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Nick C

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Nick C last won the day on May 9

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About Nick C

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  • Location
    Washington, NC
  • Supporting Member Since
    08/09/2018

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  1. I got the little heater as an alternative to a light bulb setup with some means to circulate air since my designs were becoming weirdly complicated. I added on the little box on the side as a "plenum" with baffles and fiddled with it to make air flow around the jugs. This is the heater I got: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XDTWN2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I had the idea that the heater thermostat might be adequate but it wasn't so once again I went to the source of all things and got this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011296704/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Overkill for this task but I can think of multiple subsequent uses (like if I take up home brewing, or get a lizard). It controlled the heating pad and would work for a larger heater also up to 1500W.
  2. I am dealing with a well-crystallized jug and non-pumping pumps now. I am the guy that kept mine on a heating pad at >60 this winter but it still solidified. Not allowed (why even ask?) to use the microwave so I will do the water bath approach - it has worked for me before. Here are some pics of my heat box setup. Made of ply scraps and during the build winter before last I used a very small forced air heater and a controller. The sensor was taped about midway on the jug contents and it worked well circulating warm air around the jugs; I set it at 80 in the morning and it got the epoxy to >75 to work with, and I kept it at 65-70 the rest of the time. Last winter I took out the little heater and put the jugs on a heating pad in a plastic bag and set the controller to 62. There must be brand differences in chemistry that affect crystallizing, based on empirical observations. In general my experience is like Paul's but I have some old 2:1 resin (not B&B) that wasn't in the heat box this winter and it flows fine.
  3. Nice installation. I went a different route, but in hindsight may have selected this one. A question: I assume you can just pull it out when in the water to deploy it, but how do you retrieve it when back in the boat?
  4. I can vouch for the gunwale guard; great stuff, but was a mildew battle for me. Fenders like the ones in Paul's link are also great. My pram has a simple 1" rope along the gunwale. Glued into a moulding along the sides and bow (partly visible in one of the pics. I think it looks pretty good, it is tough, and cheap.
  5. Fellow builders or builders-to-be: The building base I used to build my Core Sound 20 is disassembled and stacked in my storage unit, and before I re-purpose or scrap the parts I thought I would see if someone nearby could make use of it. I am in Washington, NC, so if you are within a reasonable distance, or if you will be traveling to B&B to pick up a kit, I would be pleased to give it to you to support a fellow builder. My boat is a CS20 Mk1 so the base could be cut down and/or modified for other boats that length or shorter. It is 2x8 and 2x6 SPF lumber. The photos show it in use in the early stages, but like most folks I don't have any views of the base itself. I am keeping the casters for another project. Nick C. Core Sound 20 Mk1 Blue Duck Washington, NC
  6. Outstanding! I have been following your build and your result is very impressive.
  7. By the way #174 has a name: Blue Duck. My boats have been named after birds, and this one is blue, so ... Applying graphics is on the to-do list. More photos to follow. In case you were wondering, and even if you were not, there really is a blue duck. If you search the web for images you can see a blue drake of the species native to New Zealand. The Maori name is whio and its picture is on the NZ $10 bill. There was also an outlaw of the Old West known as Blue Duck who hung out with Belle Starr, but the boat isn’t named after him.
  8. Finally launched the boat! I was hoping to get it the water in October, so I could say it was one year since unfolding, but I didn't make that. At least I can say it was in 2019. Rigging was unfinished when I took it to the Messabout so I didn't sail there, but I did get to do a launch test. Alan took photos and a video of the event - the roller bunks worked great. I have since added a couple of centerline rollers. Back to the garage for rigging and some final details, and today it was calm and warm so we launched this afternoon. Things turned out as I had hoped with only a few glitches, which is why we do beta tests. I have a to-do list: finish rigging, fix sail slides to hoist and drop easily, put on the rubrails, etc., etc., etc. Still learning about the Torqueedo but it made an excellent first impression.
  9. Red is downhaul, rigged 2:1 under the deck. Easy to change to 3:1 if I want. Black is halyard. Green is snotter.
