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Wommasehn last won the day on January 10 2019

Wommasehn had the most liked content!

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About Wommasehn

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    Tübingen, Germany
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  1. Meanwhile I have bought an Epropulsion spirit 1.0. I couldn’t try it out yet but it seems to have similar performance data to the Torqueedo 1003c except for the noise and it is considerably cheaper than the Torq. 1103c. See how it behaves. The battery can be connected by an extension so that its weight can be put in a less disturbing place
  2. Hi Chick, I'm so glad, that youre posting again some build. Really looking forward for the next steps and the finished boat. I missed your reports lately..... Go ahead! Tobias
  3. There was talk about heavier ballasted CBs. My Diabolo("Muckla") has such a thing and I have experience with it. Originally it had 50 kgs of lead in the lower half, some time ago, I put in another lump of 10 kgs in so the whole thing weighs 75 kgs on land: 60 kgs of lead + 15of plywood and glassfibre. It is raised and lowered by a simple trailer-winch, that sits under the bridge-deck which is also the cockpit locker. It takes one hand and about 15 secs to get it completely up or down. So no great chore. Furthermore it has a downhaul (which I sometimes forget to uncleat.....), that prevents the CB from falling into the trunk, should she ever go turtle. The boat has some internal ballast too, about another 60 kgs, including ground tackle, battery and toolbox. Recently I have done a heeling test. I hauled her over to about 90 deg. It was really hard to get her on her to something like 60 deg., the rest was easier. When the mast was horizontal, I tied a bucket full of water to the top. It just held the mast down. The bucket contained 12 liters of water, so I guess, the righting force at the mast top was about 10 kgs. I had hoisted the furled Code0 to simulate the weight of the mainsail in addition to the furled jib. This made the test as realistic as it can be single handed. I assume, that, should she ever go close to 90 deg, I would lay on- or straddle the side and thus be somewhere close to the pivoting point. All in all, I am very happy with the ballasted CB - unless I have to take it out - or even worse: install it back again.
  4. Thanks for sharing, Chick, nice writing - and nice pics as usual. I have bought an inflatable kayak meanwhile (sorry - I know, this is a boatbuilding forum - but anyway) in which I was paddling on a small river in northern Germany in our vacation. A cormorant swam before me and dived as I approached. Unfortunately he dived in the same direction as I was paddling. And so he was annoyed to see me even closer when he came to the surface again. This happened 3 or 4 times until he finally surfaced behind me and felt safe.
  5. Thank you Frank for sharing this wonderful story - tear in my eye too Tobias
  6. the same from me: Thank You, Paul for the story, that gives a lot to think about. This was propably one of the things no one expected to happen. So many stories start with "who would have thought....." Did the masts fill with water ? did you have any kind of flotation inside them? on my previous boat , a dinghy, I noticed a great difference between a mast with big holes and my later mast with only small ones. The latter slowed the turtling process down. Take care, all of you! Tobias
  7. Done! Done is better than perfect as someone said on this forum. Muckla & I agree. The paint- and bedding-jobs may not be exeptionally pretty but its strong, its watertight and looks ok from a distance. 20 ft should be ok for a 20-footer, right? Unfortunately there is more to do than this repair - but we are getting closer to finally starting the sailing season. And that is good enough.
  8. wow - thanks Chick. Great reading and wonderful pictures. Will there be a volume of your building-reports and another one of your cruising and philosophing stories?
  9. Yes, I am one of those who can't open it. (the other reader)
  10. Muckla is ill. Its fore-deck-rot. First thing I noticed was a crack in the paint. Strangely straigtht and strangely perpendicular to the center line. I removed the paint and found a glue-line where the front-piece had been joined to the main part of the fore deck - with no scarph, no butt-block and no glass cloth - but now rotten plywood around. Obviously this joint had losened and moisture got in. After some initial swearing, I thought of Chick's nice essay on "How good is good enough" and thought well - this is defenitely not good enough - what a sloppy workmanship! Then I remembered, that the boat including this joint is 25 years old and you might expect some age-related issues. Is 25 yrs good enough? - how bad do you have to make it that it might be called really bad? Meanwhile I raked, chiseled and sanded away the softish wood and 2 gaps opened, to port I found more rot and cleaned it out too. I considered