Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Other groups

Supporting Member

Oyster last won the day on January 13

Oyster had the most liked content!

1 Follower

About Oyster

  • Birthday January 1

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Supporting Member Since

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Oyster's Achievements


Mentor (12/14)

  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Posting Machine Rare
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done

Recent Badges



  1. Okay, without pictures or videos, it did not happen. Must have been a classified gathering in some remote region of Area 51 with no leakers? You guys are slacking off.
  2. I have searched for the build photos that used to be on the local community college web page but I cannot find it anymore. That was a fairly decent tutorial for any beginner or for someone deciding if the boat would work for them. Maybe Alan has more information on the old files. I did speak to the fellow thats doing their boatbuilding program now. But he states the files are missing from the inner workings of the college.
  3. You continue to amaze me with your continued work, workmanship and the desire to continue to build after your "retirement age". Maybe we will get up that way sometime for the fall colors and get to see your creation in person.
  4. These are my go to roller heads. The candy stripe i s your typical Mohair head and the Epoxy Glue is a blend of what appears to be a synthetic blend hair, which is a bit shorter. I also cut them in half and use them on the smaller frames instead of buying the smaller ones. You get almost two for one for the price. I trim any fuzz off the edges before rolling with the cut ones. I have never had them come apart.
  5. I think Ken was being sarcastic at the time since his boat was yellow and did find himself on an occasion in an "Unorthodox " position. I wish he would check in and give us an update.
  6. Yellow makes it easier to see when you are on your side or probably upside down and rolling in the seas. So are you still around and reading? Check in sometime and give us an update on your goings on.
  7. Nice shed, she will have a first class home on land. Well a lot of glass work has been done on the bottom. I have the entire bottom glassed and working towards the first coat of fairing compound. We modified the large flat bow forefoot, which was generated by the bottom planking deadrise, since it did not look right to the eye. . Since I had the tapered skeg that finished off into the curve, I added two pieces of solid mahogany, overlaying the tapered layers over the glass shoe that runs the entire length of the bottom on the entire skeg and then sanded the continuing deadrise on the sides. The glass shoe is close to 3/16". So between the mahogany and the glass, hopefully there will be little damage to the bottom under normal run shallow water contacts. This gives me the nice 1 plus inch flat surface that will work better for the entire bow when the sides are planked, even though the edges got rounded over. This will work nicely for the bow eye to sit flat when installed .Then I tab glassed the add on to the sides. I will add to the face of the existing stem and work my side battens and planking into that area to the top of the stem. This still tapered into the flatter skeg area, just further up and still gives me the raise skeg for beaching and for taking the abuse of shallow water beaching or running in inshore.
  8. Well its been a slow go with several distractions. But I am slowly making my way to planking the hull. I have the bottom ready to glass, but I am doing some additional details to the bottom and some inside tabbing to the main bulkheads while its upside down. I have the bracket done and did change the horn timber setup bringing one of the layers along side of one of the keel members and the other one is butted and fastened in place to the main keel. I am also adding a small skeg and have brought the foward end down the forefoot and tapered it out half the way down. This will have a glass shoe on it and hopefully will be a buffer when beaching in shallow water cruising.
  9. My point as it relates to different fuel burns is not all trips are the same in time and the amount of fuel used, depending ona lot of factors. Sea conditions changes your running rpm and even your fishing speeds. But no big deal,, If I understand you correctly you are asking if stretching the Ocracoke will yield you a better fuel burn from the original. Well naturally you are adding more weight when you stretch any original design. Will it make a difference? ??? Don’t know, But you are trying to compare the design to a Panga that has no simular features in their design to the OK, which has an entirely different wetted bottom in the water for starters. I don’t think anyone can give you a concrete answer to what you are wanting. Of course this is really a question that the Designer can follow up.. Just trying to relate my own experiences and thoughts.. But for some reason no matter the design, its fairly common for people to want to change the plans , which can have some adverse affects after they are built and loaded. This is my personal observation. I will bow out now and just read.
