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Everything posted by Oyster

  1. I purchased this in Aug, 2021 for a square stern canoe but will not be using it. Its never been in the water and only run for the start up. It has foward, neutral and reverse and has the shift lever on the front of the engine. It has a set up for remote fuel tank along with the built in fuel tank to choose from to use. I have the factory statement of origin for anyone that needs to get a title for it along with the original bill of sale. Sorry about the purple and white dots, thats just the flash issue. $1,100 located eastern North Carolina
  2. Sent you a mail,, have some track, sail brackets and nice small bronze cleats, just got to figure out how to get it to you
  3. All rvs have solar panels completely exposed to the elements. The little tear drop ones uses mostly portable suit case panels. The most economical direction is to go to Harbor Freight and get their 25 watt panel, which acts as a trickle charger and use a simple Rule bilge pump to a conventional and small 12 volt motorcycle battery. They come in AGM. This is the direction that is used on many wooden skiffs stored in the water, but with wet cell batteries. But the upgrade is nicer..
  4. I have set the rope in thickened epoxy with a few small wire brad or tack thru the rope on the edge to temporarily hold it in place. Dry fit the length of the rope before starting the job of course. While wet just cover the rope with more thickened epoxy and then work a layer of biaxal glass covered by a layer of finish cloth or a couple or three layers of finish cloth tape over the edge and shape the round using the uncured thickened epoxy and glass. With the glass overlaying onto the board, you will not have a problem with the edge, or moisture in the end grain even if you rub the glass over sandy or oyster bottoms. Just keep tabs on the edge from time to time. If you use a good primer over the glass work that will be hidden like Interprotect 2000, this further creates a bullet proof arrangement.
  5. IIRC Craig ? was involved there but I lost touch over the years with him. Its really amazing how many projects built with average plywood has surviced over the years. The older Luan back them was decent stock and worked for trailer projects if you would be mindful of any areas that may become an issue with dampness or checking. I seem to recall that project . Dang I am getting really old.
  6. Do not glass your plywood before gluing up your hull layers. And for sure don't use 5200 between the layers, which is and has been promoted by some rebuilders of older multi layer hulls. I think you are talking about using wetted out glass in lieu of mixing up cabosil and epoxy between the layers of plywood. I would ask Alan and Graham about that. That method has been used in the past on many one off cold mold hulls when the building method came about, even using chop matt and wet it out in hopes to avoid voids, and an easier method of glue up instead of all the mixing. But these days when using jigs and building boats created by designers, the hulls are fairer and the engineering is better for the minimum amount of added weight too. So the glue ups require less filler materials. You will end up with a much heavier boat , especially if you use biaxal and accomplish nothing really if you use finish cloth. Now I have used 403 fibers in areas that has more concave shapes instead of the cabosil. But as long as your fits in your layers are good, you should not need the 403, which is more dense. There are alternative methods of laminating layers of plywood to achieve a solid bond in lieu of using a bunch of screws and washers , a common practice. In the not so extreme flares in particular look up Raptor staple gun and plastic staples. They work really well in the small tumblehone area in the aft sections and in the bottom panels if you need to laminate layers. When the glue is cured, just knock off the extra if any and you are good to go. They save you tons of work in your finish section of your build. These will minimize your work on your final layer in the flatter areas. We also use golf tees to fill holes that has had the larger screws and washers You sanding is more uniform when sanding simular materials. The Raptor staples work in a simular way. . This gives you a cleaner finish of simular products under the glass to minimize some print thru that can happen when using thickened cabosil in the holes before glassing and possibly dished out areas around the harder areas of the cured glue and wood.. You can also skin over any compression areas with a mix of 406 and 410, . There will be some shrinking if you use more 410 from west system or glass beads in the mix. So let cure and check your areas before glassing. Do most of your fairing before your finish glass goes on.
  7. Its a shame that the Friday night chew and chat has been canceled. Heck all the folks still should put their order in and pick it up at the take out section and spread out at the creek. The fine family at the eatery has been hit hard like most of the other small businesses and their food is top shelf, especially their strombole [sp?]
  8. If I may be bold I would consider not using the plastic fuel tank. Aluminum coated with Coal tar epoxy or Interprotect 2000 works really well for longevity on the tanks. Beautiful job on laying the hull out and getting it to the rough in shape.
  9. FWIW or what you paid for it, when using fasteners to hold parts down in place while your glue dries, personally I use fine thread screws, which do not grab and hold onto thickened epoxy that's not only dried but cured solid before removing the screws and washers. In many cases they will wring off . If you see that you are having problems backing them back out, use a soldering iron on the head or a small propane torch for a few seconds to heat them up and normally they will come right out without a problem.
