lewisboats

I got Vacationer and PC plans from them last summer-ish...can't remember exactly...could have been early fall. Steve

Awsome...I was hoping I didn't have to make a choice about which one to go to. Steve

Three!

Hey Bob!...what are the dates for the Messabout? I have this nasty feeling that that Pepin and Rend lake are going to be the same weekend. Steve

A general rule of thumb is that the oarlocks should be positioned using the following guidelines. Center the upper arm of the rower vertically in the middle of the body's side and measure the distance (edited to add: from the tip of the elbow...) to the center of the side of the palm of the hand. Use this # to measure from the center of the seating area of the thwart aft of the thwart and place the oarlock there. This approximates the center of the stroke...and usually there are a few inches of forward/aft room on the thwart to position the derrier to find most comfortable spot (and adjust for different people). Having cleats on the sole/floor of the boat for the heels is important so you are not relying on friction to brace the feet and you can exert thrust and brace yourself via the leg muscles instead of just using the lats and arms. Steve

If you dig deeper...I think you will find that the home built boat is supposed to be built by the registerer. If it is built by someone else and purchased...it is a manufactured boat. In my state not only do you need to have a MIC to generate your HIN...you must supply a Certificate of Origin to the purchaser, along with a bill of sale before the customer can register the boat...and all boats have to be registered. I went this route and subsequently have abandoned it as a money loser (for me, not for everyone). I still get away with using my own HINs for myself by calling the (single, one off) boats I build as prototypes and test designs. It saves me from having to get DNR to examing the boat before I can license it. Obviously...if someting is wrong with it I won't be suing myself Steve

You can do it if you are prudent. DO NOT fill the thing to the brim. It is not designed to contain a thousand + lbs of water. Put only the weight of water that the boat will ultimately displace into it. Say the max displacement is 400 lbs...only put 50 gals (preferably less) of water into the boat and tilt the boat around to see if it leaks. Is the boat sealed completely on the inside?...if not you may be introducing water into endgrain of any exposed wood...not a good thing. Make sure your interior is sealed properly before filling. Personally I would look for a way to use a pool or something to test it in...someone you know perhaps? Steve

edited...worked this time steve

Seeing as you are using freeship, go into Project in the menu and select Linesplan...in the button bar there is one that shows a bow shape with port and starbord...this puts both sides to the hull, then to the right there is a button for saving the drawing in a .bmp format. Open it in paint and save as a jpg and post it. If you are using Delftship, the linesplan button is in the second row down on the left, second to the right...looks like the splash for Delftship in green and white. The same buttons apply once the Linesplan window is open. Steve

Any chance of catching a gander at the LinesPlan? Steve

No...I think they are still on my camera stick. I will look when I find the camera.

yeah...but YOU needed it....sniff...sniff...cough! You think folks would want to use the lakes we found for next year or should I stick with Spirit? Steve

Good book... I have it in front of me. Steve

'Bout time you baptized that thing properly ;D Steve

Well...lets see...I need to finish the 3 other boats that are in progress, do some repairs on another, find the time to do that working 2 jobs and...oh yeah...find a different place to build because it is hard to build a 20 ft boat in a 16 ft garage. Seriously...It would be years before I could attempt to do something this large. I did do a little more fiddling (I constantly tinker with my designs until I get the urge to do something different). I took the cabin side from the shear to the top and angled it inwards more. I think this would reduce the apparent windage because of the increased angle and better airflow. The width of the actual top was reduce to increase the angle but the height remains the same. I also think with the right paint color choices (emphasize the shearline, darker hull and lighter cabin color) the height of the cabin could be de-emphasized. Accomodations to 4 people for a few days (double V berth up forward and two quarter berths extending under the cockpit seats), a small galley on one side with a two seat eating area on the other. A table could be set up so you have a dining area aft of the Vee, sitting on the bunks. A table could also be set up in the cockpit for all four to dine at the same table under the stars or under an awning set up over the cockpit. I think a couple of people could be comfortable for two or three weeks provided land fall was made a couple of times during the stretch. I expect wheel steering could be set up like a Weekender, at the aft of the cockpit but I would not want an inboard rudder...prefering something off of the transom. This could be a candidate for partial to full Stitch and glue or tack and tape construction if desired. Steve

