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Tgabe

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Tgabe last won the day on November 18 2013

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About Tgabe

  • Birthday 05/05/1964

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    Texas
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    music, woodwork, travel, baseball

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  1. Thanks everyone for your responses and photos. Very helpful.
  2. Hey Builders of Fine Watercraft; I need to make some decisions about the tiller. Straight tiller or curved? The pictures of the curved tillers look really nice, but is it less practical. Tiller length? My CS17 has the open cockpit, not the back deck, so I feel like I don't need 48" tiller as shown in the plans. Any thoughts? Pivot or not? If I am reading it correctly, the tiller is glued to the top of the rudder case and does not pivot up and down, nor is it removable. This seems like it would be less than ideal. I looked up tiller hardware and the tilting bracket can be as much as $300. What have others done? Show me your tiller! Thanks. -Tom
  3. I got the keel installed and the hull primed. What type of metal strip are people using on the keel? brass or stainless? and should it run the entire length of the keel? or would 12 ft. work?
  4. What type of would is recommended for the keel on a Core Sound 17? I have access to just about type but need suggestions. Also, should the keel be glassed, epoxied or varnished? Thanks.
  5. Tgabe

    CS 17

    Paul, I am inspired by your pictures. I am getting ready to order paint. Can you tell me more specifics about the type you used for the interior and bottom? Did you use Total Boat 2part epoxy primer or the TotalBoat topside primer (one part)..... Another question if you don't mind... I read somewhere that solid stock parts such as the tiller don't should not be epoxy coated, but just varnished with several coats. What about rub rails, center thwart, and other pieces that are not plywood? Epoxy or not? I can't remember where I read about that.
  6. Ken is correct. I am talking about the parallel bottom stringers. So my options are: Set them in at an angle - they seem to lay flatter that way. Scribe them to the shape of the hull. Or, order some 12 oz. biax. The stringers forward of the bulkhead are already glued in. I would include pictures but I keep getting an error message when trying to attach. I think I will order the biax cloth. Thanks for everyones help. Looking at everyone else's pictures keeps me motivated.
  7. I am having a tough time with the bottom stringers just aft of the forward bulkhead. With the curve of the hull, the taped seam where the two thicknesses of plywood meet and the curve of the filet on the bulkhead, I can't seem to get the stringers to lie flat. Even after an hour of sanding, planing, and filing to try to get it shaped correctly. Wondering what others have done. Are there other options? Thanks for any input.
  8. Should I paint (and primer) the inside of the centerboard trunk before I assemble and install it, or is it sufficient to have three coats of epoxy and fg cloth without the paint? What have others done? CS17 #375
  9. We have had cool mornings (50s) and warm afternoons (80+). Will warmer weather reduce the formation of bubbles or is it better to apply epoxy in the cool morning?
  10. I need some help here. I glassed the two inside faces of the centerboard case and one side (so far) of the centerboard. Here were my steps: 1. thin coat of epoxy on directly on the wood 2. lay the fiberglass cloth over the wet epoxy 3. apply more epoxy with roller on top of the cloth, smooth with brush 4. about 6 hours later, I put on another coat of epoxy to fill the weave. I used a roller and brush and tried to brush out the bubbles. The next morning it was covered with little pimples, like a bad case of acne. So I have sanded them all out and now want advice before I put on another coat. How do I get a smooth finish without the bubbles. Other questions: Should the solid wood pieces also be epoxy coated, or just varnished/painted? Things like the centerboard handle and the centerboard case supports, the center thwart, transom reinforcement, etc. How about all the decking supports - coat in epoxy? CS17 #375 slow going
  11. What weight of cloth is recommended for glassing the centerboard and centerboard case? (Core Sound 17)
  12. i had the same question about tape or no tape under the keel batten. Graham said tape is not necessary there so I just I did not tape.
  13. We are making some progress on #375. Installed cockpit sides. Ready to fillet and tape.
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