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Everything posted by Oyster

  1. I have searched for the build photos that used to be on the local community college web page but I cannot find it anymore. That was a fairly decent tutorial for any beginner or for someone deciding if the boat would work for them. Maybe Alan has more information on the old files. I did speak to the fellow thats doing their boatbuilding program now. But he states the files are missing from the inner workings of the college.
  2. You continue to amaze me with your continued work, workmanship and the desire to continue to build after your "retirement age". Maybe we will get up that way sometime for the fall colors and get to see your creation in person.
  3. These are my go to roller heads. The candy stripe i s your typical Mohair head and the Epoxy Glue is a blend of what appears to be a synthetic blend hair, which is a bit shorter. I also cut them in half and use them on the smaller frames instead of buying the smaller ones. You get almost two for one for the price. I trim any fuzz off the edges before rolling with the cut ones. I have never had them come apart.
  4. I think Ken was being sarcastic at the time since his boat was yellow and did find himself on an occasion in an "Unorthodox " position. I wish he would check in and give us an update.
  5. Yellow makes it easier to see when you are on your side or probably upside down and rolling in the seas. So are you still around and reading? Check in sometime and give us an update on your goings on.
  6. Nice shed, she will have a first class home on land. Well a lot of glass work has been done on the bottom. I have the entire bottom glassed and working towards the first coat of fairing compound. We modified the large flat bow forefoot, which was generated by the bottom planking deadrise, since it did not look right to the eye. . Since I had the tapered skeg that finished off into the curve, I added two pieces of solid mahogany, overlaying the tapered layers over the glass shoe that runs the entire length of the bottom on the entire skeg and then sanded the continuing deadrise on the sides. The glass shoe is close to 3/16". So between the mahogany and the glass, hopefully there will be little damage to the bottom under normal run shallow water contacts. This gives me the nice 1 plus inch flat surface that will work better for the entire bow when the sides are planked, even though the edges got rounded over. This will work nicely for the bow eye to sit flat when installed .Then I tab glassed the add on to the sides. I will add to the face of the existing stem and work my side battens and planking into that area to the top of the stem. This still tapered into the flatter skeg area, just further up and still gives me the raise skeg for beaching and for taking the abuse of shallow water beaching or running in inshore.
  7. Well its been a slow go with several distractions. But I am slowly making my way to planking the hull. I have the bottom ready to glass, but I am doing some additional details to the bottom and some inside tabbing to the main bulkheads while its upside down. I have the bracket done and did change the horn timber setup bringing one of the layers along side of one of the keel members and the other one is butted and fastened in place to the main keel. I am also adding a small skeg and have brought the foward end down the forefoot and tapered it out half the way down. This will have a glass shoe on it and hopefully will be a buffer when beaching in shallow water cruising.
  8. My point as it relates to different fuel burns is not all trips are the same in time and the amount of fuel used, depending ona lot of factors. Sea conditions changes your running rpm and even your fishing speeds. But no big deal,, If I understand you correctly you are asking if stretching the Ocracoke will yield you a better fuel burn from the original. Well naturally you are adding more weight when you stretch any original design. Will it make a difference? ??? Don’t know, But you are trying to compare the design to a Panga that has no simular features in their design to the OK, which has an entirely different wetted bottom in the water for starters. I don’t think anyone can give you a concrete answer to what you are wanting. Of course this is really a question that the Designer can follow up.. Just trying to relate my own experiences and thoughts.. But for some reason no matter the design, its fairly common for people to want to change the plans , which can have some adverse affects after they are built and loaded. This is my personal observation. I will bow out now and just read.
  9. First off the Panga has a completely different bottom and draft than the boat you are considering. Its originally designed to be beached. The narrow beam works in the favor of riding in the big swells associated with the regions that they were native to. Leaving the beam aside for the design, I never have felt or heard that the lack of beam was targeted directly as being able to use a smaller engine. In most of the areas that you see them, the boaters are not concerned about going fast. I can't speak about what the original ones weighs in a simular length, built in wood, so I would not really think about how a new build weight compares to the original Pangas. Of course in general, the narrower the beam, the less you may burn in fuel, with a lot of iff ands and butts. So I would not try to compare the two designs solely on fuel burn. Profile lusting happens to a lot of folks in their original search that ends up favoring a Carolina design. But last do not attempt to under power any boat for the sake of an idea of burning less fuel. Of course the larger the engine, the more you initially spend for your power. There are a lot of instances of putting the proper engine on a boat and not having to run it on the top end, yielding you less burn less fuel than an under powered boat and having to shove the throttles to the pins to get the running angle right too. You end up dragging tail. Of course trim tabs are installed in a lot of under powered boats to get it to run decent and perform in a sea comfortably. And when your get it rigged, your boat always gains weight too. Sometimes this happens to modify your performance. Sportfish boats are not boats really designed around sipping fuel. Each person has their own idea about what they budget on fuel. SO its hard for most of us to know that target. No two trips will yield you the same gpm.
