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Designer

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Everything posted by Designer

  1. Steve, I do not know why you find reefing on the water difficult? I find it very easy and quick to reef on the water and that I have a very efficient sail when reefed. I can only think that you do not have it set up correctly. The most important component in the system is the block on the luff. It must be a ball bearing block and have almost no friction under load. The reason is that with the 2:1 purchase in the system, means that twice as much line has to run through that block than runs through the clew cringle. If there is any friction in that block, the clew will not draw down to the boom. To reef, I ease the main sheet, lower the sail to the mark on the halyard, pull on the reefing line until the reefing clew comes to the boom, pull in the mainsheet to suit my course and sail away.
  2. This discussion goes to show that everyone can be happy doing things differently and getting similar results. I probably drive Carlita a bit harder than most prudent skippers. I am doing it for R&D, that is my story and I am sticking to it. I have 16 square feet less area in Carlita's main than the 20mk3 and I prefer the 4:1main sheet. It is the last few feet when sheeting in hard in a fresh breeze that I need it. I might be able to getaway with 3:1 but I prefer double ended sheets on the main. I have 2:1 single ended sheet on the mizzen and sometimes I have to pull hard to sheet it in where I want it. I am using our 5/16" braid for the sheets. At 4:1 the main sheet is long but it just stacks up in two piles just behind the mizzen mast in the bottom of the cockpit. I can remember two times on our grand cruise that I had to untangle the main sheet but it was minor. If I keep the mizzen running lines tidy so that they cannot get involved with the main sheet I do not seem to have any issues. I like the pennant between sprit and the sheets. I cannot see any down side (I do not expect too many people who have sailed more than once who would sit with their head between the mizzen mast and the mainsheet) but I see a lot of upside. For me, getting rid of 6' of line for the same sheeting angle, lowering the CG of the main sheet and reducing windage, not to mention buying 6' less line. While some of these advantages might seem miniscule in the big picture, If you follow this logic throughout the boat it adds up to why some boats seem faster than others. Dennis Connor's mantra was "no excuse to lose". Another important reason why we chose that line for sheets has been mentioned but not explained; is that it is lighter. Again in the big picture, that might not seem like a big deal. It also does not absorb water. Try dunking dacron and see how heavy it feels. When running in light air, the heavier sheet sags into the water, gets heavier and drags in the water even more. I am not saying that our sheets never drag in the water but it is a lot easier keep them from dragging than dacron. If you are using our sheets and they are dragging in the water, look for one of the sheet parts that is tighter than the rest and adjust all of the parts to be of equal tension. When the sheets are eased out to 90 degrees or more, the snotter tightens slightly on boats with tabernacles, this is trying to force the sail back toward the center of the boat causing the sheet to sag, more noticeable in light air. Ease the snotter slightly.
  3. Here is the first installment. It was a grand adventure but as much fun as it was to leave, it was even better to return. The trip was everything that I hoped that it would be. People asked me why I rushed, I could have spent a year doing that trip but you cannot just abandon your home. We live in hurricane alley and I did not want to leave Carla to have to face one alone. I was able to get a good flavor of the area and I can drive to places in the future and I can do a section in as much depth as I like. I did this trip for many reasons. It is obvious that my voyaging days are over so I made this like a mini voyage and I also wanted to prove the mk3’s as a valid coastal micro cruiser. Carlita turned out to be close to perfect for me. The only improvement that I can think of would be to have a 20 mk3. Nothing wore out or broke except for the wind indicator when I scraped it against the mizzen mast while raising the main mast between bridges. I was able to glue it back together. Note to self, watch the indicator as it passes by the mizzen mast. Beside being fast and easy to sail, navigating in shallow water was where she excelled. She covered many miles in water less than a foot deep with no centerboard or rudder, steering and tacking with just the sails. When aground I would walk around the boat, looking for deeper water. The bowsprit gave me the leverage to rotate the boat to face the deeper water. The boomkin was just the right height to lift and push. I usually got away with it, saving me from having to wait for the next