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J. Cote

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J. Cote last won the day on April 24

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  1. I think you found the 3" explanation, Graham. My plans show a wood plug 6" long with 3" in the tube, 3" out. Alan shipped me the plastic plugs (top & bottom) so I can visually understand their impact on length now. My plans also show a wood upper section. I was pleasantly surprised to find an aluminum upper section in the kit. However, on the plans, the 230" total length appears to visually include the wood heel plug (of +3").
  2. Wow! You just made me realize that my "layman's logic" is interfering with Graham's intricately calculated design. I had to look up "heal force"........ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Forces_on_sails I haven't studied forces, vectors, velocity, speed, etc... in decades. This web page is going to take a few revisits from me before I totally "get it". Bottom line: Don't "F" with Graham's design. 👍😉
  3. When I laid out my Mast sections with 9" bearing overlaps, I was 3" longer than the plans (233" vs 230" design). I figured out that my top section is 3'-8" instead of the 3'-5" design. My inclination is to keep the extra 3" (heck - more head room from the boom.....right?) But I don't want to assume that is OK and regret it later when I try to rig the sail, lines & hardware, try sailing it, etc. If the answer is to stick with the plan length, I could either trim the top section to plan length or make 10" bearing overlaps. Recommendations?
  4. Wow! What an incredible project. Love the rotation device you made to flip the boat over.
  5. Thanks for the timely photos, Mark. I just flipped my S12 to start the keel. I like your clever "clamp/strap" hold downs.
  6. Thanks Graham, great idea on the 3/8" round over bit for the legs. How about the gunwale inner where your back rests? Do you do a 3/8" there too?
  7. First question: In the photo below are some blue lines at the seat tops. Some of my seat top overhangs (the lateral ones) are up to 9mm of overhang. I was planning on making a router 1/4" radius on all the blue lines & then blending into those soft sweeping curves around the corners. Is there a reason to keep any of these overhangs? I suppose if I wanted to do a paint color change, a slight overhang would give me a clean paint line. Second question: also in the photo, are 2 orange lines marking the vertical seams above the seats. Should these seams be glassed? What about the to
  8. Now I have to ask.... What did you use for the floor non skid?
  9. Thank you Alan for all your help. This is great!
  10. Alan, did you put the doubler on Randy's S12 next door? I'll guarantee that I tugged on that "handle" with all my might while trying desperately to get back in the boat. HA HA. I don't remember worrying about it giving way. I'm finding the coats of epoxy really add strength. On another note, where did you find the grey seat pads on Randy's boat? It really helps make it a non slip surface.
  11. Hi Alan, You put these Seat Doubler Triangle blocks in for the seats unsupported radii on your CS15. Do you recommend them for the S12 as well?
  12. I see I jumped to conclusions. Now I see on the plans, that a "wood plug" goes in the bottom of the mast (what I think you are calling the "heel"). The top section of my mast is a closet rod.... I assumed it didn't need a cap. However, my S12 Mast Kit parts list includes: "Starboard mast caps (top & bottom)". Alan is going to ship these later, so I currently don't have a visual of these parts to help me understand their purpose.
  13. I love the name "Norma T". Wonderful tribute to your Mom. My sister passed 3 months ago. She always said she wanted her ashes dropped from a plane over a lake. Her ashes are watching over my S12 build. I think she would love my modification of "from a sailboat" rather than a plane.
  14. PadrePoint, what paint type & color did you select? It looks great! I planned to go red & white on my S12 using Alan's Devoe product, but couldn't decide the shade of red.
  15. I may have goofed, and looking for your inputs to resolve. My mast step (prior to fillet & glassing the inner seams) fit nicely. The Mast would slip through the collar and nest into the step with no effort. After "fillet & glass", the mast struggles to find the step. Feels like the step has moved aft in the boat & the mast binds in the collar (see photos). I thought the bottom of the step originally fit the contour of the boat, but my before & after photos tell me that relationship has not changed. So I have 3 questions regarding the mast step: 1)
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