lewisboats

I found the original manual online and also tuning tips from the racing folks...thanks much for the info.

I just got it home today...talked to the guy while I was picking it up. There are no turnbuckles...just a tang with holes in it so tuning is in increments. Previous owner used it with just the slightest bit of slack...I'll try it that way first. This seems to be the majority consensus from the various forum that I have asked on. Most just want me to get it out on the water.

I just scored a Barnett Butterfly for $150 complete. The only problems I could see were a cracked tiller, some blistering on the deck and a bit of cracking in the gelcoat around the base of the daggerboard case. I suspect someone nailed something at speed with the DB...but there is no damage to the board which leads me to suspect that it might not be original. The sail, standing rigging, even the running rigging is all in good shape with some extras thrown in. Looking on the net I found that a new one costs around $4500. I also see used ones out there around the same price as what I paid but with significantly more work needed on them. I think I did pretty good...even if I eventually only use the parts off of it. Having never sailed a boat with shrouds and a deck stepped aluminum mast...just what sort of tension should I be putting on the shrouds when I step the mast? Looks like this (this isn't the one I bought though)

Yep...one of the problems of Gloss...shows everything you don't want it to. Kinda like spandex....... Semi gloss is much safer...satin even better. Flat works the charm for wood butchers who don't know sand paper from toilet paper...like me :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Um...Er....right! yeah!... quick on the water...yeah...that's what I meant. :???: :shock: Gotta admit though...Since my vacation in June...I have had 1 day off in July, one in Sep, one in Nov, X-mas Eve, and one in March. Most of the time I get home and end up sitting down in front of the 'puter and other than the fridge beer run once an hour...there I stay planted for 2-4 hours until bed time. I keep telling myself I'll have the energy tomorrow...or the weather isn't right or something else. It would have been relatively quickly built if I had more than a dozen days off a year. I even got rid of cable because I watched it once in the 7 months I had it. Most of the shows I watch are in the evening when I work so I just download them instead.

As a former computer tech and current boat builder and amateur designer...I heartily agree!!

Figures...just because I like it it has to be a PITA!

I tend to like BoatDesign.net's software...it allows decent sized attachments along with html to insert pictures etc. I do like the extra smilies over here though :BIG:

Well...the first layer of the mahogany I wanted to use soaked fine and bent well... the next soaked too much and stuck in the tube. Then the blade I was using in my jig saw to cut it out with broke...and I didn't have another. I gave up in disgust. Today I picked up some more blades so I shall finishing cutting my $20 pipe to get the $5.00 of wood out. Charlie Brown Syndrome strikes again! I shall pick up a 3" section and try again.

Well...the Scow emerged from hibernation today...mounted the rudder just to do SOMETHING with it. I still have the combings to do plus finish the daggerboard and fill/sand/coat/paint. Also on deck are the spars to fab and the daggerboard wedges/fillers. The mast has the halyard sheave installed but I think I made the hole too big...the rope comes out if there is slack. I will have to fix it with a shim or two to reduce the space available. Here is how it stands now: http://www.angelfire.com/ego/lewisboatworks/Stuff/Scowbuild/Emergence2.JPG[/img] http://www.angelfire.com/ego/lewisboatworks/Stuff/Scowbuild/Emergence3.JPG[/img]

Thinner strips...but wider. Found 2 that were consecutive slices so the grain is about as bookmatched as possible. Soaked in hot water for an hour...bent really well and evenly...so hopefully will work out. I have 8 others to choose from so these will be the outside layer of a 2 layer lamination. That will give me a 3/8" outwale rather than 1/4"...bigger is better I guess. http://www.angelfire.com/ego/lewisboatworks/Stuff/Designs/Tadpole/XSoaked4.JPG[/img] I think I should have done it this way to start with...