tide. An electric pump for the water ballast would be handy so that you could lighten the boat quickly if the tide was falling. I tested the water ballast several times. I naively thought that Delaware Bay was going to give me a break. The forecast was SE 10 to 15 knots, I ended up with 2 reefs in each sail and still surfed to 8 knots. I broached her twice, the first time I was concentrating too hard on the chart and got way off course at the wrong time. The second, I got slammed on the starboard quarter by a breaking wave. The rudder ventilated down the low pressure side and around we went. To my amazement we never heeled past about 20 degrees and suddenly we were safely laying a-hull. Several times I deliberately rounded up to reef or to tend to some business but with the luxury of picking my time. Single handing can be hard sometimes. Another test was on the last day: There was a small craft warning for Pamlico Sound with forecast SW winds gusting from 20 to 30 knots. I was only 28 miles from home. I decided to get underway at 5 am to beat down the Pungo River and cross the Pamlico River before the wind reached full strength. The plan worked well and just before the Hobucken Cut got narrow I decided that I could afford to put the anchor down and have breakfast. I left the sails up as it was going to be a short stop. It was hot down below with the vent and hatch dogged down. I opened the hatch to full wind scoop, forgetting about the sail. It was very pleasant. Suddenly a big gust blew the bow to port and the reefed foot of the main caught on the hatch and we were laying over. By the time I got on deck and realized what the problem was we were upright and it was over. I lowered the hatch to just a foot above the deck and life was good again. When I went to raise the anchor it felt like it was fouled. It was the hardest breakout of the whole trip. I have some other ballast ideas to try but I think that it is valid as is. Steve, yes I brought the anchor back to the cockpit and I am very pleased with it. There is nothing special except that I have a cleat about 18” forward of the sheer break. I left the bitter end tied to the bowsprit tube and the main part of the 100 ft rode in the anchor locker, the rest was just flaked on the cockpit forward. The Danforth self launches because it does not stow neatly. The Bruce/ claw stows neatly but I have to give it several flicks from the cockpit before it will launch.
  4. I was not sure what to think when Alan said that they had been working on the boat but I thought that it was a pretty good joke when I saw the wheel.
  5. Hey Chick, You know how things never take longer to do than you hope. I have made good progress and with a bit of luck and the crick doesn't rise I will be out of here by the weekend.
  6. Dwg, Thanks for the offer. I will be near the beginning of my cruise when I pass Lynnhaven Inlet, if I have not forgotten or broken anything critical I should be okay but it is nice to know that there is a refuge right there if I need it.
  7. That is all good info Brad. I would love to see the Blue Angels again but I won't in the Annapolis area that early as I am intending to do the trip anti clockwise. Steve, I look forward to seeing your pictures and hearing about your trip. Matt, It is a minimum of 700 nautical miles.
  8. Mark, This is a little off topic here but I have bad news for you. There is no magic bullet for varnish. Epoxy has very poor UV resistance. There are some coatings that hold up a little better than varnish but they are heavily pigmented and do not look quite as good. If you want a quick long term coating, go for something with a solid pigment coating, paint. Alan said the day when we looked at my aging varnish that he might add a few touches of brown paint on his boat and maybe experiment with some feau streaks.
  9. Amos I hope to come down the Dismal swamp canal on my way home and I hope that I will see you.
  10. Hey Cruzer , the 14th is close to my departure date so I will certainly look out for you. We are just up the Bay River from the ICW. Your 4' of draft might be marginal at the end of our dock as our tidal height is wind driven. You can anchor 100 feet straight out from our dock in plenty of water.
  11. Thanks Brad. I have heard that Delaware Bay can be humiliating at times but I believe that it is mostly wind against tide so I will have to try and go with the flow as best as I can. I see that I can split that passage into two legs which would make it easier to work the tides. Of course being an optimist, in my planning I see fair winds and tides with sunny skies. I have never cruised the Chesapeake but I have done 6 deliveries south through the Bay where we ran non stop except for one trip where we pulled in to Solomons for the night when it started to snow.
  12. Joe, Great picture. Yesterday if I could. Bathroom remodeling takes longer to do than you hope. I am almost done and I am flatout on Carlita's trunk and freshening up her varnish. I hope to get underway within a couple of weeks.
