move) the bulkheads to get the extra length. My boat is strip planked all the way but considerable time could be saved by doing plywood topsides instead of strips. Lastly, there is no need to worry about your English on this forum - certainly not with me - it's all about boats. You ask and hopefully someone has an answer - may not be in Queen's English but so be it. PeterP

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Hello Peter,thank you for answering.I do not dream of 200cm standing headroom  in a 28`boat ;-)Sitting headroom will be enough for me. Only a long bunk of 210-220 cm is very important.I am located in northern Germany at the estuary of the river Elbe. This part of the North Sea can be quite rough sometimes. Especially when the Northwester blows again the 4-5knots ebb current.So a boat being a little bit bigger as  26´ will be nice for safety reasons. And in the waddensea shoal draft is needed.I think i wait for Grahams answer about a stretched PS 26 or i will ask him about the Plans for the PS 28.Two further questions:Do you know if an hardchine Plywood Version of the 28er is on his drawing table?Do you have wooden or  aluminium masts for your boat? all the bestSönke 

P.S. i forgot to say:You are building a beautiful boat!!!

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I don't think there is hard chine version of my 28 but I strongly suspect that stretched version of P26 is doable. Be patient with Graham he is slowing down some and between the huge catamaran and his other business it can be a pain to get an answer out of him sometime. He is a lot better once you get serious and start building. Building a (stretched) 26 should be relatively easy as there are 2 or 3 good threads already out there. And Howard is just getting fired up on his 26. His will be well documented I feel. My mast are aluminium -absolutely the best cost/weight/strength/speed of manufacture ratio available. Not as nice as wood but a good paint job should help a lot. Thank you for the compliment and best of luck PeterP

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  • 3 months later...

Not enjoying this weather at all. Started on the masts and did not take me long to mess up. While measuring for the top(3in) section cut on the mizzen I somehow did not get it right. Not quite. Ended up a bit over foot short on the mast. The best theory I have right now is that I used the mizzen luff measurement and forgot to add 6" for the halyard block and another 6" at the foot of the sail. Luckily I had some extra 3" pipe so I will be able to patch it up. Since it is the very top of the mast there should be relatively little stress on it so welding it will be OK. To help line things up and to make doubly sure stuff does not come apart I put in an inner sleeve. Some of those marine prices sure can take your breath away: copper bus bar with 4 x 3/8" studs for $60? I made my own with 6 studs - TWO of them for less than $30. Sometimes you win sometimes you mismeasure. What can you do. Cheers

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Where did you get your mast stock? The usual sources like Online Metals don't seem to offer anything that long.

 

On the electrical system, I found a schematic diagram for a basic electrical system from Blue Sea. Seems simple enough (but not inexpensive).

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  • 2 months later...

I am getting into a real tizzy with this boat. Been at it too long. Reached a point where I see a job and I go -Do I absolutely need this done to get afloat?. If the answer is no I just put it on the mile long list and move on. EVERY job takes forever to do and that's AFTER you've spent hours on line sourcing stuff. Small consolation - with this economy - there are some good buys out there. The wiring is a case in point. Huge amount of laying out, sourcing, then building. The system is not that complicated but it needs to be done right. So every connection is crimped then covered with heat shrink tubing. Then we have the never ending screw ups and change of plan (Upgrades). I did the basic works on the wiring then decided to go in with Magnum charger/inverter which complicated things with heavier wires, fuses etc. But nuff said - it's all in there now, it works and looks good. Solar panel/charger as well as another Lifeline battery got put on the mile long list. Fancy cabin flooring ditto. Various bits and pieces of wood trim inside the cabin- you guessed it. Got the galley table put in, my masts are painted and ready for the track and hardware. I absolutely need to finish the masts, build the wishbones, get the sails, run the lines, pour and install the lead shoe, install the C/B, fine tune the diesel system and put her on a trailer (yet to be sourced and purchased). There is a huge amount work in that deceptively short list but it's DOABLE. I feel like I'm getting close. Peter P

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Nice Peter. Now all she lacks is finishing up....

That is almost as ominous as:  All you gotta do is...............  I find that thinking you are almost done too often leads to disappointment, especially when you discover the things you didn't think of yet that still need to be done, or things you knew you had to do just take longer than you thought.  When I just keep plugging at it I seem to get to the end faster.  Keep at it Peter, it will come to an end when you are done.

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I think Peter's idea of the "punch list" is the way to go. See something, put it on the list and knock it out when you can. That way, it eventually gets done.

 

I thought Peter had already poured the keel, so went back and found where you built the plug for it, but not the keel?

 

What are your plans for the crucible and heat source?

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Thanks for all the encouragement from David and Brent. Howard- you're right -the keel is not poured yet. Gearing up for it presently and with a quite good bit of trepidation. 1100 pounds of hot lead is not to be trifled with. I replaced the house furnace last year and kept the 120000 BTU burner/blower. Runs on city gas, sounds like a F-18 afterburner and should melt the lead easily. The crucible is not finalized yet. I have two candidates but nothing definite. As for the mold - I am going with Hardiplank for the contact areas backed by Drywall mud mixed with sand. Sounds a bit crazy but I've put a blow torch on the siding and got it to glow cherry red and it stayed together. The Mud has 2 hr fire rating by itself - I will mix it with sand (3 parts of sand to 1 part mud). The whole thing will be contained in a solid wooden box. We'll see. Meanwhile-you may enjoy a picture of my Dorade box. Not my design. Just my version of a plastic Plastimo box I remember seeing eons ago. Looks a whole lot better in wood like most things. Cheers PeterP

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