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Nick C

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Nick C last won the day on June 29

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About Nick C

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  • Location
    Washington, NC
  • Supporting Member Since
    08/09/2018
  1. I tried using fillable caulking tubes to apply thickened epoxy and I wondered if others on the forum had experience with them. I decided to compare them to the plastic bag approach when gluing the deck on my boat since there were many linear feet of glue bead to lay down. I have used cartridge system epoxies like West System Six10 or Pettit FlexPoxy for repairs, small jobs, and once in part of a building project (a glued lapstrake boat). The mixing nozzle is cool technology and the result is a perfect non-sagging mix. But there isn’t very much in the tube and it is an expensive alternative. Thickened epoxy in a plastic bag works very well. I had the idea that a caulking gun might work better for me on vertical surfaces so I ordered some from Amazon.com. My experience so far: - I was working in hot weather so I had to have everything ready to go and then worked very quickly. Not quite frantic, but I had a vision of having a solid warm cylinder when the epoxy kicked. - I cut the nozzle to 1/4-inch so I could use a dowel to push the plug back out - It worked well. I think it is no better than the plastic bag method for horizontal surfaces but I did a better job on vertical. I was pleased with how well and quickly I could lay down a bead on a carlin then spread it with a small spreader of brush. - So far I have gotten 4 uses out of one tube and it is still usable. Some epoxy remains at the nozzle end that I couldn’t get out but it still works; if it plugs up the nozzle I could drill the hardened epoxy with a long bit. The hassle was the plug – I was able to push it back out with a dowel but it is getting harder. Some say you can blow it out with compressed air but I didn’t try that (seems like an opportunity to make a mess) - I think it would work well for delivering thickened epoxy into a corner to make a fillet but I have not tried it yet. I could not find much about use in a web search, YouTube, etc and none on boatbuilding. How about this group?
  2. And that is all the pieces from the kit! Everything that came from the CNC machine (except centerboard and rudder parts) is now assembled. It felt like another milestone passed. Almost done, right? ... I hear snickering ... Checking inventory of mask filters because I know I will be spending much time with sanders and epoxy coating.
  3. Deck and coaming installation
  4. There are a few others of us on this forum in the 2m range (I was but I am shrinking). I think we are the standard others aspire to be. And I appreciate Graham's and other designers willingness to adjust boats to fit!
  5. Outstanding results! Thanks for posting the videos. Most launches aren't as interesting (just back the trailer down the ramp and shove it in...). I was looking for the elves in the video - did you make them stay in the cabin?
  6. Good catch on the angle, Reacher. The bracket is designed to hold the ladder at an angle when mounted on top of a swim platform, which obviously won't work on a transom. I added an oak piece under the ladder for it to bear on. I just glued it on so I can plane it off an replace it if/when it gets beaten up. The photo set is pretty much up to date. Given my track record it may be a while before another update...
  7. Another revision: I decided I didn’t really need the space forward of the centerboard so I closed it off with a bulkhead. Photo shows it just before taping. I wish I had thought of that before I finished the deck there. I hope that will help with exclusion of dirt, water, mildew, bugs, etc. There should be no habitat loss for insects and spiders since I mitigated by opening up under the foredeck.
  8. I picked Alan’s brain about motor mounts and decided on a built-in well in the aft deck. I added a transom ladder. After going to Capsize Camp and reading some posts, it seemed like longer would be better so I got a 3-step ladder. It is designed for a swim platform so I had to grind off part of the base to get it to lay flat against the transom. I could see flexing in the transom in my first test, so I added more braces. You can see the revision in the photo. I tested it by climbing in the boat and now there is no flex. I did not test the inverted position and hope I don’t need to use it that way.
  9. When I dry fitted the seats it seemed like a milestone. Also seen is my idea that I did not want the foredeck hatch so I cut off the bulkhead and extended the seat. I told visitors the hole was for the head.
