PadrePoint Posted March 27 Report Share Posted March 27 Jacking up an end could be a good approach. Never thought of that. My floor is level enough that I could have used it to make a straight line along the sides. The dimensions from bow to waterline and transom to waterline should be somewhere in the plans and a bit of math would reveal appropriate and relative heights of bow and stern from the floor. NICE to see your progress on your build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Tim Posted March 27 Report Share Posted March 27 Samantha, If you search "how to apply the perfect waterline" this should come up. It will help if you read all the post (9 I think). Designer Members Supporting Member 1.7k Website: http://www.bandbyachtdesigns.com Location: Vandemere, NC Posted March 21, 2020 (edited) Amos, We do, here is that link. Edited March 21, 2020 by Designer fix it 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Tim Posted March 27 Report Share Posted March 27 Samantha, This may be faster for you. Click on How best and it all should come up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hirilonde Posted March 27 Report Share Posted March 27 Yeah, like Don, no bottom paint, for the same reason 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Samantha Ritchie Posted March 28 Author Report Share Posted March 28 Thank you all for the replies! That was VERY helpful. We have the lines now for the bottom paint, and can add the lines for the boot stripe. We want to put bottom paint on for two reasons: first, where we live, at the base of Puget Sound, barnacles attach very quickly to the bottom of boats. Second, we hope to do some lengthy cruises in this boat. (We have been cruising in a Scamp, so the CS17 will be spacious.) I'm going to look into that Devoe's Devthane 379. Mark, your boat is beautiful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Tim Posted April 12 Report Share Posted April 12 I was in contact with Systems Three about their Pennant Topsides paint. I purchased their Pennant Primer. They got in touch with me and asked if I had any questions. I told them I had wanted to buy their Pennant Topside paint but was told it had been discontinued. I was then told if they had what I wanted I could buy it. They did have what I was looking for and they sold it to me for a reduced price. I was told they have a limited supply in stock but others could buy what they have. Bottom line, if you were thinking of using System Three you should get in touch with them. Jeff Anderson janderson@systemthree.com was my contact. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Rolfe Posted November 7 Report Share Posted November 7 Just wanted to hijack this thread as I'm also deciding what paint to buy for our Spindrift 10. Our case is a very different use-case where the tender will spend considerable time in the water and live on deck. It will also be living in tropical climates. I was leaning towards something durable like a 2-part LPU paint, but a comment above that 2-part polyurethane paints don't do well under constant immersion has me second-guessing. I think we'll try to be good about pulling our tender out of the water overnight while at anchor, but we won't have davits, so it will have to be done using our mast or boom against the hull -- which is a long way of saying we probably won't always do it. Second, there's almost always some sitting water in a tender whether it be from rain, splashing, wet gear, etc. Edit: I did some more homework and confirmed that indeed polyurethane paints will not perform well immersed. It seems like the recommendation below the waterline is to just use an anti-fouling paint, which is kind of a bummer as they don't look nice, and when the boat is strapped down nest on deck, we'll be leaning up against and handling the bottom of the dinghy frequently -- and many of these paints are not the nicest things on our skin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aphers Posted November 7 Report Share Posted November 7 I used two pack polyurethane, for a tender that is in daily use. I do have davits and try to be good about always lifting each night. I've not noticed any problems with the paint. Sometimes when I've been a bit lazy the bottom of the boat gets grubby with growth- it happens very quickly in 30⁰+ water! I'm a big fan of the two pack. So much more durable than single pack. And don't even think about varnish... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Tim Posted November 8 Report Share Posted November 8 The Systems Three primer is waterproof and can be used for underwater surfaces. You will have to cover it with something for uv protection though. If you are going to leave the dinghy in the water for long times you will want to have anti fouling paint on and that will be your uv protection. It is real easy to use. It is water based so it cleans up easy and you thin it with water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aphers Posted November 8 Report Share Posted November 8 Put of curiosity, what is supposed to happen to two pack polyurethane if immersed for too long? I've not noticed any signs of degradation. By the way, on the subject of paint, I recently added some non slip to the floor of the Spindrift. I masked up four areas (two in each half) and then painted using my normal two pack polyurethane with some non slip granules added. In the bow section I was more generous, because I found my feet slipped a lot on the sloping hull sides. In the stern I went for a more gentle finish. I tried to minimise the area that I painted, and I deliberately left a gap along the keel. The non slip works well but it holds dirt and tears up sponges, so you don't want it right in the bottom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Rolfe Posted November 8 Report Share Posted November 8 I'm not actually sure, but I think the polyurethanes can blister/bubble not unlike how a GRP hull can blister. I don't know the exact chemistry but it's probably a form of osmosis driving water molecules into the polymer network. I think you're probably right that, if reasonable care is taken not to leave the dinghy immersed in the water for days on end, then the 2-pack poly will probably last a long time still. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aphers Posted November 8 Report Share Posted November 8 18 minutes ago, Bryan Rolfe said: I'm not actually sure, but I think the polyurethanes can blister/bubble not unlike how a GRP hull can blister. I don't know the exact chemistry but it's probably a form of osmosis driving water molecules into the polymer network. I think you're probably right that, if reasonable care is taken not to leave the dinghy immersed in the water for days on end, then the 2-pack poly will probably last a long time still. I think that the real risk to a dinghy that isn't lifted most nights is that it will get too much growth on it, and you'll damage the paint as you scrape off the barnacles! I totally understand why you don't want to use AF. I've tried hard/scrubbable AF as a boot top on my yacht, and was quite unimpressed- you couldn't touch it without it coming away on your hands. I think it would be a nightmare on a dinghy, it would get everywhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hirilonde Posted November 11 Report Share Posted November 11 I applied an ablative bottom paint over scuffed up solvent based LPU and left my Spindrift in the water at a dighy dock for 2 seasons. Nothing but growth which came off with a sponge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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