PeterP

The name is Petrel and the entire build can be found here at Princess Sharpie 28. PeterP

It is a custom design. Round bilge, longer than the 26 and has just on 6' head room which I find comfortable being 6'1". Boat weighs 5000 # (not fully provisioned) and draws just on 2 ft with the centerboard up. There is 14 HP diesel that burns less than 1 gal per hour at 2000 rpm with 15 gal tank. Two Freedom batteries 200 Ah, 100 W solar panel with full fuse panel and smart charger/inverter. Composting toilet in an enclosed head, 40 gal water in two tanks. There is a two burner plus oven marine stove and 25# fiberglass LP tank. Ice box that holds 100# of ice. Sits on a trailer. I tow it with Ford F150 2.8L Eco boost. Made a trip to Charleston, SC cruising at 55MPH. Good quality cabinetry through out. The entire build is documented here on this forum. PeterP

After much soul searching wife and I decided to put Petrel up for sale. We are still able to sail and enjoy her but it is definitely getting harder. PeterP

After much soul searching wife and I decided to put Petrel up for sale. We are still able to sail and enjoy her but it is getting definitely harder. PeterP

Don, I have always used Devoe polyurethane (379) and believe you me - I sympathize . Bear in mind that polyurethanes are moisture and temperature activated. In summer it can be a trial. Spraying always worked the best for me because it goes on fast and even. It may help to get your gear set up the night before ( including lights) and then get up at four in the morning, throw your paint together and go at it. If you use HVLP sprayer you may need to run your hose through bucket of ice to keep the air hose cool. The turbine has a tendency to heat up the air supply causing the paint to flash set and you'll get a nice orange peel or powder coat effect. Good luck PeterP

I built both - 25 something years ago.

I don't want to tell you stuff you may know already. On the face of it rolling paint is dead simple. But two part poly can throw you for a loop. It has eaten my rollers making them shed. It started to flash before I could roll it out adequately leaving perceptible stripes in high gloss finishes. Yes -spraying can be problematic too but think about this: last time you had your car in the body shop -did they roll the paint or spray it? PeterP

If you plan on doing a fair bit of spraying then you could go for a good quality HVLP gun and build your own turbine using a vacuum cleaner blower. HVLP guns cut way down on over spray. Building your own will save you a good chunk of change. I did my gun (Fuji) close to thirty years ago. Still works great although less efficiently now that the cooling fan blades on the blower have a fair bit of paint built up on them. (Over spray) I'm thinking about buying a better rated blower - 12 psi+. Up from 9 psi. Some things I definitely prefer to spray. Certainly when it comes to large complicated items. But be aware of the set up time -it can eat you up. I can spray one side of my 28' in about an hour. When I tried to re-coat last time with a roller it didn't come out right. I had to go back and buff out a lot of roller edge lines. It ended up being very time consuming. PeterP

I have used it on rudder tips and center boards. I don't see why it would not work on small boat keels. I use any old line that's not good enough for first line work on a sail boat anymore. My favorite is a double braid dacron. Soaks up epoxy well and when scuffed in grounding the fuzz can be slicked down quickly. Stay away from kevlar if you can. Impossible to finish slick. Good luck PeterP

Don, I sent you a PM. Peter

I have sitka spruce sitting in the garage. Six pieces left over from the last boat I built. 2x6x16ft. Five bucks a board ft. You pick up in Greenville,NC. I'm cleaning up.PeterP

Can't wait for them to get into the Southern ocean. Cape of Good Hope, Cape Leeuwin, Cape Horn. It'll be interestin to see what speeds they can squeeze out of those foillers in those latitudes and the fierce competitive atmosphere they are in. This is a good way to do the Roaring Forties I guess - in my easy chair with three hot meals a day guarantied whether I need them or not. Let's GO!

If you are like me -sitting around doing nothing you may be interested in watching the ultimate sailboat race. It is in French but don't let that discourage you. The site is actually is very intuitive once you get on it and you only need about four words to be able to decipher it. Vitesse-speed, Cap-course, Distance parcourue - distance covered, D. restante - d. to finish. Noeud is knot in English. The weather overlay is where the fun comes in - you can see how they play the winds to get those incredible times - Hugo Bass is doing 21 knots in 11knot wind in 6ft (2m) seas as I'm writing this. Wow! https://www.vendeeglobe.org/fr/cartographie

You don't really need any French for this. Just watch the clips of boats hammering along at 35 knots. Mesmerizing. PeterP https://www.lefigaro.fr/fig-data/vendee-globe/

What's the rush says he?

