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Summer Breeze - Core Sound 17, Mk-3


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Chick -- Have a look on my build a couple of weeks ago where I had some pixs of my battery box and step. If the 17' dimensions are close to the 20' dimensions near Blk 3, you should be able to have a two-way step. On "Chessie" the short step was just even with the top of the water ballast tank. Put the other way, it is high enough to be a "retainer" for the potti. I've found that either the 9.5" or 12" rise is comfortable for stepping up to the bridge deck or down into the cabin. The high step allows more "foot room" in the cabin.

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Here is Sumer Breeze with her new ownwers, Dale and Kristi in Florida.

Oh, man, I just can't do that again. I've done a few small sailboats with all the filleting and taping and mixing and sanding. I also did a round few strip/glass canoes with all the mixing and sanding

After considerable research and development, I've found surgical tubing makes the finest slingshot engine.

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That 9 or 12" dimension is what I'm finding on our 20s as well. I think Pete has floorboards which elevate the sole a bit. I'm not planning on an additional sole, but I reserve the right to change my mind. As for a ladder I mentioned before I had a ladder on my Catalina 18 that flipped up. It was a Garelick footrest like this:

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I see they sell just the brackets on Amazon for 39 bucks and you could add your own step. They were quite sturdy and a great place to stand when others were at the helm. You could make the brackets but I'm inclined to buy. I already added a vertical support to mount mine to. (BTW I have a transom now and I'll be posting pictures soon)

 

Of course if you are going to locate the battery there like Pete then you would be well served to do what he's doing. I'm not planning on having a full lead cell battery and will put a much smaller Lithium Ion battery or NiMH in the front lazerette and I'm a bucket wag-bagger so my space there won't be occupied. My electrical needs are small and will be supplemented by solar. 

 

I saw on Alan's blog that he's going to be building a CS20.3 which is pretty exciting. I will post on your thread that we should be learning from his experience instead of the other way around!  (wink)

 

I can't wait until this fall seeing these boats live.

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We all have different ideas about most everything. On the inland lakes, I gotta use Mr. potti, but offshore I've got my trusty bucket with a seat on top. It will live in the same place as the porta-pooper.

 

My battery will be where Pete's is, but I'll do it "My---Way" (Insert Sinatra's version of I Did It My Way here in the background.)

 

I hadn't heard that the "young master" was building a Mk-3. That IS exciting news.

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Steve,...

Yes, I have floorboards that (at Blk 3) are about 4" above the keel. However, that doesn't raise the battery base at all. I've made a cut-out so that the floorboards surround the battery -- and the battery's hold-down base is screwed onto a 3/4" plywood base that is epoxied right over the keel's fillet. The 9.5" step just clears the battery's "hold-down" screws but extends into the cabin foot well 12". With the 12" step, there's 2.5" more space for the foot well. Inside the step, I've made a plywood (4 mm) cover for the battery -- protecting the wiring and exposed terminals.

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Pete, I like what you are doing. If I had the electrical needs you have, I'd be thinking about the same setup. But with a lot of cruising on my sea pearl I just can't think of what I'll need a big battery for. I have a GPS (2 AA batteries) a flashlight and a couple of cabin lights (2 AA batteries each) and LED running and anchor lights (more AAs). I have a solar charger that charges my cell phone and two NiMH temp storage batteries fast which powers a tablet and bluetooth speakers. I may go full Electric like Bob Dylan eventually, but right now my plan is to keep systems to a minimum. It sure doesn't mean my way is the right way.

 

Chick, I think all these ideas are what make things exciting. When I went to visit Doug and see #1, I got inside and sat against the bulkhead. One of my requirements was being able to sit and read at night or inclement weather. The reason I want a folding step is so when I retire at night I can fold it up, put my legs across the bunk or in the well and read. Note on Doug's boat he doesn't have the upper supports.

 

2014-11-14%2B13.52.44.jpg

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This looks to be about the headroom I have in my cabin. I don't have knees. Well, that's not really true, I do have knees. But Summer Breeze doesn't. Good point about the step/battery box being in the way in the foot well. I like to lie in my berth and read. It's a little cramped with my nueropathic legs jammed in the footwell anyway. But I do want room to sit and eat in a rainstorm. Lot's of compromises.

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Hey!!!!  It's me---I'm still out here. Little trip to the hospital (Not boat related.) Getting ready for VBS, little shorty camping weekend with lotsa problems to fix on the camper, running the grandson around, etc., etc.

