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Everything posted by lewisboats

  1. Sure looks better than plain old flat sheets of ply
  2. Why would you need a new axle? Just switch the wheels out with larger ones. Wally world has 12's in both 4 bolt and 5 bolt and you will probably need to tweak the fenders up a bit.
  3. Well I did quite a few mods to this one as I built it. I added about 1 1/2" of rocker aft, I installed a daggerboard instead of the leeboards, I widened the stern by 3 or 4" (I forget) and the bow by 2" and I changed the rig to a balanced lug of 75 sq ft. It really zipps along, planes easily but isn't so good after a knock down. Too much cockpit. I am going to add a bulkhead and deck to the after part of the cockpit to give it more buoyancy there. The front 4+ ft is buoyancy chamber also. Here are a few pics:
  4. here are a few places that deal with boatbuilding woods...the ones that have PW sell plywood. You could also try a contractors lumberyard and see if they can get you Plyfloor underlayment in 4x8 sheets. It is baltic birch with 5 plies, no voids and exterior glue. Pretty good stuff really and about as rot resistant as occume...which is to say not very. It is a bit heavy...around the same as hydrotek meranti plywood. Caledonia - Kettle Moraine Hardwoods, 195 S 27th, 414/835 9212 - L (4-00) Green Lake - Norton Boat Works, 535 Commercial Av, 54941 414/294 6813 - L, PW Hartford - Kettle Moraine Hardwoods, 5261 Aurora Rd, 53027, 414/644 8119 - L (native & mahog.)(4-00) Madison - McCormick Lumber, 3156 Milwaukee St, 53714 608/244 4741 - L, PW Plum City - Grange Hall Hardwoods, Inc., W2326 US Hwy 10, 54761, 715-647-4544 - L
  5. Have it...read it along with most of his others.
  6. So what do you do before you empty the rum? Or is that part of the departure procedures
  7. New coat of many colors... Finally got the graphics on the Lake Scow that I built just about the way I want them. Once when I turned around and saw it suddenly it struck me as it looked a little like a USAF Thunderbird so I am considering that for the name...unless someone has any better inspirations. I also considered Liberty and Old Glory but T-Bird is the front runner right now. Oh...and yes...there are 50 stars. I wanted to put one extra right at the tip of the blue (PR?) but its 50 for now.
  8. You know... if you wave a steak under a dog's nose enough you'll drive him crazy...
  9. You don't really want to mix Kero and epoxy...leaves a nasty oily film on things and interferes with the epoxy curing properly. Propane and a tent to confine the space needed to heat...or electric and the same tent. Electric would probably be the cheapest and the safest.
  10. Count me in...and my son too if things don't go awry. Steve PS. Oh and Merry Christmas to you too.
  11. Two things with red oak...it sucks up water unlike white or live oak and the weight aloft. Make sure you seal the wood VERY well. You will also likely experience a bit more tenderness in the boat with that heavy a wood for your mast and spars. I too like the looks of the Weekender/Vacationer...although I have reservations about that extremely shallow keel and leeway.
  12. Oops...sorry. I didn't have time to read all the previous messages and I just assumed. Made an a$$ out of me anyways.
  13. A quick google came up with this: http://www.shopperschoice.com/item_name_Electronic-Specialties-Digital-Clamp-On-Tachometer_item_371483.html?source=froogle
