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Everything posted by Oyster

  1. Of course depending on the sized screws used , when removing them, just get a box of golf tees or three or six, which can be purchased online and coat the ends with epoxy and tap them in the holes. Let dry and then grind or sand off after cutting them fat. You are always dealing with some dishes in the wood if you use thickened epoxy and let it get really hard and sand the areas. The wood around the holes naturally sands easier, causing some cosmetic issues and additional work when finishing the boat. This is an alternative from using thickened epoxy and dealing with some of the downsides of just thickened epoxy down the road under topcoat paints. We also use a combination of cabosil and microlight for thickening agent. The rational reason is that when you use just thickened cabosil, this is a different makeup and density from the wood and you can get some print thru the topcoat paint down the road. The microlight blend can shrink a bit too but softer and less epoxy to create a harder surface than the wood along side the holes.. So leave the fill a bit high and let it cure for a couple of days before smoothing the fill out. The golf tees are simular to the wood no matter the type of wood they are made of and minimizes most of the print thru. Of course they are not always the same wood as your plywood. But when you use Okumne and do not glass, the wood is not really much different than how the Okumne face skins age under proper primer and topcoats for trailable boats. YMMV and may vary from the designers suggestions...So I say experiment and see what works for you.
  2. Pretty work sir, but if I may be so bold, working in primitive regions of the "world" there is only one tool that you need for cutting gains and truing up joints, which can be done with a simple 29.95 angle grinder purchased at any big box stores with a soft pad. Draw you a line and apply 12,000 rpm to a soft pad and 36 grit disc. for around 30 seconds, tapering the layers and glue up. If you wish, take floor surfacing paper and a small wooden block to smooth the tapers out. Mission accomplished. P.S., now the warning label,, don't attempt this with extra fingers and legs bracing up the ends of thin woods and while trying to drink almost all of the rye whiskey bottle up except for a few sips to bless the last plank.
  3. Pretty cool boats,, Old Codgers need to find a working Sea Gull engine so that you can find your way back home following the oil slick.
  4. When logged in I still get her full screen in all of her glory, maybe purchased in the middle of the page. I have the Advast ad blocker too. But the 12 bucks I spend is spent not really to remove any ad, but to slip Frank a tip, even if I never post.
  5. There are cheap microwaves for 50 bucks or so at wallyworld. But for some reason I have never connected the dots of epoxy and pop tarts. But now that you bring it up, maybe that's why I seem to gain more weight when microwaving and eating pop tarts while building boats . I guess they stick to me more than normal.
  6. I am sure this project will be first rate. And FWIW you can make fast hardener out of slow hardener by enhancing the chemical process with a cheap microwave. On small batches, just hit the mixed batch up for about ten seconds , which will nudge the curing process a bit. But I do this only on the resin in many cases, which will transfer the warmth to the room temperature of the hardener. Experiment with a few mixes now and you will get the hang of it and know about how many seconds for certain amounts given the ambient temp that works in your favor. You ain't got time to go bike riding feller. And of course in those zero tolerance joints for those planks that takes on their own shape when they end up upright and full size, make sure you wet out the end grain several times, which I am sure you know, but wanted to throw that in for anyone working with simular tolerances. My stringers needed some cabosil , but being straight the slight bit of added length does not bother the shape or fairness.
  7. Bowbert I don't know if the full set of plans are avaliable. I do have related sheets that details the jig setup, with comments printed on the pages reflecting the setup of the parts. I have been plowing along on some parts details and gluing up the fixed frames and stringers. I have cut the deck cleats that goes along side of the stringers and when the hull is flipped this added area gives you plenty of area to secure your decks in place . I have all the side battens cut and edge routered and plan on coating them with sealer before installing them in place. I have used solid mahogany for the foward deck beam glued to the main foward bulkhead. Yes that's a wee bit more weight than using plywood for the side frames. But that's just me. Just some misc shots
  8. After building my cabin hull and seeing an empty shed, I got to talking to a fellow that's in the process of working towards retirement and he was looking to get on the water at the end of his career. So I said while I was constantly being sent to my doghouse when being bugged by the bride about honey do projects not getting done I may as well be productive over the winter and build a boat. This was the first fully cut jig that's now being offered in stages, in my case as the jig gets fine tuned. We will be going with an engine bracket , replacing the engine mounted on the transom and splashwell. I think there can be an alternative option if you wish of a full hull extension I suppose from talking at great length. This will be a slow process and redundant for many that's watched the cold molded process of a hull. But I will add some eyewash slowly on occasions . I will give a shout out to Ken [Kennessee ] and a lot of positive feedback from his two seasons on the water that helped in the planning stage. This helped in some decision making in the hull tweaking that will make a positive impact in the completed hull layout down the road. And thanks to Alan and Graham for responding to many questions and listening to us for months on end to get us to this point.