  10. First off I am not a professional designer and never play one on the internet. And I surely will not suggest any modifications on any current B&B designs. But with that said now, I will relate my experiment on this very topic, which hits me directly in the forehead when I built my current 19 skiff. My skiff is 9 years old now and has a lot of water under its keel in that time. Its a traditionally framed skiff planked in lapstrake. The skiff weighs with the engine on it rigged for fishing at around 1,100 lbs. The engine is hung on a traditional transom instead of a bracket, where your deadweight is hung further aft without any bottom in the water for support. When i was considering the build I did not want or consider a big engine, but a 60 hp, 229 lb four stroke. I only carry a six gallon fuel tank too. I started my narrowing of the waterline beam further aft than I normally would have when considering how the boat would handle down sea. This pointed the bottom in my shallow draft boat longer to the bow. It is a bit narrower than a normal boat in a simular size, but not as narrow as a Panga. I did have the Panga in mind, but never wanted anything than narrow or shape. The constant nasty shallow water chop in our area has always been uncomfortable over the years. So as my bride and I have aged, and we did not need a lot of room, we gave up some beam and modified the bottom in my point of view to deal with the slop. The boat is shallow draft, very dry and very comfortable at 20 to 22 mph and tops out at 29. Now overall we did notice that what I did does remove some of the hump when starting out and trolls at a nice 9 to 10 mph flatter. If the weather is nice , when I get on plane, I just trim the engine up a bit and gain about 2 mph in speed on my cruise with less bottom in the water. I also keep the nose up a bit when running downwind and under certain conditions I keep the trim up a bit more than I do when I normally set it at when running in smooth water. As a side note there are some of the larger sportfishermen that the designer is aware of, one being a Jim Smith and a spin off being Kirkline that has a different shape to the chines starting at the transom that changes and increases the deadrise from the transom, which makes them run flatter too. especially the Kirkline.
  11. I think Rosie, baggage and their escort can fit in the Guppy, which I don't its being used right now. ?
  12. Of course depending on the sized screws used , when removing them, just get a box of golf tees or three or six, which can be purchased online and coat the ends with epoxy and tap them in the holes. Let dry and then grind or sand off after cutting them fat. You are always dealing with some dishes in the wood if you use thickened epoxy and let it get really hard and sand the areas. The wood around the holes naturally sands easier, causing some cosmetic issues and additional work when finishing the boat. This is an alternative from using thickened epoxy and dealing with some of the downsides of just thickened epoxy down the road under topcoat paints. We also use a combination of cabosil and microlight for thickening agent. The rational reason is that when you use just thickened cabosil, this is a different makeup and density from the wood and you can get some print thru the topcoat paint down the road. The microlight blend can shrink a bit too but softer and less epoxy to create a harder surface than the wood along side the holes.. So leave the fill a bit high and let it cure for a couple of days before smoothing the fill out. The golf tees are simular to the wood no matter the type of wood they are made of and minimizes most of the print thru. Of course they are not always the same wood as your plywood. But when you use Okumne and do not glass, the wood is not really much different than how the Okumne face skins age under proper primer and topcoats for trailable boats. YMMV and may vary from the designers suggestions...So I say experiment and see what works for you.
  13. Pretty work sir, but if I may be so bold, working in primitive regions of the "world" there is only one tool that you need for cutting gains and truing up joints, which can be done with a simple 29.95 angle grinder purchased at any big box stores with a soft pad. Draw you a line and apply 12,000 rpm to a soft pad and 36 grit disc. for around 30 seconds, tapering the layers and glue up. If you wish, take floor surfacing paper and a small wooden block to smooth the tapers out. Mission accomplished. P.S., now the warning label,, don't attempt this with extra fingers and legs bracing up the ends of thin woods and while trying to drink almost all of the rye whiskey bottle up except for a few sips to bless the last plank.?
  14. Pretty cool boats,, Old Codgers need to find a working Sea Gull engine so that you can find your way back home following the oil slick.?
  15. When logged in I still get her full screen in all of her glory, maybe purchased in the middle of the page. I have the Advast ad blocker too. But the 12 bucks I spend is spent not really to remove any ad, but to slip Frank a tip, even if I never post.
  16. There are cheap microwaves for 50 bucks or so at wallyworld. But for some reason I have never connected the dots of epoxy and pop tarts. But now that you bring it up, maybe that's why I seem to gain more weight when microwaving and eating pop tarts while building boats . I guess they stick to me more than normal.?
  17. I am sure this project will be first rate. And FWIW you can make fast hardener out of slow hardener by enhancing the chemical process with a cheap microwave. On small batches, just hit the mixed batch up for about ten seconds , which will nudge the curing process a bit. But I do this only on the resin in many cases, which will transfer the warmth to the room temperature of the hardener. Experiment with a few mixes now and you will get the hang of it and know about how many seconds for certain amounts given the ambient temp that works in your favor. You ain't got time to go bike riding feller.? And of course in those zero tolerance joints for those planks that takes on their own shape when they end up upright and full size, make sure you wet out the end grain several times, which I am sure you know, but wanted to throw that in for anyone working with simular tolerances. My stringers needed some cabosil , but being straight the slight bit of added length does not bother the shape or fairness.
