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Nick C

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Nick C last won the day on October 15

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About Nick C

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    Washington, NC
  • Supporting Member Since
    08/09/2018

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  1. For what it's worth: I made long tapered ramps out of Starboard, bedded all with 3M 4200, and I also used Rustoleum products. What I wish I had done differently is to make an attractive taper all the way around the mast to conceal the steps between sections. I have admired masts where folks did that. Maybe that is a revision to try when repainting is needed.
  2. I have been thinking about this too and have found a couple of additional links. Some of the bulbous devices are really ugly. Flying Scot has a float that fits over the head of the mainsail (https://flyingscot.com/product/mainsail-flotation-mast-flotation-top-of-mast-flotation/); I never saw one in use, thought it was ugly, and wondered about its effect on sail shape. Maybe there are some other ones like it. Seems like you might be able to make something similar with some closed-cell foam and sailcloth. There are a couple of inflatable masthead floats made by Crewsaver: https://crewsaver.com/au/search-results/?searchTerm=mast+head. I am not clear on how these attach. Another self-inflating device that may be an option: https://www.throwraft.com/ I had the idea that this could be rigged to hoist on a spare halyard (think pigstick) and might work. At least it would be significant buoyancy. The fallback would be that it meets USCG requirements for a throwable flotation device and would be usable for that. But once one of these is used, then what? Lower it and replace the CO2 cylinder? Seems like if you can capsize once you can do it again (my personal best is 14 consecutive capsizes in a Laser). A more 'durable' or permanent device would address that but windage and aesthetics enter my thinking. The B&B option as it evolves is appealing. Maybe Graham and Alan can figure out how to make it add power, like a topgallant ...
  3. Last year: just starting build. Flat panels on base, surge came in garage. This year I got ready again. Making progress, but it is hard to sand the boat like that. The good news is that the wind has shifted and the threat of surge has passed with no water in the garage this year. No regrets for prep though. Wisdom from a seaman: The time for taking all measures for a ship’s safety is while still able to do so. Nothing is more dangerous than for a seaman to be grudging in taking precautions lest they turn out to have been unnecessary. Safety at sea for a thousand years has depended on exactly the opposite philosophy. --- Admiral Chester W. Nimitz Alan and Graham -- I hope you have had the same result!
  4. Seems like we just did this. Last year it was a timeout that lasted weeks by the time it was over: prep, the storm, cleanup, reset shop, back to work,... Plus time mixed in for dealing with other storm effects, checking on family and friends, occasional rest periods, and other stuff. So finishing my boat by this year's Messabout may not happen. Dang. I am about 99% as ready as I will be. Now we wait. I think I will have an adult beverage ...
  5. It is a great photo. Looking forward to the day mine is doing that! Three full battens? They came with the boat or your choice, and any review comments? Post more photos. Very inspirational for the sanding hours...
  6. Great stuff, Pete. I am in the process of refurbishing a trailer for my CS20 Mk1 and your design ideas and photos are very timely. I was thinking about some kind of keel "trough" and yours looks like I could make it work well on my trailer. I also have the advantage (?) of being in build mode at the stage of glassing the hull and installing the keel, so I think I will build my trough while the boat is upside down and I can adjust the roller positions and test the fit pretty easily. What will be at the entry of the trough? A 5" roller at the end or will you have a wider or different type of roller? About FG and epoxy, my thinking is 5/4 PT pine screwed and glued together will be fine as is. But I will be very interested in other suggestions posted. Thanks for posting, and for the photos.
  7. I tried using fillable caulking tubes to apply thickened epoxy and I wondered if others on the forum had experience with them. I decided to compare them to the plastic bag approach when gluing the deck on my boat since there were many linear feet of glue bead to lay down. I have used cartridge system epoxies like West System Six10 or Pettit FlexPoxy for repairs, small jobs, and once in part of a building project (a glued lapstrake boat). The mixing nozzle is cool technology and the result is a perfect non-sagging mix. But there isn’t very much in the tube and it is an expensive alternative. Thickened epoxy in a plastic bag works very well. I had the idea that a caulking gun might work better for me on vertical surfaces so I ordered some from Amazon.com. My experience so far: - I was working in hot weather so I had to have everything ready to go and then worked very quickly. Not quite frantic, but I had a vision of having a solid warm cylinder when the epoxy kicked. - I cut the nozzle to 1/4-inch so I could use a dowel to push the plug back out - It worked well. I think it is no better than the plastic bag method for horizontal surfaces but I did a better job on vertical. I was pleased with how well and quickly I could lay down a bead on a carlin then spread it with a small spreader of brush. - So far I have gotten 4 uses out of one tube and it is still usable. Some epoxy remains at the nozzle end that I couldn’t get out but it still works; if it plugs up the nozzle I could drill the hardened epoxy with a long bit. The hassle was the plug – I was able to push it back out with a dowel but it is getting harder. Some say you can blow it out with compressed air but I didn’t try that (seems like an opportunity to make a mess) - I think it would work well for delivering thickened epoxy into a corner to make a fillet but I have not tried it yet. I could not find much about use in a web search, YouTube, etc and none on boatbuilding. How about this group?
  8. And that is all the pieces from the kit! Everything that came from the CNC machine (except centerboard and rudder parts) is now assembled. It felt like another milestone passed. Almost done, right? ... I hear snickering ... Checking inventory of mask filters because I know I will be spending much time with sanders and epoxy coating.
  9. Deck and coaming installation
  10. There are a few others of us on this forum in the 2m range (I was but I am shrinking). I think we are the standard others aspire to be. And I appreciate Graham's and other designers willingness to adjust boats to fit!
  11. Outstanding results! Thanks for posting the videos. Most launches aren't as interesting (just back the trailer down the ramp and shove it in...). I was looking for the elves in the video - did you make them stay in the cabin?
  12. Good catch on the angle, Reacher. The bracket is designed to hold the ladder at an angle when mounted on top of a swim platform, which obviously won't work on a transom. I added an oak piece under the ladder for it to bear on. I just glued it on so I can plane it off an replace it if/when it gets beaten up. The photo set is pretty much up to date. Given my track record it may be a while before another update...
  13. Another revision: I decided I didn’t really need the space forward of the centerboard so I closed it off with a bulkhead. Photo shows it just before taping. I wish I had thought of that before I finished the deck there. I hope that will help with exclusion of dirt, water, mildew, bugs, etc. There should be no habitat loss for insects and spiders since I mitigated by opening up under the foredeck.
  14. I picked Alan’s brain about motor mounts and decided on a built-in well in the aft deck. I added a transom ladder. After going to Capsize Camp and reading some posts, it seemed like longer would be better so I got a 3-step ladder. It is designed for a swim platform so I had to grind off part of the base to get it to lay flat against the transom. I could see flexing in the transom in my first test, so I added more braces. You can see the revision in the photo. I tested it by climbing in the boat and now there is no flex. I did not test the inverted position and hope I don’t need to use it that way.
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