  13. Circumnavigating the Delmarva Peninsula has been on my bucket list for a long time. Ever since my first road trip to the area on a cold fall day about 30 years ago, looking out across the marshes and sounds teeming with migrating birdlife, trying to see round the next bend only to be denied by the road leaving the water, I knew that I needed to come back one day in my own boat. Carlita may not seem like the ideal boat for this but when you look into it a little deeper, she may be more ideal than you might think. Shoal water abounds allowing greater exploration, being able to sail in 6-8” of water will be a big plus. Near the northern end of the Eastern Shore is the Assawoman Canal which is crossed by 2 low bridges with a listed vertical clearance of 3.9’. The canal is no longer maintained and is only used by small craft. She may be cramped by cruising boat standards but they cannot do it, compared to open boat cruising she is luxurious. Having lived aboard her for a couple of months and taken her in some pretty big water I am sure that we can handle it. The only weak link may be me. I will turn 78 in a few weeks and I have had Parkinson’s disease for the last decade and am nowhere near as physically capable as I was. I currently have Carlita in the shop and modifying her centerboard trunk to the mk3.2 location which will allow me to reef her further when going upwind. This trip will give me a great opportunity to evaluate the modification over a wide range of conditions. The large chart shows the whole voyage. See the red course line starting and finishing at B&B, lower left. The small chart starts at the southern tip of the Delmarva peninsular. For anyone not familiar with the area, the highway running through the chart is the Chesapeake Bay tunnel bridge. The soundings are in feet and it is 5 nautical miles between the pins.
  14. The instructions for the centerboard pin was correct for the the mk3.1's. On the mk3.2 which you are building, the board was moved forward causing us to flip the pin as the cover plate hit the bunk top. On the mk3.2 we decided to give up on the detailed instructions and do more detailed plan sheets but we threw in the instructions anyway. We will look into the instructions correct them. It should not be a problem to back fill the hole. If you are you are concerned you could put a small glass patch over the hole on the outside. My preferred bumper is to turn the trunk upside down with the bottom edge of the bumper level. You need a temporary side and ends, then squirt in 100 percent silicone from your caulking gun until you reach the correct level. Put some mold release on the faces that will touch the silicone so that they can be removed. With this method you will have no fasteners that could leak into the trunk. I cut hardened silicone tubes into 1 1/4" slices and counterbore the center to take a washer. I use a large screw through the washer and screw the donut onto something stout for a great door stop. I have watched a heavy wind gust slam our big shop doors against my stop which has compressed to about half it's thickness absorbing all of that energy. It must be about 15 years old by now.
  15. I agree with Peter. I think that that the worst offender was sailing with the topping lift on probably preventing proper snotter tension. If you stop the video at 32' 39" you can see that the reefed clew is not drawn tight to the cheek block and there is a big bubble in the sail around the sprit mast area and a tight topping lift. In your defense, you are sailing a mark 3.1 which does suffer from lee helm in those conditions. On the 3.2 versions the centerboard was moved forward. You can see the video Carlita across FB being driven hard in those conditions with 2 reefs in the main and 1 reef in the mizzen. It would have been more comfortable with a second reef in the mizzen but I would not have been able to point as high. I think that my track was posted on the forum but it was close to 90 degrees between tacks. It was the testing on Carlita that made us move the board forward. We offer technical assistance to anyone with a 3.1 if they want to update. I do not think that the mast float helped and I am not sure whether it would actually prevent the boat from inverting. The masthead would have to be a fair way under water before the float is fully immersed and contributing its total lift. That is very close to or maybe past the point of vanishing stability. As comfortable as the dodger is, it adds a lot of windage. The boat looked good and you looked and you were doing well.
  16. Sorry for he confusion, I was trying to be concise. When I said inside I meant the trunk inside the boat and outside means the trunk from outside the boat.