 

Haven't really gotten much done on the Breeze. Here are a couple of pics, though. Special thanks to David at B&B for making this for me.

 

post-1823-0-43437000-1469132965_thumb.jpg Battery box/step.

 

post-1823-0-72699500-1469132968_thumb.jpg Switch panel. Don't be fooled, it's not all wired up yet.

 

post-1823-0-74789800-1469132971_thumb.jpg B&B emblem covering the mainmast hold down bolt. The "one wing" nut is in the anchor well.

 

Sorry about the "fuzziness". I musta been shaking.

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Quit doing stuff and go sail your boat! :)

Looks nice. You need some sort of trim or decoration around the logo to set if off. Maybe a broad oval of color surrounded by a small band?

Brass trim ring?

I don't know. It needs something to make the whole thing POP, as they say.

Then again, it IS me giving the advice. ;)

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I'm VERY FRUSTRATED!!!!!! Earlier this year I ordered a 3-way masthead light on Amazon. It is a Scialeds Nautica light made in Argintina. It had really good reviews. I tried to wire it up today and it wouldn't work I fussed around with my wiring, electric panel, battery trying to figure out what I had done wrong. Finally I got around to checking the light itself----dead as the proverbial door nail! (What IS a doornail, anyway...) Wasted most of the afternoon. Well, not actually. Part of the time was spent drilling holes, running wires, and stuff. It is model # model  TFL2-2 / 3

 

 

Have any of you used this light???

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Door nails are a literally "clench" nails that were used to make doors stronger in the old days. These were big, forged nails, driven through the boards that made up the door and clenched over on the back side to marry the parts together. Once it was clenched, it was "dead" for use as a nail again. You see, nails and other bits of iron were often reclaimed after something outlived its usefulness. Houses were burned down and the ash searched for the nails. A doornail was a bent over, useless thing, so "dead as a doornail . . ."

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Well, I've gone round-and-round with Scialeds Nautica about the lights. They CANNOT be wired with two wires, even though the instructions say they can. It does work as a three wire light. Guess I'm stuck with ti. Now I need to find a 3-pin waterproof plug and receptacle, and run another wire up the mast. Any suggestions on where to find the plug/recep.?

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It's PARTY time, y'all! The nav. light/anchor light is DONE. Well, almost.

 

I finally gave up arguing with Nautica about being able to wire this puppy as a two wire, reversing polarity light. Today was spent running a third wire up the mast, and hooking all the components up. I spent all day the other day trying to find our "yard" chipmonk to carry the wiring up the mast. I dunno WHERE he hides when I have work for him to do. Finally I gave up and just ran a string "messenger", "pully string", or whatcha call it. Since he wasn't around to carry that in, I had to go to plan-B.

 

Plan-B: Tie a little ball of foam on the end of the string. Stuff the foam ball into the  end of the mast. Blow foam ball through mast with my air hose. Attach wires and pull back the other way. Heck, I think I'll just fire mr. chipmonk, this works GREAT!  I also tied foam strips every couple of feet to keep the wire from "twanging" in the mast as the boat rocks at anchor. You can follow along in pictures.

 

I was even able to use the special "polarity reversing switch" to flip from one mode to the other. Now all that is left is to get a 3-prong plug so that I will be able to unplug the wires to remove the mast, but for now, it is all wired in solid. That doesn't prevent raising or lowering the mast though.

 

Now, on to the pictures:

 

post-1823-0-36747400-1470348762_thumb.jpg  Foam-on-a-string.

 

post-1823-0-87355500-1470348765_thumb.jpg  Stuffing it.

 

post-1823-0-41375900-1470348769_thumb.jpg  Wire going into mast. Notice foam "anti-twanger". 

 

post-1823-0-00211700-1470348773_thumb.jpg  Back side of fuse/switch panel box.

 

post-1823-0-91104700-1470348779_thumb.jpg  Temporarily attaching wires to bottom of mast and to tabernacle.

 

post-1823-0-61593600-1470348776_thumb.jpg  They WORK. This is the nav. light. Throw the switch the other way for the anchor light.

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Awesome! Next time, tie the messenger line to a nut, then use a magnet outside.

We use very small versions of that system to run wires through bike frames. Yes, Virginia, electrical wires, for the electronic derailleurs.

Yup. Computers in bikes now. I can reprogram your shifting profile and characteristics with a laptop.

Happy your light works, buddy. Now go use it! :)

Peace,

Robert

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