  10. The hull was leveled and set to correct measurements, inwales glued in, then chines were tack welded. I did not use a keel batten opting for overlapping biaxial fiberglass tape.
  11. I got around to downloading the photos from my shop camera so it is time to report that I have made some progress on Core Sound 20 Mk1 #174. The boat was unfolded last October (I posted a few pics) and I had the naïve idea that I would be launching in the spring. But as someone on this forum said recently, Life Stuff keeps happening. If I was to name my boat after the process of building her, she would be “Timeout”, or “Hiatus”, or similar. There hasn’t been much on the forum recently about Mk1 boats, but I wanted an open boat for day sailing. We had a Flying Scot for 30 years and sold it to reduce the fleet – we thought we would just sail our larger boat. But we miss it so I decided I would build a replacement. I was on track to build a Spindrift when I fell into a deal on a Nutshell Pram, so I decided to build a Core Sound 17. That idea got upgraded to a Core Sound 20 and Graham and Alan said they could produce a kit. They tweaked the plans and cut out the parts, and early last year I picked up the pieces and got started. I have recorded most stages since I started and will post a condensed set of more interesting pics. I started out gluing up my centerboard blank while I was waiting for the kit to be cut out. I used some white oak I had – it qualifies as an antique since the tree was >100 years old when it was sawn into boards for a barn that was built >100 years ago. Anyway, it looked like a massive cutting board when it was planed flat by the CNC machine. Then watching the shaping was great. The curves were pretty furry but no match for a belt sander. I prepped the board for painting even though it looks like a craft project…
  12. Yep, I have several fillet tools and a gloved finger, but still need to sand or scrape before placing tape unless working green. Then after the tape is on and fill coat applied I can still feel bumps and edges that I know will appear through the painted surface. So I like the round scraper better than the sandpaper and dowel approach. The straightedged scrapers work very well for taking the selvage edge off FG tape, but there are still detectable edges so I have been fairing them. The little round scraper is working well for me in final finishing the inside curve. At my skill level, I like tape better than cutting strips, pulling threads, using peel ply, etc. Along with Alan’s videos and others on YouTube, check out Russell Brown’s videos on OffCenterHarbor.com to see a master at work. I am not there yet and probably never will be. The 10-foot Rule applies to my boats…
  13. I have benefitted from lots of good information on technique on this forum so I thought I would share something I have been tinkering with lately. Since sanding is not my favorite task, and getting into the curve of an epoxy fillet can be/is challenging, I have been tinkering with a scraper setup. I have used cabinet scrapers for years in furniture building and have learned that an easier and more ergonomic way to deal with small parts is to use paint and glue scrapers kept sharp. So I was using them on my boat project but working with epoxy means frequent sharpening, so I got a paint scraper with a carbide blade. Works great on flat surfaces and I haven’t had to sharpen it yet. But that doesn’t work on curves so I have tried to grind down scrapers but have come up with nothing satisfactory. I found some carbide scraper blades on Amazon.com and thought I could just put them on my glue scraper. Nope – the hole is too small (can’t make it larger – it’s carbide…). The hole diameter is 5.5mm (0.21in). So I made a test handle by using thickened epoxy to hold a 10-24 screw in an old tool handle. You can see the prototype isn’t too pretty. It works great. I have smoothed the radius of fillets and worked it hard enough it warmed up but haven’t dulled it yet. It is sharp enough and small enough that care is needed on bare wood to avoid gouging. I may turn a smaller diameter handle or try a bent screw to get into corners. I wouldn’t need this if I could make perfect fillets … Photos are of the steel scrapers I use, the carbide paint scraper, and the little carbide set.
  14. Nick C

    Capsize

    Thank you, Paul. Very instructive and I will pay attention to several things you pointed out in my build. One question: are your sprits the length specified or slightly long? Your self rescue also impressed me, as did your candor about potentially facing it without crew (younger, agile, and competent crew). I have crashed smaller boats (Sunfish & Lasers) and recovered without much difficulty but anything larger could be a problem. I can see capsize drills are in my future.
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