Docpal

Yes it is, thanks!

Graham, Nope,see attached. Maybe it's just some setting on my computer. Can someone post the direct link to YouTube please?

Graham, I can't open your video,I get the message that it's "private"...

In my experience heat will usually help promote them. One old technique people have used is to wait until after the hottest time of the day, and then apply the epoxy. The reasoning being that as things cool down there will be less opportunity for buildup of heat beneath the coating. Peter types faster than I do...

How warm was it when you applied the epoxy? Sometimes you get bubbles from the substrate off gassing or reacting to the "pores" being covered. When time allows I like to apply the epoxy to the substrate, let that dry, and then do the followup sheathing/coating. A squeegee will also help get those bubbles out better than a roller,or brush will. Everyone has their own techniques but I like to coat everything I can with epoxy, and then do my top coats over that. I'm leery of having ANY bare wood on a small boat as moisture can "travel" via capillary action,etc.

Chick, Here's a link to the Water Tribe "results" page- http://www.watertribe.com/Events/ChallengeResults.aspx

Great looking boat,with a sweet towing setup !

Congratulations to Mister Moon and ZerotheHero for banging their way through last night's winds to finish up in Key Largo in the wee hours...!

Graham is now only about 8 miles off of MisterMoon's stern as they both are trying to get into Flamingo...

Mistermoon is already at CP #1 as well...

Alex, My mistake. I have 6 pages open here and it was really on the Water tribe Facebook page- https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10209045437241092&set=pcb.887162308068885&type=3&theater Map has been available again for the last hour-http://www.watertribe.com/Events/ChallengeGMapper.aspx

Their server seems to be over loaded at the moment,I haven't been able to get to the map in awhile.... Here's a shot of Graham/Carlita posted over on the Duckworks EC page...

I got Boat US to insure my Core Sound 17"Petunia" for an "agreed value" of $8K last year. The total premium for the year was $176. I was also told by many that my homeowners insurance "should" cover it, but the Boat US policy was specific in that it also covers fuel spill liability, uninsured boaters,boat trailer, etc. The deductible is reasonable ($200 for the boat,$50 for trailer/ personal effects etc.) so I decided to go with their "yacht policy". Where manufacturer is listed she is classified as a "custom" built hull. Initially they were only going to value the boat for about $5K but I called their underwriters and pointed out that I had previously built boats for a living, had held a Coast Guard captain's license, NO prior losses,etc. and they raised her value to $8K (which as we all know is no where near the amount spent on building...). So if they suggest a lower figure than you'd like, call and see what you can work out. The policy is good for all US/Canadian coastal and inland waters. And it would probably be a great idea to have ALL of your registration papers in order before you attempt this as most companies will be more likely to cover a vessel that has already gone through some sort of bureaucratic screening by someone else.....

Jay, SAME exact thing happened to me last Winter as I was sitting on the launch ramp at Flamingo, Everglades park.( Due to time constraints I hadn't had a chance to run the engine before heading South so it was actually my first time firing it up). Couldn't figure it out until someone came by and suggested that maybe there was too much oil in the engine. SO we pulled the motor,drained the oil,dried the plug, and started over again, with a little less oil in her this time. Haven't had a problem since that day. I think part of the problem is that even tilting the motor for a few minutes changes the apparent level of oil in their little 'view window', and once she sits upright for a bit you get a true picture of how much is in there. GREAT engine,plenty of power at partial throttle, and easy to co exist with when you have to run it for extended periods of time,as Lenny G. and I did while fighting the incoming tide at Boca Grande pass a few weeks later. Glad i went with this model....

Dave, I agree with Scott,Online metals were VERY reasonable in pricing for the mast sections AND shipping. I also ordered a shorter (3') section of the same .125" tubing so I could use it for establishing mast step locations,etc. while the boat was still inside the garage. They have now added a bunch of new warehouses so shipping should be even more reasonable than when I had mine shipped from Seattle to NJ 7 years ago...

Mine is on the starboard side so I would have easier access to the controls, particularly the "kill switch". I'm not sure there would be any more/less issue with the mizzen either way since the sheets usually foul on the motor's cowling rather than the handle.

