Spindrift 9N build #1174

[Luke]

Hi everyone, this is my first post--I've been lurking here getting lots of good info as I build and finally have a few questions myself!

 

By now the boat is 3D and wired together. The hull, bulkheads, and transom all seem to fit well, and the boat has no twist in it that I can discern. Measurements from the peak of the bow to the corners of the transom are 109" +/- an 1/8", and sighting down the centerline, the tips of the nesting bulkheads "disappear" below the transom at the same time.

 

 

I've made a number of spanish windlasses to pull the sides together between the forward and mid bulkhead, to pull out the 1/2" gap between the bottom and the bottom of the nesting bulkheads, to pull the forward bulkhead forward onto its lines, and lastly to try to flatten the bottom seam between bulkheads slightly to close a gap in the bottom panels.

 

The question is how much of a gap along the keel seam is acceptable? It goes from no gap at the transom and widens to about 1mm around the nesting bulkheads, and up to a maximum of about 3mm halfway between the forward and mid bulkheads. I think the epoxy fillets will cover it just fine, but I just want to make sure it's not a symptom of a larger problem.

 

Also, the plans don't really give dimensions to make a breasthook or quarter knees--do I just make these to fit the shape of the hull as it stands now? The instructions say the breasthook (included with the kit I suppose) is important to ensure the bow takes the correct shape--so what gives? The sheer lines look nice.

 

Lastly, I centered the kerf gap of the nesting bulkhead on the "center frame" lines running down the sides--is that correct?

 

Thanks!

 

 

 

Additional photos

 

Looking aft:

 

 

chine

 

bow and gap

 

forward bulkhead

[Designer]

Hi Luke,

 

Welcome to the forum.

 

Pulling from the sides will not help with closing the keel gap. I would use gravity. If you shift the forward cradle to the position of the widest gap it should close the gap. Make sure that the keel line is taking all of the weight. If it does not close all of the way immediately, give it some time. The nesting bulkheads may need trimming by a mm or two if they are too tight.

 

Yes the bulkhead line on the side plan is the kerf line between the nesting bulkheads.

 

You should have gotten full size shapes for the knees. If you did not, you can email me.

[Dnjost]

Checking hull twist can be tricky.  A simple tool is to lay long straightedges fore and aft and sighting from a few feet back to look at the gap left and right between the boards.  

[Luke]

Thanks, I'll try that. 

 

After some more thought, it seems like if the hull is glued together now, twist might be induced once the tension from the winches is released. I guess it should be twist free under gravity alone.

[roam]

Too close the gap on my kit I found it easiest to put the twist of the wires on the inside of the boat and pulling up when tightening. I had a gap similar to yours which I was able to close completely with this method. I did add additional wires between the ones shown on your pictures.

 

In case my post wasn't clear you can see the additional wires I used to close the gap in my attached picture.

 

[Luke]

I'm nearly finished and now wondering about the location of the screw-out deck plates.

 

I bought a couple of plates that are 5-7/16 (6 3/4 overall) and would like to install the on top of the rear seat/floatation tanks. My initial thought was that they'd be more accessible for storing small accessories on the top rather than on the side of the tank. The top would also accommodate the larger size plates due to the internal supports. Do the plans specify the side and the relatively small diameter for structural reasons, or is the top acceptable?

[Don Silsbe]

Luke-  I just stumbled upon this post.  How’d your boat turn out?

[Scott Dunsworth]

All plywood and wood in general flex's different, I would adjust to what pleases the eye and go with it. Your build looks Very clean and well done, Just keep at it.