  9. I purchased this in Aug, 2021 for a square stern canoe but will not be using it. Its never been in the water and only run for the start up. It has foward, neutral and reverse and has the shift lever on the front of the engine. It has a set up for remote fuel tank along with the built in fuel tank to choose from to use. I have the factory statement of origin for anyone that needs to get a title for it along with the original bill of sale. Sorry about the purple and white dots, thats just the flash issue. $1,100 located eastern North Carolina
  10. Sent you a mail,, have some track, sail brackets and nice small bronze cleats, just got to figure out how to get it to you
  11. All rvs have solar panels completely exposed to the elements. The little tear drop ones uses mostly portable suit case panels. The most economical direction is to go to Harbor Freight and get their 25 watt panel, which acts as a trickle charger and use a simple Rule bilge pump to a conventional and small 12 volt motorcycle battery. They come in AGM. This is the direction that is used on many wooden skiffs stored in the water, but with wet cell batteries. But the upgrade is nicer..
  12. I have set the rope in thickened epoxy with a few small wire brad or tack thru the rope on the edge to temporarily hold it in place. Dry fit the length of the rope before starting the job of course. While wet just cover the rope with more thickened epoxy and then work a layer of biaxal glass covered by a layer of finish cloth or a couple or three layers of finish cloth tape over the edge and shape the round using the uncured thickened epoxy and glass. With the glass overlaying onto the board, you will not have a problem with the edge, or moisture in the end grain even if you rub the glass over sandy or oyster bottoms. Just keep tabs on the edge from time to time. If you use a good primer over the glass work that will be hidden like Interprotect 2000, this further creates a bullet proof arrangement.
  13. IIRC Craig ? was involved there but I lost touch over the years with him. Its really amazing how many projects built with average plywood has surviced over the years. The older Luan back them was decent stock and worked for trailer projects if you would be mindful of any areas that may become an issue with dampness or checking. I seem to recall that project . Dang I am getting really old.
  14. Do not glass your plywood before gluing up your hull layers. And for sure don't use 5200 between the layers, which is and has been promoted by some rebuilders of older multi layer hulls. I think you are talking about using wetted out glass in lieu of mixing up cabosil and epoxy between the layers of plywood. I would ask Alan and Graham about that. That method has been used in the past on many one off cold mold hulls when the building method came about, even using chop matt and wet it out in hopes to avoid voids, and an easier method of glue up instead of all the mixing. But these days when using jigs and building boats created by designers, the hulls are fairer and the engineering is better for the minimum amount of added weight too. So the glue ups require less filler materials. You will end up with a much heavier boat , especially if you use biaxal and accomplish nothing really if you use finish cloth. Now I have used 403 fibers in areas that has more concave shapes instead of the cabosil. But as long as your fits in your layers are good, you should not need the 403, which is more dense. There are alternative methods of laminating layers of plywood to achieve a solid bond in lieu of using a bunch of screws and washers , a common practice. In the not so extreme flares in particular look up Raptor staple gun and plastic staples. They work really well in the small tumblehone area in the aft sections and in the bottom panels if you need to laminate layers. When the glue is cured, just knock off the extra if any and you are good to go. They save you tons of work in your finish section of your build. These will minimize your work on your final layer in the flatter areas. We also use golf tees to fill holes that has had the larger screws and washers You sanding is more uniform when sanding simular materials. The Raptor staples work in a simular way. . This gives you a cleaner finish of simular products under the glass to minimize some print thru that can happen when using thickened cabosil in the holes before glassing and possibly dished out areas around the harder areas of the cured glue and wood.. You can also skin over any compression areas with a mix of 406 and 410, . There will be some shrinking if you use more 410 from west system or glass beads in the mix. So let cure and check your areas before glassing. Do most of your fairing before your finish glass goes on.