  17. When building Spindrift hull #1 I wasn't happy with my job of taping the outside of the trunk and pulled it out and decided to see how long it would last and I have not taped the outside of a small daggerboard trunk since. I have been fighting my desire for perfection and productivity all of my life. So far I have never had or heard of a failure. I long ago sold hull #1 but I do have a S12 which is about 20 years old and I have Amanda hull #1 which must be about 10 years old. Also on our racing Spindrifts we shaped the bottom slot to fit the foil to reduce turbulence which would made it very difficult to glass around the overhanging lip fore and aft. Chick and Don are absolutely right that taping the outside of the trunk is superior. To help the joint I use a larger fillet and double glass the inside, this is still not as strong as taping both sides. It just shows how amazing epoxy joints are. If your perfectionist side wins out and you want to glass the outside of the trunk make sure that there is at least a 1/4" round over that is smooth and go down a couple of weights in glass to 6 oz. which lays around corners better and will not reduce the width of the slot very much. I do glass the slot on larger boats where there is more room.
  18. Hi Captain Tim, I am enjoying your build but two alarm bells rang in me. The first one was when you said "the position of the temporary frame is vague". The position is precise, I looked on the S11 standard plan sheets, lo and behold you were right, they are missing. The gremlins took them. I reinserted them so here is the measurement on the side from the third station forward of the transom along the sheer which you should have on one of your sides, is 2 3/16" or 56 3/16" forward of the transom with the tape pulled around the sheer line. This measurement is to the aft side of your temp frame. I won't give you the other measurements because they will be hard to measure with precision now that the boat is folded. When the temp frame is in position on the sheer marks, use a level and make it plumb. The boat will be level when it is sitting on the level cradle and the boat is in it's correct fore and aft location. I apologize for the missing dimensions. The other alarm bell was when you said that you will trim the forward bulkhead. You may remove 1/8" bevel on the forward side of the bulkhead but it is not necessary. You need to force the sheer out until the bulkhead will fit in place. If you trim the bulkhead to the newly folded hull you will reshape the forward part of the boat, the first obvious thing will be a weak looking bow and a hogged sheer line forward. The lines of the boat and dimensions are very accurate and if the parts are cut precisely every part will fit. None of us are that good and there is a lot of marking and cutting which means there will need to be some trimming but how do I know when to trim? First, if you are diligent you should not be off by more than 1/8" or so. If your part is under sized the epoxy will fill it but say there is a gap at the keel line under the temp frame. This is where hull massaging comes in. If the temp is in its correct position then you need to try forcing the keel up to meet the temp. Try a prop from the floor up to the keel line, this should fix the problem. Lets say the bottom and sides fit the temp pretty well but you notice that the temp forces the sides away from the bottom on each side. this means that the temp needs trimming. The same rule will apply to the transom. What we are looking for is a nice fair sweet hull. Make sure that the keel and chine seems are together and look fair and spend a fair amount of time just admiring the boat as you look over every part to see if there are any tweaks that you can do to make her even sweeter. You will just have to live with anything you missed forever. Keep up the good work.
  19. It is definitely Dawn Patrol. I have heard that they were doing fine when suddenly they were hit by a rogue wave. They have rescued the boat and are in good spirits
  20. New B&B design stats: Design name: Henry Wilder Stewart LOA : 21" 53.34cm Disp: 7lbs 5oz 3.32kg
  21. Taylor and Alan just launched the heir to the Stewart clan. You all may have noticed that there were no Stewarts in this years EC, and that is why. I thought that he was going to be really cool and launch himself to coincide with the EC but no, he decided to emerge in his own time. Design name, LOA and displacement will be posted later.