Get a nice Stanley block plane and a nice Hock iron for it since the factory iron is pretty much worthless. Block plane will be useful for endless number of trim jobs. Plywood edges etc. Good for shaping stringers, gunnels etc. Since you have a router think about getting a couple of round over bits. 1/4 in and 3/8 in for starters. Finally, don't forget a box of drywall screws. Frankly , I don't know how people ever managed to build boats without those. Good luck PeterP

Matt, pull out your boat plans. On the side elevation sheet draw a line from the top of the bow all the way across the top of the transom. Parallel to the waterline. Draw a vertical from the transom to intersect you line. You will need a scale/ architect ruler to read off that distance and translate it into real inches and fractions. Clamp a vertical stick to the transom and mark that measurement on it. Grab a piece of string and pull it tight between the mark you just made and the tip of the bow. Hang a bubble level in the middle of the string and start fiddling with the trailer. You may want to figure out your water line at the same time. Good luck PeterP

Mark just beat me to it. His is a good way of doing it. Your thinking of epoxying the eye in works but if you need to take that thing out later it'll be work. Making the epoxy bushing takes time upfront because have to drill the same hole twice. In fact if you aren't careful and let your drill bit wander you could be drilling that final whole more than once. I have done that. PeterP

With your stem taped inside and outside you don't need anymore glass tape there. Glassing the top of the backing block on the other hand provides additional compressive strength and ensures water resistance. Lapping that glass onto the ply of the hull helps distribute the stress load. Moisture ingress is a potential problem here. Drilling oversize holes and making epoxy bushings before putting the eye in is an excellent solution. PeterP

I love mine. I've had Raspberry 3B with 7in screen and BU 353 puck GPS for about 4 years. Last year I bought the 4 with 2GB RAM and 10 in screen. So I now have a redundant system. I don't know what AIS receiver you have - I use my Standard Horizon VHF to generate AIS signal for the Raspberry. But honestly, for my kind of sailing around here -AIS is not that important. I saw it in action only twice on a sail to Ocracoke. The thing beeped me as we were coming up to the car ferry and then it beeped me again for a sand barge. Made for very exciting day on the water. Open CPN is now a stand alone program that used to be part of Navigatrix which is something you may want to look into for your long distance cruising plans. By the way - wife is still onto me about starting a beehive. Can you keep bees on a boat I wonder? Cheers PeterP

I have not done a 12 but I built a 10 a while back. This is how I would do it: you have your dagger board I presume. Build the case dry and clamp/ screw it together to see how how the board works inside. An eight of an inch clearance sounds OK but 3/16 would be something I would personally go for. Whatever Graham recommends. When you're happy take it all apart. You will have two ply faces and two posts. Glass both plywood (entire) panels on what will be the inside face. Glass the inner face of your posts. Even 2oz cloth fully coated is going to be a whole lot tougher than neat epoxy. With 4 oz you will never have to worry about the inside. Flood coat the glass. Cure it and try everything for fit one more time. Scuff the glass where the posts will go onto the plywood. Glue the posts down on one panel. Run a nice fillet.Cure it. Glue the other panel on. Fillet the last joints with a long stick and you are done. Good luck PeterP

My heart goes out to your friend. If I lived closer he could have my Spindrift. I also have one or two boats too many. Is there any other way he can be helped? PeterP

There you go. I had to do the same thing. Never a flat spot around when you need it -seems like. PeterP

My P-28 is not a plywood boat but the hull is wood core- so essentially the same thing. My transducer came with a two part plastic fitting that was supposed to fit through a hole in the bottom of the boat. Holds the sending unit and screws together to make the assembly waterproof. I did not like that idea at all. What I did was to hole saw down to the outer glass skin, removed all the wood and epoxied a piece of PVC pipe into the hole. I then filled the bottom of the pipe with CLEAR epoxy to come back to the original hull thickness. You want clear to make sure there are no air bubbles. It's the air that degrades/kills the signal. After it cures fill the pipe with mineral oil, drop the sending unit in and put a PVC cap on and away you go. Your pipe needs to be just a smidgen bigger that your sending unit so the sender does not bounce around. It also needs to be totally full of oil. Again you don't want any air bubbles. Mine works really well and I have one less through hull to worry about. Good luck PeterP

I used Amerlock 2/400 epoxy primer and Amercoat 450H two part polyurethane. Exactly same system I put on the boat. Got good mileage out of my paint cans that way. Not a marine paint as such but it is a GOOD stuff. Both were actually designed for metal application so the mast makes for a preferred application from manufacturer's point of view. Glass comes close second in my experience. Held up really well over 5 years. Sprayed the boat and rolled the masts. Installed hardware after painting, Used Tuffgell on screws. PeterP