  10. I decided to route lines to the mainmast under the deck. Before I glued down the deck, I mounted turning blocks under the bow pieces and used them to align pilot holes in the deck and locate holes in the bulkhead. I used a piece of cord to where they were headed and lined up a piece of PEX pipe to go through the bulkhead and put fairleads on the deck beams. I put screws through the pilot holes to keep drips out of the blocks below, then when epoxy and painting work was complete broke them out and drilled holes for Racelite through-deck fairleads. Clamcleat makes a cleat with a roller fairlead on the bottom for the line to enter from below. It is a CL230 – looks just like the CL211. I made a little Starboard molding for the line to go over (under?) just before going through the deck. The two cleats shown are for the downhaul and halyard. I put the cleat for the snotter closer to the helm. I think this is about equal in turns and friction to running lines above the deck. A little more trouble to run the lines. I had considered running the lines through lengths of 1/2-inch PEX but it might become mud dauber habitat.
  11. I decided to add a centerboard gasket. I have had them on boats before and they probably make better sailors go faster but it also keeps crud out of the centerboard trunk. Sailing around here when (not if) I stick the board in the mud maybe it will act like a mud squeegee. When the boat was on its side I installed the bailer and a gasket. I got some material from APS but unfortunately they don’t sell it any more. It is coated fabric but the ones I have had in the past are just sailcloth. I used 1/8 x 1/2-in. aluminum strips to secure it and lots of 4200. It probably is a vulnerable spot for water intrusion so I will keep an eye on it.
  12. Update: I haven’t reported on progress in a while but I have made some. I managed to get the boat almost completed to go to the Messabout, but I couldn’t get the mast rigging done before Friday. So, no sailing but we did do a launch test – more about that later. I don’t have many new photos to share since most of the work since my last batch was sanding, priming and painting. I have made a few custom additions so I will get pics together about those. First, or maybe last, I diverted effort to refurbishing the trailer I bought from a CraigsList ad. I replaced bearings and seals, tires, lights, winch parts, roller bunks, etc. You know the story. I was considering the great keel roller design by Graham and Pete McCrary but I also had decided against a keel. At least initially – I may change my mind and add it later. So rather than adding a few rollers and recovering the bunks I bought keel roller bunks. The bunks on my trailer are directly under and align with the longitudinal bulkheads so I wasn’t too worried about hull deflection. I selected galvanized sets made in the USA by Dutton-Lainson and got mine on sale from etrailer.com. Since my bunk boards are 8 feet long I got 2 sets of 4-foot roller bunks. We did a launch test at the Messabout and Alan crouched under the boat and took a video – it is in his Messabout photo album (https://photos.app.goo.gl/orS7YxLEPGa3Wkd2A) This long-winded explanation goes with that video, but the bottom line is that the boat rolled off without a push (so I need to be careful about unhooking at a ramp). There are 60 rollers! I will add a couple of centerline rollers and tweak the bunks but I am pleased with the results.
  13. For what it's worth: I made long tapered ramps out of Starboard, bedded all with 3M 4200, and I also used Rustoleum products. What I wish I had done differently is to make an attractive taper all the way around the mast to conceal the steps between sections. I have admired masts where folks did that. Maybe that is a revision to try when repainting is needed.
  14. I have been thinking about this too and have found a couple of additional links. Some of the bulbous devices are really ugly. Flying Scot has a float that fits over the head of the mainsail (https://flyingscot.com/product/mainsail-flotation-mast-flotation-top-of-mast-flotation/); I never saw one in use, thought it was ugly, and wondered about its effect on sail shape. Maybe there are some other ones like it. Seems like you might be able to make something similar with some closed-cell foam and sailcloth. There are a couple of inflatable masthead floats made by Crewsaver: https://crewsaver.com/au/search-results/?searchTerm=mast+head. I am not clear on how these attach. Another self-inflating device that may be an option: https://www.throwraft.com/ I had the idea that this could be rigged to hoist on a spare halyard (think pigstick) and might work. At least it would be significant buoyancy. The fallback would be that it meets USCG requirements for a throwable flotation device and would be usable for that. But once one of these is used, then what? Lower it and replace the CO2 cylinder? Seems like if you can capsize once you can do it again (my personal best is 14 consecutive capsizes in a Laser). A more 'durable' or permanent device would address that but windage and aesthetics enter my thinking. The B&B option as it evolves is appealing. Maybe Graham and Alan can figure out how to make it add power, like a topgallant ...
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