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Aphers

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Aphers last won the day on October 7

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  1. I studied forestry in a limited way at uni, and we used the terms conifer and broadleaf. So there are three different ways of splitting trees in to two groups! Poplar is a deciduous broadleaf, but not exactly a hardwood. Yew is a coniferous evergreen, but can be treated as a hardwood. And holly is a broadleafed evergreen, and again a hardwood. It's all pretty fascinating. Would make a good Venn diagram. Getting back on topic...I'll swing by my local builders' merchant and see if I can find any decent clear timber. I don't think I'll need to be too fussy about species from the sound
  2. OK shoot this idea down but it occurs to me that I have a readily available source of long thin treated softwood- the fillet strips used in decking projects to fill in the channel in the handrail. Typically sold at a finished size of about 12x45mm and lengths up to 3.6m. e.g. https://www.fourseasonsfencing.co.uk/shop/product/premier-handrail-fillet/ It is NOT a high grade of timber by any means, but it is treated for outdoor use and tends to be pretty clear. Crucially, I can walk in to my local merchant and pick some up tomorrow. My concerns would be th
  3. OK thanks, I think that makes sense. So essentially I'm looking for a length of 2x4 as clear as I can find?
  4. The BoM calls for two 12ft lengths of 2x1 for the gunwales- does this not mean that they are solid timber? EDIT: just re-reading the assembly guide, I think the solid stock has to be ripped into smaller sections and then laminated together?
  5. Thanks for that Graham- I can obtain pressure treated Douglas Fir (I've specified this in the past for a structural job on a house). Would you say that treated DF would be better than pine? I think the DF is stronger but the pine may take up the treatment better. I do indeed plan to have permanently attached fendering so protection from rot is essential.
  6. About to buy the materials for my 11N project, but I'm finding ash quite tricky to source locally. Douglas Fir and Larch are both more readily available. I've worked with both these timbers before on house builds, and have sailed vessels which incorporated them. I know that they will be durable and strong, but I wonder if they are a bit coarser grained and perhaps more liable to split? Ironically most of the country where I live (Scotland) is covered in Sitka Spruce plantation, but you never see the wood for sale anywhere!
  7. Getting pretty close to decision time on this project. I've having some doubts about whether the 11N will fit on my foredeck (athwartships between mast and babystay, so nice and out of the way of everything). The 10N definitely will The new website drawings showing nested dimensions are really helpful. If I had a cross section of the boat half way along the stern section, i.e. the middle of the nested package, I would know for sure whether it will fit the space. I don't suppose such a drawing exists, because it isn't at a bulkhead, but perhaps a kind soul could measure their 1
  8. On balance it certainly sounds like the more expensive ply is the best option. I was quietly hoping to hear from people who had thrown together a boat from any old ply and found it was still holding up ten years later. But that seems like wishful thinking, because so far the only reports I've had is from people who found the cheap ply to be very poor indeed. Ah well, it's only money...
  9. From what I've read, BS1088 means no voids and waterproof glue. But nothing about the actual species of timber used. Often it will be three ply, not five. The BS1088 sheets cost less than a third of the cost of the recommended Okume/Gaboon plywood, which are also not available locally, adding further cost and hassle. I was recently reading a magazine article about a clinker ply dinghy, where the builder had used cheaper 3-ply as he did not know any better at the time. The only apparent issue was that the scarf joints failed and had to be butt-strapped. That's something I could
  10. I probably know the answer to this already. The boat I want to build (S11N) needs four sheets of 5mm okume ply. I have found a source for this but it is at the other end of the UK and the price is of course rather eyewatering, no surprise there. I can pick up 'marine' plywood, BS1088, for a fraction of the price and much more easily at any local supplier. I am in absolutely no doubt that it would be poorer quality, more liable to check, with voids, and most likely just 3 ply rather than 5. But is there a chance that it would be good enough to last a few years? The boat will be
  11. Thanks again, the rasp especially looks like it could save hours. I suppose it's a little like a surform rasp, but probably much better.
  12. Thanks both, I did figure that a plane would be necessary, will start looking around for a good one. Just yesterday I did buy a wet and dry vac, but it's fairly small at 1000w. It will be used for the car and also I can use it on my yacht from either my small genny or from an inverter, when I upgrade my electrics. I'll see how powerful it is when it arrives, but maybe a bigger one would be better for workshop use. I have two spaces available for the build. Firstly my shed which is totally unheated and drafty, not ideal for epoxy or painting, but good for setting up the
  13. In the new year I will start work on a Spindrift 11N. I'm wondering about adding to my tool collection, maybe via a wee request to Santa Claus when the time comes. Presently I have the following: - table saw (315mm, for rough ripping work only) - pillar drill - router (confession: I've never actually used it, and don't know where to start!) Then my cordless stuff (all Makita 18v) - drill - impact driver - 4" grinder - oscillating multi-tool - circular saw - random orbital sander For hand tools, I have an assortmen
  14. Tie them to the back of your car and go for a drive, much less tedious than standing there with a sander
  15. You can use brass in saltwater but it won't last forever, and it may discolour and de-zincify, rendering it soft and crumbly. For occasional use it will be fine. Brass through-hulls were approved under the EU's RCD regulations, meaning that they can be expected to last five years. Bronze or stainless would be better choices but I wouldn't lose any sleep over it.
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