  14. I believe there are some tachs available with a clamp on lead... Clamp on to the #1 wire and select the # of cyls.
  15. I would like some informed opinions and CONSTRUCTIVE criticism on the following set of drawings. No it is not a "design" in the sense that I am going to go out and build it tomorrow but it IS an excercise. I have not had much experience with multi-hulls (except my noodled canu) so I would like some feedback on the various performance aspects between the two hull shapes, sponson/ama positions (too deep/not deep enough, too far back/forward etc), cockpit location, choice of rig etc. I would also like an explanation of WHY you think what you think about it and WHY your proposed solution should be used and to what benefit. Frankly I don't care if someone thinks it is ugly...that has nothing to do with the performance so is irrelevant. I would like to thank one and all who reply for thier input. I was looking at the Triak design ( http://www.triaksports.com/paddling/ ) and thinking that that design going to the EC would be rather uncomfortable to use over an extended period and perhaps I might give a try at one that I might be more willing to use. I oriented it more towards the sailing aspect and a bit less the paddling side. There are two iterations for consideration here...a shallow Vee version and a Flat bottomed version. For all practical purposes the two hulls are near identical but I actually think the Vee'd version would be as easy to build and with the filleted vee running the lenght of the middle...actually stiffer. First the Vee version which I originally drew. The hull would be a composit of build methods...the bottom would be of 4mm ply, the chine strake would be of 2-3mm and the sides and most of the deck would be SOF to reduce weight. The sponsons would be of 2 or 3 mm ply bottoms and SOF for the rest. Framing would be of cut out plywood joined by Cedar Stringers...typical SOF style. The boat would be built top down so the bottom would be stitched and filleted to the lowest stringer after the skin was attached. This should provide a light stiff structure that has a bit more resistance to sub surface nasties like coral. The cockpit is significantly larger and deeper than the Triak and in wet weather could use a skirt to keep water out. The boat is wider and would be correspondingly a bit more difficult to paddle but...with a removable seat and a good bed roll to pad the bottom there would be sufficient room to sleep comfortably nestled in the hull under a small boom cover or simply a tarp. In order to keep the boat innards open, a single high aspect pivoting leeboard would be used for lateral resistance (heel would not be much of a factor so a single board should suffice). Steering could be foot operated, push/pull operated or hand operated via a handle bar affair mounted at the forward edge of the cockpit and cabled to the rudder quadrant. For sail power and ability to handle spars easily I propose either a form of Gunter rig or perhaps a high peaked Sprit or Lug sail and a fractional Jib. The mast should not exceed 12 ft in length and would be stepped on the deck, mounted on a ball and socket with a forstay and shrouds. The forstay should be led back to a small winch near the cockpit so the rig can be lowered without having to try and get forward (not really practical). The sponsons would either unbolt or fold up...depending on how stiff the support arms needed to be to stave off twisting in a seaway although the actual CB of each is near the middle of the arm/sponson joint area. The drawing is crude and the actual connection would span from the edge of the sponson to the centerline. Also...there is no top to the sponsons in the drawing...obviously there would be in reality. Design length : 16.878 [ft] Length over all : 17.375 [ft] Design beam : 3.020 [ft] Beam over all : 8.750 [ft] Design draft : 0.375 [ft] Midship location : 8.439 [ft] Water density : 63.989 [lbs/ft3] Appendage coefficient : 1.0000 Volume properties: Displaced volume : 7.917 [ft3] Displacement : 0.226 [tons] 505 lbs in salt Total length of submerged body : 16.125 [ft] Total beam of submerged body : 8.713 [ft] Block coefficient : 0.1503 Prismatic coefficient : 0.7419 Vert. prismatic coefficient : 0.5968 Wetted surface area : 42.697 [ft2] Longitudinal center of buoyancy : 6.380 [ft] Longitudinal center of buoyancy : -12.767 [%] Vertical center of buoyancy : 0.249 [ft] Midship properties: Midship section area : 0.662 [ft2] Midship coefficient : 0.2026 Waterplane properties: Length on waterline : 16.125 [ft] Beam on waterline : 8.713 [ft] Waterplane area : 35.376 [ft2] Waterplane coefficient : 0.2518 Waterplane center of floatation : 6.451 [ft] Entrance angle : 11.861 [degr.] Transverse moment of inertia : 56.680 [ft4] Longitudinal moment of inertia : -1429.1 [ft4] Initial stability: Transverse metacentric height : 7.408 [ft] Longitudinal metacentric height : -180.26 [ft] Lateral plane: Lateral area : 4.118 [ft2] Longitudinal center of effort : 7.745 [ft] Vertical center of effort : 0.224 [ft] And here is the Flat bottomed version...another 95 lbs displacement for the same draft but I really don't know if it is needed. Unless you are carrying a lot of dense stuff, there isn't really a whole lot of volume for the extra weight. Design length : 16.878 [ft] Length over all : 17.375 [ft] Design beam : 3.020 [ft] Beam over all : 8.750 [ft] Design draft : 0.375 [ft] Midship location : 8.439 [ft] Water density : 63.989 [lbs/ft3] Appendage coefficient : 1.0000 Volume properties: Displaced volume : 9.345 [ft3] Displacement : 0.267 [tons] 600 lbs in salt Total length of submerged body : 16.127 [ft] Total beam of submerged body : 8.713 [ft] Block coefficient : 0.1773 Prismatic coefficient : 0.7218 Vert. prismatic coefficient : 0.7001 Wetted surface area : 44.177 [ft2] Longitudinal center of buoyancy : 6.492 [ft] Longitudinal center of buoyancy : -12.072 [%] Vertical center of buoyancy : 0.226 [ft] Midship properties: Midship section area : 0.803 [ft2] Midship coefficient : 0.2457 Waterplane properties: Length on waterline : 16.127 [ft] Beam on waterline : 8.713 [ft] Waterplane area : 35.594 [ft2] Waterplane coefficient : 0.2533 Waterplane center of floatation : 6.419 [ft] Entrance angle : 11.864 [degr.] Transverse moment of inertia : 56.721 [ft4] Longitudinal moment of inertia : -1423.5 [ft4] Initial stability: Transverse metacentric height : 6.296 [ft] Longitudinal metacentric height : -152.10 [ft] Lateral plane: Lateral area : 4.095 [ft2] Longitudinal center of effort : 7.782 [ft] Vertical center of effort : 0.224 [ft]
  16. If you don't already have a square transom...how is it attached? You might need to put a tiller extension and move forward to put more of the hull in the water.
