Nick C

There is a great story in Small Boats Monthly this month about a cruise on the Columbia River by a Core Sound 20 and an Arctic Tern. Lots of photos and an adventure that I enjoyed vicariously. Great to see Samni's boat featured (CS20 Wren) -- hope to hear more! Small Boats Monthly is a digital magazine. I am not sure about access to articles for non-subscribers, but here is the link: https://smallboatsmonthly.com/article/a-quiet-time-in-a-big-estuary/

It started life as a flying scot but has been changed greatly. O.H. Rodgers design. Thanks, Foghorn. The photo Reacher posted looks nothing like a Flying Scot, even the Frankenscot which appeared in 2014, so I was curious and did a little internet searching. Twobeers and O.H. Rodgers designed and built a 22-foot sloop known as the Spawn of Frankenscot. So it is a new hull hence the major new look. From a blog post by Amy Smith Linton: "A 22-foot long sloop, with a sliding rowing seat and a centerboard, Spawn's chockablock with upcycled parts: a used Melges-20 carbon-fiber mast, twin rudders from a Hobie 16, a narwhale-like bowsprit fabricated from a Captiva mast, Frankenscot's old shaped centerboard, a massive carbon-fiber boom constructed from an A-cat mast that met with an unfortunate accident, big wide hiking racks made of aluminum tubing, borrowed oars." And water ballast, high tech sails, etc. Sheesh, I thought some of us did boat tinkering. And they are competing in Class 4, right?

Congratulations Taylor and Alan!

What kind of monohull is being sailed by Twobeers & Moresailsed? They are sustaining high speed!

Thanks Alan. I agree this will be very useful. I looked at many of the links to threads you have included so far and got much good info - this way will speed the search through the build logs.

What Amos said! There are many of us working in windowless garages with the doors shut that are envious of your workspace with a view and wood heat. Looks like you might even be able to raise the mast in there.

Peter, that is a very good looking boat made from "left over bits"! Does the leeboard just hook over the gunwale? Also, will you post a few more photos to help me steal some of your ideas? ?

Ha! Who knew there were so many choices? Looks like an opportunity for an event at the next messabout.

Here ya go, Pete. You already have a drill, right? (Get ready to snicker...!) https://www.amazon.com/Drill-Paddle-Outdoors-Pontoons-Watercraft/dp/B00KSWZZAA/ref=sr_1_29?dchild=1&keywords=canoe+sail+kit&qid=1607013964&sr=8-29

I'm with you, Steve! I have a Moccasin 14 on order and my plan is to have extended decks and bulkheads instead of thwarts to end up with tanks. Looking somewhat like the B&B Birder, but with the CNC assist in cutting out parts. I have always been leery of sailing in a canoe but the video you included is really interesting, so now I am thinking about it. I had not come across Ray Goodwin on YouTube before and his demos are excellent. I have been thinking about one of those kite-like sails for dead downwind (<$30 on Amazon) but Ray makes it look easy to reach with his rig. Do you know if he made his sail or is that a commercial product? Low aspect, flexible mast, easy to rig. I might be reluctant to cleat anything though. Please keep posting with your research. I will start a new topic on my project when I get underway.

Looks great! Your photo album is very well done and will help other builders.

My experience was very similar to Mark’s and like he said it was a little scary, at least the first time. But I realized I had very secure rigging and the boat is pretty tough so working with it on its side turned out well (with old towels on the floor for padding and well chocked). I don’t have as much headroom as appears in the photos but I have a chain hoist so no problem with lift capacity on one end and I borrowed my neighbor’s shop crane for the other. And that’s the reason for this reply: I am now a real believer in the flexibility of using a crane. I rigged it at the bow eye with a webbing sling to prevent gouges from chain and I could lift, lower, and move side to side with little effort and under the tracks of my 7-foot garage door. So Todd, this is a testimonial for a crane if you are constrained for head space. Maybe a neighbor has one and you can just roll it down the street like I did.

Looking good! You should check out Alan’s video about flipping his boat single handed. I wanted to note that your shop photo of your boat is the only one I have seen in this forum with a vintage airplane in the background!

Looking sleek! What weight cloth are you using?

