CS-20 MK1 # 36: "Gavia" Restoration

[Don Silsbe]

I thought it came out pretty nice.  

[Andy B]

I bit the bullet and bought some hardware and supplies to get started on my next projects.

First, deck paint.  I went with Kirby's Marine Deck & Topsides.  I chose the "putty" color, low lustre, because I don't like glare on the deck.  I also bought primer from the same.

Thanks to all the discussion on paint on this forum.  I know I could have gone cheaper elsewhere.  But Kirby was really helpful for some questions and, well, I like living in a world where a shop like Kirby's exists.  If that costs me $50 or $100, I'm glad to contribute.  I'll report on how it coats over the existing varnish that I will sand up.

 

Next is deck hardware.  I really wanted to go all bronze, but it was getting too expensive.  So I went cheap(er) for the stuff I need to purchase right now.  First was a triple bullseye fairlead (link below).  It's simple.  I don't like the home-made version I have right now, it looks too cluttered.

 

Second is a folding cleat for the aft.  I found these for cheap (link below).  There were some folding cleats linked on the B&B page, but the amazon link was broken.  So I went with these, which are discounted, even though they are 4.5 inches, not 6.  I don't think I have heavy loads on the stern cleats, so I can get some thinner line if needed.  For $10 a piece it's worth a shot.  I like the idea of folding cleats there since I won't use them often and it will be nice to not worry about butts or ropes getting fouled up by a standing cleat.

 

I'm still holding out for bronze bow chocks and fore cleats.  We'll see.

 

 

https://www.shopsoundboatworks.com/search?type=product&q=triple bullseye fairlead*

 

https://www.acconmarine.com/collections/closeout-products-1/products/300-style-folding-cleat

 

 

[Don Silsbe]

I have these fairleads, and like them.

 

For the cleats, I went retractible.  But yours are fine.  Being flush back there is important to keep from fouling the mizzen sheet.  There’s enough stuff for it to hang up on.  Don’t need to add to the confusion.

[Andy Woerner]

We’re just getting started on a CS17 and relatively new to woodworking.  What’s the best method for getting those nice rounded edges on the tiller?  Table router, router, hand sanding?

 

Thanks,

Andy and Grayer

[Andy B]

I got some good work done today!  got all the hardware off the deck--that was harder than I thought it would be.  Different screws and bolts, and applied differently.  Some just right through the deck, some with bolts in various stages of rusting, and two pernicious ones with small bolts recessed up in holes.  A big thanks to child number 3 for his help!  He even wedged down into the forward compartment to get at one bolt!

 

We are starting with the deck because it has many areas where the varnish is blistering or peeling off.  I scraped those and then we got to work with the orbital sander.  First 80 grit, which was very useful for digging into the very rough areas.  Then 150 and 220.

 

Next up is wiping off all this dust and filling lots of holes with expoxy.

[Andy B]

Ok, one question for the next step.  Because the prior owner used a lug rig, there's a lot of hardware taken off that won't go back on.  Most of it was small, and so the screw or bolt holes are small, narrow enough that getting epoxy down will be a bit difficult.

 

Is it okay to use a filler product to fill in these holes?  Marine surfacing putty, or even bondo?

[Steve W]

I'd thicken some epoxy and use a room key card to push into the holes. Finish as desired.

[Don Silsbe]

@Andy B— I agree with Steve.  If you need some epoxy thickening powder, let me know.  I have gallons!

[Andy B]

Thanks, guys, for the input!

 

I intend to use the West System Six10 kit.  It comes out thick enough to fill these holes already, and the tip for the caulk gun should make it easy to fill these holes.

[Andy B]

Today we got off that pesky bolt for the cleat (had to use bolt cutters!), wiped everything off with acetone, filled deck holes with west six10 epoxy, and got a first coat of Sikkens Cetol on the rub rail. 

[Captain Tim]

If you are prepping epoxy coated surfaces for more epoxy you should wash it good with fresh water.  Acetone will just move the blush around and not really clean the surface as well as water will. If it is a polyester surface acetone will work best.

[Andy B]

Thanks, Tim. I’ll keep that in mind for the future. The next step is paint, not epoxy, but that’s good for me to know. 

[Steve W]

Always wash with water ( i add one drop of dish detergent) before final sand and paint. I left some blush in the anchor locker and what a  mess it was to fix.....

 

 

[Andy B]

Two jobs today. First was filling a home on each side deck. It’s about an inch diameter and deep; I suspect it was the original oar lock placement with reinforcement lumber under the plywood. It had been just covered up with a small piece of plywood screwed over it. 
I whittled a dowel rod to appropriate size and shoved that in there with plenty of epoxy schmeared on, then covered the top of that with epoxy. 
 

second job was a final clean up, taping, and first coat of paint. It’s Kirby’s Marine primer with conditioner added. 
 

I am super thankful to have this hangar to work in. It’s been so hazy with pollen and Canadian wildfire smoke that it’s good to paint in a place that’s rarely open to the elements. 

[Andy B]

First coat of the paint tonight!  Kirby topsides, color is putty, low lustre. 
 

[Don Silsbe]

Love the color!

[Captain Tim]

Don Silsbe says, "Love the color!"  I say, love the space you are building in

[Andy B]

13 minutes ago, Captain Tim said:

Don Silsbe says, "Love the color!"  I say, love the space you are building in

Tim, the space I'm working in has been wonderful.  It's a client's who has let me use it while we liquidate an estate.  I'll miss it when it's gone!

[Andy B]

Here are some updated photos showing the paint job with the tape off. I love the color, especially against the wood.  Our painting is workmanlike—a few brush marks seen and we can do some touch ups where we didn’t mark well with the tape. But also, my 11 year old can claim she helped paint a boat!

 

Edit to add:  last night was the tedious work of installing the hardware back on.  For some pieces we needed to epoxy on a block below the plywood.

 

Hardware: 

Bronze herreshoff cleats by Buck Algonquin (we also have bow chocks, not installed yet), purchased from Duckworks.  $150 total, way less than the ones from Spartan Marine that I was looking at.  I also bought the bronze fasteners from them, with a Frearson bit, which I've never used before.  It was great at driving those cleats in firmly.

 

Aft cleats, pop up stainless, from Accon Marine.

 

Spinlock Triple Bulls Eye from Sound Boatworks (I like the product so far, but I had to email the seller a few weeks after paying to get them to put it in the mail)

 

 

[Hirilonde]

Buff is a classic deck color, light enough to not get hot, color enough to avoid glare, looks great against varnished wood and doesn't look busy, even as a 3rd color.