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  1. I'm a big fan of 'Sailwiththeflo'- that's where I first came across the Spindrift design. As there will be three of us we will go for a slightly bigger version.
  2. Sounds like a plan! I think you said you're likely to use your Laser sail, I might end up using a Radial sail myself so I'm going to get in my excuses ahead of time in case you beat me
  3. Thanks for the updates. I'm so tempted by composite but I think I will probably stick with a ply, and minimal sheathing. I figure that since I've never built a boat before, I might as well knock up something with minimal difficulty/expense. Sacrifice longevity for low weight and cost, and then when I need to replace it I might know what I'm doing! I'm planning on building mine next winter so maybe see you for a wee match race
  4. That looks perfect. Didn't realise it was available. Will have to see how the budget is looking closer to the time! Do you find it helps to deflect spray? I may be worrying over nothing but I suspect the Spindrift may be a little wetter than a deflatable dink in choppy conditions.
  5. I'm planning to build a Spindrift 11N as a tender to my yacht, hopefully starting working on it at the end of this summer. Good fendering will be essentially for this boat, as I need to be happy lying alongside the bigger boat in all sorts of conditions while transferring people. I'm used to inflatables and it's great not even having to think about fendering when the whole boat is one big blow up toy. It would be interesting to see what solutions people have come up with, as I don't particularly want to reinvent the wheel. - a string of sausage fenders sounds cheap and easy, but maybe a bit untidy/flappy? - an old fashioned rope fender would look great, but I imagine anything big enough to offer serious protection is going to be heavy - sewn pads with foam inserts might work, I have seen these on other rigid tenders - pool noodles or large diameter foam pipe insulation might work, but I imagine it would need very frequent replacement - boat rollers are used on some designs, they are quite chunky and only available in certain sizes, but if I find something that fits they might be a good option My own idea with which I am toying is to use industrial layflat hose. This is made of PVC so in theory I should be able to glue it using dinghy repair adhesive. This would allow me to make tubes of a custom size, with valves for inflation. Or perhaps just use the hose as a heavy duty cover over foam. I'm thinking of 3" as a suitable size offering good fendering, a bit of reserve buoyancy, and the ability to act as a spray rail, but without constantly dipping a tube in the water whilst sailing. Look forward to seeing what everyone else has done.
  6. Partly time/effort, partly money. I need this boat to be my main 'daily driver', as a tender to a bigger boat- the sailing capabilities are a bonus. I could follow the herd and get a RIB of course, but there's various reasons why I want to go down the Spindrift path instead.
  7. I've been trying to track down a Laser as a donor for rig and foils- I'm sure if I wait long enough something will come up. Presumably some similar dinghies would also suit as donors- Europe? Byte? There are Toppers everywhere but I guess the sail area is a bit too small. It would be interesting to hear about people's experiences in using rig and foils from other dinghies, as I'm sure some will work much better than others.
  8. Quite interested in this aspect- I'm not in any way a petrol head, but sometimes it's extremely handy to be able to get somewhere quickly! 6hp is about double what the Spindrift 10 is rated for... how does it cope with this, is it gnarly at all, and what sorts of speeds do you achieve?
  9. Thanks again for the very useful comments and advice. I'm quite amazed to hear that an unsheathed boat made from 6mm ply could have a 25 year service life. Not what I would have expected at all. I hadn't considered that using a 10mm core would interfere with the nesting ability- obvious when it is pointed out. I would actually be able to store the boat un-nested on deck, one half in front of the babystay and one aft of it. I have plenty of deck space, it's just divided into lots of little bits! Perhaps making the boat in two parts, but not nesting, would open up some options, like a thicker core, or a different seating/buoyancy arrangement in the aft section. It does seem a shame to throw away the nesting ability, though. I will have to do some ringing around local suppliers to see what is available to me, but from what I can find online there is a huge variance in quality. Some 6mm Okume ply is only 3 ply, I presume I want to go for 5 if I can get it? The weights per m2 seem to vary a lot as well. I'm not sure if it's as simple as heavier=better, certainly I don't want to add weight to the finished product. A total newbie comment here: I'm quite surprised at the quantity of epoxy that goes into one of these boats- the BoM for the 11N suggests up to 23 litres, which must comprise a significant portion of the finished weight of the boat. At UK prices this looks like the single biggest chunk of the budget too, although again there is probably more research I can do here to find lower prices. As several other people seem to have done, I will likely be adapting a rig from a Laser or similar, both to reduce costs and build time. One other aspect of the build that I haven't looked into yet is fendering. A string of small sausage fenders is probably about as easy as it gets, but not very elegant. It would be interesting to see what other people have found to work.
  10. Thanks for that Dave, encouraging words. I wonder if I could get by with a slightly smaller boat, maybe the 10N instead. I can leave that decision until later of course. At the moment I'm investigating different material options. Locally available 'marine' ply would cost around £180 but might be very heavy- twice the weight of Okoume ply. I don't think I can get Okoume locally, my nearest stockist is about £290 but would be an overnight road trip to collect. If I go down the composites route, my choices seem to be PET foam, or Nidaplast honeycomb, in either 5mm or 10mm. These all work out cheaper and lighter than Okoume, until you factor in the epoxy/glass. As a tender that will see daily use, I think it will be necessary to fully sheath the hull anyway. So the question is, how much additional glass/epoxy would I end up using over a composite core?
  11. Hi next year my family of three will be setting off for a few years of liveaboard cruising, aiming for an Atlantic circuit. Our yacht has a babystay, limiting deck space to 2m max- and a bit less if we want easy access to the windlass. We have davits which we'll use for overnight stowage but not for serious passagemaking. I think a nesting dinghy is the best way to use the available space. Our tender will need to primarily be a practical utility boat, capable of carrying three people and some shopping. I expect to use the outboard most of the time. A decent turn of speed under motor, even if only when lightly loaded, would be useful. It should be light enough that we can drag it up a beach, and sturdy enough to cope with daily use. Having said all that, I am a sucker for a pretty boat that sails well (we learned to sail in a Wayfarer), and so I am leaning towards a Spindrift 11N. Good performance under oars would also be a big plus, as that is the main problem with our current rollup Avon. I don't want the dinghy project to take up too much time/effort/budget, but I'm not afraid of a bit of a challenge if the end result is worth it. I know that a Catspaw would probably be easier, and there are various other pram plans around, but none of them really float my boat as much as the Spindrift. So if I'm aiming for rough-and-ready, what's a realistic build time for the 11N? I've seen figures of between 40 and 120 hours quoted, but I guess everybody is working to a different standard of finish. I'm also really interested in going down the composite route- @ForthBridge's build is certainly food for thought. I live in a pretty remote part of Scotland so it might actually be easier to source composites than good quality marine ply, as the smaller sheets are easier to deliver. I don't expect to be starting the build until around October, as my 'workshop' is actually a holiday cottage which will be occupied until then. It will be great having a big space at room temperature and be able to do epoxy work in the depths of winter. I haven't told the wife about this part of the plan yet
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