Oyster

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Life and sometimes longevity is about mind over matter. For sure you have the ultimate attitude to manage your current issue. Making the most of what we have at each segment of our life should always be the goal of everyone too. You inspire that each and everyday. It was really nice to see you and catch up a bit over the weekend.

That almost looks like George Washington crossing the Delaware.Glad to read you and your group are getting the hang of attacking the challenges of docking in a professional way in your beautiful craft.

Both the 24 and the 26 involves the same steps, just a few more pieces of wood and will handle the same. We never seem to have enough room inside, the more we use one. But after going back and forth between the two sizes, the difference for me would be a bit more room for a head and shower in the 26 if you create a decent layout inside the cabin with about the same creature comforts for cruising and overnighting. Now to speak about Ken and esteem builder of the Bluejacket, both are hard to live up to in their standards of excellence, creation and execution of boat building skills. I haven't updated my thread since I have been in the stage of laminating the sides, which is like building two boats in one with the cold molding process. So if you go this route be prepared to have plenty of patience as you see the boat take shape,,,,,,,,slowly. That's my recommendation to anyone that's never bit off a project with shape before. And I recommend going with a slower harder for your larger glue ups. And be patient and let things dry enough before moving along to your next step if its related to your last step. Wet out properly all mating parts.

Nice work,, You are not far from launching, just a few more details. Its amazing how much work you end up with after the flip. But at least you have a helper to speed things up.

I don't read anything that your should worry about. Airplane pilots gets tested all the time in simulators so they can sharpen up their skills and response times when abnormal stuff happens. And you do need some battle scars on the next paint, to get this behind you. Now you can relax and just enjoy your boat without a worry.

Well not a lot to show in this stage, but I found the whisky plank. :<} and ready for the edges to be trimmed. I capped the stem ends with solid mahogany and will wrap a couple of tabs around the stem front before doing the chine tabs. Silently in the middle of the night I can hear " Prepare to ram" hehe I plan to rough block the sides before I glass to eliminate a lot of the ever present dimples thats generated by screws and washers in the soft plywood faces . The bow eye plate will lay perfectly flat on the face of the solid wood.

I don't see boat building as being foolish. Some people blow their money away on drugs, cigarettes and wild wimmin and have nothing to show for the spending but medical bills sometimes. I think we are some of the smartest people on the planet. Boat builders are carpenters that turns straight wood into round objects. They are electrical engineers, world navigators, and many have a way to keep wimmin happy as they spend their money on the boat building addiction, and some even smile at you in the process. Now that takes a genius to pull some of this boat building off. On a side note there is real artistry on display by so many of your guys. Maybe staple them to the wall and call it art and put a price tag on them for a half million bucks. Some of us foolish folks try to sell them as floating toys, which brings us a return of about half the materials, you know. :<}}

Thanks fellows. Well work has been proceeding along. Next week we plan on starting to plank the opposing sides. I did manage to purchase a pretty substantial u-bolt bow eye and it came a set of two. I will only be using one. So if anyone else finds a need for one with a long threaded shank, feel free to send a pm and you can have it. This is the link to the specs. The defender ones required a shipping cost of half the price of the bow eye u bolt. And I don't see any problems with this one having it in hand. I will dry fit it and will have the holes in place when I finish the planking and glass work to clean up and install in place. NovelBee 2 Pack of Stainless Steel Stern Bow Eye Tie Down U Bolt with Hex Nuts and washers,Stock Dia. 5/8",Thread Length 5-7/16",Overall Length 8"

Thanks for the link. I would like to use the two threaded shank set up, which most have a small plate in which assists in sealing the region in and around the drilled holes. In the past the single shank has had the tendency to spin , which means there is a potential overtime for the water to wick around the shaft and into the underside of the glass region of the stems. All of the Simmons used single shank eye bolts, even though the use of beading compounds was absent. But I just want to hopefully remove this possible problem. Check in sometime and give me an update on your shed facility for your own yacht.

Did you mistype this description? Or are you saying that purely wet resin does not pull any cotton fibers away when touching it?