Well...this one went 50/50...one had too much grain run out and cracked across the outside face. I left it to dry but it doesn't have the shape I need. The curve is too much at the cracked area and the ends are too straight. I might just say Eff it and keep the test strip as one side and the other darker one as the other. I'll go check to see if there are anymore dark ones left at the store before gluing anything. The two problems I have with the test strip is that 1. it is significantly lighter than the other side and 2. It has slightly rounded corners on one side...go figure that that is the side that would have to be against the ply whereas the other strip has the rounded edges outside where they belong. Charlie Brown Syndrome strikes again... :shock: :(

Sorry...my mistake :-? Got the real thing soaking now...hopefully I don't do something to screw it up. The two nicest and darkest pieces are the ones I want to use for the outwales. For any further updates...see the " http://www.messing-about.com/forums/index.php?topic=7211.0" thread... This one has served it's purpose so time for the archives.

Wasn't that supposed to be Steve? By the way...it turned out perfect...just a tad more curve than needed but it straightened out with only the slightest of pressure and kept the shape. Now to do it for real...so I'll probably screw it up :?

Test Successful! I soaked for about 36 hrs but it didn't do a whole lot. Soaked in hot water for an hour or so and voila...much more limber. I'll let it dry and see how much of a set it will take. Even if it springs back 50%...that should be just about right for what I need. http://www.angelfire.com/ego/lewisboatworks/Stuff/Designs/Tadpole/XSoaked2.JPG[/img]

Barry...the strips you are looking at ARE 1/4" thick...1 1/4" wide. The wood seems to be able to take the bend...especially if I start at one end and clamp it often. It is just too strong for the 3 mm ply edge and the ply is more willing to comply to the strip than the other way around. I picked up 2 5' 2" sections of PVC (the 10'er wouldn't fit into my station wagon) and a coupler and a couple of clean outs. They are assembled and curing on the porch now. Whew... that solvent sure stinks...glad I did it outside. My plan is to put a test piece in and let it soak in water for 24 hours then empty and pour in boiling water a couple of times. Meantime I'll make a form to bend it to so as to try and get it to "Set" somewhat and ease the tension so when I clamp it to the shear it won't be so hard on the ply curve. Oh...and the shear when the panel was flat is virtually straight so there is no true compound curve...perhaps just a smidge of twist though. The rest of you guys are just speaking Latin to me

OK...here is the pictorial skinny. This is the wood I want to bend. http://www.angelfire.com/ego/lewisboatworks/Stuff/Designs/Tadpole/XMahog2.JPG[/img] http://www.angelfire.com/ego/lewisboatworks/Stuff/Designs/Tadpole/XMahog3.JPG[/img] And this is what it needs to bend to...without distorting the shape that you see here. Dry it wants to flatten out the curves. The sides are only 3 mm ply so the solid wood is twice the thickness of the base ply http://www.angelfire.com/ego/lewisboatworks/Stuff/Designs/Tadpole/XStanding1.JPG[/img] http://www.angelfire.com/ego/lewisboatworks/Stuff/Designs/Tadpole/XStanding2.JPG[/img] So far I am leaning towards getting a long piece of PVC pipe, some caps and then fill with wood and water to let soak then fill with boiling water for a while before trying to bend it. I will make a form to bend it to that has a bit more cure to it than the boat sides so as to allow for some spring back. It doesn't have to be exact...just so it doesn't have so much tension in it that it straightens the curves out. I will hopefully be using the darker ones (left and closeup) for the outside and two of the lighter ones on the inside. My last resort would be to thickness plane it down to 1/8" and laminate...but I can't get all the same color so it would be funky (er) looking. Steve

How well does Mahogany steam bend...and don't ask what kind...I don't know. It is Menard's mahogany trim...1 1/4" x 1/4" thick. The stuff has too much tension in it and is distorting the shape of my shear so I need to steam it or soak in hot water or something to get it to bend easier so I can get a preset bend in it. I'll post a pic of it manana as I am just about to go out the door. Steve