  17. http://cpyoa.geekworkshosting.com/forum/index.php?topic=3154.0 http://pdracer.com/articles/roller/index.htm http://faculty.augie.edu/~swart/CP-16/Roller%20Furler.html http://cpyoa.geekworkshosting.com/forum/index.php?topic=3154.30 http://www.widgetsailor.com/myboat/downhaul/ Video with email address for info/plans: http://video.najoomi.com/videos/D9vPW6MAt4k/Homemade-Jib-Furler-for-a-Small-Sailboat.html
  18. I think if I am going to solo I will get longer cables and put the battery up by the bulkhead, which should bring the bow down quite a bit. Trim in such a small boat is a matter of balancing just where to put the heavy stuff vs where the heavy stuff needs to be to be useful. A nice mushroom anchor in the front well will help too. I need to put a handle across the bow about 6" back from the stem to give me something to grab onto to haul it out of the water, and maybe a coupe of handles on the transom for a 2 man carry. Needs an eye for a painter too, and a couple of oarlocks.
  19. And one last. Tried the dog in there...cowering mutt just lay like a big pudding. (and to head this one off..."maybe she knew more than me"...) Carving a corner...those runners work real well at limiting side slip The front seat was always intended to be a Cooler...which when filled with ice and sundries...and someone on top... will trim it out quite well. In case anyone is wondering ...I was in about 2-4 ft of water with a PFD in the boat and a throw cushion too...plus I used to swim competitively and there were folks on the bank.
  20. Splashed: Makes my butt look big ...Actually...considering there is 190lbs(ish) of me, 40-50 lbs of trolling motor battery, and 30 lbs of trolling motor all in the last 3.5 ft of the boat... she don't trim too bad at a full bore of about 4.5-5 mph. The boat carries well...with the big cross piece on the shoulders and the smaller one as a hand hold it tilts up just right to see forward properly...much like a canoe. It was harder trudging up the hill to the parking lot with the motor and battery than with the boat.
  21. Well...its done...mostly. I still have to permanently mount the motor pads, finish painting the corners by the knees and maybe cap off that front compartment... but for the most part it's done. Might splash it tomorrow to see how things go and I think I'll take a friend of mine fishing Monday. He's handicapped (has emphysema very bad...can barely breath) and can no longer use his Bass Buddy very easily as he can't usually get it up and down the bank. I might cover those paint oops on the inside bottom...but probably not. They'll get done when the boat gets a redo. One thing I learned (too late) is that if you are going to do the inside floor a different color than the sides...either go up the sides by an half inch to an inch and tape a nice line or do the same to the bottom. It is way to hard to try and cut in right at the joint...especially if there are caulking goobers right there too. Next paint job goes up the sides by an inch! Oh...and that 1x brace...needed to go about 1 inch higher...just to be able to paint in there without brushing against the bottom. I'll have to the tape bottom next time just to be safe. The light wasn't right for this one so I'll try and get a better shot later in the day...before I go to work this evening. Oh...and as for putting a more powerful motor on it...that would require a transom knee from the bottom of the pad to the floor...best done with a 2x. I would probably put 2 half inch ply doublers across the top of the transom too...instead of the pads.
  22. Pure frustration!!!!...I was putting on the second coat on the bottom and knocked the can of paint over...spilled a cup and a half or so. Just enough so I couldn't finish the bottom. Oh...well says I...I needed to have some touch-up stuff anyways so I got another (third) can of paint. Since then it has been raining, misting, hugely humid or otherwise not conducive to painting. I wanted to splash it this weekend...but instead it sits on the table waiting for the finish of the bottom and a second coat inside to be done while upside down. That is so any drips and splashed don't land on the sole and I can get at all the stuff that is up and under when the boat is upright. Of course...the weekend is supposed to be gorgeous but I'll have to use it to paint instead of trying the boat out. Hopefully Monday I'll be able to get it into the water. I still have to generate an HIN and print up a certificate of origin...if I can remember which computer has the template... I haven't made one in a few years. I'll be unable to put it on any state lakes where DNR lurks until I get it's numbers on it. I'll post pics of the finished boat and when it gets wet...
  23. Marine epoxy doesn't have UV protection...it really isn't formulated for that.
  24. Hmmm...don't think I'll get that second coat on today. Quite humid and there is a good chance of rain. The first coat is still tender...but it was fairly cool last night. Perhaps today as it warms up it will harden up a bit more. I might be able to get it on this evening but I won't hold my breath. What I might do is get a coat done on the inside if it doesn't rain.
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