a new piece of fore deck but then it seemed that a local repair would be easier. First I applied some wood preservative. As the underside of this part is not accessible I wondered how to make a stronger joint. I cut 2 plywood patches to fit under the gaps, drilled a hole in each one, fastened a string and inserted them under the deck. By pulling on the string, I turned them right side up and I could apply the pressure to glue them under the deck (Photo 2: dry-fit on port, inserting on starboard). The remaining cavity I closed by glass + epoxy. A missing small piece in the middle-carling (or is it deck-stringer?), I have filled with a dowel, wrapped in glass + epoxy. As I have a shortage of fillers, I used partly sanding-dust and partly wheat-flour (high- density-filler on the lower and more important parts). Seemes to work ok. There's something more: the forestay-fitting is reliably bolted to the carlings, just where the center- and the intermediate carlings meet (the light wood in the photo). But how is the center-carling attached to the stem ?? - I can't see it, I can't feel (or hear or smell) it - it's just not clear. So I decided to make some aditional fastening by drilling an oversized hole through the base-plate of the pullpit, through the deck, through the carling and into the stem. Then I cut a 8 mm threaded rod, filed some notches into it's lower part and epoxied it in. This will be very strong, I think. Having had a week off, I could work on the boat a few days in a row. Tomorrow I'm back to "real work" and the next boat-job will be sanding. What a great fun.......
  11. Hi Charlie, welcome back - back being really well, I hope. I have read most of your posts and wondered why there were no new ones as I really liked them and learned a lot. Good luck Tobias
  12. its winter-time again and the one or other maybe in need for something to watch. Has every- some- or anyone followed Leo's videos about his rebuild of Tally-ho? https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=sampson+boat+co And has every- some- or anyone followed Jess and Chris through their voyage through the north west passage on Teleport ? http://yachtteleport.com/ (not sure if those links work - but you'll find it anyway. enjoy! Tobias
  13. Thanks gyus for your replies! @ Meester: Speed of course is not my only criterion - but its important to me - and it is one of those which I can't judge by myself. @ Oyster: the ramp acually is'nt so good. It is in Friedrichshafen, Lake Constance. This is by far the largest body of water around here. It is very beautiful with scenic landscapes around, pretty towns and villages everywhere and lots of historic sites, litteraly starting from stone age. All this of course makes it a magnet for tourists, so at times it's quite crowded. If you really want a link:here it is: https://www.bodenseekreis.de/.? As for wooden power-boats: there are a few boatyards around .Here is a link to one of them: https://www.martin-yachten.de/yachtbau/motoryachten.html You asked for it.... Who said, he was a photo-addict?
  14. Nice story, nice writing. Thanks Old Codger, thanks Chick!
  15. Seems I get a second chance for my topic - this time even with pictures. Sometimes I dream about building and sailing a Core Sound 20#3. I love the looks of her, I love the idea of water ballast, I love having a mizzen and this size of cabin and more. But then : I love my existing boat too - and I wonder how the CS would sail in comparison to her. And I wonder how some people can read performance from the lines or pictures or data. So here are the basic informations about my boat: Her name is Muckla and she is a Diabolo, designed by Jüs Segger. A word about Jüs: he was trained as a boat-builder and became later an engeneer and yacht-designer, drawing and selling plans, mainly for plywood hard-chine-boats, aimed for the amateur-builder...... (anyone heared of a similar career??). The Diabolo is 20 ft long, has about 190 sqft of working sail area + lapper and/or spinnaker and/or code 0. She has a ballasted centerboard. The lead in the cb is 60 kgs + about 30 kgs of internal ballast + the heavy equipment in the bilge. This gives her a decent end-stability though I doubt if she would be self-righting if necessary. I rather not try. Initial stability is rather low so you can fine-trim her by moving your body. According to the previous owner she weighs about 600 kgs fully equpped. In about 4 bft on a beam-reach she starts semi-planing with speeds of around 7 kts (hull-speed is just under 6), in a f 5-6 she gets to full-planing. I have read up to 10 kts on the gps so far. So for her size she is quite fast and also well-mannered. Only when reaching in very gusty conditions, she gets a bit catty. So, all you knowledgable folks: if there was a race between a CS20#3 and a Diabolo - which one would be in front under which conditions - and: how do you know?? I hope, the data + pics give enough information. Looking forward very much to your thoughts & feelings, Tobias
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