  22. Jay I guess I need to tackle this post. To the best of my knowledge, I am not aware of anyone deliberately altering the sheer except for Emvrin in Malta who changed it from a CC to a cuddy, although I am sure that some may have gotten it wrong. Shay did indeed build a 20 but I recall that after it was built he confided that stretched the boat. I am not aware that he otherwise altered the sheer. He might chime in. The trouble with pictures is that they play tricks depending on camera angle, boat trim, focal length, magnification and lighting. Not to mention the finishing touches of the builder, like tapering of trim pieces paint lines, striping, rounding of corners and blending of faces can turn a rather agricultural look into a fine vessel or vice versa. I checked the numbers and the break of the sheer is 85 1/2" forward of the outboard edge of the transom which is only slightly more than your 1/3 rule. It has never been altered. When designing a boat we still have to follow the FFF rule, form follows function. Don't get me wrong, aesthetics play an important part. When designing the sheer break, we start by putting it where we think it should be, then the fighting begins. Is there enough length between the aft deck and the sheer break to land a large fish with the fisherman and crew with a gaff? In this case there is 62". Will the tumblehome interfere with landing that fish? Getting the cockpit height right so that it does not back flood when backing down, but no more so that the cockpit has enough height to be safe but no higher than necessary for landing that fish. Where is the CB/CG in light and loaded trim, the console and helmsman seat, framing and having enough structure to take reasonable abuse without being overbuilt, positioning the tanks to meet the CG? Can it be built by first time builders with good guidance etc. etc.. Having said all that, it still gives me great pleasure to see non boat builders like Len turn out such nice boats.
  23. I am glad that the confusion has been cleared up, maybe I can muddy the waters a bit more by discussing how to use those controls. I have recently wondered if we are doing anyone any favors by having the adjustable outhaul when most of the time most people either do not know how to use it or are using it wrong. The most egregious act is to leave off the red line which acts as a cheap version of an outhaul car by keeping the the clew close to the boom and leaving the outhaul to just haul the clew out or in. When the red line is not used, the outhaul can only raise or lower the boom. There is never any need to lower the aft end of the boom as it just brings the boom closer to your head and makes it harder to duck the boom during a tack. It also tightens the leech and drafts the foot too much making the sail set inefficiently. We only have 4 sail controls. Mainsheet, boom vang, outhaul and downhaul/ halyard. The downhaul is on non reefing sails and the halyard is for reefing sails. To save duplication I will just use downhaul for both rigs. The mainsheet obviously brings the sail in or out but it also controls leech tension and mast bend which effects upper sail draft when close hauled. The outhaul effects the draft of lower region of the sail. the downhaul effects the draft in the forward part of the sail or luff. The boom vang controls sail twist when the mainsheet is eased. When sailing to windward in light air I have no downhaul on and I want the outhaul to give me a modest camber in the foot area of the sail and a slightly eased mainsheet and eased vang. As the wind increases the sail draft starts to move aft so downhaul will be tightened and the mainsheet will be brought in and the outhaul maybe tightened. When I bear away and I don't need to point, I start to power up, as I ease the mainsheet I let out a lot of outhaul, the downhaul will be eased unless the wind is strong. I start to bring on the vang if the is much wind, being careful not to over tighten the leech. When I get to a broad reach, the sail stalled and is no longer an airfoil, I switch to the maximum projected area by tightening the outhaul and downhaul as much as I can. When racing I will pull on the control lines many times and it really helps improve your performance when you get it right but if you are out sailing alone all of this could be as meaningful as shouting while alone in the forest.
  24. Hi Jan, A Harken eyestrap goes on the port side of the boom for the outhaul. There is a drawing from the top view showing how the cheek block and eyestrap share the same fasteners.
  25. Tim, A S11 should look good on a Beale 38. Those dimensions for the nesting version should work pretty well on the standard S11. It also depends on the davit spacing. I just based the length on the for end of the aft tank with room for fasteners at the forward end of the keel from midships. You could add another pair of H1558's on the forward end of the side tanks so that you could have any davit spacing that would work for your Beale. Aphers, The same goes for you in terms of davit spacing. You could do as you suggested and add some reinforcing at the chine forward on the inside and bolt on a pair of H1558's I don't know if either of you are going to sail your Spindrifts. I consider an Anderson bailer to be indispensable on them which works out perfectly for draining as you can trim the boat out level on the davits and the bailer will be at the low point except for the nestor, it will need 2. I like davits when they will work. While crossing the Mediterranean we enjoyed the company of crew on a 45' steel boat off and on. I once said " do you ever worry about the dinghy in the davits on an ocean crossing?" He said " everyone asks me that, ever since we left Australia, but her we are." We left Gibraltar on the same Levanter (east wind). We fetched up with them later in the Canaries. The dinghy was gone and the davits looked like pretzels. They got caught in the same Winter north Atlantic storm as we did.
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