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Everything posted by makenmend

  1. Very interesting, what are the power requirements, performance, cruise speed and estimated fuel usage, ?? mm
  2. Good decision, use the boat have fun and make a thorough job in the off season. I've had good success on all my boats using Epoxy/graphite, easy to see any problems and quick to repair, if you disregard curing time. MM
  3. Some build pics here http://messing-about.com/forums/topic/8025-hull-342/ Completed the Texas 200 the past 2 years in her, she took good care of us.
  4. My Core Sound 17 is up for sale here http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/classified.htm
  5. I have found that if your going to re coat the next day or real soon putting the roller in a zip lock baggie then in the freezer,I can re use that roller when it thaws out. MM
  6. I glassed my decks primarily because I used Western Red Cedar, both sides with 6 oz cloth MM
  7. beautiful build, congratulations. Ready in time for a full season of pleasure.
  8. well 1st impression is pretty good, the inner lip is a tad over 1.5'' so through my application (3/8'' ply) I"ll have to remove quite a fair amount (1'') for a flush fit. The seal looks to be good, wouldn't say water tight but certainly splash proof. Only time will tell. A good amount of sealant will be needed to install as well.
  9. Just ordered 2 of those oval ports for my Strike 18' build, will let you know what they're like when they arrive. Five Oceans is a Baron company, there products seem to be well priced as far as I can see. MM
  10. Jim regarding breakage from fore/aft stress as Steve W points out, with after tension straps and the tension from the fwd attachment, again I don't think you'll have a problem. this is just being held with mashing tape very sturdy. In my case, the addition of the after canvas meant no straps were required, with lashing hooks fixed around the combing and bungee cord passed through the hem my dodger can be erected/ folded in seconds. My requirements were full sit up headroom ( I"m only 5'6'' ) to dress, potty privacy, even boil water when raining ect. The sail will pass across no problem, although I haven't tried to sail with it up yet (Texas is mostly dry )
  11. I added a zipper to enclose completely, with long enough flaps to reach and seal the bottom with fishing weights sewn in the hem to keep in place. Works well but lacks ventilation. A camp fan works but thinking on Velcro mosquito mesh netting, maybe challenge my sewing skills and add front facing window plus net. Only problem I had was water build up in the boat, hence that boom tent lash up that made huge difference, except ease of access. MM
  12. Jim, looking at the radius of your poles I don't think you'll ever suffer a breakage. Whilst experimenting with camping/dodger setups i tried using fiberglass tent pole, I deliberately bent some to failure, they went far past the curvature you have. I eventually settled on a dodger, using 1/2'' sch 40 pvc bent using a heat gun around a mandrel ( coffee can ). The pvc was only meant to serve as a template for making Aluminum hoops but after assembling using Bimini fitting they seemed sturdy enough and have been in use for a couple of years and weathered some pretty nasty storms. Your version is more suitable for sailing though, mine more for sleep aboard,
  13. Did a similar thing a few weeks ago,but not as severe as yourself, for me a big reminder to be more attentive. So quick so easy,healed fine (happily ). Hope you have a speedy recovery to, and I know you'll be back at it soon and more causious to. MM
  14. Well done Hal, some useless information,those jets gum up quite easily. That motor is also made in 4 and 5 hp,the only difference is the carburetor,which is available complete. 2 Phillips screws 2cables swap and your done. MM
  15. Great ! "We plan, God laughs!" How true, apart from that I'll be at Eufala come October. Have done the last 2 years Tx 200 in my core sound and both times with non sailing crew that took to it like a ducks out of water, had difficulty getting to helm myself !! makenmend comes from my old Royal Navy days, used to mean in old sailing days time off to make repairs ect, in modern days the afternoon off for shore leave. Appropriate for just taking off to build ones boat or go sail.
  16. Hal I would definitly be interested in doing the cruise rather than race, keep me in the loop if you decide for sure. Are you doing SailOK this year ?? MM
  17. JP " the epoxy is a little soft, able to be dented a bit with a fingernail pushed hard. '' How long ago was this done and what temprature do you have, how are you measuring your mix's ? what ratio,? I would be inclined to allow a longer set up if the ratio is only slightly off, Had similar situation earlier this year using medium hardner ( 3 to 1 using pumps), still as you described 2 days later, but did fully cure in a week. MM
  18. I just used a shallow pan and camp stove, towel wrapped ply then clamped up. I finished bright, 3 years in and still looks OK
  19. Well done on slimeing your boat, and good eating to. All I ever caught were Lampuki (think that's what they call them) kind of like mullet, from Sliema Creek off the minesweepers there in early 60's. Great boat for that area. MM
  20. Just finished the Texas 200 in CS 342, took 4 of those bladders filled with tap water as back up drinking/showering/ballast, didn't need them though. They also make a decent camp pillow when wrapped in a towel. MM
  21. OK, confession time, after priming the stbd side I found a number of small inperfections that I needed to fair.Mixed up a small amount of Quickfair and applied with putty knife. Next day went to sand fair but clogged up my abranet disc right off !! after a couple of days it still didn't seem to set up, I wondered if it was a reaction with my primer. Endad up scraping it all off down to bare wood. Turns out it was my fault, mixed up (2 to 1) by eye and got it wrong. I later did the port side the same way but used my electronic scale to measure correctly, applied the same and worked as advertised. Lesson learned !! MM
  22. I do sheath both sides with 6 oz cloth, the topside after gluing deck to hull, trimming to size and rounding edges to take overlap to hull. All epoxy wet out done with squeegee and chip brush for edges still requires another fill coat before sandind and varvishing. MM
  23. Don, it's really quite easy,but more time comsuming, trace your deck outline (i used 36'' wide painters paper) Place on wood working surface and allow at least 1" extra all round, and cover with a clear plastic sheet. Select your wood. I used western fed cedar, ripped into 3/4'' x 1/4'' strips. Then edge glue (titebond III ) using small brads at regular intervals ( I go with 12'' alternating every strip so every 6'' effectivly ) to clamp up. Next day remove nails/clamps turn over to let bottom fully dry.Then no matter how carefully I cut my strips and how careful I was gluing up, you will have a slight uneven surface, so now comes our favourite thing to do SANDING. OR if you have a planer, as I now do, (huge time saver) I made my deck up in panels the width my planer can take,then jioned the planed panels with thickened epoxy. which means a little sanding,but not much.
  24. I have some and it works pretty good, sands easily, but can leave very small indentions after sanding. I recently tried the Quick Fair from Duckworks, a lot more convienient, dries much faster and sands great here's the fairing at the bow where 2 layers of glass needes to blend in,and the edge of the sheathing. the same from different angle then primed, looks good even up close. MM
  25. excellent workmanship in very tight quarters, beautiful boat. MM
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