  18. Bowbert I don't know if the full set of plans are avaliable. I do have related sheets that details the jig setup, with comments printed on the pages reflecting the setup of the parts. I have been plowing along on some parts details and gluing up the fixed frames and stringers. I have cut the deck cleats that goes along side of the stringers and when the hull is flipped this added area gives you plenty of area to secure your decks in place . I have all the side battens cut and edge routered and plan on coating them with sealer before installing them in place. I have used solid mahogany for the foward deck beam glued to the main foward bulkhead. Yes that's a wee bit more weight than using plywood for the side frames. But that's just me. Just some misc shots
  19. After building my cabin hull and seeing an empty shed, I got to talking to a fellow that's in the process of working towards retirement and he was looking to get on the water at the end of his career. So I said while I was constantly being sent to my doghouse when being bugged by the bride about honey do projects not getting done I may as well be productive over the winter and build a boat. ? This was the first fully cut jig that's now being offered in stages, in my case as the jig gets fine tuned. We will be going with an engine bracket , replacing the engine mounted on the transom and splashwell. I think there can be an alternative option if you wish of a full hull extension I suppose from talking at great length. This will be a slow process and redundant for many that's watched the cold molded process of a hull. But I will add some eyewash slowly on occasions . I will give a shout out to Ken [Kennessee ] and a lot of positive feedback from his two seasons on the water that helped in the planning stage. This helped in some decision making in the hull tweaking that will make a positive impact in the completed hull layout down the road. And thanks to Alan and Graham for responding to many questions and listening to us for months on end to get us to this point.
  20. Sent you a mail,, have some track, sail brackets and nice small bronze cleats, just got to figure out how to get it to you
  21. All rvs have solar panels completely exposed to the elements. The little tear drop ones uses mostly portable suit case panels. The most economical direction is to go to Harbor Freight and get their 25 watt panel, which acts as a trickle charger and use a simple Rule bilge pump to a conventional and small 12 volt motorcycle battery. They come in AGM. This is the direction that is used on many wooden skiffs stored in the water, but with wet cell batteries. But the upgrade is nicer..
  22. I have set the rope in thickened epoxy with a few small wire brad or tack thru the rope on the edge to temporarily hold it in place. Dry fit the length of the rope before starting the job of course. While wet just cover the rope with more thickened epoxy and then work a layer of biaxal glass covered by a layer of finish cloth or a couple or three layers of finish cloth tape over the edge and shape the round using the uncured thickened epoxy and glass. With the glass overlaying onto the board, you will not have a problem with the edge, or moisture in the end grain even if you rub the glass over sandy or oyster bottoms. Just keep tabs on the edge from time to time. If you use a good primer over the glass work that will be hidden like Interprotect 2000, this further creates a bullet proof arrangement.
  23. IIRC Craig ? was involved there but I lost touch over the years with him. Its really amazing how many projects built with average plywood has surviced over the years. The older Luan back them was decent stock and worked for trailer projects if you would be mindful of any areas that may become an issue with dampness or checking. I seem to recall that project . Dang I am getting really old.
  24. Do not glass your plywood before gluing up your hull layers. And for sure don't use 5200 between the layers, which is and has been promoted by some rebuilders of older multi layer hulls. I think you are talking about using wetted out glass in lieu of mixing up cabosil and epoxy between the layers of plywood. I would ask Alan and Graham about that. That method has been used in the past on many one off cold mold hulls when the building method came about, even using chop matt and wet it out in hopes to avoid voids, and an easier method of glue up instead of all the mixing. But these days when using jigs and building boats created by designers, the hulls are fairer and the engineering is better for the minimum amount of added weight too. So the glue ups require less filler materials. You will end up with a much heavier boat , especially if you use biaxal and accomplish nothing really if you use finish cloth. Now I have used 403 fibers in areas that has more concave shapes instead of the cabosil. But as long as your fits in your layers are good, you should not need the 403, which is more dense. There are alternative methods of laminating layers of plywood to achieve a solid bond in lieu of using a bunch of screws and washers , a common practice. In the not so extreme flares in particular look up Raptor staple gun and plastic staples. They work really well in the small tumblehone area in the aft sections and in the bottom panels if you need to laminate layers. When the glue is cured, just knock off the extra if any and you are good to go. They save you tons of work in your finish section of your build. These will minimize your work on your final layer in the flatter areas. We also use golf tees to fill holes that has had the larger screws and washers You sanding is more uniform when sanding simular materials. The Raptor staples work in a simular way. . This gives you a cleaner finish of simular products under the glass to minimize some print thru that can happen when using thickened cabosil in the holes before glassing and possibly dished out areas around the harder areas of the cured glue and wood.. You can also skin over any compression areas with a mix of 406 and 410, . There will be some shrinking if you use more 410 from west system or glass beads in the mix. So let cure and check your areas before glassing. Do most of your fairing before your finish glass goes on.
  25. Its a shame that the Friday night chew and chat has been canceled. Heck all the folks still should put their order in and pick it up at the take out section and spread out at the creek. The fine family at the eatery has been hit hard like most of the other small businesses and their food is top shelf, especially their strombole [sp?]
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