This is a cross between a Dovekie and a this and a that and another thing. I suppose I'll call it my own...so it is dubbed FuzzyLogic 1.0: The idea is to have a decent cabin space (the forward 11 ft of the boat in a raised sheer cabin) with enough headroom to sit upright (up to 5 ft) and plenty of beam (8 ft on a 20 ft hull) for room and stability, an easy to build chined hull and an easy to use Gaff rig with or without a mizzen (in a yawl config). The boat should have enough displacement (3000 lbs) for good cruising (combo of up to 1000 lbs water and lead ballast on bilge keels for level grounding) to make it to the Bahamas with minimal draft for exploring but decent stability via form and weight placement. The boat would be trailerable on a modified boat trailer. It has a Vee hull with 2 chines and a small keel/Skeg augmenting the bilge keels. With a rather easy motion it will sail best heeling somewhat with one of the keels well in the water. The drawing doesn't show the keels... because I haven't added them yet and the sail area and profile may change in the future. Steve

Nope...nothing for sale or sail here . Although quite a few boats I have designed have been built...not one has been paid for. I just enjoy noodling and working with obscure ideas...so calm thyself and have one on me. Yeah...the link was originally brought up by Bob...tho in my usual very tired and beer befuddled state I tend to forget these things. Early altzheimers I think. Steve

Has anyone ever checked out this group/site/forum? http://www.aroundinten.com/forum/index.php Doesn't that sound intriguing? To me...I am most interested in the design aspects. How do you get decent speed out of something only 10 ft long while at the same time making the hull habitable and capable of carrying the necessary supplies. So far I have 4 different designs/evolutions and I still am not fully satisfied...but getting there. With the criteria being fixed...most of the designs are similar in shape and aspect...so it is going to come down to the details, subtilties of desgn (and of course the skill of the captain) which are going to win the race...and the shape the captain is in at the end. Seeing as most if not all of us are not going to participate physically in the race let us play with the design aspects of the boat and perhaps the provisioning and equipping of said design (s). Here are the 4 I have been working on...evolving if you will. The first was just a quicky but it was lacking headroom. The second added the headroom but had too much displacement and too much beam. The third is a bit skinnier and quite a bit lighter...displacing only a ton (2 dsiplaced 1.35 tons). The fourth firms up the bilges and eases the buttox lines to help increase speed, narrows the keel a bit for less resistance and drops another .05 tons displacement. The next one I am thinking of tuning the bottom of the keel as it has deepened by 3" since the second design increasing the draft. I could get a bit more surface area reduction by trimming it. Steve

two 6 year olds maybe...nothing bigger (certainly not my large carcass +)

I don't know about nuts but something appeals. Maybe the notoriety or maybe the challenge... things that haven't been done (that lone individuals can do) are getting fewer and fewer. I wouldn't mind trying if I had the finances to do it...heck of a way to see the world! I don't know...having a large support vessel seems to be cheating a bit. To me...this is a one on one type thing...granted its likely to get you killed but then again...nobody lives forever and going out on your own terms is better (to me) than lingering on some life support machinery. Steve

Seeing as how I think only the hull lengths count I would put a fold up (yes UP like a jack knife) or fixed bow sprit so I could have a bit of a Jib and use a high peaked Gaff rig to get the maximum amount of sail and still get a bit of lead to the CE over the CLR. Sufficient canvas is a must to get this pig thru the water but 2 or even 3 reefs would be needed ( or extra storm sails) to handle all conditions. Steve

Hey...I can design one of those too! FreeShip tells me I displace 2800 lbs at the shown draft of 39" with a length of 10 ft and a beam of 5'9". depth from top of cabin roof to bottom of keel is 7' 1.5" with an interior maximum headroom of 4' 10" (sole to cabin roof). Hang 500 lbs of lead on the bottom of the keel and a hull wt of 350 lbs and you have 1950 lbs of "stuff" you can carry...'course I don't see WHERE you would put 1950 lbs of "stuff" but that is just a minor glitch : Estimated gonads to the wall speed of 3.5 kts...probably more like 2.5-3 kts and you will be spending many moons doing a round the world in this baby...and boy...will you stink at the end. ;D Steve

Up on the Plans page of Duckworks Magazine ( http://www.duckworksbbs.com/plans.htm ) is a design for a couple of utitlity skiffs (Motor version/ Row Version) with instructions to build in either Stitch and Glue or Glue and Screw (potentially 4 different boats!!!) for each version. Plans are free for the downloading (BIG file!). Please check them out and give me some feedback...especially if you decide to build one ;D ;D . Steve PS: DuckSkiff is the one you want.

Nice colors Bob...but then I have always been partial to forest green. Don't leave her in the sun bottom up tho...it will soften the epoxy underneath which might get gouged or something. Steve

I thought of that myself...they were just 2" black phosphate drywall screws. I may increase the angle of the front of the keel and if I do it would bypass most of them anyways. If and when I get some time away from my 75 hour work weeks I'll pull it out and draw some more profiles to see what I like. Steve