lewisboats

Please don't do that...the designer earns a living off of his or her designs. Each set of plans is a licence to build (1) one boat unless otherwise stated by the designer. Building a boat and then selling or even giving away the plans so that another boat can be made is considered morally wrong and tatamount to theft. The only way a plan should be shared is if the design is offered free ( and so stated by the designer) but it should still be credited as his or her design. Plans that have been purchased but NOT built can be resold (but shouldn't be for more than was paid for them) or given away without guilt. Steve Lewis an amateur designer of free (so far) designs.

I think you are down to an "either/or" situation rather than an "and" one. I just ordered the book... and another: "Sailboats you can build". They are still both available used on amazon. Steve

I love it!

Look for someone supplying MDO in 3/8 or someone with marine 9mm (which is near to a whisker 3/8") Steve (edited to add: I did a google on "marine plywood in dallas tx" and this is the first of many that came up: http://www.dixieply.com/dallas.shtml )

[1mg]http://www.angelfire.com/ego/lewisboatworks/Images/Picture3.JPG[/1mg] {1 is subbed for i so you can see the line} OK...it works here. Sometimes it is easier just to use the basic html...this one is easy. If the picture is already on the web type in [1mg]the_url[/1mg] making sure there are no spaces and substituting an i for the 1(see exapmle above). Simple as that. If you don't know the exact address of the picture right click on it and go to properties. There will be a line that has the exact address...just hilight and right click and select copy. Paste this between the pairs of square brackets. Steve

Put some holes in the bed to hold bunks with pegs on them...this will lessen the friction and allow you to simply slide the boat on and off. Steve

looking for?....length?, beam?, weight (ish) Steve

Marble beach campground on Sprit lake Iowa Site number 5. I will be there tomorrow afternoon sometime. I don't get off of work until 7 am and I still need to load up and catch a bit of a nap before the 2 hr drive. STeve

A circular saw...good for straight in thick and thin materials and shallow curves in thin materials...the thinner the smaller the radius. I use this for almost all my 1/4" - 3/8" stuff. A cordless drill is a must... I use a cheap grinder and flap wheels to remove material quickly and a random orbit sander for the rest. The grinder needs a light touch and a bit of practice but it is a fantastic time saver. A table saw (or table top saw) is good for trim work and longer stuff but unless you have a big one that can support a whole sheet of ply it isn't practical for big pieces of ply. I have built more than 8 boats with just these tools...plus a plain $25 plane and a gazillion clamps, chip brushes, shop towels, yougurt cups or something similar, thin strips of scrap wood for mixers, plastic spoons and all the rest of the consumables. Steve

PC 101...minimize everything until you get to your desktop...right click and go to Properties in the pop up menu. Click on the settings tab and look at the slider bar. It will tell you what resolution you are running. The higher the numbers the smaller your icons and writing but the more that fits on the screen at once. It will probably say 800x600. If your video card and monitor are capable you can slide it up one more notch to 1024x768. This will cause the icons to get a bit smaller but you will see more of things without the slider bars. You can make the icons larger too but that is a later lesson . Steve PS: this all presumes you are running a form of windows...post 3.10

What resolution are you running your screens in...the picture is 800x600 and your browser takes up some so the min resolution you would need to see the whole picture is 1024x768 but probably 1200 x1024 or near there would be better. Steve-

I will be at Sprirt lake weekend after this coming one. Marble beach same as usual. I know it is awful late to remind everyone but it kept slipping my mind. There are usually open camping spots so if anyone wants to show up I am by the launch ramp (site 5 ) Steve

I usually use the smallest wire ties possible to hold...4" for the most part. You just nip them off flush and fill the rest of the hole (1/8" or so) and away you go. Won't damage your tools either ;D Steve

Yep...that is a leeboard. It works best to have the CE of the sail round about the aft edge of the leeboard +/_ an inch or two. Steve

What kind of fin are you going to use? Daggerboard? Leeboard? Centerboard or full keel? Steve

well...we're looking at 1" thick, 20 plys for a 9.9 ft boat...it should hold up. Thanks for the info... it was about what I expected but I couldn't find any real hard numbers in the plans and books that I have. Steve

What are we looking at for clearance min/max between daggerboard and case sides? I laminated up 4 layers of 6mm plus I am going to coat it a couple of times plus paint...so say 25.4 mm or 1 in total. What kind of clearance should I use between the DB and the case walls...1/16"...1/8"...friction fit? Steve

Just a little trick when using bottles in the northern climes...Put the bottles in the freezer, open for about 15 min or enough time to equalize temps, then seal them. At any temperature above the original freezer's temp the bottles will be over pressurized and it will take at least 15 deg less for them to start collapsing. It doesn't really matter too much until the bottles go thru repeated freezing and expanding cycles...then they can start to crack. They will also want to part company with any glue holding them together. Steve

Thats the copper in it...just like galvanic corrosion (because it is), the zinc is the cathode and the metal salts in the wood is the anode...or maybe the other way around...I never can remember. : Steve

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/wppages/sprucesparstock.php East coast, West coast and Ontario stores. The stuff is aircraft quality so it should do for a mast. You would probably need to laminate but you can get pretty long lengths. Not real cheap. http://www.nswoods.net/Custom%20Milling.htm These guys could do up whatever for you...you would have to contact them. http://www.ravenwoodservices.com/ Same here... http://www.westwindhardwood.com/price_boat.php Once again... http://www.lumber-for-sale.com/ Scroll down for Sitka Spruce There is a special note about mast and spar timber up nearer the top of the page. Steve

I think my boss would be quite piqued if I went to bed 2 hours before getting off shift :-\ ;D

Thanks much see you there Steve

I'm thinking that self righting needs be a relationship to how easily is is to knock it down...a narrow deep boat is more easily knocked down (on its side)than a wider shallower and stiffer boat (for the same displacement). It is thusly more easily righted too...but the trade offs must be taken into account...less space, a much easier roll, etc. For every mise there is a compromise...such is the nature of a boat! Steve

hey Bill...put me down for a tent spot Friday and Saturday night Steve Lewis

Rob Rohde-Szudy built one...below are a bunch of articles he did for Duckworks. You can meet him usually at Rend lake 2nd weekend of June and possibly at Lake Pepin 1st weekend of June. If you want to email him send me your email address and I'll pass it along. http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/08/columns/rob/articles.htm Steve Edit: click on the mailto link at the top of the page to email him.