  10. First off the Panga has a completely different bottom and draft than the boat you are considering. Its originally designed to be beached. The narrow beam works in the favor of riding in the big swells associated with the regions that they were native to. Leaving the beam aside for the design, I never have felt or heard that the lack of beam was targeted directly as being able to use a smaller engine. In most of the areas that you see them, the boaters are not concerned about going fast. I can't speak about what the original ones weighs in a simular length, built in wood, so I would not really think about how a new build weight compares to the original Pangas. Of course in general, the narrower the beam, the less you may burn in fuel, with a lot of iff ands and butts. So I would not try to compare the two designs solely on fuel burn. Profile lusting happens to a lot of folks in their original search that ends up favoring a Carolina design. But last do not attempt to under power any boat for the sake of an idea of burning less fuel. Of course the larger the engine, the more you initially spend for your power. There are a lot of instances of putting the proper engine on a boat and not having to run it on the top end, yielding you less burn less fuel than an under powered boat and having to shove the throttles to the pins to get the running angle right too. You end up dragging tail. Of course trim tabs are installed in a lot of under powered boats to get it to run decent and perform in a sea comfortably. And when your get it rigged, your boat always gains weight too. Sometimes this happens to modify your performance. Sportfish boats are not boats really designed around sipping fuel. Each person has their own idea about what they budget on fuel. SO its hard for most of us to know that target. No two trips will yield you the same gpm.
  11. First off I am not a professional designer and never play one on the internet. And I surely will not suggest any modifications on any current B&B designs. But with that said now, I will relate my experiment on this very topic, which hits me directly in the forehead when I built my current 19 skiff. My skiff is 9 years old now and has a lot of water under its keel in that time. Its a traditionally framed skiff planked in lapstrake. The skiff weighs with the engine on it rigged for fishing at around 1,100 lbs. The engine is hung on a traditional transom instead of a bracket, where your deadweight is hung further aft without any bottom in the water for support. When i was considering the build I did not want or consider a big engine, but a 60 hp, 229 lb four stroke. I only carry a six gallon fuel tank too. I started my narrowing of the waterline beam further aft than I normally would have when considering how the boat would handle down sea. This pointed the bottom in my shallow draft boat longer to the bow. It is a bit narrower than a normal boat in a simular size, but not as narrow as a Panga. I did have the Panga in mind, but never wanted anything than narrow or shape. The constant nasty shallow water chop in our area has always been uncomfortable over the years. So as my bride and I have aged, and we did not need a lot of room, we gave up some beam and modified the bottom in my point of view to deal with the slop. The boat is shallow draft, very dry and very comfortable at 20 to 22 mph and tops out at 29. Now overall we did notice that what I did does remove some of the hump when starting out and trolls at a nice 9 to 10 mph flatter. If the weather is nice , when I get on plane, I just trim the engine up a bit and gain about 2 mph in speed on my cruise with less bottom in the water. I also keep the nose up a bit when running downwind and under certain conditions I keep the trim up a bit more than I do when I normally set it at when running in smooth water. As a side note there are some of the larger sportfishermen that the designer is aware of, one being a Jim Smith and a spin off being Kirkline that has a different shape to the chines starting at the transom that changes and increases the deadrise from the transom, which makes them run flatter too. especially the Kirkline.
  12. I think Rosie, baggage and their escort can fit in the Guppy, which I don't its being used right now. ?
  13. Of course depending on the sized screws used , when removing them, just get a box of golf tees or three or six, which can be purchased online and coat the ends with epoxy and tap them in the holes. Let dry and then grind or sand off after cutting them fat. You are always dealing with some dishes in the wood if you use thickened epoxy and let it get really hard and sand the areas. The wood around the holes naturally sands easier, causing some cosmetic issues and additional work when finishing the boat. This is an alternative from using thickened epoxy and dealing with some of the downsides of just thickened epoxy down the road under topcoat paints. We also use a combination of cabosil and microlight for thickening agent. The rational reason is that when you use just thickened cabosil, this is a different makeup and density from the wood and you can get some print thru the topcoat paint down the road. The microlight blend can shrink a bit too but softer and less epoxy to create a harder surface than the wood along side the holes.. So leave the fill a bit high and let it cure for a couple of days before smoothing the fill out. The golf tees are simular to the wood no matter the type of wood they are made of and minimizes most of the print thru. Of course they are not always the same wood as your plywood. But when you use Okumne and do not glass, the wood is not really much different than how the Okumne face skins age under proper primer and topcoats for trailable boats. YMMV and may vary from the designers suggestions...So I say experiment and see what works for you.
  14. Pretty work sir, but if I may be so bold, working in primitive regions of the "world" there is only one tool that you need for cutting gains and truing up joints, which can be done with a simple 29.95 angle grinder purchased at any big box stores with a soft pad. Draw you a line and apply 12,000 rpm to a soft pad and 36 grit disc. for around 30 seconds, tapering the layers and glue up. If you wish, take floor surfacing paper and a small wooden block to smooth the tapers out. Mission accomplished. P.S., now the warning label,, don't attempt this with extra fingers and legs bracing up the ends of thin woods and while trying to drink almost all of the rye whiskey bottle up except for a few sips to bless the last plank.?
  15. Pretty cool boats,, Old Codgers need to find a working Sea Gull engine so that you can find your way back home following the oil slick.?
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.