Did up the other side yesterday... And I started on making the frame. I think it will be the only one I will need... http://www.angelfire.com/ego/lewisboatworks/Stuff/Designs/Tadpole/XFrame1.JPG[/img] A close up of the frame joint... http://www.angelfire.com/ego/lewisboatworks/Stuff/Designs/Tadpole/XFrame2.JPG[/img] I also started framing the transom... It took some shaping to get it to fit the shape of the fillet...hence the grinder with the flap disk in the first frame picture. Very easy to remove only what you need and easy to maneuver...like a paint brush. http://www.angelfire.com/ego/lewisboatworks/Stuff/Designs/Tadpole/XTransomFrame.JPG[/img] I don't have clamps deep enough to get to it so I through screwed from outside...The pads ensure I only have little holes to fill instead of big dents AND little holes...Saved me from spitting the edge of the ply too (like one of the pads) http://www.angelfire.com/ego/lewisboatworks/Stuff/Designs/Tadpole/XTransomFrame1.JPG[/img]

76 degrees and BEAUTIFUL...I'm gonna pay for it tonight but I had to stay up and enjoy. Glued on one side of the inwale spacers (3/4" x 1 1/4" x 1/4") 2 3/4" spacing between. Took 13 all told with allowance for knees and breasthook. Moved to the front porch for a while as the next 3 days are supposed to be 70-80 degrees. http://www.angelfire.com/ego/lewisboatworks/Stuff/Designs/Tadpole/Clamp3.JPG[/img] http://www.angelfire.com/ego/lewisboatworks/Stuff/Designs/Tadpole/Clamp2.JPG[/img]

Here is a bit better picture. Thank you very much...I think that is the most complimentary comment you have ever made concerning one of my doodles :grin: :grin:. Just so I am clear though...by firm entry are you referring to the transition from bottom to side or are you referring to the fat forefoot/chin or are you looking at the plan view and seeing then entry is a wider angle than the exit?

Think of it as creating rounded and curved panels for the S&G panels instead of a single sheet of ply as a panel. Not much difference once you glass the strips together.

Shaping the bottom of strips over a simple mold and then glassing (common in canoe building) with the side stitched, filleted and glued to the bottom after it is molded. Additional support molded in with seating, thwarts and bulkheads filleted in after the sides are stitched and filleted on. Exterior seams on each side glassed. Standard stitch and glue techniques except for the construction of the bottom.

What do you think? Strip bottom to get a nice rounded hull to present to the water but a stitched ply side panel for a bit easier and quicker (and perhaps stronger) finish. 18' 4" loa with a strip bottom but solid ply sides. Reduction in surface area over stitched ply bottom is around 3 sq ft. Strips of Cedar or ripped ply...Cedar being preferable for weight. A light glassing (4oz) of the bottom for structural and abrasion reasons. A row boat with a transom for an electric trolling motor boost if the old arms (or more likely back) putter out or the desire is for fish rather than exercise. Design weight is around 475 lbs but the boat should end up around 200-220 lbs if built with care and attention to detail and weight. Beam is 45" so you might want to add short outriggers for longer oars. Beam on the waterline is about 33.5" for a nice smooth water flow in all directions. Stability on the other hand isn't the greatest...so some care would be needed when landing that large mouth or striper but a net would do wonders in helping. A design for one hefty or two lighter persons to enjoy a speedy row in.

Started on the other side today. Almost twisted up...was in such a hurry I mixed up the goo before masking off the fillet lines. Had to chuck the stuff into the freezer and lay out the tape. I was going to pick up a roll of 1" but forgot so I was stuck using the 2" again and obviously it didn't cut/peel very well. Anyways...I was going to tell you that yesterday I used a total of 21 teaspoons of epoxy to fillet and tape. Today I had a bit left over from the 9 used for the filleting (I think I used a bit more filler/thickener) so back into the freezer it goes. I have a 50/50 chance it will still be usable tomorrow.