Take a wonderful design, maintain it properly , and sail it well. Seems like a great recipe to me.... http://www.sailingscuttlebutt.com/2015/09/09/dorade-completes-historic-campaign/

Congratulations on the launch !!!

Isn't the cockpit on a Mark 3 self bailing/draining? If so it will serve the same purpose as another hole in the hull.....

MM, Here's a few shots of the bridge deck/battery compartment. I'll also attach a shot of the aft end of the new berth. It measured at 3 inches above the original bottom of the face,of the original seat tank. With any kind of side deck I think you'll HAVE to go that low. That's a BIG advantage of the MK III's Here are pix of the bridge deck, battery compartment,charge controller,solar panel,and the aft end of the new,lower berth to show the 3"remaining side wall. I power the gel cells with a 20 watt solar panel that runs pump,running lights,GPS,etc. Oar storage-I can fit 8'oars inside the cabin, but I would prefer to run 9 footers. Might have to sacrifice some rowing ability for the convenience of having them available,and in one piece. I also want to play with a sculling oar to see how she'll respond. Have you tried that yet on Bandaloop?

McD, I totally made things up on the fly. I knew the shape I wanted, and built a few mock ups out of furring strips,card board, etc. to see if my idea(s) were feasible. Funny thing how sometimes rulers and reality don't synch..... Since this is your first boat it probably makes much more sense for you to build the boat you bought, use it, and THEN make changes as they may be needed. I'm already learning that with Petunia as I've had to re-engineer a few things I didn't understand until I had her on the water, (outboard well, berth height,hinging curved hatch, etc.). And she's not my first build.....ALL of us will always be fiddling,upgrading,improvising,etc. as long as we own our boats, but for your intended use, a good fabric/tarp "cabin" and/or a tent for when you beach her, would sure get you on the water, a LOT sooner....

MM, I will have to measure the height of the seat when i get over to the boat a little later, but there wasn't very much of it left on the forward end. I'm going to guess that it's about 5 inches at the aft end, but I'll give you exact numbers later.

Mister Moon, As you probably know I did something along the same lines, and I'm glad I did. But I did run into a couple of things. When I added the cabin I didn't realize how much of an issue there would be regarding the original seat height. As it turned out I had to saw off most of the original seat to get enough room to sleep on my side. I had previously cut through the forward bulkhead, (filled the lower portion with pour in place flotation),and that gave me the extra room to extend to a full length berth. I just did the starboard side as a test, and then I need to decide if I really have to do the same to the port side. I like the idea of an enclosed seat/locker inside the cabin and the port side gap is wide enough to let that side serve as a full length quarter berth. I am using sockets and cross braces to suspend the berth decks on. They are both short enough to fit along the hull,adjacent to the mast, when I am not using them. And the cross braces fit in the seat easily. At the aft end of the berths I have shorter deck panels.Those floors are cut at about 24" so I can stand on the shorter version in the companionway, and not be standing directly on the hull. I'm building the bracing now for the aft ends of the deck panels, and forward lip of the shorter panels . That extends both berths to over 6'. in the last picture the head would go where the anchor is now sitting. These pix show the existing port berth, the now shorter starboard berth when cut to size, the new starboard berth, and the two berths, with shorter sections. I've also got a bridge deck aft of the cabin. I have two 32 AH gel cell batteries in the port side with the charge controller, and I haven't really designated the starboard side compartment for anything specific yet. Might be the galley. I built the compartments with the same style of hatch top as the cockpit hatches so things are nice and dry. I'll get some pix of the bridge deck tomorrow.

Congratulations ! The tracker shows that you finished the race a few minutes ago ! Please write up something to let us know how it went !

Pete, Thanks for the info. I was able to get Boat US to up my "agreed value" from $3K to $8K by speaking with an underwriter and explaining my personal experience, and the process I used in building Petunia. I also followed the previous suggestions and had my home insurance agent confirm that I DO have limited liability coverage under said policy. Of course most of us have more in just the plywood,and epoxy than these policies will cover. Current thinking is to get the Boat US deal as well to establish a value, and get coverage while she IS still new, and being trailered about so much. Thanks for all the input gentlemen....