zumwaltd

I need to put the Salish 100 on my bucket list. Your pics were helpful during my build and are always appreciated. Thanks, Dave

Graham, I had been tying the halyard to the headboard with a bowline. I will learn the buntline. Thanks for your ideas and thanks PadrePoint for the link. Dave

Graham, Thanks for the response. My hull # is 55. In crossing windy San Antonio bay in a beam reach my boat was rocking back and forth and I was pleased with how the mast stayed solid with the tabernacle and boat. Also, in a dumb move on my part, I failed to lower my keel onto its support base on my trailer and after 750 miles of travel, I found the keel attachment point had sheared off. I screwed in another eyestrap and re-attached to the block. This held for one day before the screws pulled out of the wood. I next drilled a 1" hull through the keel trunk in order to access the keel where I drilled a 3/8" hole through the top of the keel, attached a loop of rope and epoxied the trunk back closed. I was able to lift the keel for the remainder of the trip. My question is, now that I am home, do I re-do the eyestrap attachment as in the original plans or have they been upgraded? I promise to lower the keel onto its support blocks from now on when trailering. Thanks, Dave

I just completed the Texas 200 and now want to add a bimini to Redwing, my B19. I am not sure if I need to shorten the mizzen to make this happen. And from the pictures I see of Randy's Belhaven and Bob Carson's Penny Mae, which also completed the TX 200, I think I need to add a topping lift. Any advice and/or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks, Dave

Thanks, I will head to Menards tomorrow. Dave

I am in the process of riveting on the sail track and have broken two hand riveting tools. The jaws break inside the tool head. Can anyone recommend an inexpensive riveting tool that worked for them? The stainless steel rivets seem to push the design specs of the tools I have purchased. Thanks, Dave

Alan, Thank you for your great response to my request and the attached videos. They are well done and very helpful. Best regards, Dave

Does anyone have a picture or two of these tapered ramps? Or maybe a close up of a mast joint that supports the track well. Thanks.

Randy, Here are a few pics. I am really slow, and semi steady with my building. Thanks for your replies. Dave

Has anyone experience with this cheaper portlight found on Ebay? (link below) I want 4 round and one rectangular portlight for my Belhaven. I am aware these don't have screens. I suspect for the rectangular portlight in the front of the cabin I will want a screen to keep the bugs out. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Boat-Round-Opening-Portlight-Porthole-8-Replacement-Window-Port-Hole-ABS-/181638144245?hash=item2a4a7a20f5:g:csYAAOSwa39UsJqq&vxp=mtr Thanks, Dave

Thanks everyone for this information. Dave Z

Locally I can only get aluminum poles with a thicker wall than speced in my Belhaven plans: ( .125 vs. .65) through my metals dealer. See quote below. My question is: will the additional wall thickness of the bottom two mast pieces be detrimental to the overall mast bending as designed, considering the final 2" top section wall thickness will be as speced .65? Thanks for your help with this. Dave Z # Product Description Price Amount Total 1 MISC ALUMINUM 3"OD X .125 WALL X 20' 6061-T6511 $150.64 1 ea $150.64 2 MISC ALUMINUM 2.5"OD X .125 WALL X 24' 6061-T6511 $197.85 1 ea $197.85 3 MISC ALUMINUM 2"OD X .065 WALL X 24' 6061-T6511 $117.92 1 ea $117.92

Graham, Thank you for the explanation and picture. In my mind I thought the carlin needed to be raised to better support the coaming. Best regards, Dave Z

I am trying to determine the height of the carlin where it attaches to the transom on my Belhaven 19. Any pics of that spot from a previous builder or suggestions would be helpful to me. Thanks, Dave Z

Randy, I have no beaching experience with my boat as I am still building it. Working on the cabin now. Best regards Dave Z