  15. Its a shame that the Friday night chew and chat has been canceled. Heck all the folks still should put their order in and pick it up at the take out section and spread out at the creek. The fine family at the eatery has been hit hard like most of the other small businesses and their food is top shelf, especially their strombole [sp?]
  16. If I may be bold I would consider not using the plastic fuel tank. Aluminum coated with Coal tar epoxy or Interprotect 2000 works really well for longevity on the tanks. Beautiful job on laying the hull out and getting it to the rough in shape.
  17. FWIW or what you paid for it, when using fasteners to hold parts down in place while your glue dries, personally I use fine thread screws, which do not grab and hold onto thickened epoxy that's not only dried but cured solid before removing the screws and washers. In many cases they will wring off . If you see that you are having problems backing them back out, use a soldering iron on the head or a small propane torch for a few seconds to heat them up and normally they will come right out without a problem.
  18. The favorite fixall for trailer lights are the trailer upright guides with the lights at the top of them. the wiring junctions never hit saltwater. You can buy LED lights and guides. There are license plate brackets too in this option. https://www.amazon.com/boat-trailer-guide-lights/s?k=boat+trailer+guide+lights
  19. Well the Moc stern still will not have a lot of buoyancy. I left it long instead of cutting it back to the flatter region behind the back seat. I wanted to end up with enough room to stretch my arm to the tiller. I may install a pulley system on the handle area with a stick steering. Now that's going to some farmer rigging if that happens. I will be using a 2.5. But I plan on installing some foam under a false floor behind the rear seat after my first in water test. But along those lines I have a small cooler that fits nicely in the bow. So with block ice and some drinks, maybe some canned ice tea and my second non-paying passenger we can make the boat work for our creeker carried on a farmer designed canoe rack in the truck bed and across the cab.
  20. Well It sounded like you did not want to spend to get another trailer with related costs. But if all else fails go the Harbor Freight route, which converts to a great freshwater bunk trailer for about half the costs of an Ex Loader . The jet ski trailers work well too, which of course you being a man of experience will do a similar job even though the tongue is shorter than the boat trailers. FWIW, I have converted the Mocassin 2 to square stern canoe. I know, In know, "shiver me timbers"
  21. So are you implying that you don't think much of my mountaineer fix? But you can save your points to add to your handicap for the duck pin league. From the book by Jim Reed : To go around the horn in a square rigged ship is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. To do it more than once is the sign of real manliness or foolishness. I wouldn't want to do it even once. Jim Reed Author And for good measure here is one for you. This will provide you some varnishing music. https://gurdybird.bandcamp.com/album/different-ships-different-long-splices Let us know when you are venturing out to a campground with your vessel. We are looking for an excuse to go to the mountain top for some cooler weather and away from the herds in town.
  22. It looks like the front portion will fit between the sides of the current trailer. So Maybe add two new 2 x 6 carpet covered bunks to the trailer partially extending the flat bed, making a combination boat trailer and utility trailer. This lowers the location of the boat and install the winch to the front of the cross section of the trailer. All you also need to do is to install the two bunks on pivot pins at the bottom portion of trailer frame making this trailer like the older ones where the back portion operates on a pull pin. Of course the longer point would be on the forward section from the back of the trailer so that the bunks do not dig in as you back down to load. Just my thinking anyway, If you need the lights to be back further, then use the portable lights purchased from Harbor Freight or Walmart, which sells them locally mounted on a 2x4 and tie it to your boat's transom on the top ladder back rails
  23. Cool project and great work, All you need to help load that boat in the trailer is a galvanized pipe threaded at the end and end caps mounted on the back of the trailer using u-bolts at the end or a piece of metal with drilled holes so that the pipe can spin with caps and a pool noddle and you are all set up. If you want to get that "iron jib" out of your way and upgrade to a bigger one, let me know. I will offset your upgrade engine fund. Did you ever get rid of that canoe boat? If not let me know. I got rid of my inflatable and need something for the grandkids until they can get back into school in Aug.
  24. We sent an email to your listed email address.
  25. We have sent you an email to your listed email address in your ad posted in the classified section. If this is incorrect shoot me a pm with any updated information and we will reply.
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