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Aphers last won the day on October 18

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  1. When I was building my 11N, I was worried that the aft seats would stop the bow from nesting correctly. So I decided to install them after sawing the boat in half. Sure enough they needed trimming down. I don't know if that means my hull shape is slightly off, or is it quite a common occurrence?
  2. I've got a small (7lb, I think) Manson Supreme as my dinghy anchor. It's a brilliant little thing. Use it all the time as a stern anchor at dinghy docks. It's broadly similar to the Mantus and Rocna, i.e. concave fluke with a roll bar. Fun story: a few years ago I was anchoring my 33ft yacht and she started dragging her 16kg anchor. With not much room left, I threw down the little Manson and it bit and held instantly. A 7lb anchor holding a 6t 33ft yacht! The reason it worked was because it bites so quickly. The bigger anchor (which was a very badly made copy of a delta) had just dragged along the bottom picking up weed until it had no chance of ever setting properly. I've also tried using a folding grapnel anchor on the dinghy, but with very poor results, even when it was plenty heavy enough. Design matters!
  3. If it's good holding and a decent anchor it should reset without any drama. I've heard that Danforth or Fortress types are less good for this, as the chain can foul the anchor when it is resetting. However a Bahamian moor is the way to go if you're in any doubt.
  4. Whilst I was repairing my Spindrift, I had the loan of a little grp tender. It was terrible! Cramped, slow, wet, exceptionally heavy. My wife and I could only just drag it up a slipway, even though it was less than 9ft long. It was also impossible to row, because the flimsy rowlocks would just bend and allow the oars to pop out. We've used as much petrol in the last two weeks as we have in the preceding twelve months, simply because the outboard was the only option, even on flat calm days. But the loaned dinghy had one redeeming feature: under motor it was lovely and quiet. In contrast, the Spindrift reverberates like the soundbox of a guitar. Not really surprising given the construction. My motor is a little single cylinder 2 stroke, not known for smooth or quiet running. Has anybody used a different type of motor and found the noise to be reduced? I'm wondering if a twin cylinder or a 4 stroke would be an improvement?
  5. Obviously we had to go for a quick sail at the first opportunity. 6yr old on the tiller. Start them young! And sorry for topless look but it's 32C/90F and pretty humid here
  6. There's around 40 litres of buoyancy in the noodles (they're extra wide ones, 4"), so about enough to float the dinghy even with the three buoyancy chambers flooded. Which is very comforting! I haven't actually capsized the boat yet, but I can stand on the gunwale with my full weight and the noodle starts to dip in to the water. I'm sure it's adding a useful amount of extra stability. The other benefit is as a spray deflector, and if course it has saved the paintwork countless times. If only it was a bit less cheap looking!
  7. Launch day! The boat is looking better than she did before the accident. I gave her an all over re-paint and came up with a better way of attaching the pool noodle fendering, so that they no longer sag. One of the rowlocks had a lot of play so that got a few blows from a hammer whilst it was off, much better now. Thanks to everybody for the encouragement and advice- especially Alan and Graham. You really cannot see the repair unless you know exactly where to look, and it pretty much blends in with the general level of finish that I aimed for originally. Great to have the boat back. I was loaned another dinghy for the duration of the repair, and it really made me appreciate how good the Spindrift is!
  8. I used plastic for my keel strip. Cheap, light, doesn't do any damage to anything. I don't expect it to last forever but then again I don't drag the boat around on its keel. I just fixed it with sealant so it'll be easy enough to replace when the time comes. We're one year in, full time use as a tender to a liveaboard yacht, and only showing light wear.
  9. First full coat of paint on today. It's not perfect but you'd be hard pressed to spot the repair, I think.
  10. I was using an old tub of West 407 for fairing, and found it very lumpy and gritty. Ok to just build up a big volume and sand back, but very frustrating if you tried to smooth down taped edges etc. Anyway the guy who is paying for the repair got me a new tub, because he couldn't get the microballoons I wanted, and wow what a difference. Clearly my old tub has got damp, or contaminated with dirt, or something. So I think the lesson is to keep your powder dry! Anyway, today I made the decision that fairing and sanding had to stop, and I moved on to the painting. There are still some low spots and slightly rough patches here and there but I can't keep throwing ever more time at this. The standard I had originally aimed for wasn't exactly perfection. Got the bare areas painted today, tomorrow I'll aim for a full coat, and probably do a second one, then it's just a case of re-fitting the fendering, rowlocks, etc, and we go back in to the water
  11. Got a couple of days of unsettled weather coming up, which will delay things. But I got the gunwale reattached today, which is the last structural repair. Next up I need to tidy up around some of the glass work- probably shave down any rough edges and runs with a sharp chisel, before fairing. Wish I could get proper microballoons! I've been touching up minor scrapes pretty much since launching the boat, and have had to use a standard shade of International Perfection, which doesn't exactly match the boat's original colour. So I'm going to take this opportunity to do an all over coat and she should look brand new again.
  12. Removed the temporary ply shutter from the outside today, and filled the gaps that were left. Let it harden up a bit and then glassed over it. Just the gunwale to do now.
  13. Oh yes I know all about 'boat time'! It's been a week since I put the boat in the yard. Total number of hours work so far is not actually that much- but there's always a lot of thinking time involved. I'm really pleased that I've been able to get everything back in line, and won't have any ugly steps to try to hide. Hardest thing from here with be down to my working conditions and materials. I wasn't able to source microballoons, which I find the best for fairing the edges of the glass, so I'm using West 407 low density filler which has silica mixed in. It will do but I seem to spend ages getting it to a smooth enough consistency. Also, working outside in a windy and dusty boatyard will certainly make painting interesting...
  14. Started on the stern repair. There was quite a big gap here, where I'd had to remove loose and damaged splinters of ply. Because of the amount of filling required I didn't want to attempt doing both sides at the same time and risk leaving voids. I wedged a stick in place to do the bulk of the work, getting the panel to push out to where it needs to go. Then on the outside I screwed on a temporary ply shutter, covering the crack and pulling both sides in to line. I've now glassed up the inside, with another piece of ply to help get the shape right. Tomorrow I'll remove the ply and glass the outside. And after that it's just reattaching the gunwale and the structural repairs will be finished!
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