Thanks for the interest in watching grass grow and the replies. It was a pleasure to work along side of the new hire. The price was right, a piece of baloney with one piece of white bread per day. I have been busy making progress with some additional details between finishing up the second layer. Of course the new shot does not show the detail of the team care of getting the first layer as fair as possible for the second layer, which deals with how much work you will need in the glassing and fairing process before paint. So for anyone considering a cold mold hull, while you want to get the hull planked up, spend time in the set up phase and when you are installing your battens that they are fair the entire running length. Then as you are gluing up the thinner first layer don't attempt to screw your layers right at the butt seams, which will create deeper areas to fill when you are applying the thickened glue for the second layer before you want to install the second layer. And of course you really do not want to grind down the any humps a way back from the seams if you tighten down too close to the edge. Figure your second layer that they will land middle way of the first layer, which will further make the outer laminate fairer by the natural tendency in the first layer to not be so flat to the battens. Hope this will help someone watching. Will be grinding all the edges to shape at the sheer and reverse chine flats and clean up all the excess seam resin this week. At this point in time I will figure out what I think will be the location of the bow eye for the trailer, since we have one for it to fit on before I work on the opposing side and get it ready for planking. I like to do this because its much easier with the access when standing along side of the area. Since the stem back is open I can do what I need to counter bore and recess any coupler for an extension since I have not been able to access 1/2" bow eyes with the threaded shafts long enough to fasten to the back side with its nuts on the original ends. More to follow on my process, unless someone can tell me where I can find approx 5 inch stainless steel eyebolts. And yes as you can see my moaning chair has filled up a bit too. Okay now

Merry Christmas to everyone. I have been making progress, just haven't gotten to the point of posting some of the boring progress of planking. The big guy came for a bit and sped up the progress with assembly line precision, operating the sharpie for the cuts and the kept the screw gun smoking. Luckily the screw gun had a protective coating of epoxy to cool down the heat transfer to the hands. Will provide pictures in the next couple of days when I get things cleaned up on the one side.

Okay, without pictures or videos, it did not happen. Must have been a classified gathering in some remote region of Area 51 with no leakers? You guys are slacking off.

I have searched for the build photos that used to be on the local community college web page but I cannot find it anymore. That was a fairly decent tutorial for any beginner or for someone deciding if the boat would work for them. Maybe Alan has more information on the old files. I did speak to the fellow thats doing their boatbuilding program now. But he states the files are missing from the inner workings of the college.

You continue to amaze me with your continued work, workmanship and the desire to continue to build after your "retirement age". Maybe we will get up that way sometime for the fall colors and get to see your creation in person.

These are my go to roller heads. The candy stripe i s your typical Mohair head and the Epoxy Glue is a blend of what appears to be a synthetic blend hair, which is a bit shorter. I also cut them in half and use them on the smaller frames instead of buying the smaller ones. You get almost two for one for the price. I trim any fuzz off the edges before rolling with the cut ones. I have never had them come apart.

I think Ken was being sarcastic at the time since his boat was yellow and did find himself on an occasion in an "Unorthodox " position. I wish he would check in and give us an update.

Yellow makes it easier to see when you are on your side or probably upside down and rolling in the seas. So are you still around and reading? Check in sometime and give us an update on your goings on.

Nice shed, she will have a first class home on land. Well a lot of glass work has been done on the bottom. I have the entire bottom glassed and working towards the first coat of fairing compound. We modified the large flat bow forefoot, which was generated by the bottom planking deadrise, since it did not look right to the eye. . Since I had the tapered skeg that finished off into the curve, I added two pieces of solid mahogany, overlaying the tapered layers over the glass shoe that runs the entire length of the bottom on the entire skeg and then sanded the continuing deadrise on the sides. The glass shoe is close to 3/16". So between the mahogany and the glass, hopefully there will be little damage to the bottom under normal run shallow water contacts. This gives me the nice 1 plus inch flat surface that will work better for the entire bow when the sides are planked, even though the edges got rounded over. This will work nicely for the bow eye to sit flat when installed .Then I tab glassed the add on to the sides. I will add to the face of the existing stem and work my side battens and planking into that area to the top of the stem. This still tapered into the flatter skeg area, just further up and still gives me the raise skeg for beaching and for taking the abuse of shallow water beaching or running in inshore.

Well its been a slow go with several distractions. But I am slowly making my way to planking the hull. I have the bottom ready to glass, but I am doing some additional details to the bottom and some inside tabbing to the main bulkheads while its upside down. I have the bracket done and did change the horn timber setup bringing one of the layers along side of one of the keel members and the other one is butted and fastened in place to the main keel. I am also adding a small skeg and have brought the foward end down the forefoot and tapered it out half the way down. This will have a glass shoe on it and hopefully will be a buffer when beaching in shallow water cruising.