  10. The favorite fixall for trailer lights are the trailer upright guides with the lights at the top of them. the wiring junctions never hit saltwater. You can buy LED lights and guides. There are license plate brackets too in this option. https://www.amazon.com/boat-trailer-guide-lights/s?k=boat+trailer+guide+lights
  11. Well the Moc stern still will not have a lot of buoyancy. I left it long instead of cutting it back to the flatter region behind the back seat. I wanted to end up with enough room to stretch my arm to the tiller. I may install a pulley system on the handle area with a stick steering. Now that's going to some farmer rigging if that happens. I will be using a 2.5. But I plan on installing some foam under a false floor behind the rear seat after my first in water test. But along those lines I have a small cooler that fits nicely in the bow. So with block ice and some drinks, maybe some canned ice tea and my second non-paying passenger we can make the boat work for our creeker carried on a farmer designed canoe rack in the truck bed and across the cab.
  12. Well It sounded like you did not want to spend to get another trailer with related costs. But if all else fails go the Harbor Freight route, which converts to a great freshwater bunk trailer for about half the costs of an Ex Loader . The jet ski trailers work well too, which of course you being a man of experience will do a similar job even though the tongue is shorter than the boat trailers. FWIW, I have converted the Mocassin 2 to square stern canoe. I know, In know, "shiver me timbers"
  13. So are you implying that you don't think much of my mountaineer fix? But you can save your points to add to your handicap for the duck pin league. From the book by Jim Reed : To go around the horn in a square rigged ship is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. To do it more than once is the sign of real manliness or foolishness. I wouldn't want to do it even once. Jim Reed Author And for good measure here is one for you. This will provide you some varnishing music. https://gurdybird.bandcamp.com/album/different-ships-different-long-splices Let us know when you are venturing out to a campground with your vessel. We are looking for an excuse to go to the mountain top for some cooler weather and away from the herds in town.
  14. It looks like the front portion will fit between the sides of the current trailer. So Maybe add two new 2 x 6 carpet covered bunks to the trailer partially extending the flat bed, making a combination boat trailer and utility trailer. This lowers the location of the boat and install the winch to the front of the cross section of the trailer. All you also need to do is to install the two bunks on pivot pins at the bottom portion of trailer frame making this trailer like the older ones where the back portion operates on a pull pin. Of course the longer point would be on the forward section from the back of the trailer so that the bunks do not dig in as you back down to load. Just my thinking anyway, If you need the lights to be back further, then use the portable lights purchased from Harbor Freight or Walmart, which sells them locally mounted on a 2x4 and tie it to your boat's transom on the top ladder back rails
  15. Cool project and great work, All you need to help load that boat in the trailer is a galvanized pipe threaded at the end and end caps mounted on the back of the trailer using u-bolts at the end or a piece of metal with drilled holes so that the pipe can spin with caps and a pool noddle and you are all set up. If you want to get that "iron jib" out of your way and upgrade to a bigger one, let me know. I will offset your upgrade engine fund. Did you ever get rid of that canoe boat? If not let me know. I got rid of my inflatable and need something for the grandkids until they can get back into school in Aug.
  16. We sent an email to your listed email address.
  17. We have sent you an email to your listed email address in your ad posted in the classified section. If this is incorrect shoot me a pm with any updated information and we will reply.
  18. Yes I continue to try and clean out my garage with accumulated stuff that I know longer plan on using. This is old stock that's left over. Its approx. 329 bd. ft. The boards are 6, 7, 8 an 10 inch wide stock and 9 to 10 foot in length. Located eastern North Carolina and can deliver regionally if you want the entire lot. I will let it go for 9 bucks a bd. ft. I surfaced planed the entire lot.
  19. So The folks hanging out in and around Chapel Creek have snuck in a new one on us. Come out of the closet Alan and tell us a bit more about how this one came about.
  20. Wow, what a nice project and workmanship.. I really like the colors and the built in facilities. Hope your daughter stays say and enjoys herself too as she travels and works at the same time. I have a DIL that did that for a while before settling down with my son. An adventure while making great money, what more can you ask for in your youth.. Thanks a bunch for sharing.
  21. That looks like a nice tear drop. Any more details on that one? Brent that used to be active on the forum and built and sailed several of B&B designs sailed extensively by himself on the lake. Maybe seek out his profile here and send him a private message. Maybe he is still available that way. Or maybe Graham has his number. I lost his regular email.
  22. I am not a big guy. But I found that 16 inches on small row boats works for me. I also use 9 foot oars.
  23. You will have a complete package that compliments each other while being usable. Great job as always. And I like the name too.
  24. Those small skiffs are very practical for inshore creek fishing and birding. If you are in the panhandle, then the boat would work great for redfish and trout. Adam is very responsive to your questions . If you run into a problem let me know too. I am sure that I can share an opinion or two, which may confuse you even more.
  25. Yes the scarf fir plywood was readily available back then. And the red stuff is resorcinol glue. And you needed good fitting seams and joints when using that. But it was some great stuff. Looking forward to both your finished products.
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