Elegantly simple solution Dave. Also it packs up small when not in use. I made a light bar as part of my mast carrier. Connects to the trailer harness at about the axle, but I have made them with wire running to the connector at the hitch. Goes in the truck when not in use.

I think you guys are on to something. If you can figure out how to blow in to make to intake air more dense you would have a lung-powered turbo. More power for those small displacement engines.

Sewing projects: I made long bags for rolling the sails, sheet bags mounted in the boat to control line tangles, and a full cover. The last was in response to my boat turning yellow during pollen season. I upgraded from a mast carrier on the transom to a light bar. I have done this on a couple of other boats back when light bulbs on trailers failed after submersion, when connections would fail, and when my dog de-wired a trailer. Maybe not needed with LEDs but it is bright and very visible.

Thanks for posting those pics Alan. They show the boat is almost done ... but a boat is never really done, right? I have worked on a few minor projects since the launch and have a few reports on my modifications. First, the below-deck rigging all works well except the main halyard has more friction than desired. I will work on that, and I am planning to put staysail rigging on the deck. Next, here is an example of design in progress. I was working on a furniture project last winter and made a hatch latch out of scrap pieces. Looked crafty and worked fine. But it looks like a cleat right? And sure enough ... (demo of result in photo happened at inopportune moment while sailing). So I added a couple of ramps to shed the line. But I don't really like this so a new version will come along someday.

I added a couple of pics of Amos to the album. Those were the best two -- one-handed composition often doesn't work! He was very well balanced with a tiller tamer (I need to get one) and could take pics with two hands. I need to make a longer main sprit or finagle my rigging to be able to trim out that crease. Otherwise everything works!

I got the little heater as an alternative to a light bulb setup with some means to circulate air since my designs were becoming weirdly complicated. I added on the little box on the side as a "plenum" with baffles and fiddled with it to make air flow around the jugs. This is the heater I got: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XDTWN2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I had the idea that the heater thermostat might be adequate but it wasn't so once again I went to the source of all things and got this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011296704/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Overkill for this task but I can think of multiple subsequent uses (like if I take up home brewing, or get a lizard). It controlled the heating pad and would work for a larger heater also up to 1500W.

I am dealing with a well-crystallized jug and non-pumping pumps now. I am the guy that kept mine on a heating pad at >60 this winter but it still solidified. Not allowed (why even ask?) to use the microwave so I will do the water bath approach - it has worked for me before. Here are some pics of my heat box setup. Made of ply scraps and during the build winter before last I used a very small forced air heater and a controller. The sensor was taped about midway on the jug contents and it worked well circulating warm air around the jugs; I set it at 80 in the morning and it got the epoxy to >75 to work with, and I kept it at 65-70 the rest of the time. Last winter I took out the little heater and put the jugs on a heating pad in a plastic bag and set the controller to 62. There must be brand differences in chemistry that affect crystallizing, based on empirical observations. In general my experience is like Paul's but I have some old 2:1 resin (not B&B) that wasn't in the heat box this winter and it flows fine.

Looks great, Todd!

Nice installation. I went a different route, but in hindsight may have selected this one. A question: I assume you can just pull it out when in the water to deploy it, but how do you retrieve it when back in the boat?

I can vouch for the gunwale guard; great stuff, but was a mildew battle for me. Fenders like the ones in Paul's link are also great. My pram has a simple 1" rope along the gunwale. Glued into a moulding along the sides and bow (partly visible in one of the pics. I think it looks pretty good, it is tough, and cheap.

Fellow builders or builders-to-be: The building base I used to build my Core Sound 20 is disassembled and stacked in my storage unit, and before I re-purpose or scrap the parts I thought I would see if someone nearby could make use of it. I am in Washington, NC, so if you are within a reasonable distance, or if you will be traveling to B&B to pick up a kit, I would be pleased to give it to you to support a fellow builder. My boat is a CS20 Mk1 so the base could be cut down and/or modified for other boats that length or shorter. It is 2x8 and 2x6 SPF lumber. The photos show it in use in the early stages, but like most folks I don't have any views of the base itself. I am keeping the casters for another project. Nick C. Core Sound 20 Mk1 Blue Duck Washington, NC