My point as it relates to different fuel burns is not all trips are the same in time and the amount of fuel used, depending ona lot of factors. Sea conditions changes your running rpm and even your fishing speeds. But no big deal,, If I understand you correctly you are asking if stretching the Ocracoke will yield you a better fuel burn from the original. Well naturally you are adding more weight when you stretch any original design. Will it make a difference? ??? Don’t know, But you are trying to compare the design to a Panga that has no simular features in their design to the OK, which has an entirely different wetted bottom in the water for starters. I don’t think anyone can give you a concrete answer to what you are wanting. Of course this is really a question that the Designer can follow up.. Just trying to relate my own experiences and thoughts.. But for some reason no matter the design, its fairly common for people to want to change the plans , which can have some adverse affects after they are built and loaded. This is my personal observation. I will bow out now and just read.

First off the Panga has a completely different bottom and draft than the boat you are considering. Its originally designed to be beached. The narrow beam works in the favor of riding in the big swells associated with the regions that they were native to. Leaving the beam aside for the design, I never have felt or heard that the lack of beam was targeted directly as being able to use a smaller engine. In most of the areas that you see them, the boaters are not concerned about going fast. I can't speak about what the original ones weighs in a simular length, built in wood, so I would not really think about how a new build weight compares to the original Pangas. Of course in general, the narrower the beam, the less you may burn in fuel, with a lot of iff ands and butts. So I would not try to compare the two designs solely on fuel burn. Profile lusting happens to a lot of folks in their original search that ends up favoring a Carolina design. But last do not attempt to under power any boat for the sake of an idea of burning less fuel. Of course the larger the engine, the more you initially spend for your power. There are a lot of instances of putting the proper engine on a boat and not having to run it on the top end, yielding you less burn less fuel than an under powered boat and having to shove the throttles to the pins to get the running angle right too. You end up dragging tail. Of course trim tabs are installed in a lot of under powered boats to get it to run decent and perform in a sea comfortably. And when your get it rigged, your boat always gains weight too. Sometimes this happens to modify your performance. Sportfish boats are not boats really designed around sipping fuel. Each person has their own idea about what they budget on fuel. SO its hard for most of us to know that target. No two trips will yield you the same gpm.

First off I am not a professional designer and never play one on the internet. And I surely will not suggest any modifications on any current B&B designs. But with that said now, I will relate my experiment on this very topic, which hits me directly in the forehead when I built my current 19 skiff. My skiff is 9 years old now and has a lot of water under its keel in that time. Its a traditionally framed skiff planked in lapstrake. The skiff weighs with the engine on it rigged for fishing at around 1,100 lbs. The engine is hung on a traditional transom instead of a bracket, where your deadweight is hung further aft without any bottom in the water for support. When i was considering the build I did not want or consider a big engine, but a 60 hp, 229 lb four stroke. I only carry a six gallon fuel tank too. I started my narrowing of the waterline beam further aft than I normally would have when considering how the boat would handle down sea. This pointed the bottom in my shallow draft boat longer to the bow. It is a bit narrower than a normal boat in a simular size, but not as narrow as a Panga. I did have the Panga in mind, but never wanted anything than narrow or shape. The constant nasty shallow water chop in our area has always been uncomfortable over the years. So as my bride and I have aged, and we did not need a lot of room, we gave up some beam and modified the bottom in my point of view to deal with the slop. The boat is shallow draft, very dry and very comfortable at 20 to 22 mph and tops out at 29. Now overall we did notice that what I did does remove some of the hump when starting out and trolls at a nice 9 to 10 mph flatter. If the weather is nice , when I get on plane, I just trim the engine up a bit and gain about 2 mph in speed on my cruise with less bottom in the water. I also keep the nose up a bit when running downwind and under certain conditions I keep the trim up a bit more than I do when I normally set it at when running in smooth water. As a side note there are some of the larger sportfishermen that the designer is aware of, one being a Jim Smith and a spin off being Kirkline that has a different shape to the chines starting at the transom that changes and increases the deadrise from the transom, which makes them run flatter too. especially the Kirkline.

I think Rosie, baggage and their escort can fit in the Guppy, which I don't its being used right now. ?